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'Henderson Bay Branch' - 1:87 Scale
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 Posted: Thu Oct 31st, 2019 02:48 pm
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Reg H
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Joined: Sun Oct 19th, 2014
Location: Shelton, USA
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Bottles. 
Who would have thought bottles.

After about two minutes of airbrushing last evening, the brush quit again. 
Very frustrating. 
 
Then I had a thought last night (around 2:00AM of course)
that the hose was too long.  I have a ten foot hose.  

I have a shorter hose.  So I tried that this morning. 
No joy.

Really getting frustrated.  
In swapping media around, I happened to use a genuine Badger bottle.  
Voila!!!  All worked.  

I got looking at the after market bottles I have laying around. 
I noticed three differences. 
The pick up tube is longer, the vent hole is smaller, and there is a gasket in the lid.

I took one of the after market bottle tops,
cut the pick up tube to the same length as the Badger lid,
enlarged the vent hole, and removed the gasket.

It looks (yes, I am bit tentative about that) that the problem is fixed. 

Before those mods, the brush would spray water
(I am using water to eliminate the paint from the equation)
for maybe 10 seconds and then short bursts. 

After the mods, I got a steady spray for a full bottle. 
No stoppage, no pulsing. 

Now to try it with paint.

Reg




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 Posted: Fri Nov 1st, 2019 05:51 pm
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232nd Post
Reg H
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Troubleshooting is always an interesting exercise.

After thinking that my airbrush problems were the compressor
(yes, the Harbor Freight compressor is definitely dead)
plugged brush, long hose, or faulty bottles,
I THINK I have actually solved the problem.

One may think one is an expert. 
But one must never forget that an "ex" is a has-been,
and a "spert" is a drip under pressure.  

I have been airbrushing for many decades,
and have never had the problems I have been going through lately. 
So what changed?

The paint. 
A foundational tenant of troubleshooting,
is to start with anything that recently changed.
I neglected to do that.  

To back up just a bit, I have been all over the internet looking for clues. 
Most of the information I encountered dealt with gravity feed brushes. 
I have always used siphon brushes.  

But a day or so ago I ran into an article,
that described my problems from the perspective of a siphon airbrush. 
This article was two pages deep in Google. 
I rarely venture past the first page, so you can see the level of my desperation. 

It turns out that internal mix siphon airbrushes,
have a small cone through which the metering needle passes. 
Some are threaded into the brush body, some have a taper fit. 
If there is the slightest amount of dried paint between the cone and the brush body,
air will bleed from the air side to the paint side,
causing the uptake tube to blow instead of suck. 
Which is an exact description of my problem.

I disassembled the new brush, found the cone (taper fit in this case)
and observed that the recess into which it fits had a very light coating of paint. 
I cleaned that up.

But that is not the end of the story. 
Until very recently I used Floquil paints almost exclusively. 
I thinned those paints very lightly, if at all, and never had a problem. 
Apparently the un-thinned, fine pigment, lacquer based paint,
did not have a build up problem on the small cone.  

Not so the acrylic paints. 
An article I found stated that, if acrylic paint is not sufficiently thinned,
it will contaminate the cone/body interface within a minute or so.
 
Yep.
So what is sufficient thinning? 
Another article that I found on YouTube,
demonstrated the "drip" method of determining proper thinning. 
If the paint slowly drips off a small stir stick dipped in the paint, it is properly thinned. 

So...last night, having thoroughly cleaned the airbrush,
I thinned the grimy black as described above with official acrylic paint thinner. 
I painted all the parts of the engine house in gray plastic with grimy black with no incident. 
There are a lot of parts and some of them (like the pieces for the roof) are quite large. 
I spent about a half hour actually spraying.
Following which I thoroughly cleaned the brush.

Fingers crossed, but I believe my problems are solved.  

If confused, always return to the basics.

The discussion of the engine house kit will now revert to the Logging/Mining thread.

Reg




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 Posted: Wed Nov 13th, 2019 04:45 pm
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233rd Post
Reg H
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Joined: Sun Oct 19th, 2014
Location: Shelton, USA
Posts: 840
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Bachmann GP-30 on a Kato GP-35 chassis.

The one on the left...

It took quite a bit of grinding and filing on the Kato chassis to make it work,
but work it does. 

I still need to figure out the headlights. 
Bachmann and Kato handle the lights very differently. 
I need a full afternoon ahead of me and a quiet house to figure this one out. 

Those two things do not happen simultaneously in our house very often at the moment.





Reg




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