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Visualizing A 1:55n3 Gas Switcher With Digital Graphics
 Moderated by: W C Greene Page:    1  2  3  Next Page Last Page  
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 Posted: Thu Aug 9th, 2018 06:30 pm
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Traingeekboy
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After reading the post about 1:55n3 I got a bit curious about it.

One important feature of this scale is cost.
It seemed to me that the ideal testbed for this scale would be a Fantasy gas powered switcher.
I've been spending a bit of time examining the AHM Yugoslavian made GE 35 ton switcher.
I got mine as a broken down and beat up model for free.
Yet, the motor still works!
I've read that these do not run well, but when I applied power the mechs ran smooth enough for what I am interested in.

Here is a side shot of the unmodified shell.







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 Posted: Thu Aug 9th, 2018 06:33 pm
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Traingeekboy
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And here is where I have determined the easiest way to cut things down happens.

(yellow marks are cut lines)







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 Posted: Thu Aug 9th, 2018 06:34 pm
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Traingeekboy
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Now to raise the cab a bit to make things a bit more extreme for the tall narrow look.

The cab seems too long, so I am proposing cutting away one set of windows.







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 Posted: Thu Aug 9th, 2018 06:37 pm
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Traingeekboy
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For the Final effect, the back of the cab has been chopped to make a small back porch on the loco.
This provides for a step up to the cab floor level.

I forgot to attach the under carriage and deck when I shot the first images,
so a little bit of Photoshop magic and I have cut another picture into what I had before and the pre-visualization is done.

I have never been much of a model builder.
I just love trains and train history.
So I am more of your toy train runner type.
Bit this simple hack seems very easy and I already have some testors solvent glue and a tube of squadron putty in hand.

Any advice on the best way to cut plastic shells evenly and smoothly?
Any design ideas greatly appreciated.




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 Posted: Thu Aug 9th, 2018 08:41 pm
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Traingeekboy
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I think the greatest problem with the whole internet store thing is that modeling materials and tools are always farther away.

Just went to ye old Ace hardware looking for a razor saw, but all they had was this hand "hobby saw".
Now that I have it at home I can see it is too cumbersome to use in this hobby.

Since the local hobby store was kicked out of their building and then moved, my trip is 8 miles, which for me is a bit much today;
no AC in the car and it's almost 90 degrees out.

As I mentioned before, Any experienced plastic builders who want to give me advice on marking and cutting that feel like chiming in?

I am not going to pretend I know what I am doing here.
Sure, I've tried to do some scratch building in the past, but plastic is not my friend.
I have destroyed a lot of plastic models whilst trying to "fix" them.
hee hee hee




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 Posted: Thu Aug 9th, 2018 09:28 pm
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Lee B
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A razor saw or fine-tooth belt on a bandsaw would work best.
Maybe even a dremel tool but that's kind of small for something like that.
Too many chances for cutting through that which you wanted to keep.
Heck, you could score it with a knife and straight edge and work it out that way.
It takes time but you can get some good clean cuts that way...


Traingeekboy wrote:
 
Since the local hobby store was kicked out of their building and then moved, my trip is 8 miles, which for me is a bit much today;
no AC in the car and it's almost 90 degrees out.


Wow EIGHT whole miles? How ever do you manage such a far drive?
Sorry, for me it's almost that distance to the highway to start to go anywhere else.
The nearest real hobby shop is just over 50 miles away and the nearest GOOD one is over 100 miles.
My sympathy meter registers a 0.0...




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 Posted: Thu Aug 9th, 2018 09:38 pm
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Si.
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Hi TGB  :wave:



I have a couple of razor-saws for 'micro-surgery' on 1:35 tin-hats.  :Salute:


;)


But ...

... for the average 'body chop' ... the trusty ol' junior-hacksaw is always the first choice.  :cool:

A newish, but slightly worn on wood, blade is a good idea, cheap as well !  :P





:shocked:





" It works for me ! " ... As hannibal always used to say on The A-Team !  :pimp:



A cut is always gonna be a 'bit short of the line' & need a lil' bit of sanding or filing anyway.  L:

Decent sharp files, foam sanding blocks & cheap bulk-packs of eBay nail-sanding boards, are my friends as well.  :thumb:



:)



Si.







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 Posted: Thu Aug 9th, 2018 11:37 pm
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W C Greene
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A razor saw is what you want/need for precision cutting. You say the LHS is 8 miles away, no a/c, and it's 90 degrees? How about 35 miles away, no a/c, and 109 degrees? Ya gotta do what you need to do. I do understand the problem however. But with a razor saw, some nice plastic glue (I use Testors Model Master glue with a needle point applicator), a bit of 220 grit sandpaper, maybe a nice fine cut large file, and masking tape to keep the cuts as straight as can be. You might get into making stuff and then... 1:55 is a great scale, you should like modeling in the scale.

BTW-the long trip to the LHS, etc. I mentioned is what I go through. But when you need something, "any port in the storm"...
Woodie



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 Posted: Fri Aug 10th, 2018 03:23 am
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Traingeekboy
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Ok guys.
I'm just spoiled and I hate city driving. ;)

I was about 1.5 miles from the old Caboose; "biggest model train store in the world".
I would walk there sometimes.

I promise, next time, I will walk the eight miles. :):):)

Cutting has begun.
Some of it was good, some of it was bad.
I expect I won't be the 1st that ends up literally sculpting a whole new train engine out of Squadron putty. :P




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 Posted: Fri Aug 10th, 2018 08:26 pm
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Traingeekboy
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Did some sawing last night.

I've reduced things to three pieces now.





And this is roughly how it will fit together.





Learning as I go.

The cutting wasn't quite as accurate as I would like.
I will need to spend a bit of time filing and sanding so everything is prepared for the assembly stage.

Definitely having fun though. :)




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