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Purchased A 'FlySky' FS-GT2E - Transmitter & Receiver
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 Posted: Fri Nov 17th, 2017 03:31 pm
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Helmut
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Can we please go back to the question what total space such a conventional R/C system will use in total?
Neither do I speak the Queen's English but I perfectly understood what Si has written.
It was concise enough.
Finally, one is only responsible for what one writes, not for what others lack in understanding.




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 Posted: Sun Nov 19th, 2017 05:22 pm
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Helmut
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Do you ever consider how ridiculously short the travels of trigger and steering wheel are?
I cannot see how one can sensibly control the speed range of a loco from switching crawl to full speed.
You move your finger just a bit and the vehicle sets off like a rocket.
That gun-type controller is nothing for me!




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 Posted: Sun Nov 19th, 2017 07:25 pm
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davecttr
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I presume you would have to remove the innards and put them in another container.
Is that trigger controlling a pot? If so a substitute pot would be needed?



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 Posted: Sun Nov 19th, 2017 07:31 pm
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Helmut
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I have done exactly this,
but one also can retain the wheel+pot, replace the trigger+pot with a resistor ladder,
change the inner mechanics a bit -all in all not  too tedious a task once you know the ropes.
I've converted quite a few gun-type controls this way.
Maybe I describe it some time.
The photo I've posted a bit earlier in #17 shows the conversion of the gun,
and by just using the innards, to a familiar handheld I've made.



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 Posted: Sun Nov 19th, 2017 08:57 pm
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George Ruthven
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Helmut,

I would love to do the same with my 3 remotes - any chance of some photos and a description pse?
As a mech eng I just don't have the courage to even open the remotes
although as you know I'am tackling more and more electronic stuff as the months go by.

I just completed the bridge and motor on the Lionel unit and it's running with a slight
hesitation.
I notice fine sparking between the brushes and remember what you said - I'll investigate and clean again.

My little grandson does tend to start off too fast either with the round knob or the stick
and we have subsequent derailments but he is learning - the 'springs are too strong'.

It's ironic that I speeded up the one Lima coach with a 4000rpm motor
only to increase the derailment because of his inability to counter the 'spring action'. 

I think your modification is the answer.



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 Posted: Tue Nov 28th, 2017 06:42 pm
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Bernd
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Got the system together and tried a 6 volt motor. As far as I'm concerned this system is a piece of crap.
The motor control is almost none existent. The ESC turns the motor on at about 2.8 volts. The motor buzzes and the red LED flashes on ESC. At 4 volts everything smooth's out. Motor is running at almost full speed. Max voltage from the ESC is 5.1 volts.
The controlling pot on the Tx is way to sensitive to minuet motor speed adjustments.
This system is going to the trash can. Glad it was cheap.
Expensive is better than cheap. It keeps the frustration level low.
Now I know a couple of you guys are going down play all this and say you have no problems with your system.
If it's close to the Fly-Sky and it works post what you did to it to make it work better.

Bernd

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 Posted: Tue Nov 28th, 2017 08:17 pm
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Helmut
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@Bernd
That's what I said in #58. You can use that system, but you have to alter the TX quite a bit to make it railroadworthy.
The ~1000Hz switching frequency of most of the ESC's available for cars can be quite annoying, too.
I did quite a bit of adaption to RR purpses using that sort of system, and have written a lengthy article about it in another forum.
It's all in German, and I don't feel inclined to translate it.
Wait for our resident boffin to report after he - some day - got his R/C working in a loco.
( The Queen, although English, would never use that term, BTW )

Addendum:
No wonder that with 1000Hz, many iron-core motors do not respond well and low rpm is well nigh impossible.
For our purposes, an ESC working @50..200Hz is still the best choice.
Those cheap ESCs are made for car-racing and not for switching speeds.



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 Posted: Tue Nov 28th, 2017 09:53 pm
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Si.
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" I too was inspired by Si's 'FlySky' info on the Tam Valley thread.
I already had TX and RX so I just ordered a 10amp ESC of Ebay.
It arrived from China a few days ago and looks just like the one you guys ordered but it came with instructions.

I hooked it all up on the bench on Friday and it works great.
 
Phil.


- - - - - - -


Seems like Phil got all his parts wired together properly & is good to go. :thumb:

George has also used the same E.S.C. I believe, with a different Transmitter & Receiver. :bg:

It's fairly obvious to say as well, that these components have been used by 1000s of other R.C. fans as well.



It's not hard to see in the Freerails R.C.Forum ...

... that there seems to be a massive vested interest, in slagging off affordable R.C. options.

It's hard to actually Post anything positive about such possibilities ...

... without them being straight away swamped by barrages of negativity on all fronts.

Sad really.



I'm guessing that the difference between huge ancient, possibly clapped-out, motors ...

... and something with a little more finesse could easily be a consideration.

But of course it's easy to blame anything but, what can sometimes be an obvious problem. :f:



Carry on slagging off anyone who dares to do different in whatever way they do. :old dude:

Keep filling up the piggy-banks for that R.C. system, that costs more than the loco !



Meantime, R.C.ers thinking 'outside the box', go with it ! ;)

If it's working for you guys ...

... which it seems to be ... :cool:

... stick with it !



:)



Si.  



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' Mysterious Moose Mountain ' - 1:35n2 - pt.II
http://www.freerails.com/view_topic.php?id=7318&forum_id=17&page=1

' M:R:W Motor Speedway !!! ' - 1:32 Slotcar Racing Layout
http://www.slotforum.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=59295&st=0&a
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 Posted: Tue Nov 28th, 2017 10:32 pm
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Helmut
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Now I get fed up with that sort of gabblehonk by a moderator.
1. How many locos have you, Si, converted to R/C using all available different  components that are available on the market?
My count is 20 so far, ranging from G scale to TT.
2. Have you ever tested the motor behavoiour in relation to the PWM frequency?
This is especially important when you use stock motors in models you want to convert.
3. Have you ever adopted that shotgun stuff to manageable ranges of knob turn and control sensivity?
If not, refrain from judging others' experiences with all sorts of RC gear before you haven't shown some of your own work here!



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 Posted: Tue Nov 28th, 2017 11:21 pm
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Si.
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" Now I get fed up with that sort of gabblehonk by a moderator."



Since WHEN ? has being a Freerails Moderator got ANYTHING to do with anything ?

Last time I looked, I was still permitted to say what I wish.

The vast majority of which, is ALWAYS very positive !!



I have a POSITIVE attitude to peoples experimentation with R.C. methods.

When I see Members in the Forum SUCCEEDING as well ...

... it just makes me wonder what all the 'can't do' & "this system is a piece of crap" attitude is all about ?



Gabblehonk, I'm sure to most people, could be the language of so called experience ...

... largely un-deciphered by the 'low-end' experimenters I follow ...

... who seem to amazingly get trains moving without it !



I don't need to " refrain from judging others' experiences with all sorts of RC gear "

Since I DON'T JUDGE IT !

Show me exactly WHERE ? I have anything to say, other than about what MY experiments are ??



There really is a ton of B.S. & dis-information flying around in the R.C. Forum.

Having said that, as before ...

... there are people skirting around it, doing things differently, and making things work !



Si.



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' Mysterious Moose Mountain ' - 1:35n2 - pt.II
http://www.freerails.com/view_topic.php?id=7318&forum_id=17&page=1

' M:R:W Motor Speedway !!! ' - 1:32 Slotcar Racing Layout
http://www.slotforum.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=59295&st=0&a
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