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Bob R
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Went to a model railroad show Saturday,
and could not resisit a Bachmann 0n30 Two Truck T Boiler Shay I found at a great price. 

It looked like a simple RC conversion candidate. 

After looking at the parts diagram and removing the fuel bunker,
I was convinced everything would fit well. 

First I removed the Bachmann circuit board and cut off the three standoffs that supported it. 
After removing the board, all that remained were the two motor leads and the two headlight leads. 
I unsoldered the leads to the truck pickups and pulled those wires out with the circuit board. 

I made up a two cell Li-Po battery pack with a battery protection circuit,
and installed it under the fuel bunker. 
I made up a mount for the DelTang receiver and Pololu 9 Volt regulator from card stock,
attaching the components and mount with RC servo tape. 
This ensured everything was insulated. 

The switch is temporary. 
I have not decided on whether to use a switch or a magnetic reed switch yet. 

I installed a charge jack under the frame at the rear. 
Once painted black it will not be very visible and is easily accessed. 

I have also not connected the LED headlight yet. 
I will have to add a resistor. 
It will be wired to be on anytime the power is turned on,
as a reminder to turn off engine when not in use.  

I am pleased with the result as the Shay runs great and realistically slow with this set up.

In the right side picture you can see the battery pack wired to the protection circuit board. 
The two motor leads are visible and attached to the DelTang receiver. 
The two thin leads at rear are the headlight leads. 
The two heavier wires coming up from frame are the charge jack leads.





Bob R
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With fuel bunker on.....





Michael M
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Bob,

Very nice work!  :2t:


I've got a Shay also that I plan on converting to BPRC.

bobquincy
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Good job!

The installation doesn't look difficult.
 
Maybe your work will inspire more modelers to try BPRC.

:)


Rod Hutchinson
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Nicely done Bob.

mwiz64
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Looks great.

If you ever get the chance or desire,
I'd love to see a little video of it running.



Bob R
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Done..... 

My skill at holding a camera while running the engine is poor! 


YouTube address :-

https://youtu.be/CsOtghEjf-k


Rod Hutchinson
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Delightful to whatch Bob.

mwiz64
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Sweet... Thanks, Bob. It looks like it runs great.

W C Greene
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You mentioned r/c Shays?





From many years ago.

A "converted" Bachmann On30 Shay, with 7.4 Volt battery, and an r/c car board
(now looked down at)...

But she's been running for maybe 15 years and still does switching when needed.

Woodie


mwiz64
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That radio almost looks as old and hard used as the Shay.

lol



Bob R
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Woodie, 

Is this the same engine as #5 - Lizzy? 

Your Shays are the inspiration for me buying this Bachmann unit. 
Not certain what I will be doing with it, but probably convert to 1/35n2.

Model car type conversions are great. 
Considering when you began proving the concept, it was the only option. 
Not sure I would like to mess with the old 27 or 75mhz though,
as the antennas for both the transmitter and receiver were a bit of a pain. 

With all the newer 2.4GHz and smaller sizes available,
it is nowhere near the challenge you faced "back when".


Rob V
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Hello James

I wondered if you had seen this thread

Bob has converted his On30 Shay using the same parts that you have





Perhaps his photos and description may help you with yours





Good luck

Rob


Bob R
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I have removed the boards in all my 20 or so conversions. 

No problems.  


I think the boards are resistance for lights, and capacitance for the motors. 


James Field
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Thanks Rob and Bob.

I found this after I posted the query.


I am still not sure on what way to go with the system isolation switch,
thinking of making a simple connecting plug out of the tank filler


James


James Field
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Hi Bob,

I am using the same components you used to convert your Shay.

I have the same papalu 9v Up/down regulator,
however this came without any instruction.

It has 4 connections the  VIN  and  VOUT,
which I take is the live input from the battery and output to the receiver.

The other two are marked  GND  and  SHDN,
can you please advise what these are and where to connect to?

Regards James


Bob R
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That is a different Pololu than I use. 

Mine has only  IN  OUT  and  GRD 

The 4th contact is optional,
and does not need to be used. 

It's use is easily found on Pololu's Web site,
in the description of use for that particular board.


James Field
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Many thanks Bob,

Have gone to Popolu website as suggested and found the following

GDN  =  Ground
SHDN  =  Shutdown.

It says  SHDN   be left unconnected, if you wish the board to be permanently enabled.

It further goes on to say, that a capacitor can be fitted between  GDN  and  VIN,
to protect against LC spikes, if connecting to more than 11V supply.

So presume this connection can also be ignored,
or did you just connect it to the chassis?.

Regards James


Bob R
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Not sure what is meant by just connected to chassis.
 
I do not use a capacitor. 

Using two cell 7.4 volt battery. 

Have had no spike problems in about 20 installs. 

The majority have been running over three years.


James Field
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Bob,

Just wondered what you did with the third connection  GND.

Did you connect it to something, or just left it unconnected?

Regards James


Bob R
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The three contacts are,

positive in from battery,

positive out to receiver,

and ground, which is battery negative and receiver negative. 

It does not ground to anything.


Hal Pridgen
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Like Bob said.


Here is a picture of one way you can do it,

certainly not the only way.


http://www.freerails.com/view_post.php?post_id=110857





James Field
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Many thanks Bob,

The photo you referred me to, shows that only the VIN and VOUT pins are being used for the positive and GND for the negative connections.

Normally in electrical terms when a connection is marked as Ground, it is earthed.

This is where I was confused.

Many thanks for your patience in answering my query.

Regards James


Last edited on Sat Aug 3rd, 2019 09:27 pm by James Field

Si.
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" Normally in electrical terms when a connection is marked as Ground, it is earthed "


Hi Guys  :wave:



This is not the way to think about 'Grounds' & 'Earths' generally.

Some examples :-



Analog audio-equipment & wiring, has GROUNDS, but they are mainly not EARTHED.

A digital circuit-board has a GROUND-plane, but that doesn't mean it's EARTHED either.



Analog audio GROUNDS are usually connect to the 0 Volts rail of it's power-supply or battery.

Digital audio GROUND-planes, are also supposed to be at 0 Volts, but are rarely EARTHED.


The GROUND should normally be thought of as the '0 Volts Connection' of any power supply.  :old dude:

The EARTH should be thought of as the 'Safety Earth connection' to the 'Earth' we stand on.  :old dude:



The symbol used on many schematics for this, is often misleading.

As the SAME symbol is very often used for BOTH Grounds & Earths.

Which are more often than not, seldom connected together.



:!:



Si.


Hal Pridgen
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Thanks for those examples Si !

I’ll remain neutral...   ;)



Si.
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There are many, in my opinion, WRONG electrical symbol diagrams on The Net.  :f: :td: :dope:



The diagram bellow, shows the symbols used correctly ...  :thumb:
... although I would prefer the 1st top symbol, to be labelled 'CHASSIS EARTH'.  :old dude:



Unless 'Double-Insulated', an equipments metal chassis, is always (chassis) EARTHED ...

... but, more often than not, seldom connected to the 0 Volts D.C. 'POWER GROUND' ...

... or any additional 'SIGNAL GROUND'.



The 3rd symbol here, allows for a 'SIGNAL GROUND' separate from the 0 Volts 'POWER GROUND'.  :P

 



If in doubt, especially with Mains A.C. wiring, consult an electrician for normal local practices.



Mmm ...  L:



:!:



Si.


James Field
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Thanks Si for that explanation.

As you can tell I am not an electronics expert.


Part of my training during my career included domestic electrics,

that is why I was confused over the terminology used.


James


W C Greene
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"There are many, in my opinion, WRONG" anythings on the net!
You got it right Si.
We all need to be well grounded anyway.
Now, what's all this lektronick BS?

WCG


James Field
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"all this lektronick BS"


I am OK following a circuit diagram,
and could build one given all necessary component values.

But understanding in complex circuitry what all the components do,
and why assembled as such I find difficult.

James


Last edited on Sun Aug 4th, 2019 08:30 pm by James Field

James Field
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Thanks to all who pointed me in the right direction,

I now have a Radio Controlled Shay up and running.





James Field
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I have put the charge socket in the back of the logstack.

The switching from charging to running,
is via a two pin plug disguised as the tank filler.


Attachment: switch over plug from charging to running.JPG (Downloaded 22 times)

James Field
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This is the shot with the charging point and plug switch connected:

Attachment: changeover plug connected.JPG (Downloaded 22 times)

James Field
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Sorry about poor quality of pictures.

One other irritant,
my Shay rear truck universal joint disintegrated!
Made of some rubbish soft plastic.

Have made up one out of brass,
with a plastic sleeve to keep knuckle's centred. 
Have a replacement truck on order.

Below is a shot of my replacement,
a bit over scale but it works.






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