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Purchased A 'FlySky' FS-GT2E Transmitter & Receiver
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 Posted: Mon Apr 2nd, 2018 09:09 am
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dan3192
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Michael,

Try standing in a different position, like moving further away from the receiver.
How is the Rx. antenna oriented?...horizontal? vertical? a little of each? 

The transmitter antenna should be more vertical than horizontal.
Ideally, both antennas should be vertical to each other.
Can you pivot the Tx. antenna upwards?

BTW, did you say the black wire was the middle wire?
Black is usually an outside wire.
With Rx. as a reference in Post-147, wires should be white, red, black - left to right.
System won't work otherwise.   

Dan  

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 Posted: Mon Apr 2nd, 2018 11:04 am
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davecttr
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You are not near a home hub or LED lighting are you? Both can interfere with your binding attempts.
I have a couple of Rx.s that took lots of attempts to bind successfully but they are OK once bound.
My Rx. and Tx. aerials are all curved, should they be straight?
Should the TX/Rx aerial orientation be parallel to each other or perpendicular?



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 Posted: Mon Apr 2nd, 2018 01:08 pm
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Si.
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" Probably doing something dumb,  but can't figure out what "



Hi Michael :wave:



Yep ... I would say that your self diagnostic procedure, is probably right on track. :P

Perhaps 'THEY' are putting something in the water where you are ?


Sorry to sound like  'Pops' :old dude: ...

... But ...

... Check YOUR BLOODY WIRING !  :f:


;)


Once you've checked it ONCE ... ???

... Then check it a SECOND time ... L:
... Then BEFORE switching on, check it a THIRD time ! :brill:



" E.S.C. plugged into top port "

" white, black, red - left to right "



First of all you had the E.S.C. plugged into the WRONG set of pins on the Receiver.

Then, after swapping it to the CORRECT set of Channel-2 pins ...

... you appear to have muddled-up the 3 wire colours, when you ... " shortened the wires to save room "

Either that, or you've muddled-up Posting the description of the wire colours in the WRONG order !





The FIRST left-hand column of pins 'MARKED S' ... Should have the WHITE wire connected to it.

The SECOND middle column of pins 'MARKED +' ... Should have the RED wire connected to it.

The THIRD right-hand column of pins 'MARKED -' ... Should have the BLACK wire connected to it.



Then connect to the Receivers Channel-2.




Come on Michael ! :old dude:

To people looking in & reading this stuff, you're making it look almost impossibly difficult to get this working easily.



Kids 'Technical LEGO Sets' these days, are about TEN TIMES more difficult to wire up than this 'FlySky' gear.



There's absolutely no point in us all endlessly speculating about antennas, batteries, interference, sunspots, astrological predictions etc. ...

... if the very basic wiring is totally B%££$7$D  !  :f:



Your previous installation worked great first time, without any of these 'silly' problems at all ...

... perhaps 'THEY' had put less Flouride in the water that day ? ;)



( chew out over )



:P



Si.




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 Posted: Mon Apr 2nd, 2018 07:38 pm
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W C Greene
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...Or...get a receiver which has a "built in" ESC. Much less BS than trying to fit several pieces of electrical bits inside the loco, etc.
I know...I know...nobody wants to hear me recommend anything but the KISS principle applies here also.

Woodie-easier is better



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 Posted: Mon Apr 2nd, 2018 08:22 pm
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Si.
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Howdy Woodie :cb:



Sorry to disagree.

But your comment ^^ really isn't at all helpful whatsoever. :us:


I can't see ANY difference, between wiring 1 thing in, or 2 things in. :dope:



The required connections are so basic & simple ...

... if you can't get them right, with a totally clear & simple schematic to refer to ...

... you may as well just give up & get some clockwork trains. ???



The problem here is nothing to do with  " Much less BS "  ...

... the only  " BS "  here is  'Basic Snafu'  !



This 'FlySky' R.C. gear, is so freakin' easy to wire up, that my Granny could do it, whilst knitting in mittens !

What we're talking about here, is quite simply about planning, checking & DOUBLE-CHECKING  !!  :brill:



Saying to people that they should  " get a receiver which has a 'built in' ESC " ...

... is just about as sensible, as telling them to get a Receiver with a 'built in' battery ! :Crazy:



I am a total believer in the KISS principle. :thumb:

In fact, almost EVERYTHING that I ever do, looks straight to this very idea.

Which is exactly why I have no hesitation in endorsing the shear simplicity of this really basic system. :bg:



If you can't get this connected up OK.

You think you'll last long before you set yourself on FIRE ! and blow yourself up with yer batteries ? ;)



:f:



Si.



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' Mysterious Moose Mountain ' - 1:35n2 - pt.II
http://www.freerails.com/view_topic.php?id=7318&forum_id=17&page=1

' M:R:W Motor Speedway !!! ' - 1:32 Slotcar Racing Layout
http://www.slotforum.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=59295&st=0&a
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 Posted: Mon Apr 2nd, 2018 11:24 pm
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Helmut
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As long as you have the space, that bit-by-bit approach makes sense. But you cannot deny that e.g. a DT RX65 with 6A capacity will need much less space. The choice sometimes is either space or money.



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 Posted: Tue Apr 3rd, 2018 01:13 am
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dan3192
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@ Dave

From what I've read, the ideal situation is when both antennas are vertical.
The receiving antenna is less effective when it is rotated say 90 degrees,
and least effective when pointed at the transmitting antenna. 

The experts (Spektrum R/C Div., Horizon Hobby) also advise both antennas should be as straight as possible,
which is sometimes (for me) difficult to arrange. 

Here's a link to an article which talks about r/c and antennas.

https://www.rchelicopterfun.com/rc-antenna.html

Dan    

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 Posted: Tue Apr 3rd, 2018 03:17 am
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davecttr
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Thanks Dan, an interesting article.
None of my aerials are straight but they seem to work OK in my railway room.
Having them straight would mean a redesign of the installation and this might not be possible.



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 Posted: Tue Apr 3rd, 2018 07:17 am
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Si.
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" As long as you have the space, that bit-by-bit approach makes sense "



Hi Helmut :wave:



I'm sorry ... I just Posted this photo of the Receiver, so that the labeling on it was clearly readable.

It isn't really this size ...





... Have a look at the picture ^^ on a cellphone & it should be more or less about right.



:!:



Si.



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' Mysterious Moose Mountain ' - 1:35n2 - pt.II
http://www.freerails.com/view_topic.php?id=7318&forum_id=17&page=1

' M:R:W Motor Speedway !!! ' - 1:32 Slotcar Racing Layout
http://www.slotforum.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=59295&st=0&a
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 Posted: Tue Apr 3rd, 2018 04:13 pm
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Toeffelholm
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Helmut wrote: As long as you have the space, that bit-by-bit approach makes sense. But you cannot deny that e.g. a DT RX65 with 6A capacity will need much less space. The choice sometimes is either space or money.

Yes, and you even don't need an Rx65 for an H0 or 0n30 drive. An Rx60 is sufficient for this.
It may be easier to see that with some dimensions. 
The 3 channel FlySky Rx is, length times width,  35x22mm  and 13 mm in height
An Rx60 measures 22.5 x 11 mm with a height of maybe 5mm.
So you have an Rx and ESC on about the third part of the area of the FlySky Rx.(Surplus the integrated possibility to switch consumers on/off)
Si, I understand and respect your approach to show that one can use RC control for his trains also with a very small budget, and these components you've posted are really cheap. 
But concerning KISS principle I would also claim for me that, for a basic installation, 2 thin wires from a battery via a switch to this tiny Rx and 2 from the Rx to the motor is a far simpler installation, especially if there is small space. 

Juergen




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