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'GEM' 0-4-0 Industrial Electric Steeplecab - 1:87 Scale
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 Posted: Sat Jun 1st, 2019 11:26 am
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corv8
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Another electric contraption from my backshops... 

An electric switcher, which I guess is of Japanese heritage,
maybe a prototype built under-license of GE, as outlines are leading in this direction...  

It was manufactured by Olympia and imported in the USA by GEM.

Drive was by rather bulky open frame motor, filling the cab, and mounted at an angle.
It drove one axle directly and the second one by spring belt. 

All this is not really up to my standards... 

I want free view through the cab if possible, and DCC.










Found that a Tenshodo SPD with 31 mm Wheelbase was a perfect match.

It required a rectangular hole in the floor, and means of attaching it there.





Fabricated a higher floor from brass sheet.

Then glued the decoder on it with double sided tape.





Right now I am decaling her, and doing a little touch up on the paint.

Basically I like the  the green/yellow scheme...
However I have painted the window frames tuscan and have left the handrails yellow...

Too much yellow - together with the red California Pacific decals,
this resulted in a rather gaudy appearance I consider inappropriate for a switcher.

Gerold




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 Posted: Sat Jun 1st, 2019 11:57 am
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slateworks
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I'll be interested to hear how you get on with the SPUD,
as I had little luck in getting it to work smoothly in Updah's crew car.


On the other hand the NWSL Stanton Drive works superbly,
and the 1215/1220 model is still available,
or so it seems from their osorail shop.

They offer just under and just over 31mm wheelbase options,
in their 8'-6" and 9'-0" wheelbase versions.




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Updah Creek http://www.freerails.com/view_topic.php?id=7457&forum_id=4&page=1
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 Posted: Sat Jun 1st, 2019 01:30 pm
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corv8
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slateworks wrote: I'll be interested to hear how you get on with the SPUD,
as I had little luck in getting it to work smoothly in Updah's crew car.


On the other hand the NWSL Stanton Drive works superbly,
and the 1215/1220 model is still available,
or so it seems from their osorail shop.

They offer just under and just over 31mm wheelbase options,
in their 8'-6" and 9'-0" wheelbase versions.


Doug,

It works reasonably good within the limits of a light four-wheel vehicle.

Had her running for fifteen minutes to adjust the speed settings of the decoder,
according to my "master" loco - the slowest one, a Broadway SW-7.

Slow speed is acceptable for me, I can run her at step "1" of 126. 

However, this SPUD came with an ancient PFM sheet,
and a conversion bolster to put it in a brass diesel.
I would not dare to pull a long train with such an arrangement,
I doubt the tiny motor would survive for long.

The NWSL SPUDS are surely the better choice;
the Tenshodos are rather simple contraptions,
AND they are known to split the axle gears.  

What issues do you have with the crew car?
 
Gerold




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 Posted: Sat Jun 1st, 2019 05:17 pm
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slateworks
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Gerold, no problems now, but the original Tenshodo SPUD had bad pick-up,
even after I dismantled it and rebuilt them, and it got hot.

In fact I have two and they both work as badly as each other,
stuttering along and not even able to pull the skin off a rice pudding!

I know others have been successful with them but not me.

The NWSL Stanton Drive on the other hand works flawlessly,
with an ESU Loksound V4 decoder and a Goose sound track and sugarcube speaker.

https://youtu.be/YFg1c0N0HI8

It happily pulls a heavily modified Bachmann caboose and drop centre bogie wagon,
up my steepish grades with ease and with no overheating.





By the way, the creaking on the video is my camera tripod mount, not the drive unit!




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 Posted: Sat Jun 1st, 2019 08:39 pm
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corv8
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Nice... like both layout and Railtruck!

Now please tell me how to build this in HOn3 ... I have a Lambert Freight Goose with open bed,
which I would love to have power of its own, without the ghost trailer!

Maybe what makes a difference is that I am more of a tinkerer than an operator.
If a loco has operated once, I am happy and put it in the display cabinet and start the next project...
so I may miss some shortcomings that might appear later.

Gerold




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 Posted: Sat Jun 1st, 2019 10:47 pm
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slateworks
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Thanks Gerold, you're most kind. 

I'm afraid my HOn3 - actually 009 - days are long behind me and I now work solely in On30,
so I wouldn't know where to start in your scale other than transferring the boxed mechanism to the flatbed,
but in a way that allows the mech. to swivel a little to cope with curves in the track!

The Lambert model is a real cutie though, even if it needs the captive wagon as motive power.





I wanted that body configuration in On30 where it is not available as far as I can see,
so scratch built it in styrene onto a Precision Craft chassis.





To turn the one on the left into the one on the right.





And in my scale that's about as small as I can see!




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 Posted: Sun Jun 2nd, 2019 04:45 am
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corv8
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Morning Doug,

Nice Pierce-Arrow body.... 
you really had to build it completely from scratch?? 
Much more stylish than the later bus bodies. 

The trailer mechanism isn't an option...
I guess it's not a real good performer, and it's tall and has the wrong wheelbase...
My idea would be a drive from a HO r/c truck, or a similar self propelled vehicle.
Today those things are dirt cheap...
I wonder how to control such a mechanism with DCC ?

Or a simple worm & gear arrangement and a gearhead motor.

However would like to find something I can drop in as a unit,
not having to design this from a blank sheet.

Gerold


- just shot two pictures in the Vienna morning sun: 












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 Posted: Sun Jun 2nd, 2019 11:39 am
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slateworks
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She may be an oldie but she's a goodie and no doubt the SPUD and DCC will make her a worthy addition to your fleet.

Regarding my Pierce Arrow body,
I used the hood from the Precision Craft unit, a modified cab from a Bachmann rail truck,
and the rest is entirely produced from styrene sheet, rod and brass wire.

This was secured to the original Precision Craft tractor chassis,
after that had been submitted to the saw, file and other tools of destruction, to reduce its size in some areas.

The passenger trailer body was rebuilt using styrene sheet and Archer's rivets, as a freight unit to complete the exercise.
I have to say that with its factory installed LOKSound V3 Goose sound file decoder it is one of the most powerful units in Updah's fleet,
a pleasant surprise as I had little or no knowledge of the Precision Craft models prior to this.

Regarding your Pierce Arrow,
I guess the stumbling block is HOn3 and its 10.5mm gauge.
Whether any of the many HO/OO power bogies available could be re-gauged satisfactorily is an issue,
and the height of many where the motor has to sit on top is another.
Your RC car idea might be fruitful but again, the DCC paraphernalia will require a "shed" on the flatbed to house it.

There are of course cottage industry manufacturers who design and make motor bogies such as Mark Clark in the UK.

https://www.locosnstuff.com/Motor-Bogie-and-Chassis-kits.php

But you may well be able to do that yourself.
Whatever, I'll be very interested to see how you get on with both these projects.




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 Posted: Sun Jun 2nd, 2019 06:24 pm
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corv8
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Doug,

Thanks for the link.... this is great stuff,
I have seen many useful things at reasonable prices.

I think I could build a drive using a small four wheel truck (N-gauge, with longer axles?)
with an geared motor in line with the trucks worm shaft,
IF I get a suitable truck, or the basic components.

Also fascinating, the different locos shown with outside frame and flycranks.
Maybe components may fit my incomplete Westside D&RGW #50.


Gerold


BTW, you may remember the story of the Heisler railtruck.... 
the Pierce Chassis might work like this,
but back then I HAD suitable trucks.

http://freerails.com/view_topic.php?id=8282&forum_id=46




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 Posted: Sun Jun 2nd, 2019 10:54 pm
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slateworks
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Yes Gerold,

I remember it now you've reminded me,
and it's made me look again at photos of your Pierce chassis.
I notice that it looks to be articulated at the back of the cab under the overhang,
so the flatbed and its chassis could be a separate unit. 

I can't quite visualise the size of the parts you are dealing with,
obviously considerably smaller than my On30 units.
But there must be a reliable and adaptable motor bogie out there that you could use,
and perhaps stretch the flatbed chassis, and rebuild it as a box freight configuration,
along the lines of the No.2 Goose, for more room to install DCC parts,
and even a taller motor unit.

It wouldn't conform to any of the prototypes,
as your No.6 cab shape is I think unique to the flatbed,
but it could make an interesting"variant".




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