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What Track To Use ... Cheap HO Or Hand Laying ?
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 Posted: Sat Dec 8th, 2018 04:43 am
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Jerry Kemp
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Hello Traingeekboy,

Thanks for kicking off this thread.  

When I moved to On30 myself, I read a handful of threads, articles, web pages, etc that discussed doing exactly what you are describing,
i.e. using HO track, removing alternating tie's, and replacing the remaining ties with wider ties.
I had similar plans myself to use the HO track and do the same thing. 

What stopped me was that none of the articles, etc, ever discussed where the replacement (wide) ties came from, where they were purchased.
To date, my layout plans are generally pretty simplistic, and I have been using the Micro Engineering On30 code 83 flex track and switches.  
They look great.

Would still like to explore the HO track with wider ties swapped in, but still seeking a source for ties.

Good Luck, and excited to see what all this thread turns up.

Jerry

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 Posted: Sat Dec 8th, 2018 11:34 am
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Michael M
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Hobby Lobby sells a variety of stripwood that can be cut into ties. 

Or, you can cut strips from a larger piece and cut them down to tie length. 

I've done both on my layout. 

Of course you can purchase ties that are ready to go.  

Several manufacturers make spikes.




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Michael
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Nye, Inyo & Esmeralda Railroad
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 Posted: Thu Jun 6th, 2019 02:28 am
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Traingeekboy
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I started this. It's here.

I sorta lost it, the thread, well sometimes I lose it too...

But now I have re-found the thread.


So I will outline my dilemma:

1. It's gotta be home made and cheap

2. What size ties to use

3. Gonna try the Walthers Goo method of track laying

4. How the heck does one make a switch?


I figure if I can answer those questions in a practical way,
I will be a full on hand layer.




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 Posted: Thu Jun 6th, 2019 03:26 am
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Michael M
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Traingeekboy,

For 1:35n2 ties I use 1/8 x 3/16 basswood about 1.75" long. 
For On30 you probably want something a little smaller. 

For rail I pick up whatever I can along the way. 
I have no problem using brass rail since I use BPRC. 

At a long train show I picked up a bundle of used flex track for $5. 
Most was code 100 with a little code 83. 
I slide the rail out and start handlaying.

For switches I can make stub switches okay, but have trouble with point switches. 
To make life easy I use old Atlas and Mantua switches laid on wooden ties.

I think handlaid looks much better, especially if you are going for a narrow gauge look,
that doesn't spend much on maintenance-of-way.

I've never tried gluing down rail, but others here have with some great results. 
But then sometimes I'm not sure just where my track is going until it gets there.




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Michael
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 Posted: Thu Jun 6th, 2019 06:25 am
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corv8
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When I started my recent layout 17 years ago,
I faced the dilemma of having a number (well, maybe a dozen or so) old European locos without scale-wheels,
mixed with an increasing number of new locos that demand "new" switchwork.

As I was always fascinated with the looks of Trus-Scale "High Speed" switches,
I bought used ones and installed them exclusively.
This solved the problem of old + new equipment, on the same layout.

However, they had some shortcomings as they came.

I feared about contact problems, as I often have read that brass rail may develop oxidation in a short time.
I even pulled the outer "through" rails on most of them, and replaced them with nickel-silver.
But I encountered no problems with the brass ones (there are all nickel silver ones too).

This is an original crossover, dirty as it came from evilbay: 





The moving parts - "points" - were built rather narrow,
with a large unsightly connecting piece where the switch machine attaches.
This piece had to go.
I replaced it with a narrow brass "tie",
and in this process, widened the "points" assembly to make it look better.

This is the only "handlaid" Tru-Scale kit on my layout.
Not happy with the procedure, as I was unable to push the nails in the ties I made from stripwood.
So I mostly glued the rails to the ties.
Think I bought the wrong wood.

However, the modifications I did to the moving parts are obvious. 





One pitfall I didn't expect.
With a base made from milled wood, they are vulnerable to moisture changes.
However, fortunately there are no extremes in this room.

Wonder if there is still somebody else operating with those?


Gerold




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Gerold
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 Posted: Fri Jun 7th, 2019 01:55 am
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Traingeekboy
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I've been eye balling photos for narrow gauge prototype trains,
and the ties on 3 foot gauge look almost double the gauge,
so a 6 foot tie for a 3 foot gauge.

So what width and thickness would a real tie be?

That seems to be the starting point for this.
I remember all the True Track stuff mostly from books.
I had a book as a kid by Sullivan?

Recently bought some Track for my HO scale European layout,
and there were some of those in a lot of Shinohara switches I bought.




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 Posted: Fri Jun 7th, 2019 03:54 am
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Michael M
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Traingeekboy,

You might find the info interesting:

http://ngdiscussion.net/phorum/read.php?1,148340,148862#msg-148862


" ... there was no such thing as a 'standard' tie."




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Michael
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 Posted: Fri Jun 7th, 2019 04:08 am
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Michael M
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And another:

http://ngdiscussion.net/phorum/read.php?1,41773,41801#msg-41801





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Michael
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 Posted: Fri Jun 7th, 2019 02:50 pm
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Ken C
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Photo of tie's in El Salvador.

Mix of NG, STG shop made steel/concrete and what ever works on the 3 foot gauge.







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Ken Clark
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real men don't use instructions. they are only
the manufacturers opinion on how to put the thing together!
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 Posted: Fri Jun 7th, 2019 09:29 pm
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Michael M
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Ken,

Great photo!  Shows some really decreptic ties. 


All depends on the look you are going for.  In my case for my two-footer I go for the broken down look with various size ties, well worn, and somewhat crooked.



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Michael
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