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pmkramer
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There's a new system being advertised by MRC,
which I believe uses a NMRA 8 pin connector.

I also believe they are going to offer HO locomotives with it installed.

http://www.modelrectifier.com/genieproducts/locogenie.asp

I'm interested in hearing more.


davecttr
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Looks like it could have some potential !

A loco that will operate on DC, battery, AC and DCC,
from either a DC controller, radio controller or DCC controller.
Plus generic sound.

It appears that the radio throttle is sending DCC compatible commands,
and if you use DC/battery the loco auto senses the change.

One issue might be the mention that each loco needs its own transmitter,
and you can have up to 4 locos.

This suggests they are using 4 different radio frequencies,
which might not be in the 2.4GHz band.


W C Greene
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It appears that all these products are "out of stock"... So  ???

And just 4 freqs, heck, my ancient 27MHz AM equipment has 8 freqs.

Well, maybe it will get going.

Woodie


pmkramer
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TRAINWORLD's website has the Plymouth diesel and 0-4-0 tank in stock,
and they retail for $65.

RTR on DCC, DC, or AC rails with sound.

Maybe they'll realize how attractive a built in battery would be.

I have learned from MRC,
you will not be able to use other 2.4 GHz transmitters to control them.





I think it's good news of what may be coming down the pipe.
 
It can only encourage competition from other manufacturers.


Patrick


pmkramer
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Loco Genie is 2.4 GHz but apparently cannot be controlled by non proprietary transmitters.

What interests me most about the Loco Genie is that it has sound !!  :)





I think it's hard not to argue that RC and RTR locomotives like this, is good for the hobby in general.



wv railbaron
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I have used the MRC systems.

I now have the new 'Loco Genie' that is for the light steam and the heavy steam versions.





I paid 52 dollars for each.

I have plans to use these in conversions in a MTH O-scale Porter.

This will be a 3-rail to 2-rail conversion.

These units are very small and operate with only 7.4 Volts.


wv railbaron
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I have installed the version that is in the HO loco, in some On30 440s.
They worked very well.

I tweaked the systems using DCC to adjust individual functions,
because they were programmed for the small locos they were in.

This version is a 2.4 GHz version used in those locos.

I kitbashed one of the engines to On30 and put the battery in a tender.
This allowed me to use existing lights and chuff matching wheel size.

This is merely a 2 wire hook up.
These cheap engines run very slow and the cost is low.

Steve


W C Greene
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This is very good news...
a DCC style board which can run off batteries.
Now yer' talkin'...

Woodie


wv railbaron
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I installed the diesel version of the MRC Genie in both a S scale unit and a O scale speeder,
and they functioned as advertised.

A friend installed the steam version in a Rex S scale engine,
I could not believe how well it sounded.

These were powered by 7.4v batteries,
or in the S scale a Pololu 12v step up was added because of space.

The cost of these units were less than 60 dollars.
They are the Best Buy in the R.C. market !


wv railbaron
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Be aware that this system is only rated for 1.5 amp so G scale may draw too much current.

Basher
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Hi to all.

I have an American Models RS-3 that I converted to R.C. a few years ago,
with a MRC Loco Genie system using a 9V battery for power.

I have been very pleased with its performance.
I have been searching for the steam version of this for two years & no success.

This week I found the steam versions at Tower Hobbies.
Universal Steam Heavy is # 021501, Universal Steam Light is # 021500.

You get a Receiver, Transmitter, Speaker and user guide.
2.4 GHz system with about 70 ft. of operational range.

If you want to start in R.C. railroading give this system a try.
Find a place to put a battery and you are good to go.

I will try to post photos in the coming week.


Cor V
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Just found this site: 

https://www.modelrectifier.com/locogenie-s/125.htmlooks

A winner to me. 

Anybody seen these or used them?

Cor


pmkramer
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I finally bought some of the Loco Genie locomotives offered by Model Power,
so I could play around with the system. 



Here's a Model Power 0-4-0 that I've been working on.
I used the Loco Genie out of the 0-4-0 Dockside.

The battery is an 3.7 v 18350 which are commonly used in vaporizers.
I'm using a Pololu 12v regulator to step the voltage up.

I wanted to convert the dockside,
but couldn't figure out how to get everything in there but will work on it.

So far very happy with how everything is working.
These are the first DCC or sound equipped locomotives that I've ever had,
and really like having sound.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=pczPtr0jWow

Here the Model Power Plymouth diesel that I've converted.

This was easy and had it running on battery quickly,
as all I had to do was cut the wires to the wipers and run wires to a trailing car.

By the way, I learned these diesels are oversized and might work well for On30.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=Ls68ryvYxQs


tebee
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MRC have introduced the Loco Genie 

https://www.modelrectifier.com/locogenie-s/125.htm

This would appear to be a DCC sound chip,
with an added 2.4MHz RC receiver and a handheld transmitter.

It's capable of running off DCC or DC track supply,
but I assume is also going to work quite happily off on board batteries,
as it doesn't rely on the track for control.
(although this is an option with DCC)

It's about $80 list,
but already the diesel version is on eBay for half that,
so not too expensive.  

Has anyone tried it yet or got any more knowledge of it?
 
The manual is a bit sparse on details.


Tom 


Nice Guy Eddie
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I have merged a number of older threads onto this topic

I also removed a fair number of totally way off topic posts

It would be good to have only Loco Genie discussed here


:f:


Eddie


Michael M
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This Loco Genie looks interesting.  Would like to hear if anyone else has given this a try.

Si.
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Hi Michael  :wave:



Like a total Muppet  [whack]  I missed an ACE auction for one on eBay.  :f:



I don't think that many people over The Pond know what 'Loco Genie' is.  ???

Possibly cos it doesn't come installed in an 0-4-0 G.W.R. Pannier Tank !  ;)


An old modelling friend of mine scored one a while back ... :old dude:

... & installed it in a small SM32 battery loco, for outdoor use.



He was over the moon with it !  :bg:
Top notch radio control ... straightforward functional transmitter ... & great sound !  :brill:



I'm gonna get one to install in one of my 1:35n2 scratchbuilds ...

... just need to find another HOT auction on eBay ... No rush, a lot to do here.  :time: :slow::dt:



It comes highly recommended ... with both ***** 5-Star value & quality, plus ease of use.  :thumb:



:moose: :moose: :moose: :moose: :moose:



Si.


Si.
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:old dude:  For anyone wanting to try out  :dt:  installing Radio Control  :brill:  in their 1st train ...

... as Woodie  :cb:  has always said :-


" You don't need rocket appliances "

Or was that Ricky  :dope:  from Trailer Park Boys ?  ???

Anyway, one thing is for sure, you certainly DON'T need to be a Rocket Scientist ...  :brill:

... to get your 1st Radio Controlled train up & running on the rails !




Fortunately since Radio Controlled trains aren't Rocket Science ...  :brill:

... there's no gravity to overcome & also no overwhelming paperwork either !  :boogie:



Contrary to what you might think, or have read ...  L:

... you won't be needing this either ...  :us:





:old dude:  You might well have been told in hobby shops, or read about peoples big budgets, somewhere ...

... that you need pricey $100 Dollar battery-chargers & expensive $$$ 'Name Brand' batteries.  :f:


This is absolutely NOT the case at all.





For my 1st Radio Control experiments, I bought this $2.00c inc. P&P battery-charger on eBay ...

... & also paid the extortionate sum each  ;)  of about $1.50c inc. P&P for suitable Li-Po batteries.


This nice simple & compact battery-charger comes with a cable which plugs into any USB power socket ...

... & as you can see, can easily trickle-charge a number of individual batteries at once.  :!:


There are many many long rambling discussions about the merits of various batteries in the R.C. Forum ...  :time:

... so it probably isn't worth a very long & tedious elaboration about the subject here.  :y:


The simple point being, that it IS that simple & it DOESN'T need a NASA sized budget either !  :shades:


Have a look on 'eBay Worldwide' & just search 'Li-Po Battery' & 'Battery Charger' ... CHEAPEST FIRST !



:cool:



Si.


Michael M
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My 'Loco Genie' just showed up in the mail!


The main IC part is about 1.5" by 3/4"
 
Much smaller than I anticipated.

This should be so much easier to install.


Oh, goodie! 

Something new to play with!


The instructions say that the motor needs to be isolated from the frame.

How can you tell if the motor is isolated?


Michael M
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'trainsetsonly.com' has some in stock. 

#021500 Light Steam - $37.86 plus postage.



Michael M
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Working on the On30 2-6-0. 

Got the oil bunker almost done...waiting for a filler hatch. 

Trying to figure out how to isolate the motor. 

Waiting for the Genie to show up in the mail. 

Plenty of room in the tender for installation.


W C Greene
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Michael

To isolate the motor, you need to take it out of the chassis,
then cut off the brass strips that run under the brushes.
Leave a little "soldering room" on them.

Solder the motor leads to what's left of the brass strips and then re-install the motor,
with a bit of electrical tape stuck between the bottom of the motor and the metal frame.
Then the motor should be isolated.

I am interested in this since it is a sound board/receiver.

I know that it should work on battery power,
and since it can handle DCC track voltages and a DC power pack,
then it can certainly handle a 7.4 or 11.1 volt Li-Po battery.

I am watching this.
Just be careful and it should work "as advertised".

Woodie


Michael M
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Just trying to figure out how to get the motor out,

without taking everything else apart.


Found an exploded view of the 2-6-0,

but it doesn't help much.


W C Greene
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Well, there are 1 or 2 small screws under the "board" in front of the motor,
they need to be taken out,
and then there's a Phillips screw behind the motor/worm to be taken out.

Then you should be able to lift the metal weight and motor out.

You do need to take stuff apart when you're modifying things.
It's also a great education-experience.
Tell us how it goes.

Woodie

*** the board is to bring track/wheel pickup to the motor.
I don't think you'll need that anyway!***


Michael M
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The motor is out!

There is a plastic retainer around the motor. 
Once I pried that off the motor lifts out.

I placed some .13mm styrene in where the motor sits,
to isolate it from the frame.

According to my multi-meter, there is no continuity,
so the motor should be isolated. 
Right?

It would be nice if I knew what I was doing.


W C Greene
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Sorry that I had some bad info for you...
It's been a while since I messed with one of the 2-6-0's.

Don't get old, your memory goes...
What?...

Yep.  It's now isolated.

Woodie


Michael M
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Woodie,

No harm done. 
At least I was able to get the motor out.


Was thinking of powering the headlight directly from the battery,
to remind me whether the engine was turned on or not.


Michael M
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I just couldn't wait.


I unplugged the receiver from #20 (the little diesel critter),

soldered on a connector to the motor terminals of the 2-6-0,

and fired it up. 


It works!


This is neat.


Nortonville Phil
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Woodie,

I got my mits on one of these Loco Genies.

I will bring it over for your inspection soon.


W C Greene
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Wow Phil...as we used to say..."Groovy!"
I am interested in it since it features steam sound and is BPRC.

After messing with DCC/Tsunami operations,
I am ready to go back to pulling the loco across the floor with a string!

I will still have silent running on my layout,
but the show circuit requires choo choo & ding ding...and loud, I might add.

Now back to the thread at hand.

Woodie


Michael M
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Does anyone know why the motor needs to be isolated?


I'll be installing the Loco Genie in a Bachmann On30 2-6-0,
over the next couple of days.

Looks to be fairly straight forward. 


Need to drill some holes in the tender floor for the speaker.


W C Greene
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Michael, the motor needs to be isolated to prevent possible shorts with wired track/wheel pickups.
If you are running on BPRC then the pickups on the loco need to be disabled.
There are many smart fellows here who could explain this better,
but getting rid of all track pickups is the way I have done it since I started down this trail.
I would think that just getting rid of the pickups would be the same as isolating the motor.

??? ??? ???

Woodie


Michael M
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Thanks Woodie,

The wheel pickups have been removed.


Here are some photos of what needs to go into the tender.










Please ignore the messy workbench. 

Just can't seem to keep it neat.


fallen
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Hi Michael

Watching this with interest.
I have not come across this unit in the UK, and it looks interesting.

On the pickups,
if you imagine putting the loco on a siding with the points (switch) set to the main line ie against the loco,
then the point blades will put a dead short across the running rails that the loco is standing on.

You really don't want the radio control unit to be trying to drive this short circuit,
as it won't last very long!

So you have to disconnect the pickups from the motor.

Frank


W C Greene
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And needless to say,
if you will be operating your locos only on your layout,
then you shouldn't have any track wiring.
Running on a club or individual's layout, then all track pickups are taken out.
If there's a short circuit on their layout, it won't be because of you!
I went through that long ago...electrical problems on other's layouts,
and some thought that my transmitter(s) were messing with their DCC stuff.
Nope, these problems were all due to misunderstanding r/c and maybe a bit of envy!!!

Woodie


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" Please ignore the messy workbench " 

" Just can't seem to keep it neat "


OK


There is a wooden top underneath all the stuff on mine

I seem to remember


:f:


Eddie


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W C Greene wrote:  
And needless to say, ..
If there's a short circuit on their layout, it won't be because of you!

Only when you remember to insulate your wheel centers properly.  :doh:


Michael M
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Loco Genie all wired up. 

Bit of a rats nest at the moment. 

I'll tidy things up,
when I install everything in the tender.


Yes, it works.
 
Well, except for the headlight...
I'll have to check my connections. 


Fairly basic controls, with bell, whistle, and chuff. 

The loco starts very slowly, so I need to adjust that,
so that the loco starts somewhat quicker.


The only major change here,
is using a 7.4 Volt Li-Po battery instead of track power.


Michael M
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I lost the sound. 

Disconnected the speaker and re-binded the throttle, and the engine ran fine.

Re-connected the speaker and still no sound.





Push the 'stop' and 'light' buttons simultaneously,
and the sound came back on.
 
Must of hit them accidentally somewhere before hand,
without knowing it and had turned off the sound.

The photo shows how small the controller/throttle really is. 
Gotta be careful when pushing one of the buttons.

Headlight still does not come on. 
Used my multimeter, I'm getting like 2-4 millivolts. 
Should be getting more than that.

With the engine sitting at a stop there is a compressor sound,
and an occasional blowdown sound. 

When braking there are squeaking brake noises. 
Not the best sound quality, but still kinda neat.


Michael M
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Life and work have been getting in the way and slowing down progress.





Getting the engine put back together. 

Boiler is back on the frame along with a new cab (minus roof),
and a new headlight.

The speaker in the tender is taking up more room than I anticipated,
and making things kind of tight. 

Should have everything done in the next couple of days,
if I can keep everyone out of my way.


Si.
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Hi Michael  :wave:



L :cool: :cool: KIN'   G :cool: :cool: D      :thumb:


I wonder what the sound is like through a regular Hi-Fi speaker ?  L:


The actual transducer & its implementation can vary massively.

The digital sound generated by these things is pretty standard.



:pimp:



Si.


Michael M
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Si.

The digital sound is pretty standard. 

Not bad, but not great. 
About average I would say. 
Still it's kind of neat to have sound.
 
But, I didn't really buy the Loco Genie for the sound,
but because it was small and fairly simple installation. 
Just needed to add battery for power.

I still see it as very affordable,
if you can find a Loco Genie at a discounted price. 
For the Genie plus battery I'm into it for about $55.

Hope to post some final photos real soon.


Michael M
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The battery and on-off switch is hidden under the oil bunker. 

The Loco Genie will continue to run as long as it has power. 

By installing a simple on-off switch, I don't have to disconnect the battery all the time.










Well, that's about it for installing the Loco Genie. 

Works well, and a fairly easy installation.

Now to run some trains.


Si.
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" About average I would say.
 
Still it's kind of neat to have sound "



Hi Michael  :wave:



As an 'audio guy' ...  :pimp:

... the first thing I'd do, out of curiosity ...  L:

... is to wire up the sound output, to some headphones and/or a 'regular' speaker.  :dt:

Just to check out, what it  REALLY  sounds like.  ???



The sound output on these should NEVER be connected to a Hi-Fi amp input directly ...  :f:  :td:

... but connecting the output to any 'regular' headphones or speaker is fine.  :)


Just for laughs, I'd try it through my DIY made 15" 'Eminence' Beta-15 !  :shocked: :shocked: :shocked: :shocked: :shocked:




The enclosure design makes ALL THE DIFFERENCE when it comes to sound quality.  :brill:


It is possible to find small speakers, used in laptop computers, quite cheaply.  :cool:

The enclosures are generally small & kinda flat, but make the most from a tiny speaker.


A styrene DIY mini enclosure is another experimental option.  L:

I gotta get me one o' these lil' babies & have a blast !  :pimp:



:moose:



Si.


Si.
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Some other possible speaker wiring schematics, which could be used.  :brill:

:java: :P

The basic single 8 Ohm speaker, wired in series, for an 8 Ohm load.  L:





Two 8 Ohm speakers, wired in series, for a 16 Ohm load, would reduce the volume output ...  :f:

... unless of course, both the cone areas were larger & more efficient.  :thumb:





Four 8 Ohm speakers wired in series/parallel ...

... for a 'regular' 8 Ohm load.  :)

(typical 'Marshall' 4x12" cabinet, as used by 'Spinal Tap')





And NOT ^^ RECOMMENDED, two 8 Ohm speakers wired in parallel ...  :td:

... for a 4 Ohm load, which would probably OVERLOAD ! the amplifier !  :shocked:



:dt:



Si.


Si.
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Hi Michael  :mex:


:cool: :cool: L  shot of the ol' No.7 Spot 'Genied' on your nice lookin' turntable.  :thumb:



:java::moose: :java::moose: :java::moose: :java::moose: :java::moose:



Si.


Si.
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Hi Michael  :mex:



How's she ^^ runnin' ?  ???


Any latest  'Loco Genie'  news ?  L:



:java: :moose: :dt:



Si.


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Si.


#7 is running just fine. 

Acceleration is slow (you can make adjustments to start up faster)
but I'm kind of liking it that way. 

By slowing things down it makes the layout seem larger,
and takes longer to get the job done.

Did find a few spots in the track work that #7 didn't care for.


I've got another 'Loco Genie' that will go in the Athearn SW1500. 
Starting on a new cab now.


Si.
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Hi Michael  :wave:


So you are generally impressed by the 'Loco Genie' sound,

Maybe a larger speaker as well for MAX effect



How is the handset ?

Does it fit OK in your hand & the buttons are good to use.


I have been offered a 'Small Steam', one inside a 'Model Power' loco,

It has a slightly different design of handset to yours.






I guess the battery lasts a fair amount of time on the transmitter ?

Cheapest I could find.  :bg:
 


:java::moose: :dt:


Si.


On your handset the buttons look layed out in a different way to mine ?





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Si.

The transmitter fits in my hand just fine. 
No trouble using the buttons. 

Haven't had to replace the batteries. 
I figure it should last as long as a TV remote. 

I prefer MRC's transmitter over the regular RC transmitter.

I'm installing another Loco Genie in an Athearn SW1500,
and I am pleased with the ease of installation and the compactness. 

I'm hoping more people will jump in BPRC by using the Loco Genie,
since they're made for HO locos. 

The only real issue is finding room for the batteries.


I would be interested to see how the one in the Model Power locos work. 


Si.
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Hi Michael  :wave:



Good to see your No.42 'Ward' Athearn SW conversion.  :thumb:

I have seen the photos Posted in several other Threads, but not here ?  ???



Was the M.R.C. 'Loco Genie' you used in your Mogul conversion, the 'Light Steam' version ?  L:


Also, I know you had a 'Bachmann' DCC controller/programmer (I think) ...  :brill:

... can you 'program' sounds & functions etc. on the 'Loco Genie', like a regular DCC decoder ? 



:java: :moose: :dt:



Si.


Michael M
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Si.

MRC has a diesel sound 'Loco Genie',
with prime movers: EMD 567, 645, 645E, 710, ALCO 244 & 539T.

You can do some very basic programming from the hand controller.


You can program the 'Loco Genie':

https://www.modelrectifier.com/v/vspfiles/resources/dcc/021700%20Loco%20Genie-Diesel.pdf

Not sure if you can program from Bachmann's EZ Command. 
I have one... just not sure where.


I frosted the windows and installed some figures,
to try and hide all the goodies crammed into the cab.

Looking at getting an Athearn S12 for my next 1:35n2 conversion. 
With the high hood, I should be able to get the 'Loco Genie' in under the hood.


Si.
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Hi Michael  :wave:


Can't find the other photos of your NEW loco No.42 now ?  ???


Except this nice one ...





Your take on 'semi-outdoor' railroadin' is a great inspiration for R.C. trains !  :thumb:


:java::mex: :dt:


Si.


Michael M
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I ran into a problem with the Loco Genie,
and was hoping someone here might have an answer.

I was trying to program a higher start voltage,
and now the unit only runs in reverse with no lights, horn or bell.


I can't figure out how to get it back to the default settings.

Any suggestions out there?


Michael M
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Sent off an email to MRC support,
and received an answer back the next day. 

Impressive response time.  :2t:


Their reply was:

"Press the X4 and headlight buttons, once, at the same time while in Program Mode.
If this does not work you can also use a DCC system to program CV 125 to a value of 1."


Well, that worked kind of. 
Now I'm not getting any response from the loco at all. 

Now what?


Michael M
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I emailed MRC support again and this is what I received:


"If you can get access to a DCC system,
then next step would be to perform the factory reset,
by programming CV 125 to a value of 1.

If that doesn't restore the decoder then it may need to be replaced.
Unfortunately the Loco Genie Diesel has been discontinued.
We no longer have them in stock."


I don't have access to a DCC system. 
Not sure where to go from here.


Disappointed that MRC has discontinued the diesel version.


Michael M
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In a desperate attempt to breathe life back into this Loco Genie,
I did a couple of re-binds (3 or 4...didn't really keep track). 


Well, that seems to have cleared up the problem,
and all functions are now working.

Don't think I'll hazard another attempt at trying to adjust the settings.  :brill:



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