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Purchased A 'FlySky' FS-GT2E - Transmitter & Receiver
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 Posted: Sun Dec 3rd, 2017 04:51 am
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Bernd
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Helmut wrote: @Bernd

The resistors are 3900(3k9) & 2200(2k2) Ohms 1%.
You can also use just a 5100(5k1) Ohms 1% in place of the 2k2 and leave the 3k9 out.
All this is true only when the pot is 5000 (5k) Ohms! If in doubt, check with a multimeter.


That's what I thought. Just wanted to check to be sure I was right. Thank you.
I did check the pots and they are 5K ohm. Also states they are 5k on the back side.

Bernd



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A REALIST sees a freight train
The LOCOMOTIVE ENGINEER sees three idiots standing on the tracks
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 Posted: Sun Dec 3rd, 2017 07:43 am
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Nortonville Phil
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Bernd wrote: 
Phil is using a 10amp versus my 30amp. Could that be the difference.  Or is it the frequency of the ESC?
Also need to question whether Phil hooked a motor to his ESC. Lacking a bit of info there.
I'm sure Si will fill the space with useless chatter before we get some semblance of an answer, if we get one at all.

Either way I'm done with that junk equipment.

Bernd

Guys,

I have not put my equipment in a loco yet.
I have only tested it with a 24 volt Pitman gear head motor.
It may not have great control modulation. 

But like you say Bernd a good experiment.






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 Posted: Mon Dec 4th, 2017 01:52 am
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Helmut
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Hi all,

here's a quick and dirty solution for doubling the control swing and having a positive zero position where one can throw the direction switch.
In the FlySky, there will be an elegant way to that with less components,
the sketch here shows how to do it in the not-so-sophisticated TX's where there is no channel inversion provided.





The colour of the center conductor may differ, but red and black are IMHO standard.




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 Posted: Tue Dec 5th, 2017 03:53 pm
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Helmut
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The FlySky TX has  adjustments for trim and slide-switches to invert the channel signal,
i. e. throttle pulled in 'norm' is 100% FW, in 'rev' its 100% REV.
They sit under a cover and yes, it looks different from mine. But they are labeled.
We use that possibility to wire the direction switch with less circuitry.
In 'norm' position, an imput of the control processor is pulled to ground, whereas in 'rev' it is left open.
So one just has to solder two wires to the 'ST' switch and run them to the new direction switch in the housing.
The 'ST' switch is left in 'rev' position, so that the input is controlled by the direction switch now.
What it does is that in 'FW' you run up from 1.5 to ~2msec, and from 1.5 to ~1msec in 'REV', all with the 'ST' input seeing 2.5 to 5V.
First, one has to provide a direction switch.
I chose a slide-switch, because it can be mounted the easy way when one has two halves of a case.





Admittedly not the best photo I've made, but the principle can be seen.








Once that is in place and the two halves fit together,
one just needs to run two wires from the 'ST' switch to the contacts that are closed in the 'FW' ( right hand side for me ) position.





Now you can look for some decent blackened cylinder-head screws to fasten your direction switch once the halves are joined.








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 Posted: Tue Dec 5th, 2017 08:36 pm
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Helmut
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Now if you have put back the 'ST' pot, and the battery case, you can start with the first trials.
Even with that car ESC, you should be able to experience a finer control range as before.
Oh, lest I forget - the ESC has to be put in Ch#2 now IIRC.




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 Posted: Wed Dec 6th, 2017 01:18 am
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Bernd
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Ok, I'll give that a try, next time I get enthused about doing some electronics work.


Thanks for the SBS.
Very helpful.


Bernd




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A PESSIMIST sees a dark tunnel
An OPTIMIST sees light at the end of the tunnel
A REALIST sees a freight train
The LOCOMOTIVE ENGINEER sees three idiots standing on the tracks
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 Posted: Wed Dec 6th, 2017 04:16 pm
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Helmut
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Remember I've set aside that 'TH' pot?.
It will be discarded and there will be pushbuttons to control some 4 functions instead.
First I'll show the schematics, the real thing will follow.





This arrangement will render 5 different voltages: neutral - 2.5V, f1 - 5V, f2 - 3.4V, f3 - 1.6V, f4 - 0.4V.
Here it shows what the built-in conversion made of it for my TX:





The neutral pulse of 1.5msec is not shown.
The idea is to use these different pulselengths to trigger functions.
One can go for up to 10 such functions in one channel and have them reliably detected.
Of course that's microcontroller business.
What you can get is devices that take the longest (full) and shortest (minimum) channel pulses to switch one or more outputs,
but then you have to repeatedly move your paddle and not lose count for the different functions you want.
I made a 4-channel discriminator with an ATTiny13 and a ULN2803, that is rather small and satisfied my needs so far.




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 Posted: Wed Dec 6th, 2017 06:30 pm
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Bernd
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Wow Helmut you really dug into this.

Thanks for posting all the work you've done.
Going to have to get the RC back out of the box and give it a try.

Bernd



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A PESSIMIST sees a dark tunnel
An OPTIMIST sees light at the end of the tunnel
A REALIST sees a freight train
The LOCOMOTIVE ENGINEER sees three idiots standing on the tracks
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 Posted: Fri Dec 8th, 2017 06:38 pm
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Helmut
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Some more food for thought ...

The schematics of the 4-function module.

And a photo of the prototype ( Didn't bother to make a PCB yet ).



The ULN2803 is a tiny SMD sitting directly on the copper pads underneath.
I used two imputs / outputs in parallel as they fit on the 0.1" spacing then.


Attachment: 5180_081434_470000000.jpg (Downloaded 30 times)



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 Posted: Sun Dec 10th, 2017 01:47 pm
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George Ruthven
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Helmut,

Will you also show the conversion of the remote into one's own box as per your example.

( and what happens to the batteries ? )

George.







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