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'Henderson Bay Branch' - 1:87 Scale
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 Posted: Thu Oct 31st, 2019 01:48 pm
231st Post
Reg H

Joined: Sun Oct 19th, 2014
Location: Shelton, USA
Posts: 995
Who would have thought bottles.

After about two minutes of airbrushing last evening, the brush quit again. 
Very frustrating. 
Then I had a thought last night (around 2:00AM of course)
that the hose was too long.  I have a ten foot hose.  

I have a shorter hose.  So I tried that this morning. 
No joy.

Really getting frustrated.  
In swapping media around, I happened to use a genuine Badger bottle.  
Voila!!!  All worked.  

I got looking at the after market bottles I have laying around. 
I noticed three differences. 
The pick up tube is longer, the vent hole is smaller, and there is a gasket in the lid.

I took one of the after market bottle tops,
cut the pick up tube to the same length as the Badger lid,
enlarged the vent hole, and removed the gasket.

It looks (yes, I am bit tentative about that) that the problem is fixed. 

Before those mods, the brush would spray water
(I am using water to eliminate the paint from the equation)
for maybe 10 seconds and then short bursts. 

After the mods, I got a steady spray for a full bottle. 
No stoppage, no pulsing. 

Now to try it with paint.


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 Posted: Fri Nov 1st, 2019 04:51 pm
232nd Post
Reg H

Joined: Sun Oct 19th, 2014
Location: Shelton, USA
Posts: 995
Troubleshooting is always an interesting exercise.

After thinking that my airbrush problems were the compressor
(yes, the Harbor Freight compressor is definitely dead)
plugged brush, long hose, or faulty bottles,
I THINK I have actually solved the problem.

One may think one is an expert. 
But one must never forget that an "ex" is a has-been,
and a "spert" is a drip under pressure.  

I have been airbrushing for many decades,
and have never had the problems I have been going through lately. 
So what changed?

The paint. 
A foundational tenant of troubleshooting,
is to start with anything that recently changed.
I neglected to do that.  

To back up just a bit, I have been all over the internet looking for clues. 
Most of the information I encountered dealt with gravity feed brushes. 
I have always used siphon brushes.  

But a day or so ago I ran into an article,
that described my problems from the perspective of a siphon airbrush. 
This article was two pages deep in Google. 
I rarely venture past the first page, so you can see the level of my desperation. 

It turns out that internal mix siphon airbrushes,
have a small cone through which the metering needle passes. 
Some are threaded into the brush body, some have a taper fit. 
If there is the slightest amount of dried paint between the cone and the brush body,
air will bleed from the air side to the paint side,
causing the uptake tube to blow instead of suck. 
Which is an exact description of my problem.

I disassembled the new brush, found the cone (taper fit in this case)
and observed that the recess into which it fits had a very light coating of paint. 
I cleaned that up.

But that is not the end of the story. 
Until very recently I used Floquil paints almost exclusively. 
I thinned those paints very lightly, if at all, and never had a problem. 
Apparently the un-thinned, fine pigment, lacquer based paint,
did not have a build up problem on the small cone.  

Not so the acrylic paints. 
An article I found stated that, if acrylic paint is not sufficiently thinned,
it will contaminate the cone/body interface within a minute or so.
So what is sufficient thinning? 
Another article that I found on YouTube,
demonstrated the "drip" method of determining proper thinning. 
If the paint slowly drips off a small stir stick dipped in the paint, it is properly thinned. 

So...last night, having thoroughly cleaned the airbrush,
I thinned the grimy black as described above with official acrylic paint thinner. 
I painted all the parts of the engine house in gray plastic with grimy black with no incident. 
There are a lot of parts and some of them (like the pieces for the roof) are quite large. 
I spent about a half hour actually spraying.
Following which I thoroughly cleaned the brush.

Fingers crossed, but I believe my problems are solved.  

If confused, always return to the basics.

The discussion of the engine house kit will now revert to the Logging/Mining thread.


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 Posted: Wed Nov 13th, 2019 03:45 pm
233rd Post
Reg H

Joined: Sun Oct 19th, 2014
Location: Shelton, USA
Posts: 995
Bachmann GP-30 on a Kato GP-35 chassis.

The one on the left...

It took quite a bit of grinding and filing on the Kato chassis to make it work,
but work it does. 

I still need to figure out the headlights. 
Bachmann and Kato handle the lights very differently. 
I need a full afternoon ahead of me and a quiet house to figure this one out. 

Those two things do not happen simultaneously in our house very often at the moment.


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 Posted: Thu Nov 14th, 2019 11:15 am
234th Post
Steven B

Joined: Thu Aug 13th, 2015
Location: Virginia USA
Posts: 470
Reg, Whew. 
Painting sucking and blowing...   :f:

I too used Floquil exclusively for years. 
It always seemed to work, then it was gone. 

I had been making the switch to Accupaint, then it was gone.
But TruColor is the same stuff.  It is all acetone based. 

I have been using some water based lately,
and through trial and error, like you mentioned, had finally gotten this thing working. 

Just to make you feel better,
I invested in a new brush because I was having such problems. 

I also found time painting temperature and humidity play a role in water based paint. 
Double ugh. 

So I now plan all of my painting by estimated time, before having to clean the brush.
Once I clean the brush, I really don't want to make it dirty again
(read clean again in a single day).  

We also moved and I lost my paint booth. 
I have yet to set it back up, due to so much time spent on rebuilding the wife's house,
so airbrushing has been a very rare thing and has had to be done, ick, outside. 
I hate having to "relearn" how to do it, as well as fighting the dirt, dust and wind.

I like your GP30 on a Kato 35 frame. 
I did that with a P2K Geep to a Atlas/Kato GP frame years ago.  

Steven B.
Humboldt & Toiyabe Rwy
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 Posted: Thu Nov 14th, 2019 05:22 pm
235th Post
Reg H

Joined: Sun Oct 19th, 2014
Location: Shelton, USA
Posts: 995

I am using Badger paints and now that I have the thinning process figured out,
they work very well.  And no toxic fumes. 
I am particularly pleased with how it adheres to, and lays down on, plastic.  

I find using a "formal" airbrush cleaning fluid, formulated for the acrylic paint,
works pretty much like using the Floquil thinner back in the old days. 

I have wanted a GN GP-30 for decades. 
Somewhere I have the beginnings of a scratch built one in 1/4" scale. 
That project got lost in daily life.  
Who knows, I may resurrect it someday if I can find the bits and pieces.

There are some details I want to address. 
The most obvious detail being the horns. 
It was GN practice to mount the horns in between the radiator fans. 
It kept them from freezing. 

I want to mount a snowplow, too. 
It doesn't show in the photo,
but the previous owner of the donor chassis did a lot of detail work,
including the brake lines between the brake cylinders and the sanders.  


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 Posted: Thu Dec 19th, 2019 12:51 pm
236th Post

Joined: Thu Feb 23rd, 2012
Location: London
Posts: 5680
" no toxic fumes "  :dope:

Hi Reg  :wave:

I was hooked on 'Humbrol' Enamel, by about 7-years old !  :shocked:

Just can't seem to quit !!  :us:

Well done for taking the 'Health & Safety' option ...  [whack]

... Oh by the way ... You know about the acrylic plastic polymers, right ?  ;)




' Mysterious Moose Mountain ' - 1:35n2 - pt.II

' M:R:W Motor Speedway !!! ' - 1:32 Slotcar Racing Layout
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 Posted: Thu Dec 19th, 2019 04:33 pm
237th Post
Reg H

Joined: Sun Oct 19th, 2014
Location: Shelton, USA
Posts: 995

I have some Humbrol paints.  And I like them. 
But they are considerably more expensive than the Badger acrylics. 
Which reminds me.  I need to get some yellow.

I am not sure I understand the reference to plastic acrylic polymers. 

In other news...
The rail within the mill complex has been painted,
and assembly has been started on the timber company's office. 
Which is a Cornerstone farm house. 
This will be the last structure for the mill complex for the time being. 
I want to get this moved along.  

Eventually, the mill complex will need a pump house (suggesting a well)
and water tank, and some basic engine servicing facilities. 

I am struggling with a small trackwork problem. 
Kato locomotives derail in the curve on the spur to the log dump. 
I could not figure out why. 
The curve is plenty broad enough, there are no kinks, and the gauge checked out. 
It turns out the track is very slightly out of vertical alignment. 
In a small stretch of the curve one rail is ever so slightly higher than the other. 
 is so slight that a carpenter's level doesn't register it. 
I had to use my machinest's level to register the slant.  

My GP-30 (looks like a Bachmann but is on a Kato GP-35 chassis)
will go through at a slow crawl.  But anything faster and it derails. 
Same thing with one of my Kato GP-35's. 
Maybe a different brand chassis would not have a problem,
but I don't have anything else set up for DCC yet. 
Well, except my Bachmann GE 70 tonners, but they haven't been programmed yet. 
That programming won't take place until I have the road numbers decaled on the cabs. 

Besides, I am of the philosophy that every locomotive should work on every stretch of track. 
At least, on every stretch it might have to navigate. 
In this case I would expect the GP-35's and the GP-30 to "switch the mill". 

It is going to be tricky to fix, but fix it I will. 

Speaking of decals, I ordered some decal sheets from Amazon. 
Now I just need a laser color printer to use them.  That will happen. 
Our ink jet printer has died (again). 
We don't print much color and the nozzles get clogged. 
They can be cleaned, but it is a lengthy and messy process. 
I will bite the bullet and get a laser copier after the first of the year.  
I can still do decals for the 70-ton GE's because I have access to monochrome laser printers at work,
and the lettering on the GE's will be black. 
But I probably won't get to that before year's end anyway.  

I received a rather generous Amazon gift card from my wife's employer as a Christmas present. 
I was casting around trying to figure out how to spend it (I don't like to let things like that age)
and found that I could get the HO version of the Idaho Hotel on Amazon. 
I have loved that model for a long time, but couldn't figure out a way to incorporate it into the On30 layout.
There just wasn't room. 
In 1/4" scale I was going to scratch build it, as plans are readily available.
But I have a space available in HO.  I have some free money.  So it is on its way. 
I won't start assembly until I start on the town,
which won't happen until after the woods end of the logging operation is at least roughed in.  
The hotel will be right across the street from the depot. 

Going even further...I have been fussing about the caboose for the logging operation. 
I don't like most of the kit offerings.  They are just too down at the heels. 
Simpson had a pretty modern steel caboose.  But it lacked character.  
I have plans for a caboose that I like the looks of. 
It is similar to the ex-Simpson caboose on display in downtown Shelton. 
Much as I enjoy scratch building, I prefer to do it in 1/4" scale,
and in my push to get the layout semi-presentable,
I don't want to take the time to scratch build a caboose. 

Keeping in mind that one objective of this layout, and the switch from On30 to HO,
was to have a reasonably presentable layout while my grandchildren were still children.
Incorporating the logging operation has slowed progress considerably.
No. I don't regret it.

One of the evil thoughts in the back of my brain is attracted to the NP 1200 series cabooses. 
I once had a 1/4" scale version that I lost in the big sale resulting from my divorce.
Man!  I wish I had some of that stuff back. 
I am thinking, in the grand tradition of logging railroads using hand-me-downs,
from mainline operations (and even street railways!!), 
the Henderson Bay Timber Company could well have acquired a Northern Pacific caboose. 
There is a laser kit.  I think it will be ordered soon. 

Besides, John Henderson was enamored of the NP wooden cabooses as well.

I already have a Great Northern wood caboose from the same company. 
I will delve into it's assembly once the logging operation is presentable. 
I also have an old Athearn kit that is reasonably similar to early GN steel cabooses. 
It just needs to be painted and lettered. 

Oh, yeah.  There is also the assembly of the Kadee log cars. 

As you can see, there is plenty going on in my fevered brain.  And this isn't all of it.
There are plenty of ideas related to the branchline operation.
That work has been largely side-lined by the logging operation.


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 Posted: Mon Dec 30th, 2019 07:07 pm
238th Post

Joined: Thu Feb 23rd, 2012
Location: London
Posts: 5680
" I have some Humbrol paints.  And I like them. 
But they are considerably more expensive than the Badger acrylics "

Hi Reg  :wave:

Mmm ... They can be a bit £££ sometimes.  :shocked:

But so can most of the acrylic brands here as well.  :us:

I think 'Badger' is a kinda USA brand maybe ?  ???

I have seen loads of 'Badger' airbrushes here (back in the day)

But don't recall EVER seeing 'Badger' paint, it's not 'NEW' is it ? ... Nar.

I was always a bit short of decent paints, as a beginner modeler (back in the day)  :sad:

But I had a recent 'Humbrol' MEGA-SCORE ! on eBay !!  :cool: :cool: :cool: :cool: :cool:

I filled up an entire A4-paper plastic-box area, with the lil' 'Humbrol' tinlets !  :thumb:

Spent about £50 and got EVERY single colour I ever dreamed of ! ... HUMBROL HEAVEN !!  :P

'bout 50 cans ... 'bout a Queens-Quid a can !


Just gotta get around to slapping some on the ol' clunky scratchbuilds !  :dt:  :time:

Lookin' good, as always, there Reg !  :)

It makes me wanna 'pop over' to Washington sometime, to PLAY TRAINS !  :bg:

If I didn't have 1:35n2 narrow gauge, I'd probably have HO diesels !  L:

Geez ! ... I've GOT them already ... Swingin' '60s 'Tri-ang' !  :old dude:

Those flanges could be a prob. on your good lookin' mooodern switches though.  :f:




' Mysterious Moose Mountain ' - 1:35n2 - pt.II

' M:R:W Motor Speedway !!! ' - 1:32 Slotcar Racing Layout
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 Posted: Mon Dec 30th, 2019 08:17 pm
239th Post
Reg H

Joined: Sun Oct 19th, 2014
Location: Shelton, USA
Posts: 995

The Badger paints are supplied by the same folks that make the Badger airbrushes.  
I have always had Badger airbrushes, but the paints are new. 
Or at least new to me. 

We will soon see how the Badger acrylics really stack up to the old Floquil. 
As noted, I have this "blue box" SW7.  
I have almost all the parts to convert to DCC,
except the resistors for the head and backup lights, and they are on their way. 
I just have to do it.

Once I get it converted, I will strip the shell
(We used to use brake fluid decades ago.  I expect it still works)
and repaint appropriately for the Henderson Bay Timber Co. 

I am working on the scenery around the mill complex,
but that is not terribly demanding, now that I am using Woodland Scenics materials.  
Just buy the stuff and follow the instructions and presentable results will follow. 
No skill required.  

Which is a good thing. 
In the area of scenery I have zero skill. 

I tried a patch using "earth" fine turf for dirt. 
It is OK, but has a bit too much green in it. 
I found sprinkling a little "earth" sanded grout around improves it considerably. 
I used the sanded grout on the west end. 
It turned out OK, but the grout is a pain to work with in quantity. 
It has a bunch of fines that get on everything and won't come off. 
But just sprinkling a little bit to tone down the green seems to work well. 

I recounted my spray bottle adventures in an earlier post.


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 Posted: Fri Jan 17th, 2020 06:26 pm
240th Post
Reg H

Joined: Sun Oct 19th, 2014
Location: Shelton, USA
Posts: 995
Most of the news lately has related to the logging operation. 
That thread is over in the Logging and Mining section.  

Pretty easy to find.  
Henderson Bay Timber Co.  

For those who may not know, "Henderson" has specific meaning. 
John Henderson was an avid ferroequinologist
(he detested the term railfan,
as he considered the word "fan" to indicate a casual interest)
whose research and photos show up in many areas,
and publications particularly related to logging and industrial railroads.   

He was also a very good friend,
who stuck by me through some quite difficult times.

Well, he was there for the good times, too. 
We made a lot of excellent railroad centered trips together.  

John passed some few years ago and is greatly missed.


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