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Expanding The 'Yellow Creek Western' - On30
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 Posted: Mon Nov 5th, 2018 11:57 pm
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Tom Harbin
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Well I did force myself off of the forum long enough to start my first home-built turnout.

Not scratch built since I used FastTracks everything and still it only came out okay. 
But it is very smooth. 

I still need to cut the frog isolation gaps but want it to set up overnight first, 
then some stain/paint/whatever and it hopefully will be part of the new freight yard in Yellow Creek.






Tom

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 Posted: Sat Nov 10th, 2018 03:48 am
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Tom Harbin
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I didn't really know where to put this but since I have the post about my first turnout here, I figured this was as good a place to ask as any. 
It is a plain vanilla Fast Track turnout with PC ties.

I finished cutting the rails and painting/staining the turnout but I have a question. 
My question is about the PC ties under the points. 
How do you paint them or whatever so that they aren't shiny copper? 

I used an acrylic primer and then acrylic paint on the pc ties and they look okay at a distance but the paint just scrapes off under the points when they move. 
I thought about a chemical blackener but thought I remembered reading that they should not be used on copper-clad board. 
Am I over-thinking and just should have blasted the turnout with auto primer or one of those camo sprays?

Tom

 

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 Posted: Sat Nov 10th, 2018 03:52 am
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pipopak
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Try a chemical blackener. 

They do not build up like paint.

Jose.





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 Posted: Sat Nov 10th, 2018 05:35 am
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Michael M
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At the urging of a few others here I've been making my own stub switches.  

Surprisingly they actually work pretty well.







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 Posted: Sat Nov 10th, 2018 06:30 am
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Tom Harbin
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Jose,  thank you. 
My concerns were 
a) would the blackener delaminate the copper from the board and 
b) would the blackener somehow compromise the electrical or mechanical solder joints.

Michael, you have more courage than me. 
If I wanted to do this layout "right" I would be using stubs as well but I figured if I could just get a working slip switch I would be happy. 

I understand the geometry for a stub is actually different though the diverging route and I haven't found a good template for it either. 
I think I read that the diverging route is actually curved all the way through instead of returning to straight right after the frog. 

Also can you build that at the workbench and then install it? 
It seems to me it would be two separate pieces that have to be aligned very precisely.
I'm not sure I could do that with my current subroadbed (just ties glued to the foam board). 

I would really like to be using stubs and harp stands but I am just learning to crawl when it comes to "real" model railroading skills. 
Are the stubs in your build thread? 
I have started to read it but then forced myself to go build a turnout.

Tom  


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 Posted: Sat Nov 10th, 2018 12:14 pm
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Michael M
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Tom,

I draw out the stub switch on a piece of paper and construct it at the work bench.  
I find them much easier to make than point switches.  
The hardest part for me is the frog.  

For alignment I solder a short piece of brass rod on the outside rails of the stub.  
This keeps the lead track from going too far one way of the other.  

I make a very crude Harp Stand out of styrene.













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 Posted: Sat Nov 10th, 2018 10:05 pm
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Tom Harbin
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Michael,

Those look great. I just may have to try my hand at it.

Thanks,
Tom

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 Posted: Sat Nov 10th, 2018 10:14 pm
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Tom Harbin
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Just as a follow up on the turnout. 
I tried Jose's suggestion. 
I first dipped a piece of my PC tie material into my A-West Blacken-It and it did not seem to suffer any ill effects. 
Now my Blacken-It is at least 20 years old so it may not be quite full strength.

Anyway I then tried it on the turnout. 
Trying to use it on a built turnout meant I had to brush it on but still it took away the shine which was my main concern. 
It did however create just enough of a surface roughness or maybe thickness to bind the points a slight amount. 
I think it will work itself out okay.







The wood ties and the PC ties are close enough in color that it is really not noticeable unless close up and the shine is gone.







I still have to finish the weathering but I think I'll call this experiment a success. 
I figured the first turnout would probably be a throw away but, while not good, it is okay and will probably be a part of the yard ladder.

Tom

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 Posted: Sat Nov 10th, 2018 11:57 pm
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Michael M
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Tom,

Very nice work on the switch (turnout). :glad:

You're much neater at putting it together than I am.  

I tend to get a bit sloppy, but then I don't worry about gaps in the rail using BPRC.




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 Posted: Tue Nov 13th, 2018 12:45 am
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Tom Harbin
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Michael,

BPRC; I can't think about it. 
I keep going back to the Narrow Gauge forum and reading the threads over and over (instead of building my layout). 
The idea of not having track wiring is VERY appealing. No gaps, no dirty track issues, no gobs of track wiring...

I still need to justify what I already have which includes a half dozen DCC engines and TWO command stations (just Zephyrs and one was given to me but still...).

Thanks for the compliment on the turnout. 
I am rather surprised that it was as easy as it was, mainly due to the hand-holding of the Fast Tracks stuff but I actually feel like I could build one on a paper template now. 
That's not bad considering the only flex track I ever laid is what you see on this little layout.

Speaking of the flex track, after seeing it next to the wood/PC tie layout--well I will probably need to hand lay some of the track and eventually all of it. 
Too bad, I started this expansion to use some of the 18 pieces of ME flex my friend gave me.

Tom


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