Or just need inspiration? The lower half with the closet isn't done yet.
The track that I have layed out so far goes from the hidden staging through the 24"R curve and past the three way switch, and to the end of the siding on the bump.
I am probably horribly explaining things. Sorry.
Layout plan designed in Anyrail, the trial version.
What appears to me in the top right hand side of your photo is the door entry way. Have you ever consider putting a duck-under or flip-up bridge there. So that you could have continuous running with switching. Instead of a point to point layout with switching options.
Something to think about. !!!!!
____________________ Ronnie D.
Owner and Builder of The R&P Lumber Company.
I also Build and sell "On30 Logging and Detail Parts on Ebay.
Ok here is the rough plan.
engine comes out of staging(holds 10 50' cars) and positions its cars on either track that is part of the run around. Each Runaround track is a little over 60", so 4 car lengths of 50' cars. And I mean enough space without sideswiping the cars on the parallel track. If the train is longer, some cars can be parked on the curve going to the left and down, well actually upgrade, with a mechanical brake (some wire poking up between the rails. Engine runs around train to be able to switch cars in and out of the two local industries. The tracks in the pavement would lead to the building that is off the layout not actually modeled. This track is long enough to hold two cars, but will probably only hold one at a time.
Engine switches cars at the foreground industry, which can hold 4 cars, but will most likely see only 2 at a time.
Anywho, then it can leave some cars and take the 1 or more cars uphill around the curve to the left.
That is all I really have as far as operation. I'm thinking about having the track at the far upper right be an interchange where I leave loaded/unloaded cars that are the opposite (unloaded/loaded) next time I run the railroad. That stub is primarily there so that an engine plus three cars can pull past the turnout and go up around the curve.
The track coming off the right and curving down for a continues run will be built at a later date, and no it won't be so curvy, I just got lazy with Anyrail. The liftout section is a last priority, won't be built for awhile. Most of the shelving has been up for 3 years now excluding the bulge on the lower right and the half circle extension above center. All shelving is... shelving and hung off the wall. The bulge is hung from the ceiling at four points at its farthest from the wall. The benchwork has been up for so long because of numerous reasons, a major one being that it is a lot easier to plan and dream than to actually build. Also switched from HO , N and finally 2 rail O.
It's true that car count wise I have a lot less, a total of seven cars plus an engine, but it feels like a lot more because of the size. Engine is an Atlas GP60 painted for the Southern Pacific and can pull all seven cars around the 24" R curve and up the 4% grade.
Track is old used Atlas/Roco flex track bought off Ebay. I think its code 148, some steel and some something else plated. A pain to file and cut compared to code 40. Bought two old switches but might not even use them, handlaying the rest. Hot gluing the track to the foam. Spiking the switches with staples cut to resemble spikes. Dipping spikes into glue then spiking. Ties are 3/16 x (3/16 or something else, I just lay them on edge so all are the same width, I can work around the height) basswood, with some balsa when I ran out of basswood. Turnouts are manual using some N scale switch throws or some kind of linkage scraped together from odds and ends.
While fleshing out the scenery I have thought of patching the SP engine for some fictitious shortline instead of UP. Maybe set it in the year 2020 , with an urban, run down, industrial look. The highway overpass is a must have.
Layout height from the floor is 59.5" With the overpass and the buildings towering overhead and most all track being at 2" to 5.5" above that height, I think it will look really imposing.
Control is via RC, so no layout wiring to worry about except lighting. Having said all that, this is my 3rd layout and the previous 2 where in N and simple loops. None progressed beyond beyond track laying and some basic scenery. So this layout will take awhile to complete and with school and work, even longer. Although HO has a great selection, and N fits a lot into a small space, I've never been this happy working on a model railroad. It's very easy to work with for me.
Wasn't easy to tell from the trackplan link what is going on in the lower left corner- after looking at picture link, I'm still not sure. Certainly from the plan, I had no idea that there was an uphill switchback involved--but that's a good scenic move.
I would build the removable piece across the entrance next--easy to build, just plywood, and track. While I am all for point to point operation, some sort of a continous run is very nice to have--particularly if it isn't really obvious (not exactly easy in your case - but worth building- IMO- anyway) worst part of build will be maintaining alignment between fixed shelf pieces and movable piece--but being in 1/48 you are lucky, because things will bump across gaps in the rail that 1/87 (or smaller) will drop a wheel into.
Too late now, but unless you are over 6' in height, the shelves are slightly too high. A layout that is armpit height gives enough of an eye level view. If higher, it is difficult to reach across foreground to re-rail a car--or whatever-- near the wall. Again my opinion.
Staging in the closet--while one of your limited options --will be hard to access. To me, a single staging track should be accessible to swap cars out by hand. Otherwise, it is only storage. Not much you can do in your case, and with a continuous run run you lose even that.
I love you work habits--just like mine! S**t all over the place--where the **** are the pliers--you are a kindred spirit, and have the gumption to show it like it is!
____________________ Fix it again, Mr Gates--it still works!"
Video should be up by 7:30PM PST. Annotations will be added later.
(I love you work habits--just like mine! S**t all over the place--where the **** are the pliers--you are a kindred spirit, and have the gumption to show it like it is!)haha Yeah I was thinking about cleaning up each section for pictures but when I'm on a roll I'm afraid of doing anything that will distract me because then I lose all interest in building and just sit there, staring at the shelving and planning in my head. You are right about the staging. I shouldn't call it that, more like track where I can hide (store) the train when not in use or just to give it the appearance of going somewhere. Having said that, the single track in the closet is very easily accessible for me and any car swapping will most likely happen there. Also I am learning sooo much on what to do and not to do on my next layout. Also what I like and dislike. Like the height issue, definitely lower next time. Originally I built the layout for an HO scale layout that wasn't going to have any kind of grades, then got interested in N scale three years later. Finally five years later I bought the Atlas O GP60 and two cars. That purchase wasn't really planned, I was just browsing the internet and came across some O scale two rail layout and got interested. Then just out of curiosity to see what kind of product was available for O scale I found an online retailer, saw the GP60, whipped out the credit card and then thought "oh sh** what the hell am I going to do with two cars and an undecorated engine in O scale?". To make myself feel better I started designing a plan on paper to fit the available space and bought some old Atlas used track on ebay. Once the track arrived I started to actually see how big the scale was and thought building a turnout would be a piece of cake. Building the turnout was also a desperate way of justifying all this spending to me (telling my rational side to shutup). So I downloaded a turnout template from handlaidtrack.com and quickly discovered how not so easy it was to bend, file(dremel helped) and shape the rail. I used some basswood that matched the ties on the flextrack and staples cut down so one end was extremely short to just hold down the rail by its base and the other end about 3/8 long to go into the ties. But before using staples as spikes I tried using Gorilla glue on the straight rail, which actually worked out pretty well. The turnout was a bit tight near the points but I fixed that later after getting the NMRA track gauge and before installing on the layout. Then I just started building. One aspect of O scale that I really think helped me start building was that it simply was to big for my space. My previous plans in N scale where way to grandiose and where way beyond my skill level. With O scale my plan was so simple, the initial plan took maybe 10 minutes to think up. I really need to make a video to better explain the layout, and I will........... someday.
Last edited on Fri Nov 18th, 2011 02:30 am by avel