Freerails Home 
Home Search search Menu menu Not logged in - Login | Register
Freerails > Model Railroad Forums > Technical > Wagon wheelbase O scale

Because of non-railroad abuse of the site, new members MUST use their first names (at least) to join NO EXCEPTIONS!

Wagon wheelbase O scale
 Moderated by: oztrainz Page:    1  2  3  4  5  Next Page Last Page  
New Topic Reply Printer Friendly
 Rate Topic 
AuthorPost
 Posted: Sat Sep 9th, 2017 02:18 pm
  PMQuoteReply
1st Post
George Ruthven
Registered


Joined: Wed Jun 28th, 2017
Location: Cape Town, South Africa
Posts: 45
Status: 
Offline
Hi,
I'am wondering what the max wheelbase could be for single wheels under an O scale wagon. The curves are one metre diameter.
I want to build a few with 10 wheel sets and couplings I got from a friend. It'll have to carry a 2S Lipo batt, an ESC and receiver (on top I suppose) with sides and a lid - all from about 2 or 3mm plywood. And the axle bearings will be the grubscrews as so brilliantly proposed (could be by Si??) on this forum. 
Many thks,
George



____________________
George,
Cape Town
Back To Top

 Posted: Sat Sep 9th, 2017 02:40 pm
  PMQuoteReply
2nd Post
Si.
Super Moderator


Joined: Thu Feb 23rd, 2012
Location: London
Posts: 3781
Status: 
Offline
Hi George :wave:



My take on the maximum wheelbase would be ...

... whatever looks 'right' with your locos & other wagons.



The only thing I really worry about with longish 4-wheelers ...

... is possible 'overhang' at the ends, making the couplers potentially 'swing out' too much.

Keeping the wheelsets as close to the ends of the wagon as looks 'reasonable' is the answer to that one.

Depends a bit of course, on what couplers you're using as well.



Here's my 'cup-ended set-screw' method on an old 'Tri-ang' diescast HO underframe.

16.5mm gauge in this case & the screws are M3x3mm.














Sounds like FUN on the scratchbuild George !


I'm  s  l  o  w  l  e  y  doing a tender for my 1:35n2 Bachmann Porter 'upscale' ...

... I think for an R.C. setups, batteries, receiver & E.S.C. to go in.











R.C. can be 'affordable' even for bigger motors, my E.S.C only cost £2.54p inc. P&P ...

... & the 'FlySky' transmitter & receiver twin-pack, only cost me £16.00 inc. P&P.



Looks like it's going well there George, with your AC/DC motor stuff sorted as well. :thumb:



:)



Si.



____________________

' Mysterious Moose Mountain ' - 1:35n2 - pt.II
http://www.freerails.com/view_topic.php?id=7318&forum_id=17&page=1

' M:R:W Motor Speedway !!! ' - 1:32 Slotcar Racing Layout
http://www.slotforum.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=59295&st=0&a
Back To Top

 Posted: Sat Sep 9th, 2017 02:58 pm
  PMQuoteReply
3rd Post
George Ruthven
Registered


Joined: Wed Jun 28th, 2017
Location: Cape Town, South Africa
Posts: 45
Status: 
Offline
Thks Si.
Yes going well except I'am waiting for my 3 Lipo's from China. Ordered in June and July and if you're up to date with South Africa then you'll know it's become normal. ALL gov systems falling apart. Fingers crossed it may arrive in Sept. In the meantime I have to keep the grandson enthusiastic by building things;). A friend cast some plastic Lima/Rivarossi couplings and after some experimentation even added a wire for strength. I find the couplings rather finicky (with the last run we had around the lounge (borrowed batteries) they often uncouple which is irritating) and may still sit down and consider something unconventional such as the tie bars on one's car. I see the guys using them on their RC buggys.

Only because in retirement there's the time to reconsider the workings of the world.

Last edited on Sat Sep 9th, 2017 02:59 pm by George Ruthven



____________________
George,
Cape Town
Back To Top

 Posted: Sat Sep 9th, 2017 03:04 pm
  PMQuoteReply
4th Post
W C Greene
Super Moderator


Joined: Fri May 4th, 2007
Location: Royse City, Texas USA
Posts: 7560
Status: 
Offline
George, if you can handle them, link & pin couplers work all the time with no uncoupling (unless something breaks!). Then there's the old time method, cast "dummy" knuckle couplers. They hold together OK. I prefer the l&p's since the railroads I love and model tended to use them until the end.

Woodie



____________________
It doesn't matter if you win or lose, its' how you rig the game.
Back To Top

 Posted: Sat Sep 9th, 2017 03:21 pm
  PMQuoteReply
5th Post
George Ruthven
Registered


Joined: Wed Jun 28th, 2017
Location: Cape Town, South Africa
Posts: 45
Status: 
Offline
Thks Woodie but can I get that in English pse:shocked:?
Such a noobie.
I can Google them?
Or maybe you have pics?
L&p sounds like my kind of thing thks.
I worked 35yrs in metal manufacturing and promised myself after retirement I'll work in wood (was fortunate to do woodworking at school 1961 HA!).
So can I do any of this in wood maybe?



____________________
George,
Cape Town
Back To Top

 Posted: Sat Sep 9th, 2017 03:31 pm
  PMQuoteReply
6th Post
pipopak
Moderator


Joined: Wed Apr 13th, 2011
Location: Florida USA
Posts: 1743
Status: 
Offline
About the couplers if the rolling stock are roughly the same length you should have no problems.Jose



____________________
Junk is something you throw away three weeks before you need it.
Back To Top

 Posted: Sat Sep 9th, 2017 03:43 pm
  PMQuoteReply
7th Post
George Ruthven
Registered


Joined: Wed Jun 28th, 2017
Location: Cape Town, South Africa
Posts: 45
Status: 
Offline
Ok, found lots of images on Google.
Am going to try some in wood.

Attachment: Link&Pin.jpg (Downloaded 49 times)



____________________
George,
Cape Town
Back To Top

 Posted: Sat Sep 9th, 2017 06:11 pm
  PMQuoteReply
8th Post
George Ruthven
Registered


Joined: Wed Jun 28th, 2017
Location: Cape Town, South Africa
Posts: 45
Status: 
Offline
How about a single axle bogie or is that not acceptable?
That would enable me to have a long wheelbase?

I cannot seem to copy it into jpeg or directly here but it appears in images on Google. It's a BP wagon.

Last edited on Sat Sep 9th, 2017 06:17 pm by George Ruthven



____________________
George,
Cape Town
Back To Top

 Posted: Sat Sep 9th, 2017 11:47 pm
  PMQuoteReply
9th Post
Kitbash0n30
Registered


Joined: Mon Dec 10th, 2012
Location: Boonville, Missouri USA
Posts: 579
Status: 
Offline
I do not see it mentioned directly - the big issue with long wheelbase two-axle cars is flange binding, flange friction, and flange/railhead wear on curves.

Single-axle bogies can work, I believe LGB uses some on their gauge one rolling stock.

The question is what manner of mechanism to employ to keep the axle more or less square to the rails.
That, you are on your own to figure out.

As always, the best answer is to conduct practical tests of different wheelbase lengths on the track on which the cars will be running.



____________________
See y'all later, Forrest.
Screw the rivets, I'm building for atmosphere
Back To Top

 Posted: Sun Sep 10th, 2017 05:25 am
  PMQuoteReply
10th Post
George Ruthven
Registered


Joined: Wed Jun 28th, 2017
Location: Cape Town, South Africa
Posts: 45
Status: 
Offline
Thks yes I'am sort of developing (in my head) a length of plank (say 300mm) with a fixed axle at one end and an adjustable one at the other end. I'll start at the extremes and then bring the adjustable axle inwards (shortening the wheelbase) untill it runs smoothly.
I'll put a pic up next week sometime.
Maybe even a single axle bogie as well.



____________________
George,
Cape Town
Back To Top


 Current time is 05:54 am
Page:    1  2  3  4  5  Next Page Last Page  

Freerails > Model Railroad Forums > Technical > Wagon wheelbase O scale
Top



UltraBB 1.172 Copyright © 2007-2016 Data 1 Systems