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Steven B
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| Joined: | Thu Aug 13th, 2015 |
| Location: | Virginia USA |
| Posts: | 493 |
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Looking really good Reg.
I've always liked the look of this kit.
I like those old vacation hotels from the 1800s.
I really coveted Railroad Ave.'s old hotel, a resin kit released in the 1980s.
Could never afford it then, but it was based on the Hopland Hotel near where I lived,
and was a large rambling Victorian affair.
Have you tried Aliene's Tacky Glue for your shingles?
It is inexpensive and available at craft stores and Walmart.
I used it on my shingles for the depot.
I did not have to stain them though, so I don't know how it would react to that treatment.
It set fast, and allowed me to move on the project pretty quickly.
Keep it up! 
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Steven B.
Humboldt & Toiyabe Rwy
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Reg H
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| Joined: | Sun Oct 19th, 2014 |
| Location: | Shelton, USA |
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Steven:
Thanks.
This is a great kit.
One of the highest quality kits I have ever built.
The few problems encountered were strictly my fault.
I would have preferred to build this structure in 1/4" scale.
When I switched to HO in 2017 it was my intention to avoid craftsman kits and scratch building.
Since then I have built the mill, the log dump, a small office building and this hotel.
When I saw the hotel advertised I couldn't resist.
I was attracted to this building many years ago,
because of it's strong resemblance to the Cascadia Hotel in Skykomish, Washington.
I spent a lot of time in Stevens Pass in the '70's and '80's,
and breakfast at the hotel diner was an essential part of every trip.
I have two laser caboose kits and one caboose scratch-build project waiting in the wings.
There is plenty of work to do, but I think I will tackle the Great Northern wood caboose next.
Currently I am using a poorly assembled (not by me) plastic caboose,
that is kind of like a GN steel caboose and it bothers me every time I look at it.
The scratch-build caboose will be for the logging operation.
I will probably do it in styrene.
I use Alene's for limited applications.
On my previous layout (On30) I built a trestle completely assembled with Alene's.
I was attracted to the speed with which I could work due to the "tacky" feature.
A minor plumbing leak in my basement completely destroyed the trestle.
Now I limit my use of Alene's to applications in which the tacky feature is a benefit,
and inadvertent moisture would not cause a major catastrophe.
I use Titebond II or III in structural applications,
and Elmer's whenever it is important the glue dry clear.
I used the Elmer's on most of the shingles for the hotel.
On small details, like NBW's, I use ACC.
For plastic to plastic I use MEK.
It requires careful handling because it is pretty nasty.
I keep a very tiny amount in the model shop,
usually just enough to assemble one model.
I use a tiny bottle on the bench and use a pipette,
to transfer the stuff from the quart can in which it comes.
I will find a photo of that somewhere.
Reg
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Reg
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Reg H
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| Joined: | Sun Oct 19th, 2014 |
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If you look closely you will see,
a block of plywood with a small paint brush sticking up and really tiny bottle.
That is my set up for handling the MEK.
The small bottle limits the quantity in the work area,
the plywood block prevents spills,
and the paint brush, used to apply the MEK, is always handy.
This was an attempt to get the grandkids involved in assembling some of the plastic kits.
It was not overly successful.
Reg
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Reg
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Steven B
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| Joined: | Thu Aug 13th, 2015 |
| Location: | Virginia USA |
| Posts: | 493 |
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Fair enough.
I haven't had a flood... yet.
I used tight bond for the structural parts,
I like it too.
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Steven B.
Humboldt & Toiyabe Rwy
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Reg H
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| Joined: | Sun Oct 19th, 2014 |
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The glue stick has partially failed.
I will have a photo a bit later.
The problem is easy to fix, but points out the wisdom
of doing things the difficult, but correct, way the first time around.
Reg
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Reg
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Reg H
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| Joined: | Sun Oct 19th, 2014 |
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The glue stick failed. Well, kind of.
The shingles are firmly stuck to each other, but not to the roof structure.
The damage has been repaired with white glue. This also shows the staining.
I was hoping for more gray, but the shingles just would not take the stain.
Reg
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Reg
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Reg H
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The next project is underway.
This is a Great Northern wood caboose.
These are the parts laid out after painting.
This is progress.
Actually, I have all the windows built and installed in the main body.
So far a very impressive kit.
Reg
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Reg
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Reg H
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Some events in one's life.
I was working on the caboose last night,
and came up with the need to ream out some .015 holes.
No problem, just a twist with the #78 bit in the pin vise.
Except I can't find the pin vise.
I remember when I last used it. It was before the shop make over.
But I can't find it. There isn't even a drawer for it. Very strange.
Not a big deal. They are not expensive.
Except for having to order it instead of a quick trip to the local hobby shop.
None of those around here anymore.
Also, this pin vise is not just any tool.
It was my very first model building specific tool.
Up to acquiring that tool, all my tools were adapted from something else...
Used razor blades from my Dad, hand-me-down tweezers from my Mom,
used hack saw blades, and the like.
Gordy Miller and I used to walk to North End Hobby pretty frequently.
It was an hour walk each way.
I remember the day I bought the pin vise and walking home with it in my pocket.
I was about 11 or 12. Sixty years is a long time to have a tool.
It was involved in building a lot of models. I suspect it will turn up.
It has to be in the house somewhere.
Reg
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Reg
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2foot6
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I think we have all had this problem Reg,
but don't worry, it will show up five minutes after you get the replacement..... 
Peter
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I aspire to inspire before I expire.
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