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Fairfield Brooklyn 'Laconia' Streetcar
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 Posted: Wed Jun 12th, 2019 06:25 am
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corv8
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Working just now on two turn of the century streetcars. 

One is an Fairfield / Model Traction Systems car,
that came complete and with the patina of many decades.

It had a weird drive arrangement with an oversize motor mounted at an angle,
driving one axle of one of the Brill type 45  'Maximum Traction' trucks.





Gave it a try to keep the single axle drive...

Found a nondescript can motor that exactly fits in the opening of the floor.

The crude worm drive could be arranged to fit the new orientation of the motor shaft,
and was connected with a short piece of silicone tube.

This gives me a free view through the interior. 





First test run was a disaster,
as insulating discs were missing on two axles,
and one of the idler axles was put into its truck wrong.

With this corrected, everything went ok,
however the old brass wheels hadn't the best contact to the rails.

Added my standard nickel-silver pickup wipers to the inside of the insulated wheels.

Haven't the body here right now, but with a suitable weight,
the traction of the single axle is sufficient to move the thing.

 



Glued small polystyrene blocks to the inside of the sideframes,
formed wipers from wire,
and melted them into the blocks with a soldering gun.

Quick + dirty way to attach them - gluing wires under tension is a frustrating job. 

(I am aware it would be nicer to use small pieces of circuit board, and solder the wires to it,
but  the soldering gun job works well for me) 




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 Posted: Wed Jun 26th, 2019 05:53 pm
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corv8
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Body has been painted last weekend...

Had no really good idea for a color scheme,
so I pirated the one of the Bemis Street Ry. of the late Norton D.Clark.

Motor is hard to control...
It often first doesn't accelerate as I would expect,
then picks up speed and races away.

Have to try to adjust decoder settings.
Hope the motor is suitable for operation in the DCC environment...
Have no idea where it came from; it just fits nicely.

L:

Have drilled out the headlight castings, 3mm LEDs fit nicely.

Now for glazing and lettering!





Gerold




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 Posted: Wed Jun 26th, 2019 06:03 pm
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slateworks
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Nice paint job Gerold.

What preparation was needed on the brass to get the paint to adhere and flow so smoothly?




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 Posted: Wed Jun 26th, 2019 06:56 pm
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corv8
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Big secret, don't tell anybody,
or I will be kicked out of all model RR forums....

Base coat is pro quality automotive primer from a rattle can (light gray),
then I spray the body yellow, with our local brand automotive rattle can
(Dupli Color, which I consider premium quality).
This gives a not-so nice "pure" yellow color.

Now I give it a second, thin coat of yellow/orange,
on the still wet yellow surface, to tone it down.
Apparently this has the additional benefit to give the surface a satin sheen,
just enough to avoid the "wet" look of a new carbody.

The white window band is Revell, solvent based. 

This gives me something that comes very close to UP Armor yellow...
Better than all commercial available RR paints.
As I like this color,
I often paint equipment which I letter for my various private lines this way.

Gerold




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 Posted: Wed Jun 26th, 2019 09:57 pm
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slateworks
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Thanks Gerold and I'm another fan of automotive rattle can paints here.





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 Posted: Wed Jun 26th, 2019 11:55 pm
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Lee B
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I have had good success with rattle cans as well.

Great work! I have always had a soft spot for modelling trolleys.





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 Posted: Thu Jul 4th, 2019 07:45 am
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corv8
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I now introduce a second similar car, as I work on both simultaneously - besides dozens of other projects.

It's a Fairfield model too, a Boston open platform double trucker I got as an orphan shell.





Found a NOS "Maximum Traction" drive set by (new) MTS which I bought from Joel Lovich himself long ago.

Intended to build a Pacific Electric "Dragon" then... Until I discovered they are available RTR at a decent price.

Anyway, had to fabricate a 3/4 floor to hold motor + trucks... ahh all this tiny stuff, with my big fingers and bad eyes.





Now I have drilled out the headlights and I am in the process of installing micro LEDs, with wires already soldered to them.

 
Gerold




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 Posted: Thu Jul 4th, 2019 11:34 am
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slateworks
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It's amazing how fingers get bigger and eyes get badder the older we become.

That's a very attractive body style and the trucks look good too.



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 Posted: Thu Jul 4th, 2019 07:30 pm
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corv8
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Doug,

Not amazing... dramatic!

Despite those growing handicaps, I have fiddled with those pesky little Micro LEDs...
fortunately I can buy them with wires already soldered to them.
First obstacle avoided.

The car had solid headlights, drilled through and found the trolley controller(s) behind them.
So no conventional LED would fit.

Pic. shows LED centered in the headlight, secured with a big drop of transparent glue.
Wires are secured to body so they wont cause the LED to shift before glue has set. 





Next pic. shows holes drilled through platform floor.
Will route wires down, then attach tiny connectors under the platform. 





Gerold




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 Posted: Sun Jul 7th, 2019 02:58 pm
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corv8
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(Nearly) finished both....

Have misplaced the decals I have printed twenty years ago....
So now they have to wait for some weeks until we may print a new sheet.

Messed up all the LED wires I mentioned in my previous message....

Those clumsy connectors were too much for the tiny wires,
had to first solder plain plastic insulated wires to them,
then glue the connectors to the platform underside,
and solder the lacquer insulated wires to the plain ones.

A learning process....
I need six LEDs to finish two headlights.





Added glazing.
Green glass in the clerestory windows, sunshades behind the side windows,
some paint touch up here and there.

A drop of translucent yellow on the headlights....












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