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Too Tight 'JST-RCY' Connectors
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 Posted: Wed Jun 12th, 2019 06:03 pm
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Hal Pridgen
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Hello,

I’m using 2s Li-Po batteries in my converted RC locomotives,
and was using the thought pattern of “I’ll just unplug it”. 

That aspect isn’t working so well.  :Crazy:

I’ve tried sanding down the plug some,
but it’s still tight. 

I’ll eventually cause some damage to my toys,
and make a large contribution to the cussing jar #f@s€¥§s#!

Anybody had success in getting these things to easily un-couple,
without destroying its electrical integrity?


Attachment: D75DBC58-6A7A-46DB-AFD5-B0044DDC522E.jpeg (Downloaded 93 times)



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 Posted: Wed Jun 12th, 2019 09:51 pm
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W C Greene
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Unplugging looks good but is not the best way to "turn off" a battery.
Why not use a SPST (on/off) switch?
That would seem (to me) as a logical way to turn off the receiver.
Who else has an idea on this?

Woodie




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 Posted: Wed Jun 12th, 2019 10:18 pm
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Hal Pridgen
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On this engine there is a touch switch mounted in the roof of the cab that turns the unit on/off,
and the top of the tender comes off easily to access the charging pigtail.

So it's not a huge problem until I want to swap batteries,
and even less so since the engine will run a really long time.

But I am working on a third engine and was thinking of skipping the switch.

And even with a switch and infrequent change outs,
I still see a potential flying loco in my future,
while trying to separate the two connectors.




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 Posted: Wed Jun 12th, 2019 10:21 pm
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Rod Hutchinson
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I don't use these commercial plugs. 
Given the current draw they are not needed.

You can make up something simpler from PCB header pins,
which plug in / out easily and are physically smaller.  




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 Posted: Wed Jun 12th, 2019 11:01 pm
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Tony Walsham
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I found some quite small in line connectors on line.





The problem is, they too are hard to get apart once plugged together. 

The wires will pull out if you are not careful.




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 Posted: Thu Jun 13th, 2019 07:23 am
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fallen
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Some of the JST connectors have a little "pip" on the part that goes into the other part
(never sure which is the plug and which the socket with these!).

If Tony's photo above shows the front of the connector,
then it's the top bit, and the pip is on the back.

This pip makes the connector click into position and holds it in,
but if you shave the pip off with a sharp knife, then it is much easier to unplug.

Frank


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 Posted: Thu Jun 13th, 2019 07:25 am
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davecttr
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These connectors often have small 'pips' moulded in the sides of the plug,
and sometimes in the socket.
They make it difficult to remove the plug, because that is their purpose,
probably in a high vibration model plane environment.

I cut the 'pips' off with a scalpel on my UM single cell Li-Pos.


I don't use a switch either, as my batteries are charged off model,
and only need to last one operating session.

The PCB pins and sockets are good,
as long as there is no chance of plugging them in the wrong way round!




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 Posted: Thu Jun 13th, 2019 07:27 am
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fallen
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Snap!

Frank

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 Posted: Thu Jun 13th, 2019 10:27 am
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davecttr
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'Pipped' at the post !



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 Posted: Thu Jun 13th, 2019 11:40 am
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Hal Pridgen
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Rod Hutchinson wrote:
You can make up something simpler from PCB header pins,
which plug in / out easily and are physically smaller.  


Since I have some of these and a crimper, I may give this a try. 

But as was mentioned, correct polarity depends on me, which is scary.

And the thought of sparking those high current wires, as I’m doing the swap, is scary as well.

O.n.e  W.i.r.e  a.t  a  t.i.m.e




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