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Purchased A 'FlySky' FS-GT2E - Transmitter & Receiver
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 Posted: Mon Dec 11th, 2017 03:10 am
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Helmut
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I've shown the schematics for the pushbuttons,

here is sample of how they are mounted onto the TX's housing:



You need a 14mm hole (or 9/16") to make it snug-fit.

Now I think it is clear why I showed two 2-pin connectors going into a 4-pin,

because there are 2 PB's on each side.




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 Posted: Mon Dec 11th, 2017 10:32 pm
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George Ruthven
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Thks Helmut:Salute:



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 Posted: Mon Dec 11th, 2017 11:22 pm
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Helmut
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@George

Mind you, this is just the hardware - you need software to program the switching module.
I'll pack that all into a .zip-file and load it up ( one of these days;)).

In a nutshell, the switch module must be able to adapt itself to the TX's pulselengths,
and be told whether to toggle a function output or keep it momentary.

The flat-box adaptation is much more complicated
( not so if FlySky have done away with 9.6 - 12V supply voltage requirement in the meantime )
and only doable for the advanced electronics buff.

Anybody read of Si's implementation of the FlySky in his loco?



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 Posted: Tue Dec 12th, 2017 01:59 am
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Bernd
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Helmut wrote:
Anybody read of Si's implementation of the FlySky in his loco?

Did he ever finish it. I did see thread about it and that's what got me to buy a Fly-Sky.
Also I haven't seen him on in several days. What he do, take his toys and go home? 

Bernd

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 Posted: Tue Dec 12th, 2017 03:14 am
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Helmut
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Maybe he's busy to make up for lost time in RC conversion....



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 Posted: Sun Dec 31st, 2017 06:27 pm
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Helmut
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For those interested in that four-channel switch, here's the hex-code for an ATTiny13:
When the jumper is set, the unit is in learning mode
and will determine the neutral pulse length once it is switched on and the TX and RX are working.
The LED will come on as soon that is done.
Then one depresses the F1..F4 buttons shortly, followed by a 1sec acknowledge of the LED, or longer till the LED starts to blink.
So that function is either a momentary output or a permanent (toggling) one.
Once the four functions are determined, pull the jumper and the unit is ready to operate.

Lest I forget -Happy New Year to everybody!

Now have to go to the yard and and steam up my loco, the boys want to go for a ride with fireworks and replica guns and what not...


Attachment: RC_Kanalschalter.zip (Downloaded 4 times)



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 Posted: Fri Jan 19th, 2018 10:47 pm
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Michael M
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Si. wrote:



Hi Bernd :wave:



I am actually messing about with those parts at the moment.

Including removing the 'FlySky' receivers plastic casing.



They need to fit in a Porter tender, under construction at present.





But before trimming any wires, or changing any connectors ...

... I decided that a 'spaghetti bench test' would be wise.



The 2 pairs of red & black wires emerging from the E.S.C. for the battery & motor are ...

... cable-plug is for the battery ...

... cable-socket is for the motor.



The 3-way white/red/black wires emerging from the E.S.C ...

... should be connected to the 'FlySky' receivers Channel-2, observing correct polarity.



The single pair of red/red wires emerging from the E.S.C. ...

... terminates in a cable mounted general on/off switch.



I actually don't know what the switch on the P.C.B. is for.

But it MAY be an on/off switch for a 'brake' function.

Which if true, will have little effect for trains on either setting.



When the stuff is wired on the bench, I'll flip it and see !



:!:



Si.



The battery & motor connectors will both be discarded, as they are quite large.

I might use the on/off switch perhaps.

The 3-way white/red/black cable-socket, may get cut off & wires soldered directly to the receiver.



At £3.84p inc. P&P for the 'Flysky' receiver ...

... & only £2.54p inc. P&P for the E.S.C. ...

... experimentation is a low-cost risk !







Okay.

E.S.C. plugged into Channel-2.

Battery to plug & motor to socket.

As soon as I plug in the battery, the loco takes off.

What did I do wrong ?




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 Posted: Sat Jan 20th, 2018 09:09 am
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Michael M
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Darn.

Had the plug and socket backwards.

Oops. :doh:

Swapped things around and now it works fine.

Actually a very simple installation.

And for about $25-30 for everything needed not a bad price

(cheaper than most DCC decoders)




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 Posted: Sat Jan 20th, 2018 01:37 pm
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Helmut
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To be fair you don't have any extras, like directional lights. But still - you don't need a CU and track wiring if you go BPRC!



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 Posted: Sun Jan 21st, 2018 08:22 am
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Si.
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" Darn.  Had the plug and socket backwards.  Oops. :doh:
Swapped things around and now it works fine.
Actually a very simple installation.
And for about $25-30 for everything needed not a bad price "


Hi Michael :wave:



GREAT STUFF !   :thumb: :thumb: :thumb: :thumb: :thumb:

Pleased to hear the wiring-instructions I Posted, were very clear & easy to follow !! ;)



I was taking a good long look at your proto-photo Michael ...

... and I can't see :!: directional-lights :!: anywhere ?


:us:





For that matter, I can't see any door-handles or windshield-wipers either ?? ???

In fact I don't even think that has a battery, judging from the starting-crank ! :shocked:



I'm guessing it hasn't got an 8-Track player even ? :f:



:mex:



Life In The FAST Lane ! :P



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