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Expanding The 'Yellow Creek Western' - On30
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 Posted: Tue Nov 27th, 2018 04:51 am
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Tom Harbin
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Michael,

Thank you. I agree. 
Whatever I do there will be a run-around somewhere. 
My thinking is that if I keep this layout it will go in the lead down to the yard stubs.

I didn't think about it before but the scoring they have now on the foam is at 16", 24" and 32". 
Pretty convenient, if I'm building a house. 
Since it is nicely scored, if I replace the layout it will be 24" wide or 32" wide, not 30". 
If I sacrificed a little more of the room, and shortened it to miss the curtain, 
I could maybe, just, squeeze in a 15" radius with a little fudging into a 32(+)" width. 

Just thinking out loud, well, out keyboard.

One of the reasons I'm leaning toward all hand-laid track is to give me more flexibility with the switches. 
The problem there of course is that I'm laying directly on foam. 
I can't see that being successful with hand-laid but I'll never use cork again after seeing what it looks like after a few years, 
homasote is a non-starter, decent Lauan plywood is a distant memory. 
There are no door skins at the dump... 

I am considering some heavy card stock as some have reported success with it.
The layout is small enough that I could even use thin basswood sheets, 
but that would presume that I have some idea where I'm going to put the tracks. 

I've pretty much convinced myself that I cannot design trackwork in 2D. 

Tom

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 Posted: Tue Nov 27th, 2018 05:01 am
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Michael M
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Woodie has built layouts laying the track and switches directly on foam.

Could you pre-build the switches at your workbench and then install them?

I'm hand laying my track and switches.  

There have been a few problem areas but usually a few extra spikes and some CA will fix it.

With a 32" width you will probably end up with a 13" or 14" radius.  Call it 13.5". 






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 Posted: Tue Nov 27th, 2018 05:46 am
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Tom Harbin
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Michael,

Interesting about Woodie's layouts. I didn't realize he built some that way. 
Guess I need to improve my reading comprehension. 

I can, and probably will, pre-build at the workbench, 
although a part of me really wants to go "old school" and just use wood ties and spikes. 
After all, I still like wax-paper :bg:.

I agree on the radius. 
I'm thinking that with a cantilevered bridge out into "space" I could squeeze in a 15".
Otherwise the 4-4-0s go on the shelf or I see if they can be modified to work okay on 13ish" radius.

If I just rebuild the current baseboard, it is actually 42" wide at its widest point, 
and I have 3" of 1x6 sticking out behind the layout that could be used to go out to 45",
but I cannot go that wide the full length. 

I would not build a replacement that wide though. 
The ideal for the room is 30". 
I could squeeze in a 32" without too much hassle and maybe a little more, 
as long as it is not at the window-end of the room. 

Tom

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 Posted: Tue Nov 27th, 2018 12:34 pm
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Michael M
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Tom,

Could part of the loop be a removable, fold-down, or fold-up, section?  
That way you could get a 15" radius without intruding too much into your space.

I pre-build my switches at the workbench using a few strips of brass to solder the rails to, then install it on the layout with ties and spikes.  
Since I run battery powered locos I don't worry about gaps but you could use PCB ties and cut gaps in those.

I was looking at the Polyiso that you mentioned.  
Not sure about the foil covering, but it looks like it might work in place of the pink foam.




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 Posted: Tue Nov 27th, 2018 04:16 pm
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Tom Harbin
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Michael,

Good idea about the fold-up/down section. 
I'll explore that option as I envision, or I mean plan the layout.

I'm probably going to build the trackwork at my desk 
(I use the same desk for my work and model building) 
using PCB ties as I'm basically a lazy and impatient modeler. 

You did remind me though of a technique that someone used to use. 
They built at their workbench and put soldered brass strips on the top of rails to hold everything together, 
spiked it down and then de-soldered the brass strips. 
That is also an option worth exploring.

Steven Hatch (Railway Engineering) is using the Polyiso for his layout. They strip the foil off of it. 
I did a little more searching on the topic and found a guy writing about it in a blog on Model Railroad Hobbyist Magazine. 
According to him removing the foil is tedious as it comes off in little strips, 
but the big advantage is that it is not attacked by common spray paints 
(not sure if he means enamels or lacquers or both but I guess he means solvent-based).

The main thing I like is availability. 
Seems it is the most common foam used for new construction, 
as it is more fire-retardant than pink/blue/green, shrinks less and has a higher R-value/inch. 
I'm thinking of it for baseboard work and the other stuff for contours (if the Polyiso proves to be fiddley).

Tom

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 Posted: Wed Nov 28th, 2018 10:33 pm
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Tom Harbin
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Note to self:

"Reread sections on THIN bead of glue under ties, in MRR for dummies"







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 Posted: Fri Nov 30th, 2018 01:38 am
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Si.
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" ...  THIN bead of glue ... "



Hi Tom  :wave:



As Murphy always tells me ...

... you're  %£$@*&  if you do and  %£$@*&  if you don't !!  :f:



I guess it's YOUR round then.  [toast]



;)



Si.




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