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Bernd
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Ok, so after hearing about the supply problems of Deltang and getting product from them I decided to try out the 'FlySky' that Si. suggested in his post on the Tam Valley thread.

I've got the the Tx and Rx. I also ordered an ESC from E-bay. Still awaiting for the battery and battery charger.

So, a question for Si. The ESC came without any instructions and I can't seem to find any on the Net by Googling. The questions are, what do the two switches do? One is on the circuit board, the other is wired in. The two red and black wires with the red connectors, which is which? I'm figuring one is for the battery, the other for the motor. So, is the female plug for the battery or the motor?

Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.

Bernd

Si.
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Hi Bernd :wave:



I am actually messing about with those parts at the moment.

Including removing the 'FlySky' receivers plastic casing.



They need to fit in a Porter tender, under construction at present.





But before trimming any wires, or changing any connectors ...

... I decided that a 'spaghetti bench test' would be wise.



The 2 pairs of red & black wires emerging from the E.S.C. for the battery & motor are ...

... cable-plug is for the battery ...

... cable-socket is for the motor.



The 3-way white/red/black wires emerging from the E.S.C ...

... should be connected to the 'FlySky' receivers Channel-2, observing correct polarity.



The single pair of red/red wires emerging from the E.S.C. ...

... terminates in a cable mounted general on/off switch.



I actually don't know what the switch on the P.C.B. is for.

But it MAY be an on/off switch for a 'brake' function.

Which if true, will have little effect for trains on either setting.



When the stuff is wired on the bench, I'll flip it and see !



:!:



Si.



The battery & motor connectors will both be discarded, as they are quite large.

I might use the on/off switch perhaps.

The 3-way white/red/black cable-socket, may get cut off & wires soldered directly to the receiver.



At £3.84p inc. P&P for the 'Flysky' receiver ...

... & only £2.54p inc. P&P for the E.S.C. ...

... experimentation is a low-cost risk !





Si.
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There is some more about the 'FlySky' and E.S.C. here :-



Dr. StrangeLiPo ... or How I Learned To Stop Worrying & Love The Battery !
The Rent Went Up On My 5th Avenue Penthouse ...
... So I Had To R.C. My Model-Power Plymouth For £15 Quid !



:brill:



Si.






W C Greene
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Si, glad to see that this thread is about wiring the board...I first thought that somebody was trying to sell the damn thing here in which case I would need to fire up the "delete topic" key.

You gots some 'splainin to do Lucy!
WCG

Michael M
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I've got all the parts needed to convert my Bachmann Shay except for one thing...a round tuit.

Maybe you'll get some more converts on BPRC the inexpensive way.

davecttr
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Michael M wrote: I've got all the parts needed to convert my Bachmann Shay except for one thing...a round tuit.

Maybe you'll get some more converts on BPRC the inexpensive way.
Someone should manufacture round tuits. At work over 40 years ago there was a critical shortage of them, it seems this is still true!

Helmut
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Found a website where they distribute them for free.

Bob D
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Amazon here in the states has the Tx/Rx for $29, A Hobbywing ESC goes for $21, both with free shipping.

Bernd
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Michael M wrote: I've got all the parts needed to convert my Bachmann Shay except for one thing...a round tuit.

Maybe you'll get some more converts on BPRC the inexpensive way.

First for Michael M a Round Tuit.




When I was on a machining forum I used to say that I'd get a round to it so much one of the members cast a Round Tuit in aluminum for me.

Bernd

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Si. wrote:Hi Bernd :wave:



I am actually messing about with those parts at the moment.

Including removing the 'FlySky' receivers plastic casing.

Same here. Still waiting for the batteries. I'm installing one in an HO old Blue Box Atheran F7 A & B. The battery pack is a N/MHi 6 volt battery pack.

Thanks for the answer to what wires are what, I knew the three wires go to the receiver. Was confused as to the other two with the cable plug and socket. I figured that the switches are as you say. Just needed to confirm that. Thanks. Going to do the same with the connectors.

One thing that doesn't seem clear is the binding plug. On the pdf instruction sheet on this system it shows the binding plug plugged into where the battery power should be plugged into. What's your take on that?

Bernd

Bernd
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Could one of you Moderators or Admin's add a "D" after my "Purchase a 'Fly-Sky' FS-GT2E before Woodie has a heart attack.? ???   :)  :)  :)

Bernd

Si.
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 " Amazon here in the states has the Tx/Rx for $29, A Hobbywing ESC goes for $21, both with free shipping."



Hi Guys :wave:



Just to let you know how much I spent on my R.C. kit :- L:



'FlySky' FS-GT2E Transmitter & receiver twin-pack - eBay $20 inc. P&P

'FlySky' additional receivers only - eBay $5 inc. P&P

E.S.C. 10-Amps. - eBay $3 inc. P&P



So you can get the basic TX. RX. & ESC. parts all in for about $23 inc. P&P :shocked:



Just add the battery of YOUR choice, mine I think were a couple of 380mA LiPos at about a Buck fifty a piece on eBay inc. P&P

A 6-port LiPo battery charger cost me another $1.25 inc. P&P on eBay.

Plus I also bought a high quality and efficient 9-Volt 'step-up regulator' two for $1 inc. P&P



No overdraft or VISA card meltdown was experienced by this R.C. customer. :cool:



:old dude:



Si.



P.S. For those who simply just can't separate the 2 concepts of 'cheap' & 'high-quality' ...

... just think of the blood-pressure lowering word 'affordable' ! ;)



This is a mega-mooodern 2.4 GHz transmitter/receiver specification ...

... with full frequency-hopping technology, for essentially ZERO interference ... EVER ! :shocked:



The transmitter is a very nice build quality as well. :)

Smooth 'quality feel' mechanism, both forwards & backwards.

The 'ergonomics' of the design, is just about PERFECT.

EASY one handed operation, making coupling/uncoupling an absolute BREEZE ...

... without having to put the transmitter down, or use both hands to hold & operate it.








Measurements of the principle R.C. install components HERE :-

Dimensions Of The 'FlySky' Receiver, E.S.C. & Regulator














:!:

W C Greene
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Howdy Bernd...I fixed the topic just so you wouldn't have my "premature" death on your mind. The system looks OK to me but that "Capt. Kirk" phase pistol needs some fixin'. My buddy Dave and I just got a couple of old analog 27MHZ 2 stick transmitters (just what we wanted) on fleabay for $30 for the pair. Somebody had taken the battery contacts out and figured that "he" would scam a couple of old dudes. We installed Li-Po batteries in them and they both work like "burnin' hell". I was ready to build a new case for my old car transmitter but this satisfied me! (I must be really old for a transmitter to satisfy me...or crazy!)

Woodie

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W C Greene wrote: Howdy Bernd...I fixed the topic just so you wouldn't have my "premature" death on your mind.

Woodie

Thanks Woodie. I don't think I could have stood the mental strain. :w:  :) :)

Bernd

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W C Greene wrote: The system looks OK to me but that "Capt. Kirk" phase pistol needs some fixin'.

Woodie

Going to change that "Phaser" to something that will resemble the type of throttles we're used to using. L:   :brill:

Bernd

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It is of course the 'pot. in a box' approach, from Train-Sets that " we're used to using "

But why ?

Well, yes, it was easy enough, back in the day, to just bung a wirewound pot. in a box ...

... MUST be the right way to do it. :P



Bear in mind single handed operation for a 'walkaround' at all costs. L:

You won't regret it !

In fact WHY turn an innovative ergonomic dream, into a 'pot. in a box' at all ?



Oh IT IS a 'pot. in a box' Jim, but not as we know it !





NOT a 'pot. in a box'.

Mysterious Moose Mountains recent S.C.R throttle handset build.

NICE !



:moose:



Si.

Helmut
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As for 'Captain Kirk' style transmitters, you start with this:


and after a bit of tinkering:

Last edited on Fri Nov 10th, 2017 08:55 pm by Helmut

Nortonville Phil
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Hello All, 

I too was inspired by Si's 'FlySky' info on the Tam Valley thread.  I already had TX and RX so I just ordered a 10amp ESC of Ebay.  It arrived from China a few days ago and looks just like the one you guys ordered but it came with instructions.  I hooked it all up on the bench on Friday and it works great.  I will now be back in the RC business.  I plan to put this in an Oscale switcher. Oh and the ESC was cheap only 4 dollars? And the TX and RX I have a friend gave me.

That is not much money to get going in RC.

Bernd
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Phil,

If I understand this right the Receiver works at 3 to 6 volts and you O scale engine probably has a 12 volt motor, correct? What voltage battery are you going to use?

Any chance you could copy and post the instructions of the receiver?

Bernd

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Bernd,
The receiver I already had.  The ESC I bought outputs a constant 5v to run the receiver or at least that is what I have been told by my friend that is a airplane guy. The ESC I have is similar but different than the Flysky. I am using 3 cell batteries. 

Si.
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" I too was inspired by Si's 'FlySky' info "

" I hooked it all up on the bench on Friday and it works great."



Hi Phil :wave:



AWESOME ! :bg:

I'm sure that rig will suit your new garden O-scale line a treat !! :cool:

Certainly can't argue with the price. :thumb:



:)



Si.



Yes, the E.S.C. provides the Receivers 5-Volts, through its 3-wire 0.1" cable-socket connection.

That particular 'small red' E.S.C.s maximum operating Voltage, is said to be 8.4 Volts.

I'm sure 9 Volts or thereabouts is probably OK.



If you happen to have a 9 Volt regulator like I do ...

... you could drop 1/2 a Volt with a appropriate diode if needed.



1 cell LiPo + a 9 Volt step-up regulator will work.

2 cell LiPo giving 7.4 Volts sans regulator will also work.



Good luck on the install Phil. :!:

Sounds  C:cool::cool:L


:)





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W C Greene wrote: The system looks OK to me but that "Capt. Kirk" phase pistol needs some fixin'. ... I just got a couple of old analog 27MHZ 2 stick transmitters (just what we wanted).
Hi Woodie,
that's how I modified the sticks a bit to have a reliable 'OFF' position plus two functions ( like lights )

Attachment: 1900Jamara001.jpg (Downloaded 48 times)

Nortonville Phil
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Hi Si,
I hooked up my 3 cell lipo to my ESC and have tested it.  I realized yesterday that my ESC is supposed to only be for a 2 cell battery.  It still seems to work though.  I don't know if I will burn it up if I continue to mess with it.  I guess I need to get a 2 cell battery.
I have been reading on here about these dc dc converters to step up the power.  I have been searching for info on the forum about these.  But still have questions.  If I use a 12v step  up Pololu with a 2 cell battery I guess that means that I can now very the voltage up to 12v?  Is there more info on these you can point me towards.  Thanks.

Rod Hutchinson
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If the ESC has a max voltage then that is the max you can step up to.  The step converters go from Battery to Stepup to ESC in that order.
You would be best to use an ESC capable of voltage you wish to run it on.

Si.
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Hi Phil :wave:



Although MOST of our models, whatever the scale, are designed to operate on 12 Volts ...

... MOST of them will run like the 'Bullet Train' with the full amount of juice ! :shocked:

So.

In my opinion stepping-up to 12 Volts, in many cases, is not really needed.



For my stuff at least, everything I am likely to want to R.C. ...

... should run fine between 7.4 to 9.0 Volts maximum.

Giving respectively, the option of 2-LiPos & no regulator, OR 1-LiPo & a 9 Volt 'step-up regulator'.


L:


On your 3-cell battery situation Phil. :brill:

I bought two E.S.C.s, both the smallest & cheapest I could get on eBay, at about 3-4 Bucks a pop inc. P&P.

Of course there are LOADS of others available as well, very cheap also, just often a tad bigger in physical size.



The reason your E.S.C. hasn't BLOWN-UP  :shocked:  yet with an 11.1 Volt 3-cell battery ...

... is probably because it may well have sufficient overhead not to do so.

Having said that, as with ALL electronics, higher heat = shorter life.

But we COULD be talking about 100s to 1000s of hours of OK life here.



There are TWO things of consideration here :-

The 5-Volt regulator which is built into the E.S.C only has to power it's own small circuit + the receiver.

Both of which require minimal power, there are not even loads of servos connected to the receiver.

Cos it ain't having to deal with an overly high-current draw, it can probably stand the 11.1 Volt input.



The 2nd thing is that since the 4 big power-chips on the back of the E.S.C. are designed for 10 Amps ...

... and your load is way, way lower than that for sure, they are likely to survive 11.1 Volts also.



If that E.S.C. was $50 Bucks worth of kit, my shorts would have changed colour by now !

But personally I can afford another £2.54p inc. P&P if I blow mine up !!

So as Clint Eastwood said ...

... " Do you feel lucky punk ? " :w:



:)



Si.



There are LOADS of DC-DC 'step-up regulators' on eBay, just as good & way, way cheaper than 'Pololu'.

There are tons of fixed voltages to choose from & also adjustable ones.



The main criteria for choice being ...

... How much current it needs to deal with & if it's corresponding physical size is OK for the install.



I am wondering at the moment on my install whether to use one or not.

Seems to me though, that unless you absolutely have no room available & simply MUST use a 1-cell LiPo ...

... a 2-cell LiPo stetup, sans regulator, in my case & probably many other cases, is the way to go generally.


:old dude:





:!:


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I use a lot of Pololu regulators, mostly 9V which give good top speeds with most of my locos. If the fully loaded loco draws about 300mA or less you can use a single 3.7V lipo with conversion efficiencies of 80% or better. If you need more than 9V or the loco draws more than about 300mA go for a 7.4V 2S lipo which can have conversion efficiencies of 90%

If you want to consist a couple of locos a regulator is needed to give a consistent voltage as lipos have a output ranging from a freshly charged 4.2V to a depleted 3V, obviously making speed matching difficult.

Last edited on Mon Nov 13th, 2017 08:30 pm by davecttr

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@Si
"There are LOADS of DC-DC 'step-up regulators' on eBay, just as good & way, way cheaper than 'Pololu'."

We have to be careful about these converters.  I bought some nice ones from company "A" and they worked well but a sudden overload (stalled motor) smoked them.  Their technical person said the inductor gets saturated and can destroy the switches, adding that there is no way to protect against this.

Company "P"'s converters just shut down in similar situations and recover after the load is reduced to zero and started up again.

Ymmv, as always,

boB

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I used Company P converters to 9v.  No trouble at all except where I got too close, in the wrong place, with a soldering iron.

Si.
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These are the 'step-up regulators' I bought from Company 'C'






DC-DC 'step-up regulator' 9 Volt output.







DC-DC 'step-up regulator' variable Voltage.



Phil, the ones I bought were for smallish 16.5mm gauge projects.

I'm guessing if you use a regulator, which I don't think you need to, it would need to be a bit bigger.

2-cell operation, sans regulator, is probably your ideal option.



I believe most of the 'regulator guys' have small locos & are using them with 1-cell batteries, due to limited space.

I chose the highest current available, before the PCB size became too big.

Somewhat of a guessing game perhaps, but the specs. are mostly all in the eBay listings.

At about $0.50c per board inc. P&P, I aint gonna argue too much about the fine-print !



Most modern regulator semiconductor devices have built in protection for any number of things ...

... including over-current, short-circuit etc.

These are all simple pieces of electronics squirted out of the same sausage-machine in China.

The expensive ones at 10x the price come with a nice 'logo' on ...

... & probably an expensive 12 month all inclusive money back guarantee.

If mine blows up, I'll just have to cough up another $0.50c for a new one.



:!:



Si.

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As I found, the converters are not all the same and the electronics are not all protected. I don't mind the $0.50 if one blows up, it's the taking the model apart to replace it that gets annoying.
I sell models with these converters buried inside and really do not want one frying in a customer's model, then I have to repair it *and* feel like I should pay postage both ways as well.

I decide to use the components I know will work, so far I have had no complaints!

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Rod Hutchinson wrote: I used Company P converters to 9v.  No trouble at all except where I got too close, in the wrong place, with a soldering iron.I have a fear of going anyway near Rx's and regulators with a soldering iron, luckily my main Deltang supplier offers them ready wired and IMO that is worth a couple of pounds.

A question about these low cost alternatives. Are there any small enough to fit in 00 scale locos and leave room for the batteries?

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davecttr wrote:I have a fear of going anyway near Rx's and regulators with a soldering iron, luckily my main Deltang supplier offers them ready wired and IMO that is worth a couple of pounds.I have learnt to solder wires to SMD leds.  With Deltang receivers I wire up my own using the same technique.  The converter I blew up was more to do with a brain fade at the time.  All of my DT rx and Pololu steps work well.  I use them with 2S configuration, 7.4 to 9v running OEM open frame motors in HOn30.  The downside is that batteries and modules are in a trailing truck.

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@davecttr
Pololu seems to have the smallest footprint for 9V@300mA. There are some Chinese boards around, albeit a tad larger. I have used the 9V-stepup+supercap in a TT-scale loco, a battery may even be smaller depending on the capacity. You may distribute two or more of them wired in parallel, in the shell where convenient.

Last edited on Tue Nov 14th, 2017 11:33 am by Helmut

Si.
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" A question about these low cost alternatives. Are there any small enough to fit in 00 scale locos and leave room for the batteries? "



Hi Dave :wave:



There are a TON of these lil' boards on eBay around $0.50c a go.

They all use the same basic technology & chips/inductors etc.

There are some incredibly teeeny-weeny ones about if one looks.



Bob mentioned being worried about the good-value for money regulators blowing-up !

Some details in a photo from Helmuts link ^^ above.





This one is made by 'Canton Power', logo like a 'copyright-symbol'.

They pretty much make 'em all !





My ones I posted on the last << Page are also made by 'Canton Power' using the same parts.

They look incredibly easy to solder to, with nice holes/pads & plenty of tinning on the PCB.



:)



Si.

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Si, are these ESC/Receivers and do they have PROPORTIONAL SPEED CONTROL forward & reverse?

Woodie

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I checked online Woodie and they are voltage regulators. I should have been clearer with my original question. I was thinking of the receiver and ESC.

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In conjunction with a DT RX41d, I've used a Pololu 2961 for a TT loco. I did not want to replace the motor for a 6V-type, but I needed the small footprint of the Rx and the ESC to fit everything in. Yo have to adjust the programming of the RX according to the instructions on the website. The BD65496MUV may be better suited, it is 0.1" longer on one side (0.6x0.6 compared to 05.x0.6), but it can be driven directly by the motor outputs of the Rx. Haven't seen such small Chinese boards yet, but there is always Si who knows... But this is a deviation from the original thread, as one would explicitly need an ESC that works from with an R/C signal. Their footprint has to be larger, as you need the  µP + driver IC to make a suitable PWM out of the servo output. So for  small spaces, you only have the 6V-variants around - those for >12V are much larger and fit only into rather spacious models. And the 6V-variants are mostly intended for e.g. 1:87 RC car models. Just an example for what you can get here in Germany. This is the smallest one I could find - but 6V of course

Last edited on Wed Nov 15th, 2017 11:50 am by Helmut

Si.
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" Si, are these ESC/Receivers and do they have PROPORTIONAL SPEED CONTROL forward & reverse? "



Howdy Woodie :cb:



NO they aren't, and NO they don't.



:f::f::f::f::f:



Si.



;)

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" Are there any small enough to fit in 00 scale locos and leave room for the batteries? "



Hi Dave :wave:



Sorry, I thought you meant the DC-DC 'step-up regulators'.

Oh well, some useful info there ^ for someone anyhow perhaps.



I have some sizes measured from my components Dave ...

... I'll Post something about the size of all these parts later.

Dimensions Of 'FlySky' Receiver, E.S.C. & Regulator



:!:



Si.



I guess if it's OO-scale & has a tender, it's gonna be a breeze.

Likewise most larger diesels & electrics.

If it's a 'Thomas' it's gonna be. :bang:



'Thomas' the tender-engine would be easy though ! ;)

Which is basically why my 16.5mm gauge Porter is getting one !! :cool:



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Time to get this thread back on track. (pun intended)

I finally have all the electronic products together. I didn't realize you need two power supplies to power the ESC and the receiver. I used the battery pack from All-Batteries, a 6 volt 1600mAh Ni/Mh pack for the receiver and a 6 volt D cell battery holder to temporarily power the ESC. I discovered that the switch with the wires on the receiver is an on/off power switch. This makes the switch soldered to the circuit board the "brake on/off" switch. I didn't see any difference in the motor with it in the on or off postion. Also hard to tell what is on and what is off. No instructions comes with the Chinese receiver.

Here's a pic of all the equipment.



And a pic of the (from left to right) Receiver, battery pack & ESC. It's sitting on an Atheran F7-B unit frame. It'll all fits in the shell.



Next I'll need to modify the F7-A unit. I've removed the Atheran 12 volt motor and will be replacing it with two 6 volt motors driving a "ModelTorque Automatic Torque-control Coupling".


Bernd

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@Bernd 'methinks' that you have overlooked the ESC's built-in BEC. So you need only a battery for the ESC, and the receiver's supply is established when you plug it in. Saves you one battery set.

Last edited on Wed Nov 15th, 2017 07:38 pm by Helmut

Si.
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" I didn't realize you need two power supplies to power the ESC and the receiver."



You don't.

As Helmut says, the receivers 5-Volt power supply is derived from the E.S.C.s 'B.E.C' ...

... 'Battery Elimination Circuit' ...

... when the white/red/black 3-way cable from the E.S.C. is connected to the 'FlySky' receiver.

ALWAYS connect this to Channel-2 on the receiver !





IF the receiver was used with say a glider or sailboat, where there is NO motor used or E.S.C needed ...

... then a separate P.S.U. would be required for the 'FlySky' receiver ...

... which should be connected, in this case, to the dedicated P.S.U connectors on the receiver.



The switch on the E.S.C.s 'flying-leads' is indeed the on/off switch ( see my Post on Page-1 ).

Full E.S.C. Wiring Details For Battery Motor ON/OFF Brake & Receiver

The 'brake' function is only going to be noticeable on R.C. cars.



:!:



Si.

Bernd
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The post never mentioned where to plug the battery in. I assumed it needed to be plugged into the Receiver and not the ESC. So yes, it works when you plug the battery into the ESC.

Bernd

Si.
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" The post never mentioned where to plug the battery in.

I assumed it needed to be plugged into the Receiver and not the ESC."


- - - - - - -


From my original Post No.2 on Page-1 :-



The 2 pairs of red & black wires emerging from the E.S.C. for the battery & motor are ...

... cable-plug is for the battery ...

... cable-socket is for the motor.



The 3-way white/red/black wires emerging from the E.S.C ...

... should be connected to the 'FlySky' receivers Channel-2, observing correct polarity.



The single pair of red/red wires emerging from the E.S.C. ...

... terminates in a cable mounted general on/off switch.



:old dude:



Si.

Michael M
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Bernd,

Thanks for posting those photos.  Keep them coming as I'd like to see how everything comes together.

Bernd
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Si,

No where in your post do mention that the battery needs to only plug into only the ESC and not into the receiver. You may have thought it but you did't put it down in words.

Bernd

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Micheal,

I try to make everything clear and understandable with pictures. Leaves little to be assumed. More to come as I progress.

Bernd

Si.
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" No where in your post do mention that the battery needs to only plug into only the ESC and not into the receiver."



Yeah ... Why would I ?

In direct response to your Post-1 question ...

... My Post-2 VERY CLEARLY explains to you PRECISELY which connector the battery DOES plug into.

Why on Earth ? would I waffle on, describing loads of things, which it DOESN'T plug into ?




" You may have thought it but you did't put it down in words."



WHAT ?

I haven't "thought" any such thing !

My instructions explain what DOES need to be done, NOT what DOESN'T !


If you bother to spend some time & read them properly ...

... they simply & concisely describe a bench-test of ALL the required connected components.

Battery ... Motor ... Receiver & connection ... on/off switch.


:brill:


Here they are AGAIN :-



But before trimming any wires, or changing any connectors ...

... I decided that a 'spaghetti bench test' would be wise.



The 2 pairs of red & black wires emerging from the E.S.C. for the battery & motor are ...

... cable-plug is for the battery ...

... cable-socket is for the motor.



The 3-way white/red/black wires emerging from the E.S.C ...

... should be connected to the 'FlySky' receivers Channel-2, observing correct polarity.



The single pair of red/red wires emerging from the E.S.C. ...

... terminates in a cable mounted general on/off switch.



I actually don't know what the switch on the P.C.B. is for.

But it MAY be an on/off switch for a 'brake' function.

Which if true, will have little effect for trains on either setting.



When the stuff is wired on the bench, I'll flip it and see !





- - - - - - -


I fail to see how any clearer or more concise directions could be written.

Those few lines & paragraphs actually took some considerable time to write !

Certainly not one liners, full of typos etc. bashed out in seconds.

Likewise all the follow on information I have Posted regarding E.S.C. Voltages & regulators etc.

EFFORT has been put in here to both describe & illustrate things as well as is possible.



I guess I understand now why automobile manuals always say ...

... DON'T PUT WATER IN THE GAS TANK ! :dope:



:Crazy:



Si.

Bernd
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Really?

Why on Earth ? would I waffle on, describing loads of things, which it DOESN'T plug into ?

28 lines later, two pictures and 3 Emoticons you end with :Crazy:

Now that's crazy. A simple post like, "You don't use the plug on the receiver. You use the plug on the ESC. It has a BEC." Takes a lot less 28 lines. Perhaps I don't speak the Queens English and understand what your saying.

Bernd

Si.
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34 lines later

1 picture

&

3 emoticons ... in fact.



" Now that's crazy. A simple post like, "You don't use the plug on the receiver. You use the plug on the ESC. It has a BEC." Takes a lot less 28 lines."



Not crazy in the least.

As I have already said, WHY STATE WHAT YOU DON'T HAVE TO CONNECT ?

Like don't connect your Mains A.C. supply directly to your rails perhaps ??



If you're going to criticize my Posts for essentially a lack of clarity ...

... then, for sure, the original Post is gonna get quoted to show otherwise !

It was all said, clear as a bell, done & dusted, at the end of Post-2 !!

READ IT !
 


" Perhaps I don't speak the Queens English and understand what your saying."



I think you just need to spend a moment or two reading what has been laboured over for your benefit.

28 lines & 2 pictures ??

Mmm  .  .  .



L:


Si.

Helmut
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Can we please go back to the question what total space such a conventional R/C system will use in total? Neither do I speak the Queen's English but I perfectly understood what Si has written. It was concise enough. Finally, one is only responsible for what one writes, not for what others lack in understanding.

Last edited on Fri Nov 17th, 2017 01:45 pm by Helmut

Toeffelholm
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Not Flysky, but with conventional R/C components using Spektrum system. 

http://www.lasergang-shop.de/kreativmeile/node/165
http://www.lasergang-shop.de/kreativmeile/node/1411
(Sorry, it is written in German)

That's about  7 years ago now since I used RC this way, never looked back since I changed to DelTang .


Juergen

Last edited on Fri Nov 17th, 2017 05:30 pm by Toeffelholm

bobquincy
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Using an off-the-shelf receiver: My first operational N scale, with GWS 72 MHz receiver, circuit board from a micro servo for speed control, and 2 180 MAh (?) LiPo.

http://monorail.suzieandbob.com/IMG_6222_600.jpg
http://monorail.suzieandbob.com/IMG_6223_800.jpg

It was difficult fitting it all in there and antenna length was still a problem. Gen 2 used a Plantraco radio and was much better/easier but like Toeffelholm, when I found Deltang I never looked back.

boB

Last edited on Sat Nov 18th, 2017 01:16 am by bobquincy

Helmut
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The ER125 is superseded by the ER612L ( same price ). The 'small receiver' still has a footprint of 28x18x7mm³ - the whole assembly inclusive battery is much too big for H0/00 except the larger diesels. I think one has to admit that for the smaller scales, there is not much of an alternative for DT. Don't get me wrong, I like that product, and sincerely hope DT will stay in business.

Last edited on Fri Nov 17th, 2017 10:13 pm by Helmut

bobquincy
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Plantraco has a four channel receiver (900 MHz) that will fit in HO models. Since it is for airplanes the built-in ESC only has one direction but one of the other outputs could drive a DPDT relay or H-bridge to provide reverse.

davecttr
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Helmut wrote: The ER125 is superseded by the ER612L ( same price ). The 'small receiver' still has a footprint of 28x18x7mm³ - the whole assembly inclusive battery is much too big for H0/00 except the larger diesels. I think one has to admit that for the smaller scales, there is not much of an alternative for DT. Don't get me wrong, I like that product, and sincerely hope DT will stay in business.Sorry about going slightly off topic but that worries me, not that Deltang will eventually stop production which is inevitable but that it might happen sooner than I want!. Presuming that the product has a good shelf life and swopping Rx's between different locos I should be OK for 10 years or more. At coming up age 67 that should be enough!.

Back on topic, with the simple kit are there any options such as lights etc or just direction/throttle?


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