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Posted: Sun Feb 14th, 2010 05:32 pm |
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1st Post |
teetrix
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Location: | Germany |
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Last December I bought a riveting tool, developed for 0,2mm brass (.010 is 0,25 mm) These days I tried 0,3mm styrene sheet and was very pleased with the result:
 
Aluminium tin from beer cans works nice as well (The first modeling material, which makes fun already by purchasing and preparing )
Here are pics from the tool:
http://wald-wiesen-feldbahn.de/index.php?cPath=34
Michael
Last edited on Sat Dec 11th, 2010 09:42 am by teetrix
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Posted: Mon Feb 15th, 2010 03:14 pm |
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2nd Post |
W C Greene
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Michael-that is some nice riveting work! We hope to see some riveting models soon. Can you show us a photo of the tool you bought...expiring minds need to see.
I will be riveted to this place see what you come up with. Woodie
OK, I just looked at the link and saw the tool. I must have had a rivet in the head!
Last edited on Mon Feb 15th, 2010 03:15 pm by W C Greene
____________________ It doesn't matter if you win or lose, its' how you rig the game.
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Posted: Mon Feb 15th, 2010 03:41 pm |
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3rd Post |
madmike3434
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is anybody counting those rivets ?
mike
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Posted: Mon Feb 15th, 2010 06:39 pm |
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4th Post |
teetrix
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is anybody counting those rivets ?
252 
Btw: The parts are for an articulated loco in 0n18. I don't have enough unfinished projects 
Michael
Last edited on Mon Feb 15th, 2010 06:40 pm by teetrix
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Posted: Tue Feb 16th, 2010 04:17 am |
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Posted: Wed Feb 17th, 2010 02:16 am |
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Herb Kephart
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Years ago, Bill Clouser, who made museum quality models (for the Smithsonian even!) worked with Strathmore--which is an art quality thin card product. He did a writeup in MR outlining his methods. For rivets he drilled a series of holes in a piece of brass.

He had a box with a light inside, and a frosted glass top. He laid the brass on the glass with the lamp lit, and the card on top of that, with the rivet side down. Lining up pencil lines on the top side of the card with the dots of light coming through the brass, he would take a drafting pencil with hard lead, and press it into each hole.
Even works with styrene, as evidenced by this 35 year old master for an aborted project.
Last edited on Wed Feb 17th, 2010 02:18 am by Herb Kephart
____________________ Fix it again, Mr Gates--it still works!"
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Posted: Thu Feb 18th, 2010 02:06 am |
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7th Post |
W C Greene
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Wow Herbie-I haven't heard Mr Clouser's name mentioned in many years...he was truly a master. I enjoy these trips down memory lane. I'll bet you remember Mel Thornborough (spelling?) and of course Bill Schopp. My all time favorite was E L Moore, remember that he built beautiful structures from balsa wood, cardstock, shirt cardboard, and modeling clay. His stuff looked every bit as good (of course it had soul) as the "masters" of today. And Irv Schultz....what more can I say? Woodie
PS-sorry to usurp the thread with my wanderings...carry on with rivet making or counting.
____________________ It doesn't matter if you win or lose, its' how you rig the game.
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Posted: Wed Feb 24th, 2010 12:51 am |
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8th Post |
dottney
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I'd like to interject a bit of info here about metal parts. I just picked up a Fiskars paper crimper to make corrugated sheets(on sale at Joann Fabrics for $11.99). For the metal I am using aluminum oven pans I picked up at a Dollar Store (2 for $1). These are pretty useless in the kitchen because they're so thin but that makes them very useful for us.
While they are no where near as fun to prepare as beer cans, they do provide nice aluminum sheeting.
Dave
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Posted: Tue Mar 2nd, 2010 05:12 pm |
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9th Post |
teetrix
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At the weekend I make some channels for a boxcar from evergreen strips. Every channel is made from 3 pieces:
 
The car is from the legendary "MPSB", which is in Germany quite popular as the Maine twofooters in the US.
MichaelLast edited on Sat Dec 11th, 2010 09:32 am by teetrix
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Herb Kephart
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Michael- the roof has a very nice uniform curve to it, did you heat form styrene to make it?
Herb
____________________ Fix it again, Mr Gates--it still works!"
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