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Scratch Building In 2019 With 3D-Printed Parts
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 Posted: Tue Mar 12th, 2019 09:35 am
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tebee
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Home printing quality is improving all the time.

I have a friend in the UK who is printing some of my designs and reselling them on eBay.
He started with a $200 printer and improved it himself as well as trying different techniques.

His latest product is this little diesel switcher in On16.5 (British On30).

Done as a flat pack kit he is selling it for £15 -
would be about £50 on Shapeways.










I'm currently working on a BO-BO centercab version for On30.


Tom




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 Posted: Tue Mar 12th, 2019 07:25 pm
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Toeffelholm
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Sean, that looks like real good prints.

What about the quality of the print concerning the bolt and nut detail?

Could make a sharper closeup of it?

Juergen




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modelling in 1:22.5 on 32mm and 16.5mm track
Actual project: 7/8" scale on 45 mm track
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 Posted: Tue Mar 12th, 2019 07:55 pm
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ashtrain
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Sean: 

Thanks for starting this thread. 
It has got this old guy thinking about this again. 

I model in 7/8's and would like to print truck side frames. 
Is the material strong enough for this or must one use a stronger material (nylon, polycarbonate etc). 

The work you are doing with the flat cars is lovely. 
Looking forward to more.   

Dick w.


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 Posted: Tue Mar 12th, 2019 08:47 pm
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tebee
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Dick

Printing in ABS or HIPS is fine for truck sideframes even in 7/8ths -
I've only done G scale so far, but I can't see any problems arising from going to 7/8ths.

I would suggest doing a separate bearing though, I use tophat ones printed in nylon at Shapeways -
3mm inside, 5 mm outside, but you can use brass or even ball bearings.

Have you got a printer yet ?
I can resize some of the G scale ones and send you a file to try if you want.

Tom




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 Posted: Tue Mar 12th, 2019 09:15 pm
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ashtrain
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Thanks Tom, 

So far just looking at some, very confusing.
Like what I see in the Enders universe. Also the Tevo Tornado looks good. 

Yes I would appreciate the file. 
I have no intention of ever using any of this for anything other than my own enjoyment.

Thank you. 

Dick w.


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 Posted: Tue Mar 19th, 2019 03:15 pm
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Si.
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Hi Sean  :wave:



OK ... I still don't believe I could draw your  C :cool: :cool: L  underframe in 6 hours !  :shocked: 



But your V-tippers with all those COMPLEX curves & triangles, just look  :shocked: :shocked: :shocked: :shocked: :shocked: !!





Very fine looking models & great behind that Porter.  :thumb:



:)



Si.




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 Posted: Tue Mar 19th, 2019 05:28 pm
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Sean W.
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Thanks Si,

I must confess though, I downloaded those ore cars off 'thingiverse'.

However, the original model used link and pin couplers,
I modified the original design in 'tinkercad' to accept Kadee couplers.

These Ore cars use about $0.20 cents worth of filament to make,
and I get an 8 pack of On30 Kadee wheels for $8.

With Kadee couplers, each one of these ore cars cost about $3.20 to make.
Not bad considering a 3 pack of Bachmann side dump ore cars runs about $100.




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 Posted: Sat Mar 23rd, 2019 04:02 am
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John Ray
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Sean,

Your car frame design is first rate, the built-in details add a lot.
The finished gondola looks great.
Your work with TinkerCad is also very impressive.

The fact that you 3D printed it :rah: is terrific. 
I'm sure others will find your post as inspirational as I have. 

I have had trouble getting my head around 3D CAD.
I tried working with Sketchup but ended up giving up.
I did have limited success with TinkerCad and have created a few things with it.

I should stress there is nothing wrong with either of these programs,
the limitations have been with me.

I too am new to 3D printing, I've had my printer for about three months now.
I also went through months of agonizing over specs and reviews,
trying to decide on the best printer to buy.

I ended up buying the Creality Ender 3 ! 
This is without a doubt the best $200 I have ever spent.

As you said, this is a hobby unto itself.
Over the past few months I have printed dozens of toys for the grand kids,
as well as a bunch of knick-knacks and other items for friends and family.
 
Most importantly....I have printed TRAINS!!!  well, train parts. 

Your tutorial on 3D printing was spot-on.
I would highly recommend anyone starting in 3D printing follow your outline and links exactly.
It is really not all that complicated.

Follow defined procedures and you will be rewarded with a great build.
If you have a problem, there are many people willing to help.

If you don't follow procedures or willy-nilly start making random adjustments,
you will end up with a pile of spaghetti on your build plate.

John R.


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 Posted: Sat Mar 23rd, 2019 05:44 am
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Sean W
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Hi John, thanks for joining the conversation!

I would happily send you my flat car frame I designed!

If you model in On30?

I also designed a skeleton log car.

Thanks for the kind words!


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 Posted: Sun Mar 24th, 2019 02:01 am
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John Ray
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Sean,

Thank you for the generous offer.
I would be pleased to build a car using your design !!!

I no longer model in On30, but I can re-scale your design to my scale 1:29n3.
That's 1/29th scale 3 foot narrow gauge running on O-gauge track.
(My On30 pals refer to it as a deviant scale/guage combo)

I made the move in scale due to vision problems,
so far it's working great.

The major issue I had with this scale was obtaining suitable trucks.
O-scale were too small, and even the smallest G-scale were too large.
 
I started hand making a few trucks and soon decided that the process was too tedious.

Then I came across an archbar truck design on Thingiverse by "Raby".
I modified it, and rescaled it in TinkerCad. 





I can now print all the trucks I need! (the bearings are 1/8 eyelets)

I would like to design some more detailed trucks in the future, but right now these do just fine.

You were right on point when you suggested finding parts in the gaming section of Thingiverse.
With a little massaging on TinkerCad, I have printed barrels, crates, tools, and an outhouse using those files.

Please let me know how I can obtain a copy of your file (.stl)?
I will re-scale it and have it on the printer in 24 hours.

Thanks again,
John R.


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