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Weathering projects from O to N
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 Posted: Mon Sep 25th, 2017 07:09 pm
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Daniel Beresford
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Hi everyone,
I'm not sure if this part of the forum is for anything other than how-to's and tips on weathering, or if it's where we can post our own weathered models for feedback, but in the hope it's for the latter as well, here's a few weathering projects I've been working on.
First up is a work in progress of an O scale boxcar - the first O scale weathering project I've embarked upon, so feedback and criticisms would be very well received!
Note - seal every layer of work with Dullcote. All paint is acrylic unless otherwise stated.
Firstly, I took the base model - a Weaver kit:

After assembling the kit, I faded it down using a slightly lighter shade of green to the usual "Century" green the NYC used, using a very watery wash. Using a different brush, the excess is "lifted" from the model by placing the brush in the excess water and letting the bristles absorb the excess:

Once dry, the model is sealed with Dullcote, and a few more coats of the wash are added until the desired fade is achieved - sealing each layer with Dullcote to avoid spoiling the work already done:

Next, a watered down wash of brown paint is applied in the same manner as the fading wash, but only along places where dirt, grime and rust would gather. Once dry, this is also sealed with dullcote:

Next, black, brown, orange and white pastels are used to blend the whole thing together - black and dark browns in the areas grime would build up, browns and oranges where rust would gather, and white to tone down the whole car and blend the washes and dirt into an overall fade across the car. Again, this is built up in layers, each layer sealed with Dullcote:

After this is complete, rust dings and scratches are applied to the car using dark brown paint. Always use prototype photographs as references for the whole process, but especially for this part:

Next, used burnt sienna oil paints to halo the rust patches, dings and scratches, both to give a look of newer rust and to add texture to the rust. You can add orange pastel powder to the wet oil paint at this stage to add in further texture if you choose, but on this one I did not. Once the oil paint is fully dried, another coat of Dullcote is required.

This is as far as I've gotten with it so far. Here's a daylight shot to show off the overall effect:


I'll add further updates to the car as well as further projects in other scales in here as and when I can. :)



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 Posted: Mon Sep 25th, 2017 08:37 pm
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Si.
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Totally AWESOME ! Dan. :shocked:



:moose::moose::moose::moose::moose:



Si.



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 Posted: Tue Sep 26th, 2017 03:06 am
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Daniel Beresford
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Cheers Si,

O scale is definitely easier to weather in than N! :D



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 Posted: Tue Sep 26th, 2017 08:51 am
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slateworks
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Exceptional Dan. I'd love to achieve this type of effect but so far haven't had the patience!



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 Posted: Sat Sep 30th, 2017 06:00 am
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Daniel Beresford
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Thanks Doug,

It's not too difficult to be honest, but yes it's time consuming.

In O scale, I can manage one side of a car in a single evening's session, though in N scale I can manage a whole car or two in the same time.



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 Posted: Tue Oct 10th, 2017 04:23 am
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Daniel Beresford
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Sorry for the lack of updates, it takes a while to weather large models!

The NYC boxcar is mostly done now. Still needs the underframe and trucks weathering but I'm waiting on a delivery of Pan Pastels before I tackle those.









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 Posted: Tue Oct 10th, 2017 04:42 am
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Daniel Beresford
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So... I actually got some progress made on the Southern gondola that I got from a recent trip to York. It's an Atlas Trainman 2-rail O scale car.

So far it's had a real wood deck added to the interior - made from coffee stirrers, naturally - as well as a brown acrylic fading wash, and a wash of black watercolour to dirty it up. The great thing with watercolours is that if you don't like how it looks, take a wet paintbrush to it and just wash it off! :D

After this was done, I went over the lettering and car number with a damp microbrush to remove the paint from the white and let it really pop again, as most of the time the lettering isn't too dirty in prototype photos.






















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 Posted: Tue Oct 10th, 2017 11:28 am
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Si.
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:moose: :moose: :moose: :moose: :moose: tastic !



:)



Si.



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http://www.slotforum.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=59295&st=0&a
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 Posted: Tue Oct 10th, 2017 02:54 pm
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Herb Kephart
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Good work. The only thought that I have is that wheels and couplers are prohibited from being painted, so that cracks are more noticeable. They are solid rust color.

Surprised that so many coats, however thin don't start to cloud the work. But they don't seem to.


Herb



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 Posted: Tue Oct 10th, 2017 03:29 pm
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Lee B
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:moose: :moose: :moose: :moose:
Great work!



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