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corv8
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Working just now on two turn of the century streetcars. 

One is an Fairfield / Model Traction Systems car,
that came complete and with the patina of many decades.

It had a weird drive arrangement with an oversize motor mounted at an angle,
driving one axle of one of the Brill type 45  'Maximum Traction' trucks.





Gave it a try to keep the single axle drive...

Found a nondescript can motor that exactly fits in the opening of the floor.

The crude worm drive could be arranged to fit the new orientation of the motor shaft,
and was connected with a short piece of silicone tube.

This gives me a free view through the interior. 





First test run was a disaster,
as insulating discs were missing on two axles,
and one of the idler axles was put into its truck wrong.

With this corrected, everything went ok,
however the old brass wheels hadn't the best contact to the rails.

Added my standard nickel-silver pickup wipers to the inside of the insulated wheels.

Haven't the body here right now, but with a suitable weight,
the traction of the single axle is sufficient to move the thing.

 



Glued small polystyrene blocks to the inside of the sideframes,
formed wipers from wire,
and melted them into the blocks with a soldering gun.

Quick + dirty way to attach them - gluing wires under tension is a frustrating job. 

(I am aware it would be nicer to use small pieces of circuit board, and solder the wires to it,
but  the soldering gun job works well for me) 


corv8
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Body has been painted last weekend...

Had no really good idea for a color scheme,
so I pirated the one of the Bemis Street Ry. of the late Norton D.Clark.

Motor is hard to control...
It often first doesn't accelerate as I would expect,
then picks up speed and races away.

Have to try to adjust decoder settings.
Hope the motor is suitable for operation in the DCC environment...
Have no idea where it came from; it just fits nicely.

L:

Have drilled out the headlight castings, 3mm LEDs fit nicely.

Now for glazing and lettering!





Gerold


corv8
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Big secret, don't tell anybody,
or I will be kicked out of all model RR forums....

Base coat is pro quality automotive primer from a rattle can (light gray),
then I spray the body yellow, with our local brand automotive rattle can
(Dupli Color, which I consider premium quality).
This gives a not-so nice "pure" yellow color.

Now I give it a second, thin coat of yellow/orange,
on the still wet yellow surface, to tone it down.
Apparently this has the additional benefit to give the surface a satin sheen,
just enough to avoid the "wet" look of a new carbody.

The white window band is Revell, solvent based. 

This gives me something that comes very close to UP Armor yellow...
Better than all commercial available RR paints.
As I like this color,
I often paint equipment which I letter for my various private lines this way.

Gerold


Lee B
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I have had good success with rattle cans as well.

Great work! I have always had a soft spot for modelling trolleys.



corv8
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I now introduce a second similar car, as I work on both simultaneously - besides dozens of other projects.

It's a Fairfield model too, a Boston open platform double trucker I got as an orphan shell.





Found a NOS "Maximum Traction" drive set by (new) MTS which I bought from Joel Lovich himself long ago.

Intended to build a Pacific Electric "Dragon" then... Until I discovered they are available RTR at a decent price.

Anyway, had to fabricate a 3/4 floor to hold motor + trucks... ahh all this tiny stuff, with my big fingers and bad eyes.





Now I have drilled out the headlights and I am in the process of installing micro LEDs, with wires already soldered to them.

 
Gerold


corv8
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I have fiddled with those pesky little Micro LEDs...
fortunately I can buy them with wires already soldered to them.
First obstacle avoided.

The car had solid headlights, drilled through and found the trolley controller(s) behind them.
So no conventional LED would fit.

Pic. shows LED centered in the headlight, secured with a big drop of transparent glue.
Wires are secured to body so they wont cause the LED to shift before glue has set. 





Next pic. shows holes drilled through platform floor.
Will route wires down, then attach tiny connectors under the platform. 





Gerold


corv8
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(Nearly) finished both....

Have misplaced the decals I have printed twenty years ago....
So now they have to wait for some weeks until we may print a new sheet.

Messed up all the LED wires I mentioned in my previous message....

Those clumsy connectors were too much for the tiny wires,
had to first solder plain plastic insulated wires to them,
then glue the connectors to the platform underside,
and solder the lacquer insulated wires to the plain ones.

A learning process....
I need six LEDs to finish two headlights.





Added glazing.
Green glass in the clerestory windows, sunshades behind the side windows,
some paint touch up here and there.

A drop of translucent yellow on the headlights....










slateworks
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Gerold, for connectors you might find these useful, especially with LED magnet wires needing connection.


https://www.dccconcepts.com/product/micro-harness-set-one-2-4-6-8-way/





I've used them on several locos and rolling stock and they work well.
You will see that they're available in 2, 4, 6 and 8 wire options, or a selection pack of each.


corv8
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Doug,

They look good for loco - tender connections.
(Maybe that's even the stuff manufacturers use for their sound locos).
Thanks for the link!

The limit for me is now no longer the size available,
but that I have to be able to SEE them...

I have really tiny ones too,
but handling them is so difficult that I avoid them if possible.


BTW

My standard size connectors have a pin to pin (center) distance of 5mm,
like an 8 pin decoder harness. 

Do you know the respective size of those sold by dccconcepts?


Si.
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Hi Gerold  :wave:



I hope things are going well.  :thumb:  ???



The streetcars look fantastic out in the sun, on your trestle !  :cool:  :s:




You have 'the knack' for understated, yet stunning, paint jobs ...  :old dude:

... really nice colours on those cars & all your other work of course.  :)



:moose: :moose: :moose: :moose: :moose:



Si.


corv8
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Si, thanks for the praise...

Haven't posted for a while.... summer distractions...
and, I have started half a dozen projects simultaneously.

With the predictable result of little progress, great confusion and frustration....
Will start new threads so you will be entertained.

In the works,
a scratchbuilt 4-4-4-4 + 4-4-4-4 electric motor, similar to the Virginian EL-2B's,
a trolley shop switcher,
and two Frank Schlegel Interurbans...
and more.


corv8
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Two more old trolleys on the workbench...

One, apparently the little brother of the Boston open Platform car,
but sold by UMPCO long ago.  





Open-frame motor which drives one axle only....
Sure disaster....
Replaced it with an Tenshodo SPUD.

Wheelbase is off two milimeters, and wheels are too large....
But it runs fine on DCC. 
Will paint it Armor yellow too. 





corv8
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Second one...  NJ Custom Brass 'Metropolitan Street Ry single trucker' ...

This one drove me crazy, wasted three tiny LEDs ...

It also got a Tenshodo SPUD.





slateworks
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Good that you can get the SPUDs to work well Gerold.
 

Something I failed with abysmally, even on DCC,

and ended up using NWSL Stanton Drives, which are super runners.


corv8
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Doug,

Never had any problems with them,
except for split gears now and then.

However, I don't operate my models much.

I am more the tinkerer than operator,
and when a model is finished and through its trials,
it may rest for years, or forever, in the display cabinet....

So I don't know how long they would last in actual operation.
What problems did you encounter?

PSC sold a different type of SPUD,
metal body, variable wheelbase (GREAT),
those didn't work well for me from the beginning.


Si.
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Hi Gerold  :wave:



Both beautiful  [whack]  [whack]  as usual !  :P





:pimp:





I was reading some blurb about Spuds & Drives awhile back.  :old dude:


Conclusion seemed to be ...  L:

... as long as you don't try putting one in a huge Large Scale Gn15 loco ...

... & then expect it to pull a dozen V-tippers without blinkin' (or BURNIN' !)...  :shocked:

... you'll probably be OK, with a little weight on top & sensible loads to pull. 



In the case of a Street Car, probably ideal ... Bit of brass for weight & no load to pull.

After all, they are kinda really intended for 'passenger car' kinda trains, right ?  :P



:moose: :moose: :moose: :moose: :moose:



Si.


corv8
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Si.

Discussed this with Doug....
He told he never had luck with those.

But he seems to be an OPERATOR, while I am more of the tinkerer,
who looses interest when the thing has accomplished the trial runs.

So I never have operated any spud for extended time....
Wonder how long they would last?

Anyway, here is the last streetcar I converted.

Avoided these pesky SMDs, and installed 2mm "tower" LEDs....
They may be noticed on the inside of the dash, but I will live with them.










And here, the SPUD and some sloppy wiring.






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