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Reg H
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| Joined: | Sun Oct 19th, 2014 |
| Location: | Shelton, USA |
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Peter
That makes sense.
Steven's idea might find the problem.
But trying to make those connections,
with my 71-year old eyes and hands is not practical.
The motor looks like it is completely sealed.
But it seems there ought to be access to the brushes.
Except that would not explain the refusal to reverse direction.
Reg
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Reg
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2foot6
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The fact the motor only turns one direction is a mystery,
that could be caused by soft springs or worn brushes.
It is not a common decoder issue,
but I'm thinking it may be the decoder or brushes.
....................Peter
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2foot6
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Reg
I have had another thought.
Can you remove the decoder,
trace out the motor wires, and connect a 12 volt DC power supply to them,
and try the motor with 12 volts, in both directions.
If it works OK, then the decoder is at fault,
or if it is still a problem, then the motor is faulty.
.....Peter
____________________
I aspire to inspire before I expire.
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Reg H
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Peter
That is a good idea.
If I choose to replace the decoder, I will run a test like that.
I don't want to start seriously hacking things apart, without a replacement plan.
Reg
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Reg
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Si.
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| Joined: | Thu Feb 23rd, 2012 |
| Location: | London |
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Hi Reg 
I have seen tons of 'broken inside insulation' ...
... single copper solid-core wires over the years. 
Also some multi-stranded non-conductors as well.
Also 'pro-audio' mic-cables, snapped 1/2 way along inside the cable.
All these faults were invisible, under the insulation of course. 
One has to be careful these days not to get mugged by ALUMINIUM WIRE ! as well ... 
... single solid-core, pulled out of ever handy CAT-5 cables, is often copper-plated aluminium !
It will SNAP inside, pretty much as soon as you bend it sharply, only a couple o' times.
I like silver-plated copper multi-stranded insulated in P.T.F.E. Teflon(TM) for my audio stuff. 
For model trains & slot-cars, I like multistranded SILICONE insulated electrical wire. 
The P.T.F.E. is tricky to strip the insulation, due to the slipperyness of the Teflon(TM) ...
... but with both P.T.F.E. & SILICONE, the insulation doesn't 'melt-back' when soldering. 
I damn well HATE regular meltable P.V.C. conductor insulation ! 
Cost wise, you wouldn't notice 'much' difference in price, for a yard or two. 
They are both available on eBay for a $ Buck or two, for a few yards of cable.
  
Si.
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' Mysterious Moose Mountain ' - 1:35n2 - pt.II
http://www.freerails.com/view_topic.php?id=7318&forum_id=17&page=1
' M:R:W Motor Speedway !!! ' - 1:32 Slotcar Racing Layout
http://www.slotforum.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=59295&st=0&a
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2foot6
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Reg
You will be able to trace the wires to the motor, using a multimeter.
...............Peter
____________________
I aspire to inspire before I expire.
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bobquincy
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| Joined: | Sun Jan 27th, 2013 |
| Location: | Florida USA |
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I have had a motor run only in one direction,
and intermittently, due to worn out brushes.
The motor had metal brushes, and they were worn through,
making contact only sometimes.
As for wire,
the best I have found
(and all that I use for models) is Daburn 2671.
boB
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2foot6
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Reg
I have just gone through a box of faulty decoders I have collected over the years,
and one gives me the same problem you have.
It runs well in one direction and will not reverse.
I suggest you try another decoder to prove the problem.
....................Peter
____________________
I aspire to inspire before I expire.
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Reg H
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| Joined: | Sun Oct 19th, 2014 |
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Si:
I am pretty sure I have continuity to the decoder.
It programmed just fine.
There seems to be enough wire trimmed off the decoder,
to provide for the rest of the install.
I save all the pieces I trim off.
My big frustration is finding a wire stripper,
that will dependably strip #30 wire.
I found one at MicroMark.
Peter:
Those are wimpy looking brushes!!
I suppose that is standard for the can motors.
I will test the motor before I order a new decoder.
If that doesn't test out, I will replace the motor.
But I am pretty sure I am going to change out the decoder.
Reg
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Reg
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bobquincy
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The Ideal 45-125 T-7 wire stripper,
(about $12)
Works well for 30 AWG (24 to 32 stranded).
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