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Removing 'N.W.S.L.' Stanton Drive Mount Screw
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 Posted: Sun Nov 17th, 2019 07:42 pm
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Eric T
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I FINALLY received my Stanton Drive.  (Ordered it in June)

Since my plan is to mount a camera on top, the threaded shaft up there is in the way.

Is there a way to remove the shaft without damaging it or the drive unit,
in case I ever decide to re-purpose the drive and have a need for the shaft?



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 Posted: Sun Nov 24th, 2019 08:52 pm
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Si.
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Hi Eric  :wave:



Any luck with the N.W.S.L. Stanton Drive ?  L:  ???


They look pretty  C :cool: :cool: L  and folks seem to do a lot of different things with them !  :dt:  :brill:


I wouldn't mind having one myself ...

... had a look in Walthers, trouble is, their stuff + U.K. shipping . . .  :f: $ $ $





People seem to be able to take them apart & even add longer axles, for wider gauges, I saw.  :shocked:

So my guess is, that the center screw is easily removable ... If you can get inside the casing.  L:





Does yours run OK ?  :old dude:



:moose:



Si.




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 Posted: Mon Nov 25th, 2019 06:43 am
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corv8
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Si. wrote:
I wouldn't mind having one myself ...

... had a look in Walthers, trouble is, their stuff + U.K. shipping . . .  :f: $ $ $


Si,

Had everything shipped directly from NWSL (to Austria),
mail order worked perfectly all the time.

I remember when they were still under original ownership in Seattle,
I often received items after four days....

We joked, surely somebody drove to Seattle airport,
and handled over my package to the next airline pilot who departed to Europe.




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 Posted: Mon Nov 25th, 2019 04:35 pm
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Eric T
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Hi guys,

The drive works wonderfully and will be easy to convert to DCC.

I asked NWSL about removing the screw,
and they advised I send it in to be redone, so it will stay in warranty.

The trouble is that I don't know if it would be returned in time,
to run at my club's show in January. 

If I don't hear back soon enough,
I'll just tape over the holes and cut/grind the thing off.


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 Posted: Mon Nov 25th, 2019 05:50 pm
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slateworks
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I'd be tempted to ask NWSL if it's bonded into the plastic body or just a threaded rod fit.
If the latter, I'd grip the body sides in a vise and use the two nuts locked together to wind the rod out.
But that's just me!

I agree that the unit is a great runner and an easy DCC set up as I found in Updah's crew car build,
where it was given a Loksound Goose sound file decoder and a sugar cube speaker. 

https://youtu.be/YFg1c0N0HI8

The creaking, by the way, is my less than smooth camera pivot, not the mechanism!




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 Posted: Mon Nov 25th, 2019 05:57 pm
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Eric T
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slateworks wrote:
I'd be tempted to ask NWSL if it's bonded into the plastic body or just a threaded rod fit.
If the latter, I'd grip the body sides in a vise and use the two nuts locked together to wind the rod out.
But that's just me!


Are you sure? 
The two nuts didn't seem to be locked to me.

It's a good question though,
I'll ask them depending on how and when they respond.


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 Posted: Mon Nov 25th, 2019 06:12 pm
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W C Greene
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I am not familiar with this power truck but just maybe I see what to do here.
Check the bottom keeper, the part that holds the wheels on, and see if there are screws holding the keeper on.
If so, CAREFULLY remove them and remove the keeper (bottom plate), then carefully take out the wheel sets,
watch out for the contacts that must touch the wheels-don't mess them up.
Then possibly the motor can be removed from the unit and then you might see the head of the "threaded rod"-a screw.
Carefully unscrew it from the nuts on top of the truck and it should drop out.
Then (I suppose) you would have the rod out and you could do whatever you want from then on.
Once again, I have no experience with this particular truck,
but it appears, to me at least, that this could be the method to open it up.
Then be very CAREFUL to re-install the parts-the pickups would be the most delicate things here.
Sometimes you have to just try something, after all it ain't brain surgery.

Woodie




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 Posted: Mon Nov 25th, 2019 07:18 pm
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slateworks
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The nuts don't hold the rod in place Woodie, they're there to provide a pivot fix.

The threaded rod is a "solid" fit in the plastic body,
but of course there could be a bolt head embedded in the plastic.


Eric, the nuts aren't locked as it comes,
but tightening them up together and then using a small wrench on the one nearest the body,
should provide leverage to turn the threaded rod - if it can be turned at all of course.

A third nut added to the other two might help them to be secured to the rod.




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