| Moderated by: .
||Page: 1 2 3
| Posted: Thu Sep 19th, 2019 05:37 am
|Joined: ||Sat Jul 5th, 2014|
$30 is hard to beat.
I regularly cut strip wood using the 'Byrnes' table saw.
Yes, it is a bit spendy,
but on the other side of the equation,
it is probably the most used power tool in my shop.
| Posted: Thu Sep 19th, 2019 07:21 pm
W C Greene
A few years back, a good friend "made me buy" his new 'Skil' bandsaw.
This isn't a big industrial saw, but has a 9" throat, and is easy to use.
I put a fine tooth blade on it, and when properly set up,
I can cut 1/32" boards easily and cleanly.
Balsa is the easiest and cheapest.
Ever look at how much basswood chunks go for ?
I do have some nice redwood fence boards that can be cut up also.
My real problem is that I have about 20 or 30 years of wood hoarding,
so whatever size I need is "around here somewhere".
I still use my old balsa stripper for little stuff,
but that bandsaw is great for model work and "real world" projects.
I bought a small table saw once and gave it away,
after it threw a chunk of wood at my head.
It was my fault, but after that I decided to buy what I needed,
and not get whacked in the head !
That's my story & I'm sticking to it...
It doesn't matter if you win or lose, its' how you rig the game.
|Joined: ||Thu Feb 6th, 2020|
|Location: ||Illinois USA|
I am a retired shop teacher and carpenter, so I'm comfortable around table saws.
I offer my technique here, for milling strip wood on a full-size (12" in my case) table saw,
to those who are comfortable with table saws.
I got the basics from a woodworking website I cannot recall, and made a few adjustments.
Hope my description and photos give enough info. to understand how I made and use it.
I use a "finishing" blade for this, as it has a narrow kerf and a large tooth count.
I also use a push stick.
I glued a 1/2 by 3/4" wood spline to an old shelf that had a smooth laminate on it,
and slid it carefully into the blade, to make it into a zero-clearance auxiliary table,
on top of my saw's cast iron table top.
It is held in place laterally by the spline,
and longitudinally by a clamp (not seen) at the off-board end.
Note that the moveable fence ends just before the blade.
This is to mitigate the binding and subsequent kick-back that can occur,
when very narrow pieces are ripped with a conventional setup.
Not seen is the long, thin wood splitter,
I insert into the kerf of the auxiliary table top to the left of the blade
Along the right edge of the shelf, I attached a fixed fence with glue and screws from the bottom.
To this fixed fence, I then attached a moveable fence, it is adjusted by 2 pairs of carriage bolts.
One pair is shown below.
The upper carriage bolt is threaded into the fixed part of the fence,
but not threaded into the moveable, left part.
It serves to move it predictably 1/16" per turn, as it's a 16 TPI thread.
The wing nutted bolt is fixed into the left fence piece,
and has a clearance hole in the right, fixed piece.
After I adjust the two fences, I fix the distance between them with the wingnuts.
I typically start with 3/4" or less stock,
if larger than that, I will rip it down conventionally w/o the auxiliary fence.
I also stand to the side, as I do occasionally get small pieces kicking back,
but since they are not in a bind situation, they are less exciting.
Here's some old redwood fence I milled for a trestle.
I have ripped down to 1/8" by 1/16"
Last edited on Tue Jan 11th, 2022 02:11 am by Almostretired
Mark from Illinois
Current time is 05:22 pm
|Page: 1 2 3 ||