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Questions On Installing My 'DelTang' R.C. Gear ?
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 Posted: Mon Feb 12th, 2018 06:47 am
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dan3192
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Rick,

I faced the same problems as you described. I decided to buy header pins, crimp pins, connector housings and a crimping tool and do my own wiring. Take a look at the web page below and follow the various links for the items you may want. 

I also purchased pre-crimped wiring with different colors on eBay plus stranded silicone wiring, which I like...the cover doesn't shrink when you are soldering and the wire is very flexible. I use 24 and 28 gauge wiring.

https://www.pololu.com/category/19/connectors

The photo below shows how I wired my HO Scale GP35 engine. In this case, due to height limitations, I left off the connector housings and just used shrink tubing around the crimp pins.  



The next photo shows the male-female connectors (the one with the red dot). The one on the far right goes to the combine car which has the batteries and voltage regulator. So just an example of what you can do.


And watch the video on the Pololu website, which shows the Tee-wiring.

Hope this helps.

Dan  



Last edited on Mon Feb 12th, 2018 06:53 am by dan3192

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 Posted: Mon Feb 12th, 2018 02:06 pm
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Rick Dow
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First off - answering my own question before anyone else has to. I typed in JST 3 pin connector on Ebay and located a supplier in the U.S. (quicker delivery for me here in Canada than ordering from China) and bought 10 sets of Micro JST 1.25 3=Pin Male and Female Connector plugs with cables  


So, I will simply cut the accompanying cables to the proper length and solder/heatshrink them and Bob's You're Uncle.


My second question above referred tp Teeing-Off a cable to form two cables. It has since occurred to me that it should have probably been described as a WYE connection. Haven't found pre-made WYE Connectors but I am searching for them.


Thanks

Rick

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 Posted: Mon Feb 12th, 2018 03:28 pm
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Bob R
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Rick,
For what it is worth....just my opinion.  Over time I have transitioned from complex wiring with removable this and that to simplified wiring and find the simple much easier and every bit as good.  I am a proponent of everything hard wired where possible.  It generally takes less space and has less failure points.  Look at how neat Dan's install is - beautiful!
If the battery size you have chosen will provide adequate run time, there is no reason to make it removable.  If necessary to remove it later there are just two wires to unsolder.
There are times when a plug is desirable.  I use a plug when the radio gear is in the superstructure and the motor is in the chassis or to connect lighting harness to the superstructure.  Otherwise the only plug is the charge plug.
Connecting both the charge leads and radio leads to the battery will eliminate the need to for a wye connection.
It sounds from your description (using 3 pin) that you are planning to balance charge the battery vice using the battery protection circuit for that purpose.  
Bob



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 Posted: Mon Feb 12th, 2018 09:43 pm
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John Durbetaki
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My experience with connectors is with big and small systems and as the designer of those systems.

If you need to take something apart, always use a connector. If you can guarantee everything works without having to replace things, hard wire it.

Another thing to note, if your soldering skills are good to handle fine pitches, then hard wire, but note that PC pads don't last too many solder/desolder cycles unless you can control the heat. My soldering iron has programmable temperatures, multiple quick change tip shapes, etc. Even I don't like soldering pads more than a few times. And if they are surface mount only pads, even less...

Another place to look for connectors is http://www.digikey.com, there were all kinds of JST parts in stock...

John




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 Posted: Tue Feb 13th, 2018 03:18 am
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Rick Dow
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Hi Bob,

Thanks for touching base again.

You mentioned; Connecting both the charge leads and radio leads to the battery will eliminate the need to for a wye connection.



Can you explain what exactly you mean a little more thoroughly for me.

 I assume there is a different way to hook up the wiring than I commonly thought.  Appreciated.

Rick

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 Posted: Tue Feb 13th, 2018 03:28 am
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Rick Dow
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Hi John,

     Thanks for the advice. (plus thanks for the previous info regarding reed switches as well.

I've gone to the Digikey website and they have everything we would need regarding wiring and connectors. Thanks.

What type of solder and what type of flux do you use? Any tips or "Not to Do's?"

One thing for sure, i will be really pleased to get that very first loco up and running. 

Spent the evening making HO scale trees.

Regards

Rick

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 Posted: Tue Feb 13th, 2018 07:46 pm
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Bob R
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Rick Dow wrote: Hi Bob,

Thanks for touching base again.

You mentioned; Connecting both the charge leads and radio leads to the battery will eliminate the need to for a wye connection.



Can you explain what exactly you mean a little more thoroughly for me.

 I assume there is a different way to hook up the wiring than I commonly thought.  Appreciated.

Rick
Rick,
The attached picture shows how I wired the F7 engine in post #37 (page 4).  Both the charge jack and the battery power to Deltang are connected to the battery out contacts on the battery protection board.

Attachment: rx61d-1a.jpg (Downloaded 45 times)



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 Posted: Tue Feb 13th, 2018 10:00 pm
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John Durbetaki
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Rick - happy to be of service...

Solder - I always use:
 - leaded either 60/40 or 63/37 (lead free solder is not needed)
 - no-clean flux (flux is not corrosive)
 - spool (1/2lb or 1lb)

as for gauge of the solder, you have to match to the amount of solder the joint requires - the more the joint requires (like soldering two 18 AWG wires together) versus an 0402 SMD (surface mount device and 0402 - 0.04" x 0.02" is the outside dimensions of the package)

As for tips
 - practice on cheap stuff before you work on expensive things
 - don't use too much heat - bad for components and really bad for reuse
 - have a watered sponge to clean the tip
 - clean the tip regularly
 - use a solder sucker and copper braid - practice on cheap stuff
 - know the heat flow path - heat rises, solder is not a great heat conductor
 - don't touch the hot part - use tweezers
 - a good mechanical joint is the start of a good electrical joint



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 Posted: Wed Feb 14th, 2018 01:28 pm
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Bob D
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John,
I have a Hakko FX-888D soldering unit and use 3.3%/44 .031 resin core solder.  What temperature is best for soldering on these small receiver boards like the Deltang Rx65b?



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 Posted: Wed Feb 14th, 2018 03:47 pm
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Rick Dow
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Hi Bob,


    I still don't get it, but I'm trying.


     Your wiring diagram (thanks by the way) seems to me like if that charging plug were to be plugged into a charger then the charging current would flow to the pads connected to the receiver.


    I assume your diagram is set up to push the charging current to the P+ and P- pads and then backfeed it through the circuit board itself and then out through the B+ and B- pads to the battery.  

Wouldn't it harm either the battery protection circuit itself and/or the receiver?  

Thks

Rick  

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