Freerails Home 
Home Search search Menu menu Not logged in - Login | Register
Freerails > Model Railroad Forums > HO & OO Scale > 'Henderson Bay Branch' - 1:87 Scale

Freerails IS ACCEPTING new Members ... To join Freerails ... See how to Register as a Member in the 'Joining Freerails' Forum

'Henderson Bay Branch' - 1:87 Scale
 Moderated by: . Page:  First Page Previous Page  ...  17  18  19  20  21  22  23  Next Page Last Page  
New Topic Reply Printer Friendly
 Rating:  Rating
AuthorPost
 Posted: Wed Aug 21st, 2019 04:01 pm
  PMQuoteReply
211th Post
Reg H
Moderator


Joined: Sun Oct 19th, 2014
Location: Shelton, USA
Posts: 807
Status: 
Offline
Si.

I guess this reflects my approach when I was a very active railfan. 

While everybody else was recording details,
I was always looking to capture the atmosphere, the look and feel of the entire scene. 

I have always been a fan of Winston Link.

Reg




____________________
Reg
Back To Top

 Posted: Tue Aug 27th, 2019 03:25 am
  PMQuoteReply
212th Post
Reg H
Moderator


Joined: Sun Oct 19th, 2014
Location: Shelton, USA
Posts: 807
Status: 
Offline
I tried an experiment.  

I saw this on some thread or other.





These are small (3/16" diameter by 3/16" long) super magnets. 
The idea is to use them in place of the Kadee uncoupling ramps.

They work amazing!!! 

Even couplers that are in pretty rough condition,
and refuse to work with the Kadee ramps,
work perfectly.  

Using them requires just a bit more precision than the ramps,
but is not remarkably difficult. 

Note the white dot on the rail to mark the location. 
That will have to be enhanced. 
It shows up great with no equipment,
but it is hard to see with rolling stock trundling by.

Just stop the cars with the couplers over the magnets,
create a little slack, the cars uncouple every time
The delayed action process works just fine, too.

They are very inexpensive. 
For about $20 (including shipping)
I got forty (40) of the little blighters. 

Installation is very easy. 
I drilled a friction fit hole into the cork roadbed,
and slid the magnets down until the tops were at tie-top height. 
It seems to be an ideal height.  Well away from the flanges. 
I have problems getting sufficient flangeway width around Kadee ramps.  
A drop of ACC ensures they stay put.

Installation takes less than five minutes.

The biggest challenge is basic handling.  
They are drawn, and will stick to, anything with ferrous metal content. 
I use needle nose pliers to work them into position.
Getting them into the jaws of the pliers takes a bit of finesse.  
I use a bit of rail for the final push into place. 
If you push them down too far,
just pass another magnet over the offender and it will be pulled out. 
The only trick then is to get the two magnets unstuck.  

These two have been painted rail brown, grimy black may work better,
towards making them as inconspicuous as possible. 


Reg





____________________
Reg
Back To Top

 Posted: Tue Aug 27th, 2019 04:16 am
  PMQuoteReply
213th Post
Michael M
Registered


Joined: Thu Jan 26th, 2017
Location: San Bernardino, California USA
Posts: 1234
Status: 
Offline
Reg,

I've been experimenting with the same idea on my layout. 

Been using small rectangle magnets glued to each rail on the outside. 
Works okay. 

Gonna try mounting the magnets on the inside of the rails. 
Should probably work better. 

Just been using cheap magnets picked up off of fleabay.
A lot cheaper than using Kadee's uncoupling ramps. 


Keep up the great work.




____________________
Michael
-------
Nye, Inyo & Esmeralda Railroad
Back To Top

 Posted: Sat Aug 31st, 2019 05:05 am
  PMQuoteReply
214th Post
Reg H
Moderator


Joined: Sun Oct 19th, 2014
Location: Shelton, USA
Posts: 807
Status: 
Offline
Find the uncouplers....





There are actually five pairs in the photo.





They are a bit difficult to spot if you are not looking for them. 
I painted the magnets grimy black.

My first attempt at marking the location was with white paint. 
It fairly screamed "here I am".  It was just too distracting.
 
So I am trying tuscan red.  
It is easily spotted if you are looking for it,
but it is not all that obvious if you are not looking for it.


Reg




____________________
Reg
Back To Top

 Posted: Wed Sep 4th, 2019 08:32 pm
  PMQuoteReply
215th Post
Reg H
Moderator


Joined: Sun Oct 19th, 2014
Location: Shelton, USA
Posts: 807
Status: 
Offline
I am in the process of making another deviation from the original vision. 
Originally there was to be limited under-the-layout work. 
Turnouts were to be (and currently are) operated by ground throws.  

Small change in plans. 
At the east end of the layout the mill site juts out on a peninsula.
The majority of the small yard at the east end is east of the mill site. 
But the throat turnout for the east end yard is west of the peninsula.  

Soooo, switching the east end involves a lot of walking around the peninsula. 
It has gotten old very fast.  

I have fussed about it for a week. 
Even invented a plan to use three relays and two push buttons,
to control a Switchmaster from either side of the peninsula.

Duh!

I have DCC. 
I just sent off an order for Digitrax DS52 stationary decoder.  
Once it is here I will install a Switchmaster on that turnout controlled by the DS52. 
I have a bunch of Switchmasters laying around. 

Reg




____________________
Reg
Back To Top

 Posted: Fri Sep 6th, 2019 06:50 pm
  PMQuoteReply
216th Post
Reg H
Moderator


Joined: Sun Oct 19th, 2014
Location: Shelton, USA
Posts: 807
Status: 
Offline
So I am on to rafters. 
All the walls except the west wall (front) is done. 
Why switching to the rafters I don't know. 
But that is the sequence in the instructions.

The instructions call for building the rafters,
as we used to do building balsa model airplanes. 
Except the material is only 1/16" diameter and is basswood (or similar). 
So sticking pins in it is not a good idea. 
They suggest using plastic wrap over the plans,
and a temporary adhesive to hold things in place.

Not attractive. 
So I borrowed from the Experimental Aircraft Association,
and the process of building wing ribs for full size airplanes. 
I built a jig.





The top jig is the gluing jig.
 
I made the blocks from some scrap balsa I had laying around. 
The lighter pieces are bits from the window cutouts for the walls. 
The material is extremely thin and makes great standoffs,
so the rafter does not get glued to the jig.

The bottom jig, with no blocks, is the cutting guide.

I have glued up one rafter,
and am waiting for the glue (Tightbond II) to set up. 
We will see how that worked. 
I am tempted to try ACC on the next rafter. 

Reg




____________________
Reg
Back To Top

 Posted: Fri Sep 6th, 2019 10:57 pm
  PMQuoteReply
217th Post
Reg H
Moderator


Joined: Sun Oct 19th, 2014
Location: Shelton, USA
Posts: 807
Status: 
Offline
This should have been over in the logging/mining area.

The rest will be.

Reg



____________________
Reg
Back To Top

 Posted: Mon Sep 9th, 2019 12:45 pm
  PMQuoteReply
218th Post
Warren G
Registered


Joined: Mon Sep 28th, 2015
Location: Yorkton, Saskatchewan Canada
Posts: 9
Status: 
Offline
I used similar.
1/8 by 3/8 long super magnets, applied in groups of two.

I set them flush with the tops of the rails [between the rails],
and used a short [3/8 high] yellow painted stick pin to indicate these spots.

Regards, warren




____________________
Regards, Warren
Back To Top

 Posted: Mon Sep 9th, 2019 07:23 pm
  PMQuoteReply
219th Post
Reg H
Moderator


Joined: Sun Oct 19th, 2014
Location: Shelton, USA
Posts: 807
Status: 
Offline
Warren:

So each location has a total of four? 
I am thinking of doing that. 
The spot has to be pretty accurate with just two magnets.
 
It works. 
Of course, it works best with couplers in perfect working order. 
Not all of mine are.

Once I get the mill scene mostly complete,
I intend to spend some time with each piece of rolling stock,
making sure the couplers are all tuned up. 

I also need to do some work on my current primary piece of power. 
It's couplers need work, as well as the hand rails.

Eventually I will get my second GN GP-35 set up for DCC and MU the pair.  

Reg




____________________
Reg
Back To Top

 Posted: Mon Sep 9th, 2019 09:49 pm
  PMQuoteReply
220th Post
Warren G
Registered


Joined: Mon Sep 28th, 2015
Location: Yorkton, Saskatchewan Canada
Posts: 9
Status: 
Offline
No, I just used two magnets, one on each side.

The 'active' range was about 3/8 or a little wider.
Using four would widen the active range.

I -think- the magnets I used had a strength of 48 or 52,
fairly strong.

I aligned both magnets the same way,
just by letting them stack naturally,
and pushing the end of the stack into the hole.

I used white glue to hold them after,
and painted them the same color as the rails.

I used a small straight pin [painted yellow] to identify the area.




____________________
Regards, Warren
Back To Top


 Current time is 02:35 am
Page:  First Page Previous Page  ...  17  18  19  20  21  22  23  Next Page Last Page  

Freerails > Model Railroad Forums > HO & OO Scale > 'Henderson Bay Branch' - 1:87 Scale
Top



UltraBB 1.172 Copyright © 2007-2016 Data 1 Systems