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Purchased a 'FlySky' FS-GT2E Transmitter & Receiver
 Moderated by: W C Greene Page:  First Page Previous Page  1  2  3  4  5  6  Next Page Last Page  
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 Posted: Mon Nov 13th, 2017 01:27 am
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Si.
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" I too was inspired by Si's 'FlySky' info "

" I hooked it all up on the bench on Friday and it works great."



Hi Phil :wave:



AWESOME ! :bg:

I'm sure that rig will suit your new garden O-scale line a treat !! :cool:

Certainly can't argue with the price. :thumb:



:)



Si.



Yes, the E.S.C. provides the Receivers 5-Volts, through its 3-wire 0.1" cable-socket connection.

That particular 'small red' E.S.C.s maximum operating Voltage, is said to be 8.4 Volts.

I'm sure 9 Volts or thereabouts is probably OK.



If you happen to have a 9 Volt regulator like I do ...

... you could drop 1/2 a Volt with a appropriate diode if needed.



1 cell LiPo + a 9 Volt step-up regulator will work.

2 cell LiPo giving 7.4 Volts sans regulator will also work.



Good luck on the install Phil. :!:

Sounds  C:cool::cool:L


:)







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 Posted: Mon Nov 13th, 2017 10:03 am
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Helmut
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W C Greene wrote: The system looks OK to me but that "Capt. Kirk" phase pistol needs some fixin'. ... I just got a couple of old analog 27MHZ 2 stick transmitters (just what we wanted).
Hi Woodie,
that's how I modified the sticks a bit to have a reliable 'OFF' position plus two functions ( like lights )

Attachment: 1900Jamara001.jpg (Downloaded 48 times)



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 Posted: Mon Nov 13th, 2017 06:11 pm
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Nortonville Phil
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Hi Si,
I hooked up my 3 cell lipo to my ESC and have tested it.  I realized yesterday that my ESC is supposed to only be for a 2 cell battery.  It still seems to work though.  I don't know if I will burn it up if I continue to mess with it.  I guess I need to get a 2 cell battery.
I have been reading on here about these dc dc converters to step up the power.  I have been searching for info on the forum about these.  But still have questions.  If I use a 12v step  up Pololu with a 2 cell battery I guess that means that I can now very the voltage up to 12v?  Is there more info on these you can point me towards.  Thanks.



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 Posted: Mon Nov 13th, 2017 06:56 pm
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Rod Hutchinson
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If the ESC has a max voltage then that is the max you can step up to.  The step converters go from Battery to Stepup to ESC in that order.
You would be best to use an ESC capable of voltage you wish to run it on.



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 Posted: Mon Nov 13th, 2017 08:15 pm
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Si.
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Hi Phil :wave:



Although MOST of our models, whatever the scale, are designed to operate on 12 Volts ...

... MOST of them will run like the 'Bullet Train' with the full amount of juice ! :shocked:

So.

In my opinion stepping-up to 12 Volts, in many cases, is not really needed.



For my stuff at least, everything I am likely to want to R.C. ...

... should run fine between 7.4 to 9.0 Volts maximum.

Giving respectively, the option of 2-LiPos & no regulator, OR 1-LiPo & a 9 Volt 'step-up regulator'.


L:


On your 3-cell battery situation Phil. :brill:

I bought two E.S.C.s, both the smallest & cheapest I could get on eBay, at about 3-4 Bucks a pop inc. P&P.

Of course there are LOADS of others available as well, very cheap also, just often a tad bigger in physical size.



The reason your E.S.C. hasn't BLOWN-UP  :shocked:  yet with an 11.1 Volt 3-cell battery ...

... is probably because it may well have sufficient overhead not to do so.

Having said that, as with ALL electronics, higher heat = shorter life.

But we COULD be talking about 100s to 1000s of hours of OK life here.



There are TWO things of consideration here :-

The 5-Volt regulator which is built into the E.S.C only has to power it's own small circuit + the receiver.

Both of which require minimal power, there are not even loads of servos connected to the receiver.

Cos it ain't having to deal with an overly high-current draw, it can probably stand the 11.1 Volt input.



The 2nd thing is that since the 4 big power-chips on the back of the E.S.C. are designed for 10 Amps ...

... and your load is way, way lower than that for sure, they are likely to survive 11.1 Volts also.



If that E.S.C. was $50 Bucks worth of kit, my shorts would have changed colour by now !

But personally I can afford another £2.54p inc. P&P if I blow mine up !!

So as Clint Eastwood said ...

... " Do you feel lucky punk ? " :w:



:)



Si.



There are LOADS of DC-DC 'step-up regulators' on eBay, just as good & way, way cheaper than 'Pololu'.

There are tons of fixed voltages to choose from & also adjustable ones.



The main criteria for choice being ...

... How much current it needs to deal with & if it's corresponding physical size is OK for the install.



I am wondering at the moment on my install whether to use one or not.

Seems to me though, that unless you absolutely have no room available & simply MUST use a 1-cell LiPo ...

... a 2-cell LiPo stetup, sans regulator, in my case & probably many other cases, is the way to go generally.


:old dude:





:!:




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' M:R:W Motor Speedway !!! ' - 1:32 Slotcar Racing Layout
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 Posted: Mon Nov 13th, 2017 08:27 pm
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davecttr
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I use a lot of Pololu regulators, mostly 9V which give good top speeds with most of my locos. If the fully loaded loco draws about 300mA or less you can use a single 3.7V lipo with conversion efficiencies of 80% or better. If you need more than 9V or the loco draws more than about 300mA go for a 7.4V 2S lipo which can have conversion efficiencies of 90%

If you want to consist a couple of locos a regulator is needed to give a consistent voltage as lipos have a output ranging from a freshly charged 4.2V to a depleted 3V, obviously making speed matching difficult.

Last edited on Mon Nov 13th, 2017 08:30 pm by davecttr



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 Posted: Mon Nov 13th, 2017 10:05 pm
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bobquincy
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@Si
"There are LOADS of DC-DC 'step-up regulators' on eBay, just as good & way, way cheaper than 'Pololu'."

We have to be careful about these converters.  I bought some nice ones from company "A" and they worked well but a sudden overload (stalled motor) smoked them.  Their technical person said the inductor gets saturated and can destroy the switches, adding that there is no way to protect against this.

Company "P"'s converters just shut down in similar situations and recover after the load is reduced to zero and started up again.

Ymmv, as always,

boB



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 Posted: Mon Nov 13th, 2017 10:30 pm
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Rod Hutchinson
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I used Company P converters to 9v.  No trouble at all except where I got too close, in the wrong place, with a soldering iron.



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 Posted: Tue Nov 14th, 2017 01:19 am
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Si.
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These are the 'step-up regulators' I bought from Company 'C'






DC-DC 'step-up regulator' 9 Volt output.







DC-DC 'step-up regulator' variable Voltage.



Phil, the ones I bought were for smallish 16.5mm gauge projects.

I'm guessing if you use a regulator, which I don't think you need to, it would need to be a bit bigger.

2-cell operation, sans regulator, is probably your ideal option.



I believe most of the 'regulator guys' have small locos & are using them with 1-cell batteries, due to limited space.

I chose the highest current available, before the PCB size became too big.

Somewhat of a guessing game perhaps, but the specs. are mostly all in the eBay listings.

At about $0.50c per board inc. P&P, I aint gonna argue too much about the fine-print !



Most modern regulator semiconductor devices have built in protection for any number of things ...

... including over-current, short-circuit etc.

These are all simple pieces of electronics squirted out of the same sausage-machine in China.

The expensive ones at 10x the price come with a nice 'logo' on ...

... & probably an expensive 12 month all inclusive money back guarantee.

If mine blows up, I'll just have to cough up another $0.50c for a new one.



:!:



Si.



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' Mysterious Moose Mountain ' - 1:35n2 - pt.II
http://www.freerails.com/view_topic.php?id=7318&forum_id=17&page=1

' M:R:W Motor Speedway !!! ' - 1:32 Slotcar Racing Layout
http://www.slotforum.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=59295&st=0&a
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 Posted: Tue Nov 14th, 2017 01:53 am
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bobquincy
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As I found, the converters are not all the same and the electronics are not all protected. I don't mind the $0.50 if one blows up, it's the taking the model apart to replace it that gets annoying.
I sell models with these converters buried inside and really do not want one frying in a customer's model, then I have to repair it *and* feel like I should pay postage both ways as well.

I decide to use the components I know will work, so far I have had no complaints!



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