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wclm
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:bg:Next off the bench is a stone scratch built two story building. It is not quite finished but I'm going to post some pics of the build so far. The building is going to be a small bell foundry. The proprieter is John Hells. So the sign on the front will read "Hells Bells".

 

















The structure is made up of Tom Yorke castings from some years ago. The decks and stairs are scratch built as are the large doors and tracks. The boom is srcatch as is the traveling block. It was weathered using the salt method. The rof tin is homemade and rusted in Archer Ecthant. The stone and wood is a combination od acrylic paint and oil base stain. The stairs and decks are darkened with Builders in Scale Silver Wood  stain. The part that I think turned out well is the joining of the walls. Several cuts had to be made to lengthen wall sections and then hide the joints at the corners and in the straight sections. Anyway here it is and now will take up residence next to some coke ovens on one side and "Noisy Creek" on the other side.

                                                                                          :)Clif K

 

Paladin
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Clif  :-

Looking good, real good.

It's amazing what can be done with Tom Yorke castings, a little imagination and modeling skills.

I like wacky little structures such as this. 

Don

Herb Kephart
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Great to see a model of a stone building where the corners are correct!

Very nice job.


Herb:old dude:

madmike3434
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hells bells.....oh ya !

Your not kidding when you said you used walls from various Tom Yorke old kits. Plus what looks to be with the board & batton wall an original Tom Yorke Practice wall he used to sell and is now being offered again on ebay.

I also see a rear tavern wall from the #119 pool hall and bordello kit , plus the middle center wall that the stairs to a bordello ran up.  Throw in Yorke #105 the ''out building '' side wall s and rear wall and lastly the very rare parts for the retaining walls from yorke C-1 kit Hillside Cabin.

great stuff and thats looking really TRICK  !!!!!

I gotta hand out some MOOOOOOOSIES :moose::moose::moose::moose::moose:for this build

mike

Lucas Gargoloff
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:glad::glad:WOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOWWWWWW:glad::glad:


All I can say is awesome!! You did a nice job on that, I like the colours you painted the stones, very realistic. Now, as a suggestion, the I beams looks too monochromatic, I can see only two colours, you can try to add some powders in differents rust tones.

Woooow again!!! LMAO

wclm
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Thanks for the comments guys. You are right Lucas about the decks. I still have a number of things to do yet, wear paterns on the decks along with heavy wear under the hoist. Nail holes and nut, bolt, washer detail to be added to th wood. Needs two stacks and support wires for the foundry operation. The sign over the front deck is under way now.  Mike your right on on the kit pieces. When those came out I was working aat Caboose Hobbies and spent all of my wages picking as much as I possibly could. Those kits a simply fantastic. Anytime someone comes up with a hydrocal structure I find myself using T. Yorke as the old standard.

                                                                                :) Clif K

madmike3434
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cliff....did you ever totally finish this structure ?

You did not show a picture of the back side wall with plaster parging running up it , nor the opposite end wall.

Any chance of an update photo or two.

mike

wclm
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Mike
Yes it is done or done more. I have not had hardly anytime to work on anything on my own layout or stuff. I've taken on working on a On3 layout with another friend. He built the layout for a customer and I'm doing the structures. The layout is loosely placed in the 40's and in Chama, New Mexico. The structures are all of the town, mine complex, sawmill, and some small associated buildings. Around 30 in all. Zooming right along, I've got four done. The strucures are primarily Banta, BarMills, and KMP. I hope to post some pics soon. The owner of the layout has had me building rolling stock as well. Amazing how much time it eats up. Sure glad I like doing this kind of stuff. One piece I'm kind of proud of is a small mercury retort, to be used on my layout at the sampling works of the mine.
Clif K

mabloodhound
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Nice!
Especially those stairs. It is good to see someone use the correct pitch for stair stringers instead on the old 45º steep ones.

wclm
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mabloodhound
The hobby shop did not have any stringers, so I copied a plan from one of my constructions practices books, reduce it and there is the template. Cut them out of a scale 2 x 14. Works beautifully. I saw the hint on free rails I believe for using full scale plans from books and just reducing to the appropriate scale. I saw one for a picnic bench which looked extremely easy, but have not done it yet.
Clif K

madmike3434
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mabloodhound wrote:
Nice!
Especially those stairs. It is good to see someone use the correct pitch for stair stringers instead on the old 45º steep ones.


They look just like the laser cut BANTA or riches RSLASER KITS O scale stair stringers. They come in kit form with the stringers already cut with that same bottom and the top. They come jigged for 2-4-6 ft wide treads

I used them a lot.

mike :old dude:

Last edited on Mon Mar 31st, 2014 06:01 pm by madmike3434

wclm
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Mike
The jig is nothing more than four strips of wood. The nice thing is that you can build various width staircases. You just need to add additional stringers to meet the building codes.
Clif K

Si.
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" tin is homemade and rusted in Archer Ecthant "

Hi Clif

First of all, what a crazily WONDERFUL building !!
I totally love it !

:moose::moose::moose::moose::moose:

I'm guessing that 'etchant' is circuit-board making Ferric-Chloride, from Radio Shack.
( used to know the 'Archer' brand in the UK )

What metal did you use for the corrugated roof ?
Steel ? ... Right ?

I've seen a load of different ways to do 'corrugations' of late...
...how did you do yours ?

:moose:

Si.

I used 'salt water' on some old 1:24 Russ Simpson corrugated material years ago...
...it actually ate through the metal !
Took an ETERNITY to happen though...

:shocked:

darrylhuffman
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I have enjoyed looking at these photos again.

I especially like the coloring of the stone.

Great work.

wclm
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Your correct on the etchant. That is the brand from Radio Shack. I guess there are other brands of Ferric-chloride out there. The process is to submerge the metal tape (made from aluminum duct tape described later) in the etchant. It will start to fizz in a minute or two. The big issue when using the stuff is that the fumes from it are potent and hazardous. Use only in very well ventilated area. You can watch the action and stop it at any point by picking it out of the etchant and into a bath of water and the rinse under running water and let dry on a paper towel.
The corrugated metal is made from aluminum duct tape. It is used to seal joints in ductwork for heating or air conditioning.To make the corrugations,I press it between a home made jig consisting of corrugated wood glued to blocks of 2x4 wood and framed to get the same position all the time. If interested I will post a couple pics of the jig. The tape has an adhesive back. I make the corrugations with the tape backing in place and remove the paper backing just prior to etching. It sounds complicated but is actually quite easy and yields a lot for very little cost.
Clif K

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Love to see the jig! Please post.

wclm
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I will take a couple of pics and post for viewing.
Clif K

wclm
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TommyC
I hope you can figure these pics out. Technically they should be in another category.


showing closed in working stage



aluminum duct tape cut  used



cut it to dimension needed



result after smacking the closed block with rubber mallet a couple times with duct tape in jig



you can then remove and etch the tape.



Follow the directions religiously. Good idea to do outside with test pieces to see the results and what happens. One note as you etch more and more strips the solution warms up and the action speeds up with the heat. Use a plastic bowl large enough for four pieces to float in. You only need a shallow amount of etchant in the bowl. I use a plastic bowl with warm water for rinse. You can always put the tape back in the solution if you haven't got the right effect.  Last note "this stuff is hazardous if you are not careful" For that matter so are Xacto knives.
Clif K

darrylhuffman
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Clif, I keep coming back to your photos of the stone walls.
I have been trying to duplicate the look of your stones without success.
If you have do a short "how-to" for coloring stone walls I would really enjoy seeing it.
Darryl Huffmandarrylhuffman@yahoo.com

wclm
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Darryl
 The process I used on the building is as follows,
I fist give the castings a good coating of clear matte acrylic spray. You can do do it before or after assembly. Sometimes it works best with all the walls laying out flat.
It usually only takes a short time for the clear coat to be absorbed and dry. I will look as if you have actually done nothing to the  surface, but it does seal the hydrocal castings. The reasoning is that it seals and keeps your colors from being absorbed to quickly. I also seals some areas a lot more than others, giving  the look on some areas that the colors are different shades or very little color at all.
After a half hour or so the clear coat should be dry. Then I use a small plastic palette from Hobby Lobby for the colors. I use the one that has five or six small cups in it. The colors are your choice. Mine are again Hobby Lobby cheap acrylics. The ones like Apple Barrel, Americana, or whatever is cheap 69 cents a bottle. I like the sandy gold color, light tan, light brown, light gray. I you have a larger palette all the better. Next look in the Hobby Lobby art supplies for a small bottle of Flow Medium. There are a few different brands. Add several drops of the to each bottle of color you use. As it says it really makes the paints flow nicely. Shake the bottles very good to mix it in Put a small amount into the cups of each color you choose. Four or five different colors. Then mix in a few drops of water to each for a thin wash. You can test your thinning on a sheet of copy paper. This will let you see if you need to add more color or more water the palette. You can even mix the colors for slightly different shade of each. Now your ready for the job. Paint the first color over several stones. Some people work light to dark or dark to light. You can see mine is primarily the sandy gold. Hit other stones with varying amounts of the colors. I try  not to get a huge difference in the coloring. You don't have to worry about very precise coloring of each stone. last step I use a small medicine dropper to flow an ink alcohol mix between the stones. Hold your wall sections up so the ink mixture flows down around the blocks. You can even flow the ink over the colors and on the wood cracks or grain. Hopefully this helps. It is a real trial and error method. You can try your colors on the back side of the walls. If you or anyone has more questions, don't hesitate to ask. Even post pics for suggestions if you like. It is great to see that people have interest in what you have done.
Clif K

darrylhuffman
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Thanks Clif.  I have never tried the flow medium but I have a large assortment of the other colors and more.
The sandy gold is one I do not have.
Thanks so much.
Darryl

wclm
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Darryl
  Every time I hit Hobby Lobby or Michaels with my wife I check for colors that look promising. There are some with small shade differences. That way I always have stock colors and don't have to try to match mixed colors. Some would say use a recipe for what I have mixed, but I would lose the recipe or spend too much time looking for it. As for the flow medium, Liquitex is one brand. Art supply stores have various ones.
Clif K


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