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David Laughery
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Gn15 is modeling large scale (often 1:24) on 16.5mm gauge track. 

Since this track gauges scales out to about fifteen inches on a prototype railway,
we term these models as 'Gn15'

The joy of these models is that On30 or HO components can be used.





David Laughery
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Layouts can be as small or as large as desired. 

I prefer small, compact layouts,
but two of the members here on Freerails have beautiful, room-sized layouts. 

One of my layouts had a sea side, industrial theme.





David Laughery
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On30 track gives a good representation of narrow gauge rail and ties. 





David Laughery
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There are so many opportunities to explore in the world of Gn15.

No matter what your interest is in this wonderful hobby there is a world of fun in Gn15. 

I hope the other Gn15 modelers here will share their photos, too. 

Thanks for looking. 

Regards, Dave L.





Toeffelholm
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Many Gn15 guys use 0n30 track from the box as it is.

And I think it is not impossible, to make the illusion of a 15" track work, in 1:22.5 & 1:24

Personally I preferred to build track and trackbed myself, with some more technical reasonable size.















Juergen


Larry G
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I use Code-100 rail, for my Gn15 track, but it looks a bit small.

What size rail are you using ?

It looks larger than my Code-100.

Larry Gant


Toeffelholm
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Hi,


That's Peco code 143 flat bottom,

and would represent a rail height of about 80mm - 90mm in 1:22.5 or 1:24.


Peco Code-124 is also very fine, but it's bullhead profile,

and fixing with rail spikes was easier with the flat bottom rail.


Juergen


Larry G
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Unfortunately, all my track is finished.

Code-100 rail is easy to find in the U.S. so that's what I went with.

Also, I had 16 PECO turnouts (points) on hand in Code-100.


Your track does look able to carry heavy loads.

I like all the foliage along your right of way too.


Larry





David Laughery
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Gn15 can combine HO components with scratch building superstructures.  Regards, Dave L.



David Laughery
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What about a small, steam critter using an HO Dockside loco?  Dave L.  



David Laughery
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Diesels can be used to make nicely running motive power in Gn15.  Dave L.



David Laughery
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Here is a scene from my small industrial Gn15 layout under construction.  regards, Dave L. 



Larry G
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If you're modeling a narrow gauge tramway a prototype for just about anything can be found.

Here is a prototype for Daves proposed diesel. Large cab and low, long hood.

Larry G




David Laughery
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Thanks, Larry.

Many nice running diesel models can be made from HO mechanisms. 

Dave L. 





Larry G
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As can be seen in Dave's layout photos, Gn15 trains can negotiate some very small radius curves.

In fact, 4 wheel locos and cars can make it around curves as sharp as 6" radius.

Of course, if you have the room, wider curves are preferable.


On my Appetite Mine layout the minimum radius is 8.5"
 
This shot shows a 8.5" radius curve at the Bradly Shaft, Appetite Mine.

Larry G





David Laughery
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Laying out your track plan full size will show how "do-able"the plan really is. 

Gn15 can use very tight curves, as Larry has pointed out,

and photo copied turnouts (points) help getting curves in the correct orientation. 

Dave L.





David Laughery
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Gn15 locos can use just about any HO or On30 mechanism. 

Here an old Athearn Lil' Hustler was converted to Gn15.





David Laughery
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An On30 Bachmann Porter was used for this little steamer.

 



David Laughery
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This Gn15 crew is ready to start the day's operations.  Dave L.



David Laughery
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I find that some On30 rolling stock is appropriately sized for use on my Gn15 layout.

Dave L.





David Laughery
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Many HO cars can be easily adapted to Gn15. 

These HO gondolas were widened with plastic strips and became Gn15. 

Dave L. 





David Laughery
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I've enjoyed sharing my interest in Gn15 with you. 

I hope some of you will try out this interesting combination,
of 16.5mm track and HO or On30 components 
(and add your thoughts and photos, too).  

To see what others are doing in Gn15,
check out the threads by  Larry G,  Bob R, and me.

I'll end with a "what if". 

What if a geared HO or On30 loco was converted in to Gn15? 

Best regards, Dave L. 





Larry G
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Gn15, 4 wheel cars, are actually smaller than HO cars, as seen in this photo.

A "long" Gn15 train (4/5 cars) is about the same length as two HO box cars.

Larry G





David Laughery
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Larry is correct. 

The space required for Gn15 is often less,
than the space needed for smaller scales like HO or O scale.  

Regards, Dave L.


David Laughery
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Some modelers choose 1:24 when working in Gn15. 

This makes possible having model vehicles and even some doll house items available.

This was a re-painted, promotional bank sized for Gn15. 

Dave L.





David Laughery
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From time to time I'd like to add photos of some of my projects in Gn15. 

Thanks for looking.

Regards, Dave L. 


David Laughery
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I like Bachmann's On30 rolling stock to use as Gn15 models. 

They come apart easily and are easy to modify. 

Regards, Dave L. 





David Laughery
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Dinky little steamers are part of the fun in Gn15,

and run on very tight radius curves.

Dave L. 





Helmut
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The heretic says:

Don't get me wrong - I wholeheartedly appreciate the fun one has with these.

But for me ( and I stress 'me' ) it's more like an ' A W NUTS ' approach,
a place to let your imagination run free with an eye-wink.

( Just one stone please everyone, one stone.. )


David Laughery
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Thanks, Helmut. 

I guess they are a little whimsical, but they were fun to build. 

My Diesels are a bit more realistic, or at least possible. 

Thanks for adding your opinion. 

Regards, Dave L. 





Larry G
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What I find interesting and fun, about tramway modeling,
is the extremely wide diversity of prototypes to model.

Since there is no such thing as a standard tramway,
most anything is within the realm of possibility. 

My Appetite Mine layout,
is well within a realistic rendition of a mining operation.

Yes, even a branch line to a resort,
has more than likely been built somewhere at some time.

Not sure of a clothing optional resort.
 
But maybe somewhere on Earth,
a tramway brought guests to such a resort.

Or, my layout may be it's own prototype.

Larry G


David Laughery
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Here a simple repaint of the Bachmann HO ore cars,

work well with a Gn15 engine. 

Dave L.





Sorry for the double photo, don't know why that happened. 

Eddie, can you fix?

Dave L.


:)


Sure can fix

Going back to have a look at the photo Posting directions can help


Any unwanted photo which you want to remove from the Main Reply Window

Just highlight that photo with a CLICK on your mouse pointer button

Then just hit BACKSPACE and the unwanted photo will be gone


It is all like simple Word Processor operations really

Often easier to do than to actually describe


:f:


Eddie


Tileguy
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I enjoyed this thread very much David....


This style of model railroading would lend itself well to the one industry in house railroad,

and while a bit whimsical, whimsical is good,

it keeps some from getting to be too much the rivet counter and forgetting the fun side of the hobby.


Keep adding your projects as you go, this promises to be a really fun ride along.  :)


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While I would agree that Gn15 is ideal for the one industry type small layout,
it is not limited to that format in any way. 

My railway currently has three towns (soon to be five) and a fairly large yard. 
It is regularly run with 4 operators running 3 hour sessions. 

I just enjoy the diminutive equipment and little teapot steamers,
plus the freedom of unconstrained by prototype modeling.





Larry G
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True, a tramway style rail operation can serve more than one industry or town.
Many examples of a narrow gauge line being built to serve the needs of a few neighboring towns can be found.

The two foot gauge lines in the state of Maine are good examples.
Here, in the Black Hills, a little loco, on a 18" gauge track, served several small mines.

I saw a two foot gauge, tramway style operation, in Laughlin, Nevada, a few years ago.
It carried guests from a distant perking area to a casino.

Small gauge lines have been used to link several resorts together on a island.
Islands are well suited for a tramway style operation, such as Dave's layout portrays. 

In the past, I have been challenged by "experts" that claim tramways are not real railroads. 

Let's see... many tramways have a locomotive that pulls or pushes a string of individual rail cars.
The cars are moved from one place to another. How is this different from a real railroad?

A tramway layout, of any size or gauge, can be fun to build and operate.

Larry G


David Laughery
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Thanks Todd, Bob, and Larry for adding to the discussion.

Best regards, Dave L.



2foot6
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"In the past, I have been challenged by "experts" that claim tramways are not real railroads.
Let's see... many tramways have a locomotive that pulls or pushes a string of individual rail cars.
The cars are moved from one place to another. How is this different from a real railroad?
A tramway layout, of any size or gauge, can be fun to build and operate."


You are 100% correct Larry, and a tramway is fun to build and operate.

I have found having a tramway without all of the government rules and regulations,
helps keep the rivet counters and experts mouths closed..


:glad:

....................................Peter


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I have made numerous Gn15 layouts.

This one uses a 2ft gauge prototype, the Waitakere Tramline Society,
built to 1/24th scale, but on 16.5mm gauge track (representing 381mm gauge).

The prototype (unfortunately now closed) was a weekend enthusiast run passenger train,
that shared the track with Watercare who runs Auckland NZ water supply dams,
and tramlines to maintain the pipelines. 

The track has a water pine running beside the track,
including in very small bore tunnels.

All rolling stock was scratchbuilt.










Tileguy
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Please don't misunderstand me guys,
when I said a single industry in house type operation.
 
It was simply the one thing that seemed to be tailor made,
for this scale and type of equipment....

I did not mean to sound as if I were limiting it,
simply that that particular aspect jumped out as being Ideal IMHO....

This is why discussions are great.
 
Everyone see's something different,
based on their perspective and personal experiences.

Others are just great at thinking outside the box,
and that makes for a multitude of idea's usable by anyone...

The really great thing is the ability to use very tight radius curves,
and that can be a plus for so very many people.

:thumb:


2foot6
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Todd,

I don't think there was any misunderstanding,
not by me anyhow.

I like it when people think outside the box,
that's where many great ideas come from.

The whole aim of a hobby is to help forget other stresses and pressures of life,
let your mind relax and have fun.

I have had visitors in the past, that are rivet counters in the worst sense,
they had lost the plot, and the fun side of the hobby was gone.

They were gone too, when I showed them the door, never to return,
after telling me how to improve my layout.

They can be very draining IMHO.

LOL.........Peter.


Bob R
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RIVET COUNTERS! 

I have had that experience. 

For the benefit of one particular local rivet counter (an NMRA Master Modeler),
I built a small 2' x 4' foot display layout (High Trestle Creek),
whose sole activity was rivet mining. 

The mine cars were hauling rivets from the mine. 
Took a bit to make the thousands of rivets from plastic rod.
 
I have since cut it up and the structures etc,
are now incorporated in my home layout - Geneseo Railway. 

I still point to the sign when appropriate,
to let visitors know my feelings.





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" Took a bit to make the thousands of rivets from plastic rod "


How did you know you had made thousands ?

Were you counting them ?


:f:


Eddie


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That is way too cool Bob.  :)


Showing rivet counters the door,

with a free sample of a hot rivet up the ol bung,

will get 'em out the door PDQ.


he he  :)


David Laughery
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Something I like to do is photo-copy actual turnouts,
and place the copies on full size drawings to finalize track placement,
and get an idea of how the plan actually works.

Sketches and doodles often do not enlarge to actual, workable situations. 

Regards, Dave L. 





Larry G
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By adding a bit of thin plastic to a Bachmann On30 tipper car,
it becomes a credible Gn15 car.

Of course, the Bachmann car can be used as is.

Tramway cars come in many sizes and shapes.

Larry G





Larry G
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For those new to Gn15, I thought a size compairison might be in order.

This Gn15 mine motor is about the same size as a small HO locomotive.
 
Larry G





David Laughery
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Larry is right.

Small engines are possible.  

Dave L. 





David Laughery
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Small, compact layouts are possible with Gn15's sharp curves. 

Here a layout in the planning stages measures only about three by five feet. 

Regards, Dave L. 





Larry G
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Large Gn15 layouts are also possible.

My Appetite Mine layout fills a room 13'x15'.

Very large structures can be built too.

Larry G





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Here is the large, Bradly shaft of the T. Gant Mining co.

This structure occupies an area of aprox. 18" sq.

Larry Gant





Nice photos Larry

You should try uploading them to your FREE Freerails 'Members Gallery' & Posting them from there


David figured it out easily enough having read the simple instructions carefully

He is a self confessed computer numpty as well !


:f:


Eddie


David Laughery
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Because the Bachmann On30 cars disassemble so easily, it is simple to modify them.

Here I simply removed a bit of the car's length. 

Regards, Dave L. 





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Larry

The mine-motor looks great.


Very close to what I remember of the one I saw up in the UP of Michigan,

in one of them copper mine touristy type places, that always get guys like us.

;)


David Laughery
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This project is based on an old Mantua 2-6-2 chassis. 

It has an old open frame DC motor and runs OK. 

I always intended to replace the motor with a can motor.

It awaits on my someday list. 

Regards, Dave L. 





David Laughery
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Another view of the engine. 

Dave L. 





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Sweet!!

That's another one of them NKP's

( No Known Prototype )

Love it!!   :moose:


David Laughery
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There is a little story to this model.

After I had attached the compressor on the one side,
the model fell over when I set it on the track.

I had to add the solid metal air tank under the cab,
on the other side to counter balance the engine.

:Crazy:

Regards, Dave L.


Michael M
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Reminds me of SR & RL #24
 
Where her tender was built too wide,
and water would slosh back and forth. 

After derailing and crashing a trestle,
the tender was cut down to a more reasonable size.


David Laughery
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Michael,

Thanks for that story.
I hadn't heard it.

Regards, Dave L.


Michael M
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Apparently when #24 was ordered the tender was suppose to be 84" wide. 
Someone in the shop misread it as 8' 4" (or 100").

Without any baffles in the tender, when the water level got about half-way down,
it would start sloshing back and forth with enough force to derail the tender.

On one occasion there was enough force to collapse a low trestle. 

A section was cut out of the tender to narrow back,
to were it should have been in the beginning and problem solved.

84", seven feet, seems somewhat wide for a two-footer. 
It seems that most equipment was around 6' to 6'6" wide.


David Laughery
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As a part of scenery in Gn15 I like to use plastic plants, since some of them can resemble the real thing.  

The artificial plants sections of stores like Hobby Lobby, Michaels, ad other craft stores can be a source for these.  

The aquarium section of pet stores can be good, too.  

This very cheap (less than $3) bonsai tree was found on Amazon.  

I think a little trimming, and some scenic foam will produce a credible tree.  

Regards, Dave L.  






David Laughery
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Here is a little train I built for a good friend, hoping to get the Gn15 bug to bite.  

Sadly it didn't get him into Gn15.  

It was built on a Bachmann HO diesel chassis, the cars are Bachmann On30 shortened.

Regards, Dave L. 






David Laughery
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When I first got interested in Gn15 I put an oval of track on a small board. 

I was curious as to how small a radius these trains could navigate. 

As you see, a very small radius curve is possible. 


Because I went on to start three more Gn15 layouts,

I (with tongue in cheek) call this layout #1. 


Regards, Dave L. 





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Gn15 does have its benefits and pleasures.

Have some things intermittently in progress, but my iffy health slows me down a lot.

And is more and more interfering with making things, which to me is the primary appeal of Gn15.

Aw man, too bad No.3 up there didn't get a bite, it really is quite nice bait.


David Laughery
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If and when I am able to start my last layout in Gn15,
it will represent an industrial process located at the end of an island. 

A certain Mr. Sorray Charles was dismayed that his brother's cannery,
was discarding the removed fish heads during the canning process. 

The origin of Mr. S. Charles's knowledge of glue making from fish heads is unknown,
but a large government contract for the glue made the whole thing very profitable. 

A side business of turning fish skulls into bone meal,
helped finance Mr. Charles's passion for little locomotives.

Here is the evolved plan for the Fish Head Glue Co. layout. 
Size is about four by six feet. 

It is set in the year 1935. 

Thanks for looking, Dave L. 





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Hey David


Forget the first word in your last post, it should read WHEN.

I am certainly looking forward to seeing progress reports with plenty of pics.


This has been an interesting topic that I followed closely,

and would love to see the finished result.


.......Peter.


David Laughery
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Thanks, Peter. 

I've enjoyed the process of developing the story of the Charles Fish Head Glue Co.
and the collecting of research, ideas and projects for WHEN I begin construction.

I've added grid lines over the layout plan,
and the next step will be to put it all on paper full size. 

Regards, Dave L. 





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The camera caught a very rare photo,

of Sorray Charles in his favorite little loco, on some rough track.    

Regards, Dave L. 





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There is not much of a need for passenger operation on the island,

but every now and then folks, usually fishermen, from the other end of the island,

need a ride out to the factory area. 


This is the only rolling stock that can comfortably carry people. 


Regards, Dave L. 





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The car was made from a Bachmann On30 passenger car. 

Here is the underside. 

Regards, Dave L. 





David Laughery
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Because of the sharp curves planned for my layout,
I seek out rolling stock with truck mounted couplers. 

Here early Bachmann HO ore cars,
illustrate how sharp a radius these trucks could handle. 

Sadly Bachmann's present day ore cars,
come with body mounted couplers,
so they would need to be converted. 

Kadee makes suitable trucks.

Regards, Dave L. 





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You can see that the body mounted couplers,

would make small radius curves difficult  to navigate. 

Regards, Dave L. 





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For my little steamers,
I like to use plastic plumbing fittings for domes and boiler parts,
from the plumbing department at Home Depot and Lowe's. 

Details come from 'Ozark Miniatures' and 'Trackside Details'. 

Regards, Dave L. 





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Back view. 

Regards, Dave L.





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Passenger car brings to mind the open-sided trolleys,

which used to run in good weather.




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Back when I was modeling large scale trolleys I had a few of the "Brezzers",

and have ridden in a few at trolley museums. 

Regards, Dave L. 





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Hi,

I once created this Gn15/Hn18 summer coach for Toeffelholm,

from laser cut wood, with an Rowland Emett style inspired design.





Juergen


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Juergen

That's a really nice car.  :Salute:


Regards, Dave L.


David Laughery
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Part of the fun of Gn15,

is the making, modifying, and placement. of figures for use on the layout. 


Here are a few of mine. 

Regards, Dave L. 





David Laughery
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We have mentioned that Gn15 layouts can be small or large. 

A friend, Bob R., has given me permission to share his photos, of a small layout he built.

Regards, Dave L. 





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Another photo of Bob's  little layout. 

Thanks for letting my using your photos, Bob. 

Regards, Dave L. 





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Hi Dave

Just wanted to let you know that I've really enjoyed this thread.

If you don't mind,
I thought I would add some of my critters to your excellent little locomotives:

1. "Winky" built on a Bachmann On30 Birney chassis

2. Gas critter on a Bachmann On30 gas-mechanical chassis

3. Speeder built on an old Bachmann HO 44T single truck chassis





I agree that Gn15 is a lot of fun!

I'd love to see more of your steamers.

Brian


David Laughery
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Brian

Thanks for posting the photos.

Your little locos are great!

I'm glad others are adding to this thread.


Some photos of my steamers, are on my 'S. Charles'  thread.

Regards, Dave L.


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Brian

Here is another of my steamers. 

It has no motor or gears,
and runs as a double header with another engine. 
It is a Rivarossi chassis.

It is my best running engine. 

Regards, Dave L. 





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Brian

Love the little engines.....

Soo much character.


David Laughery
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Bob R. has sent a few photos of one of his little layouts. 

Dave L. 





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Another of Bob's photos.  Thanks, Bob. 

Regards, Dave L. 





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Buildings for Gn15 can vary in size. 

This was to be the main factory building on an industrial themed layout.
But was eventually rebuilt for a friend's layout. 

Regards, Dave L. 





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Dave

What is easy to forget,
is the size of buildings, in the larger scales. 

A major factory or industry, can quickly overwhelm the layout. 

I find it to be a bit of a juggling act,
to design a structure that would warrant several carloads a day,
without becoming a monster that dwarfs everything else.


brianwbc
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Bob R wrote: 
Love the little engines.....

Soo much character.


Thanks, Bob!

They could use some of your imagination!


brianwbc
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David Laughery wrote: 
Here is another of my steamers. 

It has no motor or gears,
and runs as a double header with another engine. 
It is a Rivarossi chassis.

It is my best running engine. 





I love it, Dave!

I may start looking for a donor chassis for a new project!


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I like to use the little pull caps from orange juice cartons,
on top of plastic plumbing fittings,
to fashion the domes on my steamers. 

Regards, Dave L. 





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You can see the caps on the domes here. 

Regards, Dave L. 





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You can find similar caps on Coffeemate creamer.



David Laughery
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The Charles Co.'s Porter sits on a bridge once sold by Atlas. 

Too bad they are not still available. 

Regards, Dave L. 





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Hi David  :wave:



Your 'Atlas' bridge-girders, remind me a lot, of the 1:72 'Airfix' Pontoon Bridge kit.  :Salute:

I had one of these as a kid & it was later re-cycled into N-scale scratchbuilding parts !


Having previously modelled in 1:24n3 scale ...  :old dude:

... I could easily see the 'Pontoon Bridge' kit as being useful for Gn15 parts.  L:





You get :-

4 - Girder sections, with sloped ends, about 12" each (ish)

2 - Main cheque-plate road decks, again about 12" long (ish)

2 - Cheque-plate approach-ramps, roughly 5" long (ish)

4 - Pontoon boats, about Gn15 size, single seaters !



An interesting kit for On30 as well maybe, or HO etc.  :dt:

Plenty of these around, bashed up & box-less on eBay !  :P



:)



Si.


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Si.

I never saw those bridges. 
Maybe they were scarce here. 


Here is a shot of the Atlas bridge. 
As I remember, the parts were available separately in two kits. 

I found three of the extension kits at train shows.
I turned them upside down and mounted track to the bottoms.

Regards, Dave L. 





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Here you can see those extension kits upside down with the track on top.
 
This was still in the trial and error stage. 

Regards, Dave L. 





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For over thirty years I have collected advertising from many sources,
like magazines and travel brochures, and put it all in albums. 

Anything that looks like it could be a sign on a building or barn or a roadside billboard,
was mounted on a sheet of paper, and inserted into a plastic sheet protector.

One day when I need a sign, I'll photocopy one,
and attach it to the perfect location.

These are from my "spirits" part of the collection. 

Regards, Dave L. 





David Laughery
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Here is an easy project for Gn15. 

I shortened some Bachmann On30 cars easily,
by removing a section of the body and underframe. 

The Bachmann cars are easy to modify,
because they come apart with just two screws.

Regards, Dave L. 





David Laughery
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I've mentioned here in this thread that diecast promotional cars and trucks are nice models,
that can be used on the layout if the gaudy paint and lettering are removed.

Here a 1913 Ford truck is not ready for the layout. 





David Laughery
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Once the advertising is removed, suitable lettering is possible,
using a printer and clear decal paper. 

Here is lettering for my fictional layout printed on paper as a possible choice.
I will paint the wheels to complete the project.   

Regards, Dave L. 





David Laughery
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I guess I have another hobby within a hobby. 

Here is part of my Gn15 vehicle collection,
all redone promotional banks. 

Regards, Dave L. 





Tom Ward
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Dave

Those are nice! 

I guess that's one of the benefits of going to a larger scale. 

I'm working in 1:48 and what's available is limited. 
Plenty of planes and ships but I'm doing pre-WWII. 

You've done a nice job getting them ready for your layout.

Tom


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Thanks, Tom.

There seems to be a lot of stuff in 1/43 that is pre-war.
Would they be useable?

I looked on Google Images and saw some really nice 1920s cars and trucks.

Sometimes it is hard for me to tell the difference between 1/24 and 1/25 models,
but I like them all.

Regards, Dave L.


Michael M
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Most of my vehicles are 1/32 scale.  Close enough to 1/35 scale for me.

Occasionally a manufacturer comes out with something in 1/33 or 1/34.


David Laughery
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Here is another truck from my collection. 

I decided to keep the advertising,
and just give the truck a spray of Dullcoat and painted the wheels. 

Regards, Dave L. 





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Today's project was to paint the wheels black,
and install white tires on this Ertl Model T.

The gas pumps are Tokheim model 850s,
they are right for my 1935 era someday layout. 

Regards, Dave L. 





David Laughery
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By now you can tell that I am a fan of Ford Model Ts and collect them,
in 1/24 and 1/25 scales, for use on my someday layout. 

I think very highly of the Sun Star Model T. 

I know of four versions,
this pickup, a tow truck, a runabout, and the touring,
but there may be others. 

They are wonderful little models,
but are more expensive. 

Regards, Dave L. 





pipopak
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Have you considered AMT/ERTL plastic 1/24 kits?

There is a bunch of different versions.

Jose.


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Jose

I am familiar with them and have built quite a few.

Right now failing eyesight has prompted my working with the diecast models,
the plastic kits are difficult for me to do.

Regards, Dave L.


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Part of the fun of working with these models, is attaching appropriate license plates. 

Here are plates I found for 1935. 

In half inch scale (1/24) they measure an actual 1/2 inch,
as most plates are a foot wide. 

Regards, Dave L. 





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Harry can't believe that his friend hasn't been stopped because his plate is on upside down! 

Regards, Dave L. 





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This book is a treasure for anyone wanting to add plates to a model. 

It is long out of print, and used copies on Amazon are very expensive. 

I don't own a copy and got one through Inter Library Loan years ago. 

Regards, Dave L. 





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Part of the fun of Gn15 for me is the redoing of vehicles for my someday layout. 

Ertl's 1927 Graham truck is a nicely done model that was fine,
after I removed the Ace Hardware promotion and applied a coat of Dullcoat. 

Having two of the models, I decided to make a pickup version. 

I found the metal to be extremely hard to cut,
and wore out several hacksaw blades. 

Here I am partway through the cutting. 

Dave L. 





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This model is unusual as it has a separate chassis. 





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Here are both versions of my 1927 Graham truck. 

The grill for the pickup went to another project,
and someday I'll fix it. 

Regards, Dave L. 





David Laughery
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Another favorite diecast is this Liberty Classics 1928 Chevy pickup. 

Removal of the promotion and a spray of Dullcoat,
added to the painting of the load, made a nice model.





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To complete the truck I added a 1935 Delaware plate. 

Regards, Dave L. 





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Here is a project from years ago. 

Some may remember the Athearn Hustler with the rubber band drive. 

I found some at a train show and thought "Gn15". 

First I removed the old cab. 





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A new cab is started. 





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Headlight, stack, and paint finished the project. 

Regards, Dave L. 





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Despite the simple drive mechanism,

this little engine runs pretty well if you keep it throttled down. 

Regards, Dave L. 





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Dave,

I like what you've done with some HO locos.

I've got a Athearn SW1500 converted to 1/35 scale that I'm just finishing up.





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Great work!  I like it!

I like the color, too.

I almost chose that color for my diesels instead of red.

Regards, Dave L.


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The color was basic Ace Hardware orange.

It will get black handrails, stack and roof.


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Be sure to post a photo when finished.

Regards, Dave L.



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She is done. 

At least as far as I can get her. 


M.R.C. 'Loco Genie' installed with batteries. 

Everything had to go into the cab.  The hood is too low to allow any room.


David Laughery
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Very nicely done, Michael.

Kit bashing and scratchbuilding is another great part of this wonderful hobby.

What's next?

Regards, Dave L.


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Dave,

Very good question.

So many projects on the list including:

A couple of boxcars, mail/express car, another caboose, and more borax cars.

I have a Bachmann HO Doodlebug that I want to make into some kind of rail car. 

And, a Bachmann On30 trolley that can be used for something. 

Thinking of getting a Athearn S12 to convert to 1:35n2 with 'Loco Genie'.

More figures.

Adding a loco servicing area off the turntable.
 
Finishing the extension to Sundance and end-of-the-line (at least temporarily).


David Laughery
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Michael, until I can get downstairs to the workshop and start the Fish Head layout,
I am thinking about a small diorama with a service station and used car lot,
to display some car and truck modals I've been working on.

Your list sounds great,
but what will you do the second week?  :shocked:

Regards, Dave L.


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In my thread on the Charles Fish Head Glue Co.
I've been showing my efforts to change "toy" promotional banks,
into credible models for large scale, and in my case, Gn15. 

I like the Liberty Classics banks,
but in this photo is an Ertl Ford Model T, evolved from two different offerings. 

The tank and body were combined to make this tanker without need to paint either. 
Fenders and wheels were painted black as the Ertl parts can come in bright colors.

These low cost banks are offered on Amazon and Ebay and seem to be plentiful,
so I don't think I am destroying valuable collector items.

Regards, Dave L. 





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Here are Liberty Classics early Studebakers. 

These were all banks with some promotional advertising. 

They make credible models once redone. 

Regards, Dave L. 





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An Ertl Model T ready for the layout. 

The "turtleback" trunk behind the seat was a Ford option,
and was also available as an after-market accessory.

When I can get to my workshop,
I'll fashion one from wood for the back of this model. 

Regards, Dave L. 





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Nice projects happening in this thread.

Cool!



David Laughery
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Thanks, Forest.

I am not sure if there is any interest in my vehicle projects,
but that is all I can work on while in my wheelchair.

I would love to be able to start a new Gn15 layout,
but can't right now.

Thanks for the support.

Regards, Dave L. 





David Laughery
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Not all Ford Model Ts were black. 
Buyers of very early Ts could choose from a short list of body colors. 

I did this model in green, but it is not an authentic color. 
I just liked it. 

This model will get a "Turtleback" trunk,
when I can get to the workshop. 

Regards, Dave L. 





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Hi David  :wave:


I'm really enjoying snooping over the fence, at your 'car lot' !  ;)

I bet they're all low mileage & 1 careful owner, right ?  L:

Yeah ... yeah ... yeah ... pull the other one, it's got a car horn on it !!  :P


Nice how on some of those large-scale vehicles, you get a separate chassis.  :thumb:


Your HACKSAW job, from van-back to flat-bed was pretty  C :cool: :cool: L.

For me 1:35 'Matchbox' van-back Ford Model-Ts are pretty common ...

... but the flat-bed versions are pretty scarce & very $$$  :f:


Now where did I put that HACKSAW of mine ?  ???


:java: :moose: :dt:



Si.


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Si.

I can't imagine what fun it would be if I had a metal cutting band saw,
or even a chop saw that cut metal.

I've built plastic models for many years and cut up quite a few!   :)
It was easy compared to the metal cars.

By the way, this Lingburg T kit is 1/32, as is the little diecast T touring. 
Could they be OK for 1/35 ? 

Regards, Dave L.





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... a Dremel with a cutting wheel.

Jose.


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I'll second that... get a Dremel!

There are all kinds of attachments that you can pick up.


David Laughery
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Jose

I tried that and went through a pack if discs pretty fast.

The hand hacksaw was actually faster.

Regards, Dave L.


David Laughery
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I was curious and put the 1/24 model (left),
next to the 1/32 model (right) to see the contrast. 

Quite a difference, I think. 

Sorry the photo is so small. 
I forgot to copy the image before posting. 

Regards, Dave L. 





- - - -

There you go David the original photo enlarged

& some grumpy Members still wanna complain !

:f:

Eddie


Si.
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" By the way, this Lindburg T kit is 1/32, as is the little diecast T touring. 

Could they be OK for 1/35 ? "


Hi David  :wave:



It rather depends if mind your 1:35 driver figures, looking like 'kids' out joyridin' !  :shocked:  :td:


I bought a cheap 1:32 'Monogram' (I think) kit Ford-T, which is basically a 'Lindburg' ...

... you can see, even before assembly, that it is just   T :shocked: :shocked:  BIG !   for 1:35 use.

The same goes on most 1:32 or '54mm' figures, just  T :shocked: :shocked:  BIG !   for 1:35 use.

:f:

On HACKSAW blades.  :old dude:

There are hacksaw blades  [whack]  ... & then there are HACKSAW BLADES !  :mex: 


The ones from the $0.99c Store, are OK for cutting toffee, plastic & wood (sort of :f: ) ...

... & after 5-mins. use (when they're worn out) you can bend them into giant-paperclips !!  :P


The 'real' ones, that cost a couple 'o' Bucks $$ EACH, like 'Eclipse'(TM) etc. last AGES ...  :time:

... & after obliterating TONS of 'Collectors Items', if bent, will SNAP OFF in a clean break !!  :)


As for cutting anything diecast with a 'Dremel'(TM) ... Good luck !  :boogie:  (_!_)  :sad:



:java: :moose: :dt:



Si.


David Laughery
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Si.

I guess the 1/35 military stuff must be ok, then?
I see all those figures in that scale, and vehicles, too.
Some of it is really neat!

To have that selection in 1/24 would be tremendous.

I'm not sure of the quality of my hacksaw blades,
but it took a long time to cut the diecast metal with them.

I can't do much metal cutting here at the computer desk, anyway.
I can unscrew the models, paint them out on the deck,
and reassemble them again.

But I am having fun.  :2t:

Regards, Dave L.

PS  Thanks, Eddie, for fixing the photo size.


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Dave,

I use a lot of the 1/35 scale military figures... properly altered. 
Most of them are molded plastic with separate arms, legs, heads, and helmets.
 
The weapons and other stuff gets thrown in a small box,
somebody out there will want them. 

Most military figures come 3-4 to a box,
and I always look for boxes that are on sale at the hobby shop. 
Each figure probably costs me maybe $2.

I also use the green plastic army men in some situations. 
Like in vehicles or buildings where they can't be seen very well.


David Laughery
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Michael,

I looked on Amazon for green guys close to 1/24,
but didn't see any that might work.

ICM has figures that go with their 1/24 Ford T kits,
but are a bit expensive.

I used to buy figures at the East Coast Large Scale show in York, PA.
That has been a few years ago.

Regards, Dave L.


Michael M
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Dave,

Try searching for 1/24 scale figures on eBay.


American Diorama also makes some 1/24 scale stuff: 

http://americandiorama.com/


David Laughery
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Michael

Americanadiorama has some great figures.

I've saved their site.

I think their state troopers would look right in 1935.

Thanks for the link.

Regards, Dave L.


David Laughery
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I continue to work on making "toy" vehicles into credible models for Gn15. 

Here is one of the Studebaker banks by Ertl after redoing. 

Promotions removed and wheels painted have made this a nice addition to my Gn15 layout. 

Regards, Dave L. 





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Here is another Ertl bank redone to make a nice Gn15 model. 

This Maxwell Touring is one of my favorites. 

Regards, Dave L. 





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This was the Maxwell before removing all the promotional lettering,

and painting of the fenders and wheels. 

Regards, Dave L. 





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Since I've mentioned favorites, here is another. 

It is a Studebaker pickup by Liberty Classics. 

Regards, Dave L. 





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" ICM has figures that go with their 1/24 Ford T kits "


Hi David  :wave:


ICMs mechanic chicks  [whack]  look pretty handy with a 1:24 tire-iron !  :w:





:java: [whack]


- - - - - - -


" I'm not sure of the quality of my hacksaw blades,
but it took a long time to cut the diecast metal with them "


$0.99c Store jobs for sure !  :f:


I decided to save all my best HACKSAW BLADES ...  :old dude:
... for whistling through any titanium I come across, like butter.  :boogie:


So inspired by peeking over the fence at your 'Car Lot' ...  :shocked:

... I am now the proud owner of a Ford Model-T pickup !


( I like your Liberty Classics ^^ Studebaker by the way )  :thumb:





Low mileage & 1 careful lady mechanic owner ...  [whack]

... if you believe all you read on eBay that is !  ;)


Is that a SCRATCH behind the door ? ...  :f:

... or just some fluff in the photo ?  :us:



:pimp:  PIMP MY PICKUP !



Si.


David Laughery
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Si.

That is a nice Ford pickup.
Do you have any further plans for it?

The brass radiator makes it a 1916 or older.
Is it 1/35 scale?

I think women mechanics in those days would be very unusual.

The paint on my Studebaker is factory Liberty Classics.
I didn't need to repaint it, just remove all the promotional stuff.

Must be photo "fluff".

I ordered some "real" hacksaw blades,
and I'll have my son try them on the Ertl metal.

Regards, Dave L.


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" I think women mechanics in those days would be very unusual "


Hi David  :wave:


Careful what you say about the mechanic chicks ...  [whack]





... they might loosen your wheel nuts !  :w:



:P



Si.


David Laughery
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OK OK.

There were at least a few.

:Crazy:

Regards, Dave L.


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David

You are building a 15" gauge railway in a 1935 ? industrial environment.
So these female mechanics would really be the least "unusual" thing.

And with a good background story nearly everything is possible.
As long as it's not too obvious physically improbable.

And women in "male professions" to that time were only a matter of social acceptance.
So in a fictional world you build, that's up to you,
and can - especially in that time period -  be a statement on your attitude.

Juergen


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With women being pulled into the workforce during WWI,

and winning the right to vote in 1920,

finding women filling traditional male roles became more common:

http://www.secondchancegarage.com/public4/lady-mechanics-1.cfm


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Apparently in 1914 Henry Ford employed virtually no women

By 1918 Ford were employing something like 500 women

Many as 'mechanics' assembling motor vehicles


:f:


Eddie


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" That is a nice Ford pickup.
Do you have any further plans for it?

The brass radiator makes it a 1916 or older.
Is it 1/35 scale? "


Hi David  :wave:


Yeah ... I think so as well !  :bg:
Yes ... They are 1:35 scale & measure very well for a 'T'.  :old dude:


Compared to the very common van-back & the less so, but fairly common tanker ...
... the UBER RARE ! pickup version, is NOT something even I would dare HACKSAW !  :old dude:

I've got plenty of priceless 'Tri-ang' collectors items to practice my HACKSAW skills on !  :shocked:


Other than inspiration from you, to at last seek one out ...  :us:

... which I ended up getting the Pink-Slip on, for an OK price of £4.60p inc. P&P ...  :cool:
... I have to try your 'MEK' (Plastic Weld) lettering removal technique.  :brill:





I also have 1 'Matchbox' diecast van-back & 2 tankers (1 wrecked ^^ !) ...
... which could benefit from the Laughery(TM)  :brill:  'MEK' de-lettering technique.  :thumb:



:java: :moose: :dt:



Si.


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Si.

Be sure to test the MEK on a hidden area,
in case the paint is different from the Ertl or Liberty Classics paint,
unless you plan to repaint the whole vehicle, anyway. 

My new hacksaw blades came today,
and my son is here to do some "hacking" for me.

Did you have to cut off the peened over axle tips to get those wheels off? 
Are body parts riveted together? 
It looks like a great project. 

I've ordered three more cheap Ertl Model Ts to work on.   

Regards, Dave L.


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" Did you have to cut off the peened over axle tips to get those wheels off? 

Are body parts riveted together? "


Hi David  :wave:


Yes ... Like on some of yours, the body parts are riveted together.  :java: :mex: :dt:


In the photo ^^ you can see a BLACK chassis, RED front, and BLUE back ...

... plus the BLUE tank (not shown) makes 4 main diecast parts (I think) ...

... + plastic radiator, windshield, and seat (behind Wolfy !).  :cool:


The hardened axles did require some kinda elbow-grease ! ...  :boogie:

... can't for the life of me remember, what I did to remove them though ! ?  ???


The diecast BLUE tank, had its open-end (behind the cab) covered with epoxied styrene ...  :thumb:
... & became an  M.M.M.M.M.& M.Co. :moose: 4-wheeler 2' gauge railroad tank car !


The idea with dismantling the tanker 'T' was to re-use the tank for the railroad ...  :mex:

... plus have a wheel & axle-less HEAVY chassis, for a railcar experiment (ongoing).  :slow:


:)


Si.


David Laughery
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Si.

Isn't it great that so many projects evolve from a single thing.

:glad:

Regards, Dave L.


David Laughery
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I needed a turntable and could not find one suitable for a Gn15 layout. 
HO and O scale tables were way too large for my dinky locos. 

From working in N scale for many years,
I knew that the N scale turntable by Atlas was just about the right length. 

The Atlas N scale turntable is easy to wire (four wires) and is self-indexing,
so I chose one for  Gn15. 

I glued a section of PECO flex track to the turntable and soldered two wires,
connecting the rails of the turntable to the rails of the PECO track. 

Wooden craft sticks finished the project. 

Thanks for looking, Dave L. 





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" Isn't it great that so many projects evolve from a single thing "


Hi David  :wave:


In a word ... YES !  :bg:

Epoxying & styrene on, a NEW tank end, for an 'El Cheapo' eBayo bargainista, is smokin' !  :mex:

Just need a Hi-End 8-Track setup for the cab now !!  :pimp:



The body, minus its tank (now a  M.M.M.M.M.& M.Co.  tank car) ...  :us:

... with some strategic DRILLIN' & HACKSAWIN' ...  :mex:

... could easily become a Ford Model-T railcar.  L:



Doable in Gn15 & 1:35n2 I'm sure ... Certainly the track gauge is the same !  :thumb:



Oh ... Dave The Postman  :cool:  SCREECHED to a halt, in a cloud of molten brake-dust ...  :shocked:

... & delivered my nice NEW eBay UBER RARE ! Ford Model-T Pickup ! !  :bg: :bg: :bg: :bg: :bg:



THANKS DAVE !  :bow:  The Worlds GREATEST Postie !  :thumb:

I'm convinced he used to be in Formula-1 !  :shocked: :w:





Any colour you want ... As long as you like BLUE !  L:


Later .  .   .     .                      :slow:


:java: :moose: :dt:


Si.


David Laughery
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Speaking of Ford pickups, here is my latest project. 

If I were to get to my workshop,
I'd love to figure a way to extend the chassis of this Ertl T pickup,
to make the larger truck in your photo, a Ford Model TT.   





David Laughery
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I guess my interest in Ford Model Ts is pretty obvious by now. 

My collection is growing as I rework these diecasts into the many varieties,
that Ford sold in the almost twenty years the car was in production. 

I have plans to add the "turtleback" trunk to a few,
and do a "Torpedo" version with the gas tank behind the seat. 

I am lucky to have a number of excellent references to help with the modeling,
and the resources on the net are numerous.

So, here is a part of the collection. 

If I had the room.... 





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...on a layout a Ford dealer would be fun and a way to display my projects. 

Regards, Dave L. 





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I hope you realise that this building alone,

is approximately the same size as your whole layout.


Juergen


David Laughery
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Juergen, I should have said

"If I were building a room sized layout" it would be fun.


It is an interesting building, though.

:doh:

Regards, Dave L.


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                                  :f:
RIVETS ! ! !  :f: 
                                  :f:
 

:java::moose:



Si.


David Laughery
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Looks like if you need to take it apart you'll have to drill out.

Also looks like they have just peened over lugs that are part of the body.

I think I would reassemble with superglue and not play with it in the sandbox.

:Crazy:

Regards, Dave L.


David Laughery
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This garage might work on a smaller layout. 

Regards, Dave L. 





David Laughery
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Today I sorted through some of the reference books and items sourced from the internet,
on the Ford Model T and early service stations and garages. 

Always a dream to own a real T, I've only been able to make models over the years. 
I guess you could call it a hobby within a hobby as I always intend to use them on my Gn15 layout. 

Part of this great hobby is finding interests in many areas,
that are applicable to the modeling of railroads. 

Regards, Dave L. 





David Laughery
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In my Fish Head Glue Co. thread,
I mentioned that artificial plastic plants are sometimes useful. 

This is a bonsai "tree" that, after a little trimming and limb arranging... 





David Laughery
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...could be used on the layout. 

Check the craft stores like Michael's, Hobby Lobby,
and the fish department of pet stores. 

Regards, Dave L. 





David Laughery
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In my Fish Head Glue Co. thread I've been sharing my projects,
of making promotional banks into suitable vehicles for my Gn15 someday layout. 

Today I snapped a photo of part of my collection of Ertl Ford Model Ts. 

I am ready to get back to Gn15 projects,
new ones and the finishing of old ones. 

Hopefully I can share what I am doing.
I invite anyone working in Gn15 to share what you're doing. 

Regards, Dave L. 





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Over the years I've had to dismantle or demolish some very nice layouts
(some of them mine). 

When building my last layout I built it to come apart easily,
for transport or to go to a new owner. 

The photo shows the joint placed in a water area,
where it would be easily hidden with minimal scenery. 





David Laughery
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I did not finish this layout,
but it came apart easily enough to go to a new owner.

Regards, Dave L. 





David Laughery
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Another view. 

Dave L. 





David Laughery
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I always had built layouts with a wood foundation,

followed by a Luan plywood sub-base for track. 





David Laughery
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With plywood placed I could copy the track plan full size. 





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Because the wood and plywood made a heavy structure,

I have changed to two inch foam as the supporting structure under the plywood.

Regards, Dave L. 





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This layout was started using the foam as a base. 

The foam is hidden behind the Luan plywood fascia,
and the layout is sitting on a long table. 

Regards, Dave L. 





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Here is the layout at the point I had to stop construction due to health issues. 

Regards, Dave L. 





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I guess we all have projects that never reach completion. 
This is one of mine. 

A new cab and domes made from plumbing fittings,
were fitted to an old Mantua Dixie Belle chassis.   

Regards, Dave L.   





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The boiler was too small, so I tried a PVC sleeve over it,

before fitting the cab and domes. 

Regards, Dave L. 





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The project just didn't seem right to me,

so I rethought it and fashioned a saddle tank. 

Regards, Dave L. 





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This is as far as I got on this project. 

The parts sit on a shelf awaiting completion. 

Regards, Dave L. 





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I am back to working on diecast vehicles,
and have run into a problem removing the lettering. 

The newer Ertl vehicles have the graphics printed on a clear sticker material,
and pasted onto the painted bodies. 

The Testor's Plastic Cement does not remove this lettering,
and the recourse is to try to remove the sticker. 

I have tried WD-40, Goof Off,
and prying with an Xacto blade has scratched and ruined the paint. 

Does anyone have any ideas? 
(Heat might ruin the plastic parts, so I have not tried that.) 

Thanks, Dave L. 

PS - The stickers are very well positioned. you can hardly tell they are there.





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When the urge hits to think about a new project,
I like to imagine a Gn15 model and visualize it as a drawing I call a "Doodle". 

It is easy to find plans on the net for a proposed project and Doodle it to Gn15. 
This was a project I thought about for a Bachmann geared loco I had.
 
I never did it,
but it would have been fun watching all that motion ambling down the track. 

Regards, Dave L. 





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Doodles work with diesels, too. 

Regards, Dave L. 





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It has been a long time since anyone has posted a comment on either of my threads.
I am curious if there is any interest in the topics I've been posting.
I would appreciate feedback.

Regards, Dave L.


Don Gage
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Hello Sir,

I am more of a lurker than poster, who models in Gn15.
I check in with every post you update, regularly.

Know that your work and thoughts are appreciated,
and keep me interested and inspired in modeling G scale and Gn15.

Thank you for being the presenter you are,

Don


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Dave,

I do like seeing many of your projects, especially your engine conversions,
since they are easily transferable to my 1/35 scale.

Your "doodles" are inspirational, but much more than I ever do. 

For me it's more of a few quick measurements and some rough images in my head,
then just jumping in and seeing how it turns out.


David Laughery
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Over the years I have to admit to drawing, planning, "Doodling",

many designs for model train layouts, in almost all scales from Z to Large Scale.



OK, I was never into American Flyer stuff, but almost all others. 

Once I even made a model of a layout I really wanted to build, but it never happened.



In the last few years my interest in Gn15 has prompted a collection of plans,

for small themed layouts, highlighting the benefits of Gn15,

mainly sharp curves, and small HO or On30 based locomotives and rolling stock. 



Some may be following my thread on the Charles Fish Head Glue Co. 

Many ideas and "Doodles" have evolved into the layout I would really like to build: 











Last edited on Fri Jul 3rd, 2020 01:04 am by David Laughery

David Laughery
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The Fish Head Glue Co. went through many designs. 

I like waterfront industries and models of boats and vehicles,
and incorporated those on my layout "Doodles." 

Here is an early concept for the Charles Co. 

Dave L. 





David Laughery
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Here is another plan to fit a possible space in my den. 

Dave L. 





David Laughery
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I guess that if one had that 20x40 foot room for the perfect Gn15 layout it would be a lot of fun. 

I prefer small modules or sections that could be combined to create that huge, perfect layout. 

I confess that my imaginary room sized layout was Doodled into this: 





David Laughery
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While huge layouts are fun to think about,
small layouts are more practical and actually able to be completed. 

A small, themed layout is more often the solution to space, time, and financial limitations. 
A small layout based on the guano industry was the basis of the Charles Guano Co. layout. 

Regards, Dave L. 





David Laughery
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About the time of Halloween a few years ago I got to thinking that what if,
a small rural church had to employ a small railway to transport a deceased to the final resting place,
because the graveyard was high up on a plateau across the river from the church. 

A small locomotive, coffin car, and a coach for the burial party would comprise the entire train in Gn15. 
Tall pines up at the grave yard gave the little railway its name, "Rest in Pines Railroad" (RIP-RR). 

I never built this themed layout, but its plan is in my folder. 

Regards, Dave L. 





David Laughery
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Here's a final little layout plan for the processing of pickles. 

"Peerless Pickles" depicts a small railroad that carries cucumbers from an unloading dock,
(lots of old truck models needed) to pickle brine vats for processing. 

I guess my point is that just about any industry can be the reason for a Gn15 layout.
Just think what could be. 

Regards, Dave L. 





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I once designed a HO layout based on Pacific Electric's Sierra Madre line using your modular approach. 

It only consisted of three modules; San Marino, Lamada Park, and Sierra Madre.

Everything else was open field running so the length between modules could be adjusted to fit the available space.

Even got it started and acquired a couple of Suydam cars.  Nope, never finished.


David Laughery
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I remember those cars. 

I still have their catalog, too. 

Regards, Dave L.


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I still have this.


David Laughery
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Yep, that's just like mine. 

Regards, Dave L.



David Laughery
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Some have asked what my source is for parts used in my models. 

Two sources are Trackside Details and Ozark Miniatures. 

Ozark has parts for different scales, but they are often usable. 





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At a train show I found a dealer with reproduction parts for toy trains. 

These Lionel headlights are useful for Gn15 locos. 

Note the screws for attaching to the boilers and the slot for a lightbulb or LED. 





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The plumbing section of Home Depot or Lowe's can provide fittings in copper or plastic that may be useful, too. 





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Craft stores like Michael's and JoAnne Fabrics can be an interesting source. 

I found these gulls in the craft section. 





David Laughery
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For years I have been stashing away bits and pieces of little parts, shapes, and odds and ends. 

I take apart old calculators, etc., for any bits and especially screws. 

Often one of these bits will suggest a project for Gn15. 

Regards, Dave L. 





David Laughery
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Here was an easy project. 

During disassembly of this Liberty Classics Studebaker diecast I found that the body was in two parts. 

By leaving off the top part the panel truck became a nice open bed truck for the Gn15 layout. 

Thanks for looking, Regards, Dave L. 





David Laughery
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Today I did a simple conversion, from top down, to top up,
on a 1914 Studebaker roadster.

The models are from a 1998 Liberty Classics offering for "Trust Worthy". 

The top down cover was attached with a small screw on the inside,
and was also glued to the seat. 

Looks like I'll have to touch up the seat color. 

Regards, Dave L. 





David Laughery
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A new project arrived, this Liberty Classics Studebaker tanker. 

This will be a little harder to decide how to finish it. 
The Citgo logo on the tank is cast in raised letters. 

Usually I would paint the wheels and tank and eliminate the "Citgo",
as that did not appear until 1965 as a brand name. 

Being raised letters, I would have to grind them off, smooth the area, and repaint. 

All that would be difficult to do here at the computer,
so I will have to think about this project. 

Regards, Dave L. 





David Laughery
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When looking at diecast vehicles that might end up as a project,
the method used to assemble the parts is important. 

Most earlier (1990s?) diecasts are put together with small screws. 

I am seeing that some of the later models are using what I call rivets. 
It is usually a lug on the part, that is peened over, securing the two parts together.

To take apart a joint like this, means drilling through the peened lug to release it,
and later using a self tapping screw in the metal, after drilling a small hole for the screw. 

All of this is awkward to do unless a workshop is available with a selection of tools. 
If given a choice I select diecasts with screws. 

My Son often finds these diecasts at flea markets and yard sales,
and knows to choose ones with screws. 

Regards, Dave L. 





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Good to know !

I'm enjoying this thread - thanks for posting Dave !


David Laughery
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Thanks, Brian.

I am never sure that my projects with these diecasts are appropriate for a model train forum,
but they are 'Large Scale'.

Many will end up on my Gn15 layout some day.

Regards, Dave L.


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When looking at something that it is not specifically labeled for your scale,
it is very useful to carry along a measuring device (ruler, caliper, whatever) for your scale.

You will be surprised at how many items you will find that fit your scale,
once you disregard the printed one.

Jose.


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" I am never sure that my projects with these diecasts are appropriate for a model train forum,
but they are 'Large Scale'. "


Hi David  :wave:


With coming up to a massive 20,000 Page Views ...  :old dude:

... you MUST be doing something right !  :P


Freerails just  LOVES MODELING  period !  :bg:


Just 'cos you don't get a dozen  "at a boys"  for drilling a rivet, or gluing on a pipe ...  ;)

... doesn't mean that all 'em folks out there ain't interested !  :us:


Everyone loves a good diecast !  :thumb:

Me especially !  :mex:

I got modded diecast 1:35n2 railroad trucks, Model-Ts & of course CRANES !  :cool:


Investigating the world of 'diecasts' in ones own scale, is ALWAYS a good move ...

... I was surprised at what I could find ...
... & put to very good use for my own 1:35n2 :moose: Rly.


The 'Tri-ang' diecast trucks I use, modded & with new metal wheelsets ...

... would be GREAT for Gn15 in 1:24, as well as my 1:35n2 ...

... same gauge obviously, in BOTH scales, just 15" & 2' respectively.  :)


:java::moose: :dt:


Si.


David Laughery
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Thanks, Si. 

Something I like to do if a particular model will be used on a layout,
is to dull the finish with a coat of Dullcoat. 

I've seen really well done model scenes diminished by all the shiny vehicles
(and buildings, figures. etc.). 

About the only thing on a layout that might have a sheen is water,
so I use the Tester's Dullcoat on just about everything. 

Here two Maxwells show the effect of using a dulling lacquer. 

Regards, Dave L. 





David Laughery
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It seems that the two companies I favor as sources for my Gn15 vehicles are,
Ertl who made the red Ford Model T, and Liberty Classics, who seem to like the early Studebakers. 

I would rate Liberty Classic's cars and trucks as a little more detailed, especially the wheels.
I have not run into the "rivet" issue with the Liberty Classics, either.

Not counting the ones my son finds at flea markets and yard sales, my vehicles are from Amazon and Ebay,
and never have been more than twenty dollars (including tax and shipping) total.
 
For those modeling outdoors, diecasts are entirely appropriate and should hold up well.

Regards, Dave L. 





David Laughery
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Here is the entire lineup of Liberty Classic's 1910s Studebakesr as I have determined.

The roadster with top up, and top down, a panel van, two pickup versions (one has a driver), and a tanker. 

Liberty Classics also make a 1922 Studebaker pickup, but I have not seen one in my price limit, maybe some day. 

As these are really nice models, I hope others will consider modifying and painting diecasts for the layout. 

Regards, Dave L.   





David Laughery
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Painting and modifying the Ertl Ford Model T has been a lot of fun. 

I've found four versions of this diecast. 
The basic body and chassis, with a tanker, pickup, barrel, and box for the back end. 

It seems that earlier versions were assembled with small screws,
but later ones use the "rivet" method of peening over lugs on the body to join the parts. 

I prefer the screws, no drilling or self tapping screws to reassemble.

The cars come in many color combinations as the body, fenders and interiors are separate pieces. 
Real Model Ts had black fenders and, after 1914, black bodies, too. 

Ertl's model, although not exactly correct, closely matches a 1915 T. 
Painting and modifying can make nice models for the Gn15 layout. 

Regards, Dave L. 





David Laughery
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Ertl makes other early Ford vehicles.
 
I really like the 1912 Ford truck because the hood is not attached to the body casting.

By leaving off the body, there is a great beginning for another style of truck, a "C cab", for example.

The net has dozens of photos of real trucks with after-market bodies mounted to a Ford T chassis. 

I have a few of these stashed away for future projects. 

Regards, Dave L. 





David Laughery
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Here is one idea for the Ertl 1912 chassis. 

Regards, Dave L. 





David Laughery
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Sorry, I missed one more style of Studebaker in my line-up. 

The truck also comes with some sort of covered box on the back. 

Here is a photo. 

Regards, Dave L. 





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Hi David  :wave:


C :cool: :cool: L    C :cool: N V E R S I :cool: N S    !   :old dude:



One thing that has always struck me as a bit oDd about 'vintage' cars ...  ???

... is just how, almost universally, LOW both the driver & passenger seat-backs are.  L:


It is kinda like an expensive Chippendale 'sofa'  ;)  with some of the upmarket models ...

... I think Henry felt it might drive the price & profit beyond what he had in mind though !  :P

I guess many 'automobile' ideas on practicality  :brill:  & decoration  [whack]  ...

... may very well have been brought to the 'horse-less carriage' from the 'horse-drawn' one.


:us:


Si.


David Laughery
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Si.

Maybe it is that people were smaller back then. 

I've seen many photos of the early Fords with small folks in them (or so it seems).

Regards, Dave L.


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This guy seems to be very comfortable in the small Model T. 

Regards. Dave L. 





Michael M
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Overall it seems that we are getting taller and bigger:

https://www.livescience.com/46894-how-humans-changed-in-100-years.html


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... and fatter.  A LOT fatter.

Jose.



Si.
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Hi David  :wave:


I am no expert in Model Ts, or any vintage cars for that matter ...  :us:

... but I do know a thing or two about optics & photography.  :P


That photo looks as though it has been taken with a SERIOUSLY wide-angle lens !  :shocked:


Just check out the size of the front wheel, compared to the back one ...  ???

... has that dude jacked his springs & got an extra wide axle & running-board ?


Look how small the lamp on the far side, above the hood, is.  L:


It all looks really weird to me !  :Crazy:

Anyone see anything oDd ?


:java::moose: :dt:


Si.


David Laughery
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Another small driver?   Regards, Dave L. 



David Laughery
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The driver in my Studebaker seems large. 

Regards, Dave L. 





David Laughery
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Usually I need to paint the wheels on my diecasts,
and I've found that the wheels on the Liberty Classics are easy to remove. 

Little screws hold the springs castings, and the axels to the frame. 
Little lugs on these castings press into the frame as well. 

In case anyone is also working on these diecasts,
here is what it looks like. 

Regards, Dave L. 





David Laughery
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This shows the Ertl Model T underside. 

The wheels and axels are held by the lower plate, which is secured either
by small screws or the peened lugs of the body casting. 

It seems that newer Ertl offerings are riveted. 

If you are repainting these diecasts and can check how they are assembled,
I suggest going with the ones with the screws. 

I've tried to drill out the riveted kind,
and found that it is almost impossible to use a self-tapping screw.

I've had to superglue parts together. 
This limits outside use of a finished vehicle, I think. 

Regards, Dave L.





David Laughery
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I took another look at the Citgo tanker,
and decided to paint the body black and simply leave off the Citgo tank. 

The tank is in two parts, a top and a bottom,
so the bottom part will become the frame for adding a stake bed. 

These Liberty Classics trucks come apart with screws, so it is an easy modification. 
I'll post a photo of the finished truck. 

Regards, Dave L. 





David Laughery
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Since I had this truck apart, I thought you might like to see all the parts. 

The Citgo tank top is not in the photo,
and the tank bottom was painted while attached to the frame.

It'll all go back together with a few little screws. 

Regards, Dave L. 




David Laughery
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Yeah, I know.

I forgot to paint the springs that hold the axels.

Regards, Dave L.


David Laughery
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The truck is back together. 

I'll make a flat bed or a state bed for the rear, when I can get to my workbench.

Regards, Dave L. 





David Laughery
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Sometimes I'll find that the manufacturer uses different length screws for assembly.
 
I'll put the odd
(if they are all the same but one, it is rare to have more than two lengths)
screw through a hole in a slip of paper, and mark its location. 

I can't rely on memory,
especially if it has been a while since I took the vehicle apart,
and the project has been on hold. 

Regards, Dave L. 





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Hi David  :wave:


Nice looking Stoody !  :old dude:


Reminds me of my 'Matchbox' diecast 1:35 Riley, for some oDd reason ?  :Crazy:


:java: :thumb: :dt:


Si.


David Laughery
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Si, we don't see many Rileys over here, either models or the real ones. 

Is this like yours? 

Regards, Dave L.





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I dug out some left-over parts from my plastic vehicle building days,
to combine with the diecast trucks. 

We'll see what develops. 

Regards, Dave L. 





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There are more Rileys in the US than you might think,
but certainly no comparison to the UK.

There was an active dealership is the Seattle area, in fact.

That particular model is a bit iffy, but is likely an SS (Jaguar) or Lagonda.
The closest Riley to those lines, would likely be a 1934 Kestrel.
It misses the mark a little, but sure, I can see a general resemblance.

All Riley cars feature a distinctive point on the radiator surround.

My other hobby is restoring British cars,
and I happened to have owned several Rileys over the years.

None so exotic, though.

The model might indicate it's pedigree on the bottom.
I could be way off.


David Laughery
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Wes,

I just put in Riley in Google Search and that looked like a model,
so I assumed it was a Riley.

Many years ago my pride and joy was my 1957 TR-3.
I also had AH Sprites.

But I finally became a true VW fanatic.

Regards, Dave L.


Si.
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I know that I should be totally blinkered & xenophobic about venturing outside of my box ...

... & not be uttering a single word outside of my pigeonhole in the 'Narrow Gauge' Forum ...

... but I happen to look at & converse with ALL Members, Posting in ALL Sub-Forums.  :P



We are all contained, of course, under the single leaky umbrella of the 'Freerails' Forum ...

... so I can still proudly declare my total blinkered xenophobia toward anything else ...

... whilst equally proudly getting wet from the leak in the umbrella, I haven't patched !  :f:



Anyway whatever Sub-Forum it is or isn't in & whatever it may or may not be about ...

... I am proud to count Davids 'Gn15' Thread, as one of my favorite Threads on 'Freerails' ! ...  :bg:

A large part of which, is due to his enthusiasm, toward communicating with other Humans !





... And 54 years later ... There's STILL all that traffic congestion on Westminster Bridge ...  :f:

... I blame it on The Government ! ... Nothing to do with people buying cars of course !  :Crazy:



1966 ^^ & a good year if you happened to want a diecast model of a '1934 Riley MPH' (allegedly).  :cool:





Here's one from Google Images, in 'Large Scale' ...  :P





:old dude:


Si.


Wes Stewart
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Riley MPH?  Sure enough.

Well, I've been wrong before.    And no wonder. 

They only made 15 of them!  Rooster teeth! 

RILEY MPH wiki

-WES


David Laughery
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A couple of simple projects in mind are to put false bottoms in the beds of the Studebaker trucks and...





David Laughery
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... use the parts from an old plastic kit to make a stake bed. 

I think it is a little too wide as is,
so I plan to take a section out of the center to narrow it. 

I'm thinking that 3/8" is about right. 

I'll paint the whole thing black,
and then hand paint the slats a wood color. 

Some cutting and fitting will be needed,
to have the bed sit correctly on the frame of the truck. 

This truck was the tanker,
and the top of the tank was separate from the bottom.

The stake bed should sit nicely on the frame. 

Regards, Dave L.   





David Laughery
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Since I have the second stake bed unbuilt,
It'll be easier to custom fit it to the Ertl Model T. 

Thanks for following along. 

Regards, Dave L. 





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I decided to take apart the built stake bed,
to make it easier to resize it for the Studebaker truck. 

It came apart easily after soaking the joints with the liquid plastic cement. 
It "unglues" as easily as it glues. 

Something to remember if you goof and glue the wrong part
(don't ask me how I know this)
or make some other mistake. 

Regards, Dave L. 





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Nail polish remover also works well in some cases.

Also good for un-glueing fingers.


David Laughery
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I've started to work on the stake bed for the Studebaker truck. 

There is no need to saw out a section of the bed,
but simply score the line with the knife and snap. 

The plastic will separate on the score line. 
This works with straight and curved lines. 

This saves a LOT of sawing with Zona or hobby saws. 

Dave L. 





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The section is cut out, edges sanded smooth, and ready to be glued. 

Dave L. 





David Laughery
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The parts are glued and just sitting on the bed of the truck. 

I like to wait 24 hours until the joint has fully hardened,
before I do final cutting and fitting. 

Regards, Dave L. 





Don Gage
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Great ideas Sir,

I am waiting for the next installment to see how it all comes together.

Have fun,

Don


David Laughery
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Thanks, Don. 

I will have to do some fitting (notching the bed edges) to make the bed sit evenly. 

The rails behind the cab will have to be narrowed, too. 

Regards, Dave L. 





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Not willing to let things well enough alone,
I switched beds with a red truck and will see how a black stake bed will look. 
It will be easier to just spray it black. 

I like the red truck for its red color and wheel treatment and driver. 
You can see the difference of the pickup and the tanker beds. 
The tanker bed is now on the left.  

Regards, Dave L. 





David Laughery
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The stake bed is assembled and I'll let the glue dry overnight. 

Next is a coat of black paint and when that is dry,
I'll glue the bed to the truck using Aleene's Tacky Glue. 

I see the bed is sitting  crooked,  
I'll get it straight when I glue it. 

Regards, Dave L. 





David Laughery
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It's been a fun morning watching paint dry. 

I've not attached the bed to the truck yet,
but this is what it'll be. 

Regards, Dave L. 





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Hi David  :wave:


The stake-bed is lookin'  C :cool: :cool: L


In case you run out of ideas ...  ;)  ;)





:shocked:  :shocked:


Si.


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Si.

That sure would get attention on the layout.

I've never seen that photo.
I've saved it in my collection of Model T photos.



I am not happy with the new can of black paint.
It is supposed to be "semi-gloss", but it is too shiny for my taste.
 
I may have to get out the can of Dull Coat and give the truck a spray.

Regards, Dave L.


David Laughery
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Another project in mind is putting this tank behind a Model T body. 

I'll need to remove the tiny ladder from the sides and paint the tank. 
Here is another example of toy train parts finding use in Gn15 projects.

Regards, Dave L. 





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Dave,

It that a HO scale tank? 


I believe I have something like that tucked away for some unknown future project.

David Laughery
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Michael

I am not sure. 

It turned up in my junk parts box. 
It might be HO, but I don't know. 

I assumed it was from an American Flyer or Lionel flat car. 

A quick look on Google Images didn't show this tank. 
I tried Am. Flyer, Lionel, and "HO" but no luck. 

Maybe someone here can ID it. 

Regards, Dave L.


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I thought I had seen this somewhere. 


David Laughery
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Ah Ha!! 

Mystery solved. 

Thanks for IDing the tank, Michael. 

Regards, Dave L.


David Laughery
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Today I narrowed the stake bed for the Model T. 

I wish I had a few more of these. 

I am not sure how long to keep the bed,
as the overhang seems a little too long. 

Regards, Dave L. 





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I decided to shorten the stake bed for the Model T. 

I am still deciding on the tanker version. 

Regards, Dave L. 





David Laughery
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Both stake bed trucks, the Studebaker and the Ford T are finished. 

I did give the black bed a coat of Dullcoat to remove the sheen. 

Thanks for looking, regards, Dave L. 





David Laughery
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My next project is this Chevy truck by Ertl. 

The promotional lettering is on clear sticker film,
so cannot be removed using the Testor"s Cement trick. 

I have to repaint as a result. 

This truck comes apart easily (only one screw)
and is ready to have the roof masked to keep its black color. 

I have a green paint that does not match this original color,
which is a shame as I liked the "Hemmings Green".

Regards, Dave L. 





David Laughery
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I decided to prime the whole body and see if I like the whole truck green. 
If I don't I'll mask the green and spray the top back to black. 

Sometime the promotional lettering will show through the repaint,
but it looks OK with this truck. 

Regards, Dave L. 





David Laughery
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The truck is painted green. 

I'll keep the top green, for now,
but may decide to paint it black later. 

Regards, Dave L. 





David Laughery
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I am going through photos of Gn15 projects I've done over the years,
and found these of the only passenger car on the roster.

It started as a Bachmann On30 car,
and uses the frame and roof to make an open air transport. 

I had to widen the roof and frame.

The benches are from one of those Christmas village line of items,
sold around the Holidays. 

Regards, Dave L. 





David Laughery
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I used the trucks that came with the car. 
They are attached with screws from within the frame. 

Regards, Dave  L. 





David Laughery
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My Gn15 layout will be a seaside industry based on the processing of fish heads into glue,
and the transport of it to various industries in tank cars lettered for the Company.

Certain chemicals required for the process are imported in special cars painted red,
so as not to confuse them with the silver export tank cars.

My models are cut down Bachmann On30 tank cars. 

Regards, Dave L. 





David Laughery
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I really like the Bachmann On30 cars for modifying into Gn15. 

Since they come apart easily they are easy to shorten. 


Shown is a On30 car in back, and two of them shortened. 

Regards, Dave L. 





David Laughery
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Because the frame separates from the body, simple saw cuts are easy. 

The parts are then glued together to make a "shorty." 


If done carefully the joints are hard to see. 

Regards, Dave L. 





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David Laughery
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The HO flat cars were a train show bargain for a couple of dollars. 

An easy modification to Gn15 will be to,
remove the stake pockets,
add plastic strips to the car sides to widen it,
and add a wooden deck. 

Regards, Dave L. 





Michael M
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Dave,

I did the same thing for one of my 1:35n2 flat cars. 

Used an old Mantua flat car with a metal underframe,
which gave it some extra weight.

My log cars are scratch built out of pine and balsa,
with lead fishing weights (flattened with a hammer) glued underneath. 

I weight my cars on the heavy side to help them stay on the rails.


David Laughery
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On my fish head glue layout fish heads are brought in for processing in open gons like this one. 

Again, cut down Bachmann cars are the source for these. 

Regards, Dave L. 





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Are you planning on making a fish head load for the car?



pipopak
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Fish heads carried in open gondolas.
Will stink to high heaven.

Train will run on smelly orders.
No need to dispatch, all other traffic will just run away.

Jose, who worked in a fishing ship.


David Laughery
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Michael

I've been collecting plastic fish to make loads for years. 


Jose

That's why the industry is on the far end of the island.
Far, far away from people.  


Regards, Dave L. 





David Laughery
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Another little car that is great for Gn15 is the Bachmann ore car.





David Laughery
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The early Bachmann cars had truck mounted couplers,
so they had the ability to run on sharp, Gn15, curves... 





David Laughery
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Latest versions of the Bachmann ore cars have body mounted couplers,
which limits running on tight curves. 

Kadee makes trucks suitable to replace these. 





David Laughery
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These cars make a nice train for my Gn15 layout. 

Regards, Dave L. 





David Laughery
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Other favorite cars on the roaster are these Bachmann ore dump cars. 

These are On30 and make an interesting train. 

They come in two colors, mine are brown. 

Regards, Dave L. 





David Laughery
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Small wagons can make good Gn15 rolling stock, too. 

This was a Thomas item. 

Regards, Dave L.  
 




David Laughery
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The underframe of this HO tank car,
became a pipe/piling transport for my Gn15 roster.

HO or OO rolling stock has great Gn15 possibilities,
and they're inexpensive if you shop for used items at train shows or Ebay. 

Regards, Dave L.   





Michael M
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Dave,

I believe that's a MDC/Roundhouse Old Time Series log car or tank car?

Always liked those Fox trucks.


David Laughery
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Good eye, Michael. 

It was the tank car. 
I think we talked about it and showed a photo of the car in the Fish Head Glue thread. 

The point was that Gn15 models can be cheap and easy to find. 

Regards, Dave L.


Michael M
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Dave,

I agree. 

I use a lot of HO stuff for my builds in 1/35 scale. 
HO scale is plentiful and bashing material can be found cheap.

On30 parts can get expensive, like $15-20 for a pair of trucks. 
My modeling budget just can't afford that.


David Laughery
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Cheap HO engines can be found, too. 
Here is an example. 

This cheap Rivarossi Docksider was intended to be a little critter for the layout. 
I cut off the cab and extended the foot plate for the driver.





David Laughery
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I really like all the valve gear linkage on this model. 

I removed the motor (it didn't run)
and planned to make this a "dummy" unit, to double head with a powered unit. 





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This is as far as I got with the project. 
Some day I'll finish it. 

Thanks for looking, Regards, Dave L. 





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Dave,

As I recall the flanges on many Rivarossi locos were kind of deep. 

Okay for code 100 rail, but not so much for code 70.


David Laughery
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I always had code 100 track, so it never was a problem. 

I did have that problem with some of my N scale trains, however. 

Regards, Dave L.


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My industrial railway will need to load heavy baskets of fish heads from boats.
 
There was a need for a steam crane that could be moved to the wharf,

to assist with the unloading. 





David Laughery
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My crane is mounted on a shortened Bachmann On30 flat car,

to make it mobile about the layout. 

Dave L. 





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A side view. 

Dave L. 





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David Laughery
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My crane still needs cable and hook installed. 
I plan to use picture hanging wire for the cable. 

It is a good representation of real cable,
especially if you can find old wire that has "aged". 

Thanks for looking.

Regards, Dave L. 





Ray Dunakin
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Cool crane!

Very nice work!



David Laughery
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Thanks, Ray. 

I spent some time looking at your work on your site. 
I urge everyone to take a look. 
Great stuff!! 

Regards, Dave L.


Don Gage
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Really nice David,

A sound representation of a mobile crane.
Looks really good.

Have fun,

Don


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Thanks, Don. 

Gn15 has been a lot of fun for me,
and I hope this thread prompts others to give it a try. 

Regards, Dave L.


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In my Fish Head Glue Co. thread,
I shared information on the company's tank cars. 

Regards, Dave L. 





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The only closed car on my roster is this rather plain boxcar. 





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I've decided to gather some handrails and Evergreen plastic strips,
to add some dimension to the plain sides. 

I plan to add some exterior bracing, install some handgrabss,
and eventually add a rolled -up canvas door covering. 

I haven't decided to keep the same color, either. 

Regards, Dave L. 





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No doors?


What did you use for roofing material? 

Looks corrugated.


David Laughery
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The bracing is on, and handrails will be next. 

Michael, I plan to use a rolled up canvas cover over the doors. 

Regards, Dave L. 





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The roof is Evergreen corrugated sheet. 

Regards, Dave L.



David Laughery
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The windows on this stage coach illustrate what I have in mind for the doors on the boxcar. 

I'll try a thin cloth rolled up and saturated with a white glue solution and threads to secure the roll. 

We'll see how it works. 

Regards, Dave 





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The next step is to locate and drill holes for the handgrabs. 

I prefer to drill holes by hand with my pin vise. 

I have a little awl I made from a sharpened nail,
that I use to put a small dimple where I want to drill. 

This prevents the drill bit from having a mind of its own as I start the hole. 

Regards, Dave L. 





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Dave,

Those are some nice grab irons. 

Where did you get those?


David Laughery
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The pin vise makes it easy putting the holes right where I want them. 

Regards, Dave L. 





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The grabrails are just a press in fit until I decide what color to paint the car,
then I'll glue them with superglue.


Michael, I can't tell you the source of the grabrails. 

They were in my junk box left from years ago. 
I suspect they are from Bachmann. 

Regards, Dave L. 





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The first coat of paint in on.

 

Poor Smedly Olson stepped in the paint,

on the way over to take a look. 



I choose the color because I had it on hand,

and the black roof and grabrails will stand out. 



Regards, Dave L. 











Last edited on Thu Sep 10th, 2020 03:58 pm by David Laughery

Michael M
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I wonder just how much "stuff" many of us have squirreled away for future projects.


How many small railroads painted their equipment based on what they had on hand,
and not what color they would have liked. 

I'm not talking about the Santa Fe, NYC, or the D&RGW,
but those little shortlines spread across the country. 

If you are a 30 mile shortline,
and a re-built piece of rolling stock just came out of the shops needing a paint job,
you may have only a few colors of paint to choose from.

Just my thoughts.



Dave,

The boxcar is looking good. 
I especially like the roof. 

I have a boxcar under construction. 
Might try doing a roof similar to yours.


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Thanks, Michael. 

Do you have a hobby shop close that stocks Evergreen plastics? 

Regards, Dave L.



Michael M
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There is a hobby shop that stocks Evergreen.

It's about 45 minutes away. 

Not exactly close.


David Laughery
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The boxcar is finished for now. 

I need to do the curtains for the doors, yet. 

Thanks for looking, regards, Dave L. 





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Dave,

Looks good.  Nice job.



David Laughery
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Thanks, Michael. 

Regards, Dave L.



David Laughery
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Back when I was a kid my parents got me a Lionel HO train set,
that had the engine and three cars made in Italy by Rivarossi. 

One day I took it apart to see the inside. 

Used to tearing apart Athearn motors and putting them back together,
I took the Rivarossi motor apart and was dismayed to see,
tiny ball bearings go flying across the room. 

Long story short,
I never got the motor to run again...





David Laughery
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When the Gn15 bug hit,
I decided to make the chassis a "dummy" little critter,
to run with one of my powered locos. 

The large weight would enable it to pull along nicely,
showing all the motion of the valve gear.





David Laughery
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I had on hand a second dockside shell,
to practice the cutting apart of the cab from the tank.





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I cut apart my original shell,
and added an extension as a driver's platform.





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This is where I am at presently. 

I'll sort through my scraps box and locate headlight and bell castings,
and work on the finishing of this project. 

Thanks for following along.

Regards, Dave L. 





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Dave,

The loco must be very free rolling to be able to use it as a dummy engine. 
Those flanges look kind of deep.  Any chance of re-motoring it?

Since you're modeling in G scale have you ever thought of using battery power? 
I'm thinking that you might have enough room in the cabs for all the electronics.


David Laughery
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Michael,

The weight is enough to move all that valve gear,
when the chassis is pulled or pushed.

Right now battery RC is not an option,
but a number of Gn15 guys use it. 

Regards, Dave L.


David Laughery
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Today I realized that I was not happy with the proportions,
of the rear platform on my critter project,
when placed beside a figure. 




David Laughery
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I removed the small platform and will start from here. 

Regards, Dave L. 





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I cut some pieces of .040" plastic to rough size,
and drew in an idea of what the front of the cab might be. 

It is a petty rough concept right now. 

Dave L. 





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Without intending it to be a copy,
the critter cab is starting to look a lot like a cab I did a few years ago. 

I am thinking that the new critter cab will not be enclosed,
but rather, an open cab with a similar front. 

Regards, Dave L. 





David Laughery
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I found a photo of a Rivarossi Dockside,
and quickly doodled what the proportions might look like. 

I'll need to fashion a stack, headlight, and a dome. 

I'm never sure what I'll end up in the final model,
that's part of the fun. 

Regards, Dave L. 





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Very cool, David!

I'm looking forward to your build!



David Laughery
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I thought my cab front seemed too squat so I redid it a bit taller and thinner. 
I still think I need to trim a little off the top, yet.

I glued a bit from the scraps box to a piece of tubing for a possible stack.
 
The plumbing fitting does not seem right for the dome. 
I'll need a smaller one.

I just keep going until things seem "right." 

Regards, Dave L. 





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I trimmed some off the top and I like the result. 

Regards, Dave L. 





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Dave,

I've used brass caps in the past. 

You can find them in plumbing supplies and they come in smaller diameter than PVC.


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Michael, thanks for the tip. 

I suspect a 1/2 " cap would work well. 

Regards, Dave


David Laughery
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I've started to think about the cab and added the floor. 

I found this sophisticated jig to hold the parts in alignment while glue dried. 

Regards, Dave L. 





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Thanks for following along. 

Regards, Dave L. 





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I've decided to have cab sides on this critter. 

I'm waiting for glue to dry. 

Regards, Dave L. 





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Rear support for the roof attached to the sides and floor. 

Regards, Dave L. 





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Where I am at, so far. 

Dave L. 





Kitbash0n30
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If you aren't careful this could end up looking like something

from the Birdwater and Raspberry drawings in Garden Railways ...

:)



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Forest,

I'm not familiar with that. 


All I know is that the shop foreman builds them as he goes along for the Glue Company,
and doesn't believe in blueprints. 

Regards, Dave L.


Michael M
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Dave,

Your shop foreman and mine must be brothers, or at least related. 
I don't think my shop foreman knows what blueprints are. 

He does have a tape measure...
I've even seen him use it once or twice...
throwing it at pigeons.


Birdwater & Raspberry:  https://bwnr.blogspot.com/


David Laughery
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Michael,

Thanks for that link. 
Now I understand Forest"s reference. 

I'm not sure the Glue company's foreman even has a tape measure! 
(He wouldn't know how to use it, anyway)

Regards, Dave L.


Michael M
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My shop foreman is kind of like Harrison Ford:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YI3KMMvPa9U



David Laughery
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I am ready to add what I call "texture" to the cab sides,
by using thin plastic strips around cab and window openings. 

I had #148 Evergreen strips on hand and will use them. 
They measure .040" x .188", but the size is not critical. 

I just want to add a three dimensional affect. 

Dave L. 





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I like to leave the strips long and trim them after the glue has dried. 

Regards, Dave L. 





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" If you aren't careful this could end up looking like something

from the Birdwater and Raspberry drawings in Garden Railways "



EXACTLY !   :old dude:   B&R  not  B&O !



Davids rather nice :moose: :moose: :moose: :moose: :moose: orange diesel ...

... ticks all the right  'Birdwater & Raspberry'  boxes for me ...

... if I recall it correctly ?  L:



:java::moose: :dt:



Si.


David Laughery
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While cab strips are drying I worked on a boiler extension,
and decided to use the big dome. 

Dave L. 





David Laughery
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Thanks, Si. 

I think that orange diesel was the work of Michael; better check me on that. 

Michael, was that your sweet orange loco? 

Regards, Dave L.


I was correct. 

Back on page 8 of this thread, Michael shared his really cool orange Diesel.


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Your orange No.9 has the Birdwater & Raspberry look nailed


:pimp:


Eddie


David Laughery
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Oh, I forgot about Number 9. 

Now there are two orange diesels. 


Any one else have an orange diesel? 

Regards, Dave L.


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Dave,

Yes, that was a modified Athearn SW1500. 

Painted in what I call traction orange (Ace Hardware orange).





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I'll let the glue dry overnight before finishing up the cab. 

Thanks for following along.

Regards, Dave L. 





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I've added a platform to hold the stack and headlight. 
A small screw from underneath the shell into the stack attaches it. 

I've found that the stack to the boiler shell is the weakest joint,
and best attached mechanically to the shell. 

The cab will need some gap-filling work. 
When I glued with the liquid cement, the window strips broke, leaving gaps. 

I use a force-fit in the opening, to curve the strip in the window.

There is a lot of stress on the strip when I do this,
and the cement softened it until it broke. 

Regards, Dave L. 




David Laughery
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I've modified an Ozark Miniatures headlight and have one of their bell kits on hand.

Regards, Dave 





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The roof is glued. 
I'll let it dry overnight. 

There usually is some final trimming of the roof. 
I use a very thin sheet for the roof so it curves easily. 

I reinforce the roof to cab sides joint with thin strips after the roof dries. 

Regards, Dave L. 





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I suspect that the chassis will be front heavy after the metal headlight is added. 

I have a steel weight to add to the floor of the cab to equal the weight distribution. 
I won't know until I join the cab to the shell. 





I did have to use the weight to balance the shell on the chassis.


David Laughery
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I needed to fill some spaces in the window frames but had no plastic putty available. 

I had a few drops of liquid cement in an almost empty bottle,
so I cut up some plastic scraps into very small pieces and dropped them into the cement. 

After a few hours the plastic was completely melted into a nice putty that filled those little spaces easily. 
An advantage was that the putty is the same color as the plastic. 

The cab is about finished. 

Regards, Dave L. 





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Headlight, whistle, and bell are yet to be installed before a primer coat. 

Regards, Dave L. 





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Ready for paint. 

Regards, Dave L. 





brianwbc
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David Laughery wrote:  
Oh, I forgot about Number 9. 

Now there are two orange diesels. 


Any one else have an orange diesel? 


2 of my Gn15 critters are orange:





I should probably think about repainting the speeder!


David Laughery
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Of course, I remember them.

Thanks for showing them again.


So, there are FOUR orange diesels.

Are there enough to be called a "dabble" of diesels?


Regards, Dave L.


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While waiting for glue to dry,
I eyeballed my running Mantua chassis,
and got to thinking, which is always trouble...





David Laughery
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...that little shell sure looks like it would fit that RUNNING Mantua chassis..





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No.  I already have a cab started for that chassis. 
I'll keep the project as is. 

That cab and chassis is another project on another day. 

Regards, Dave L. 





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Dave,

Are you planning on keeping the boiler on that ten-wheeler,

or making something new?


David Laughery
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Michael,

The original boiler was too small in diameter to my eye,
and I tried a piece of PVC tubing which I didn't like.

I kept part of the original boiler to hold the weight.
and to provide a way to anchor the weight to the chassis.

I am leaning towards making a whole new boiler,
to fit over that original part.

Sometimes projects take years until the mood hits,
or I see something that can move a project along.  

Right now that is the correct diameter tubing
( I am even thinking of a wood boiler). 

Regards,   Dave L.


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Dave,

Try looking at brass pipe for plumbing for a boiler.
 
Different diameter 1/8, 1/4, 3/8, 1/2. 
Thinner walls than PVC fittings.

I too am always on the lookout for parts for the next project. 
Been toying with the idea of using a Mantua/Tyco ten wheeler also. 

Have a Bachmann On30 trolley,
waiting to be made into some sort of rail bus thingy.


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Primed and waiting for final color. 

Regards, Dave L. 





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Traction Orange!

Kitbash0n30
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Michael M wrote:
Traction Orange!


:)  L:

Seriously, why not ...

https://www.steamworkshop.co.uk/portfolio/5-fowler-0-6-0t/

Yeah, yeah, the builder calls it "Fowler brown", but that's orange to my eye.
It's even orange compared to the orange tabby trying to lay on this keyboard!
And brown is nothing but a dark orange anyway, so it IS orange!

Seriously, Google, brown is dark orange ...



David Laughery
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You guys are serious!!!

I only have semi-gloss black on hand, but I'll think about it.
I also have some light green that I was considering.

Going to sleep on it.

Regards, Dave L.

:shocked:


Kitbash0n30
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David Laughery wrote:
You guys are serious!!!


Yep, serious as number 7 here,
and it works in your light green too.

https://www.farrail.com/pages/touren-engl/java-sugar-mill+cape-gauge-steam-2016.php

:)


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If I recall correctly the Pacific Electric ran some steam locomotives,
that had trolley poles on the cab roof to activate the signals.

I don't believe the PE ever painted their locos orange, or PE red for that matter,
but it would make it a horse of a different color.


Kitbash0n30
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Michael M wrote:
If I recall correctly the Pacific Electric ran some steam locomotives,
that had trolley poles on the cab roof to activate the signals.


And diesels.

And if you develop some kind of compulsion to go deeper down the rabbit hole of Gn15 eccentricity,
or even if not, the Swiss have a perfectly logical standard gauge inspiration ...



A unique and apparently lunatic locomotive scheme,
was to generate steam by electric heating.

This appears to make no sense,
you don't need Denver Lasik to to be able to see why.

After having gone to all the trouble and expense of electrifying a railway line,
it seems counter-intuitive to then use that electricity to run a steam engine,
with its less-than-impressive efficiency, rather than simple electric motors.

Although patent offices are filled with strange, head-scratching inventions,
this one in particular seems a bit demented.

It was not.  There was (as usual) a good reason.
In fact, it was actually a pretty clever solution to a temporary problem.


http://www.douglas-self.com/MUSEUM/LOCOLOCO/swisselec/swisselc.htm

Hey, if an electric steamer should be any color,
should it not be traction orange?


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Love that Mantua.

I see them fairly cheap used,
unlike the 2-4-0's and 4-4-0's, which are a hot commodity.

I've been eyeing one for a future loco myself.

How does it run overall?


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Hi Dave  :wave:


While the  HOT DEBATE :boogie:  ...

... over 'Traction Orange' ? (or 'Ace Hardware' orange) continues ...

I have to say, she looks rather spiffy !  :old dude:





That 'component unifying' grey-primer, really brings it all together 'as one' (non-B&O)  :P  engine !  :thumb:


What you get when NOT painting stuff 'black' ... Is very 'attractive shadows' on a mid-tone colour.  L:


Mmm ...  ???


:pimp:  :pimp:  :pimp:  :pimp:  :pimp:


Si.


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Traingeekboy,

I've only had the chassis "up on blocks" to test run it,
and after a little lube it ran really well.

On those old open-frame motors,
if you cleaned the commutators and oiled the bearings,
they ran pretty well.


Si.

I'm starting to really like the gray color.

Maybe the story line is that the shop foreman is waiting,
until the Company budget can afford the final black paint.  


Regards, Dave L.


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Rusty Oleum, the shop painter,
has just been told that there is no money in the Company budget for a new paint job,
and the color will remain gray. 

Oh well. 
He wanted to go fishing, anyway. 

Thanks for following along on my critter build. 

Regards, Dave L. 





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I found this old Rivarossi HO tender in my junk box,
and got to thinking about a tender for the critter. 

I would mount the whole body on a new frame,
and put it on some Bachmann On30 trucks. 

I am just thinking about it. 

Regards, Dave L. 





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While neatening up after the critter project,
I laid all the tools used in the project together. 

I have lots of different and unusual tools I have collected over the years,
but presently I can't get to them down in the basement workshop. 

I am doing projects now with just these simple tools,
and I thought you might like to see them. 

Regards, Dave L. 


David Laughery
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The adhesives I use are these:

Tacky Glue, Testors Plastic Cement, and a gel super glue. 

Regards, Dave L. 





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Still thinking about the tender for the critter.
 
I pulled out a shorty flat car,
and put the tender shell, minus the underframe, on top. 

I would have to shorten the shorty,
and I think extend the height of the shell, maybe 1/2 - 3/4"

Like to hear your opinion on raising the height of the shell,
or even doing a tender. 

What say you? 

Regards, Dave L.





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I think that the height of the tender should be less than the fireman's eye level.
 
Say maybe 5 feet.

I use a scale figure to get a sense of what a 1/35 scale person could see.

Doesn't always work out, but it's a starting point.


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" I would have to shorten the shorty "


Hi Dave  :wave:


If you  "shorten the shorty"  any more ...  :shocked:

... it would be a disconnect !  :P


Sometimes I get this oDd feeling ...  :us:
... like someone has unhinged the top of my head, 'Monty Python' style ...  :old dude:

... & is performing open brain-surgery with a blunt Exacto knife !  :Crazy:


I'm getting that feeling right now !




Numerologically  3 + 8 + 2 = 13  :brill:

A very unlucky number !  ;)


Pushing the limits of the 'in scale' & 'out of scale' thing, can be quite funky ...  :pimp:

... the 'Birdwater & Raspberry' does this for me, without the blunt brain-surgery.  :cool:

I think a tender might need to resort to 'Plan B' in this case !  (_!_)

But what do I know ?  :dope:

I chop up swingin' '60s HO stuff, for toy soldiers to mess about with !  :Salute:


The loco has that elusive 'funk factor' in spades ...  [toast]

... the tender needs to be switched off the side of the bench, back into the junk box !  :P


:java::moose: :dt:


Si.


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Here the tender shell is sitting 7/8" above the deck. 

I'm thinking  1/2" would be about right. 

Regards, Dave L. 





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I have decided to put aside the idea of a tender, and let the critter as is. 
Had a tender been necessary I would have scratch built one.

Thanks, Michael, and Si for your input. 

The engine drivers at the Charles Fish Head Glue Co.
are used to loading a bucket of coal and hoisting it into the cab to feed the firebox.

Regards, Dave L. 





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Now that tender looks very good with the new loco

Reminds me a bit of some Glover Machine Works tenders

Are you going to have a wooden coupler beam up front ?


:f:


Eddie


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Eddie, this is a project that could just keep going. 

I'm not happy with the overhang on the front,
and had thought about a small pony wheel and front beam,
to stretch the chassis to match the boiler. 

Still might do it. 

Regards, Dave



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