Freerails Home 
Home Search search Menu menu Not logged in - Login | Register

Freerails IS ACCEPTING new Members ... To join Freerails ... See how to Register as a Member in the 'Joining Freerails' Forum

Batteries For HO Scale GP9 ?
 Moderated by: W C Greene Page:    1  2  3  Next Page Last Page  
New Topic Reply Printer Friendly
 Rating:  Rating
AuthorPost
 Posted: Mon Oct 30th, 2017 04:05 pm
  PMQuoteReply
1st Post
Geoff L
Registered
 

Joined: Tue Nov 4th, 2014
Location: Hemel Hempstead, United Kingdom
Posts: 44
Status: 
Offline
Hi

Does anyone have experience of finding a suitable battery and fitting into an Atlas HO GP9 or similar narrow bodied locomotive?

Geoff

Back To Top

 Posted: Mon Oct 30th, 2017 06:10 pm
  PMQuoteReply
2nd Post
W C Greene
Moderator


Joined: Fri May 4th, 2007
Location: Royse City, Texas USA
Posts: 7760
Status: 
Offline
Howdy Geoff, my ops buddy has a pair of Athearn GP9's which are r/c'ed. He has the units coupled together (mu'ed) one has the board & battery (3 cell 1800 MAH Li Po) inside the dummy unit and power to the powered unit is just 2 wires. It depends upon which system you use (he uses a KYOSHO r/c car board) the equipment pretty much takes up the space in the dummy. The tractive effort is pretty much the same as it would be using a dummy GP9 hauling a train of 12-15 cars. I suppose that an Atlas unit would offer the same space inside the hood.
I hope this helps.

Woodie



____________________
It doesn't matter if you win or lose, its' how you rig the game.
Back To Top

 Posted: Mon Oct 30th, 2017 07:42 pm
  PMQuoteReply
3rd Post
jtrain
Registered


Joined: Sun May 27th, 2012
Location: Missoula, Montana USA
Posts: 1003
Status: 
Offline
Unfortunately I don't have an Atlas GP9 to confirm anything but generally, Woodie's answer is the easiest with the best results.

Finding a dummy unit (not too expensive) and putting the battery in the unit is the best way to go.  Plus, if you have multiple dummy units, you could swap them out as the battery levels deplete in each one.  This greatly lengthens your run time.

Here's a link to that set-up:

http://smallmr.com/wordpress/battery-and-wireless-control-for-ho-scale/

--James W.

Last edited on Mon Oct 30th, 2017 07:44 pm by jtrain



____________________
James W.

New Blog (permanent this time)

blackhillsrr.blogspot.com
Back To Top

 Posted: Tue Oct 31st, 2017 01:02 am
  PMQuoteReply
4th Post
dan3192
Registered
 

Joined: Thu Oct 14th, 2010
Location: Connecticut USA
Posts: 191
Status: 
Offline
Hello Geoff,

This is the power chassis for my Athearn GP35, about the same size as the GP9. It's has a Hobbytown frame, trucks and gear tower and I'm using a 12v can motor with Athearn or A-Line flywheel. 

Upstream is a Panasonic 18650 3,400mAh Li-ion battery, Radio Shack SPST on-off switch, 5v DC-DC voltage regulator, and DelTang Rx61-2 Rx/ESC. Works very well and running it now about 2+ years. 

The China-made voltage regulator will be replaced with a Pololu 9v regulator. Fiber optic lighting and induction charging will be added to complete the model. The model is shown in the next post...can't seem to load two photos on the same post!

Dan     

Last edited on Tue Oct 31st, 2017 01:34 am by dan3192

Back To Top

 Posted: Tue Oct 31st, 2017 01:07 am
  PMQuoteReply
5th Post
dan3192
Registered
 

Joined: Thu Oct 14th, 2010
Location: Connecticut USA
Posts: 191
Status: 
Offline
This is the GP35 with Athearn shell on the Hobbytown chassis. It's a little further along than shown here.
Dan

Back To Top

 Posted: Thu Nov 2nd, 2017 01:00 am
  PMQuoteReply
6th Post
Geoff L
Registered
 

Joined: Tue Nov 4th, 2014
Location: Hemel Hempstead, United Kingdom
Posts: 44
Status: 
Offline
Thank you for the responses.

Woody and James, I had considered an attached caboose but am looking for reduced train length  for use on a very small layout.

Dan, I certainly like what you have done. I am using Deltang and had hoped for a similar set up by removing the drive to one truck, however, this seems to be used to keep the truck in place! With the metal chassis major surgery would be necessary to alter this and the truck.

I was looking for a 2s lipo battery but am finding it difficult to source by size rather than capacity. In the alternative, the idea of switching cabooses has its attractions.

Geoff

Back To Top

 Posted: Thu Nov 2nd, 2017 01:33 am
  PMQuoteReply
7th Post
Rod Hutchinson
Registered


Joined: Fri May 8th, 2009
Location: Mooroolbark, Australia
Posts: 368
Status: 
Offline
Geoff, if battery size is a problem you could consider a Pololu voltage step up converter.  If you get the voltage up to 9v it should turn OEM motors.
I have had success with HOn30 open frame motors.

Last edited on Thu Nov 2nd, 2017 01:34 am by Rod Hutchinson



____________________
Rod Hutchinson
Mooroolbark, Australia
Back To Top

 Posted: Thu Nov 2nd, 2017 06:36 am
  PMQuoteReply
8th Post
dan3192
Registered
 

Joined: Thu Oct 14th, 2010
Location: Connecticut USA
Posts: 191
Status: 
Offline
Geoff, you might want to check out the 18500 size Li-ion battery (3.7V, 2,000mAh). Two of these might fit, one mounted on the chassis cross-member that rests on the rear truck and the other near the middle of the chassis behind a motor that drives the front truck. I believe there are 18350's available, but don't know the battery capacity. 

There should be enough space above the motor and/or forward battery to mount a Rx/ESC, maybe also room to step-up the voltage. With Hobbytown's drive arrangement, I have this type of room, but with Athearn, and especially Atlas, there may be no room at all.  Might be worth a try, but suggest you lay it out on paper first.

Dan 

Last edited on Thu Nov 2nd, 2017 07:30 am by dan3192

Back To Top

 Posted: Thu Nov 2nd, 2017 07:24 am
  PMQuoteReply
9th Post
jtrain
Registered


Joined: Sun May 27th, 2012
Location: Missoula, Montana USA
Posts: 1003
Status: 
Offline
If the engine is just meant for a slow speed, switching layout, then the battery requirements aren't as difficult to meet.  All you'd really need is enough juice to do an operating session, whatever length you normally run.

Good luck with your project!

--James



____________________
James W.

New Blog (permanent this time)

blackhillsrr.blogspot.com
Back To Top

 Posted: Thu Nov 2nd, 2017 11:55 am
  PMQuoteReply
10th Post
davecttr
Registered
 

Joined: Sat Nov 9th, 2013
Location: United Kingdom
Posts: 368
Status: 
Offline
jtrain wrote: If the engine is just meant for a slow speed, switching layout, then the battery requirements aren't as difficult to meet.  All you'd really need is enough juice to do an operating session, whatever length you normally run.

Good luck with your project!

--James
I found the battery requirements were a lot less than I thought I would need. A typical operating session lasts about 2 hours and involves 12 to 16 locos. An individual loco does no more than 15-20 minutes work so no need for many hours of battery capacity. Most of my locos use 'UM' E-flite style batteries which I remove to charge. A large passenger loco pulling a 12 coach train at a scale 60mph draws about 400mA. A pair of 200mAh batteries will power that loco for about 50 minutes, plenty for my requirements
My diesel locos can also use 4xAAA size NiMh cells which give the equivalent of 1000mAh



____________________
Dave
Back To Top


 Current time is 12:28 am
Page:    1  2  3  Next Page Last Page  

Top



UltraBB 1.172 Copyright © 2007-2016 Data 1 Systems