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Shoulders
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Hi all
Alwin asked about getting good 90% angles on one of his threads, Alwin is a excellent modeller and you must check out his threads and take a look at his fine work.
Just thought a would post this in here as well, most of you guys may know how to do this already but for the few who don't this may help.
I went to an engineering school were I learnt a lot of technics. I still cant get the perfect right angle but it will help you to get as close as possible to that perfectly square right angle.
At engineering school I did the following:-
I used engineer's blue or a marker pen to colour the bass, scriber, steel rule and an engineers square for marking out.
1st
colour the brass using engineers ink or marker pen
2nd
Scribe the brass along one edge with a scriber and steel rule.
3rd
Place the sheet brass with the scribed line vertical in a smooth soft jaw vice and cut down words with a piercing saw just out side the line you wish to cut (Not inside).
2nd
Reposition the brass sheet so the line is now horizontally positioned in the vice. With the use of a large very fine and dead flat file, file the brass along the full length one stroke at a time in one direction only going away from you until you reach the line. (Whilst doing this constantly check with a steal rule by holding the steel rule against the cut edge/line and then holding it up to the light, if you see any light then the cut is un-even and if there is no day light can be seen all the way along length then the cut is straight.
This now give you a piece of brass with a dead straight edge to work from.
4th
Making a 90% cut
Check the square is square by drawing a 90% line with the square on a piece of scrap, flip the square over and draw another line. Hopefully the line is exactly parallel as the first.
5th
Now we can start drawing out the 90% cut we wish to make on the sheet of brass by holding the square on the dead straight edge of the brass sheet we are using. When happy scribe the sheet and then use the same cutting and filling methods as used as mentioned previous. This should give you a dead straight 90% cut.
The piece of brass, plasticard or wood must have one straight edge to work from, having a good square with no straight line to work from doesn't give you a 90% angle. Any bowing or wavy line on the edge we are working from means the square will sit -or+ of the 90% angle you wish to make.
I hope this helps and I have explained it clear enough. I was never good at English (grammar and spellings).
Kind regards Dan
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Daniel
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Paglesham
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Good advice, there, Dan.
I tend to use the tops of my vice jaws as a straightedge for speed.
I also like to use a 3 square saw file. Being double ended, you get 6 goes at a cut before having to clean it up.
Also, use CZ120 sheet. it's free cutting quality and doesn't clog your files.
Martin
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Manifestly it is better to use simple tools expertly than to possess a bewildering assortment of complicated gadgets and either neglect or use them incompetently. ( L.T.C.Rolt) Blog @ http://oddsoracle.blogspot.co.uk/
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Alwin
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Hi Dan and Martin,
Thanks for the tips.
Martin you mentioned CZ120 sheet. I've never heard of this until now. When I google this I only found English pages. How different is it compared to normal brass? Can you really cut it with a knife?
Alwin
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Bernd
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Alwin wrote: Hi Dan and Martin,
Thanks for the tips.
Martin you mentioned CZ120 sheet. I've never heard of this until now. When I google this I only found English pages. How different is it compared to normal brass? Can you really cut it with a knife?
Alwin
It's engraving brass. Apparently quite soft.
http://www.columbiametals.com/products/brass/cz120
Bernd
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Tramcar Trev
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Its got lead in it which means its free machining. Ok a tip, because I do not own a guilotene to cut sheet metal with ( its on my list with a trillion other things and they are expensive in smaller sizes) I find leaded brass sheet cuts very neatly with an Olfa Plastics cutter, dont try and "hook in" just drag the blade (you should get a small quantity of swarf) over the sheet till its halfway through and it will break like most plastics....
You can get them at most decent hardware stores or online; http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/OLFA-13mm-Plastic-Laminate-Heavy-Duty-Cutter-PC-L-/261388977962?pt=AU_Hand_Tools&hash=item3cdbff472a
The blades can also be sharpened with a fine diamond hone.
____________________
There once was a man who said Damn!!
I perceive with regret that I am
A creature that moves
in predestinate groves
I'm not a Bus, I'm a tram
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Paglesham
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Alwin,
CZ120 and, in extruded form, CZ121 are grades of brass as Bernd says, intended for engraving. It is certainly not soft. But it is very brittle, which may be why some people cut it as Trev describes. I've never tried that in all my years of working with it.
I always buy mine from engravers as offcuts. They tend to do 1 and 2 or 1.5mm thicknesses.
All my brass masters were made in CZ120. The advantage shows when it's time to engrave the door shuts and window frames. When polished it looks more like gold than gold does and is so much nicer to work!
It also gets called leaded brass, half hard or silicon brass.
Cheers,
Martin
____________________
Manifestly it is better to use simple tools expertly than to possess a bewildering assortment of complicated gadgets and either neglect or use them incompetently. ( L.T.C.Rolt) Blog @ http://oddsoracle.blogspot.co.uk/
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Herb Kephart
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OK, you folks that use the engraving brass, how do you rate it VS nickel silver- a material that is virtually unknown on this side of the big puddle, for scratch building? Pros? Cons?
Herb
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Paglesham
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Oh, Nickel silver every time, Herb, IF you can get it. It works better, solders better and takes paint better.
Looks so much nicer before paint, too. I use 1mm sheet for my little NG masters for N-Drive.
Martin
____________________
Manifestly it is better to use simple tools expertly than to possess a bewildering assortment of complicated gadgets and either neglect or use them incompetently. ( L.T.C.Rolt) Blog @ http://oddsoracle.blogspot.co.uk/
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Paglesham
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Damn! This site is SO slow to load! Could one of those be removed?
I'm not a patient man with computers!
Martin
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Manifestly it is better to use simple tools expertly than to possess a bewildering assortment of complicated gadgets and either neglect or use them incompetently. ( L.T.C.Rolt) Blog @ http://oddsoracle.blogspot.co.uk/
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Kent K
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Martin,
Loading speed is a function of your Internet connection and the horsepower of your machine. It may be time to upgrade either one or both. I am using an Intel I5 machine with 32 gigabytes of memory and a one megabyte per second ISP. I have no complaints about the speed of this site or any other.
Ken
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Kent K
In a world without walls and fences, who needs Windows and Gates
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Paglesham
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I think I have that kind of memory on this as it was originally configured for a high end Flight sim by the chap who gave it to me and my little pootah man tells me it has "some serious kit" in it. Beyond that, I neither know nor care!
As to the connection,it is what it is and it ain't, in bow and arrow country here, going to get better. No glass tube super speed likely here. There are only three houses in this lane.
Having said that, this is the third machine on which I've had Freerails and all have been fairly to very slow to load. Compared with any other forum I've been on. I am now not on any other forum, choosing to stay with Freerails. I'd just forgotten that this one was slow. It also doesn't give me any sign that anything is happening, hence I click "Reply" again. Eventually I get two or three in a row!
No matter, I'll just click Reply and go to make tea.
Cheers,
Martin
____________________
Manifestly it is better to use simple tools expertly than to possess a bewildering assortment of complicated gadgets and either neglect or use them incompetently. ( L.T.C.Rolt) Blog @ http://oddsoracle.blogspot.co.uk/
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Tramcar Trev
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Paglesham wrote: I think I have that kind of memory on this as it was originally configured for a high end Flight sim by the chap who gave it to me and my little pootah man tells me it has "some serious kit" in it. Beyond that, I neither know nor care!
As to the connection,it is what it is and it ain't, in bow and arrow country here, going to get better. No glass tube super speed likely here. There are only three houses in this lane.
Having said that, this is the third machine on which I've had Freerails and all have been fairly to very slow to load. Compared with any other forum I've been on. I am now not on any other forum, choosing to stay with Freerails. I'd just forgotten that this one was slow. It also doesn't give me any sign that anything is happening, hence I click "Reply" again. Eventually I get two or three in a row!
No matter, I'll just click Reply and go to make tea.
Cheers,
Martin Martin I live in the Antipodes and we have the planets 3rd slowest internet, the only slower places are Easter Island and The Maldives/Canary Islands..... I have fibre to my house from a pillar about a KM away and the guy who came and did the cabling told me "Mate you have superfast net here" Hmmmmm not so sure about that, its constantly crashing and can be as slow as a wet week in Binalong.... Im not a guru but if you're using wireless it will be slower than cable and if you are more than 1Km from an exchange where even in the UK presumably the copper transposes to fibre things slow down exponentially and for reasons that I dont know some sites are slower to load than others. So will that be English Breakfast, Darjeeling or Orange Pekoe?
____________________
There once was a man who said Damn!!
I perceive with regret that I am
A creature that moves
in predestinate groves
I'm not a Bus, I'm a tram
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Tramcar Trev
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Oh hell yeah! Give me nickel silver anyday over brass but due to cost restaints/availablilty brass holds the day. Now I have some brass that is MAGNETIC, yeah true honest injun... It must have some nickel in it....
____________________
There once was a man who said Damn!!
I perceive with regret that I am
A creature that moves
in predestinate groves
I'm not a Bus, I'm a tram
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Salada
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My own super fast cutting method is to use thin sheet, blued and marked exactly as previously described. Being a lazy, idle chap I then scribe very heavily with an old Stanley knife EXACTLY on the scribed line.. Into the vice jaws, a few quick work hardening bends back and forth and Bingo, dead straight finished accurate cut in one go. Well, it works for me.
Regards. Michael
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Paglesham
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To be honest, I've never tried the score and snap method for brass, but the famous model car builder, Gerald Wingrove, used it when he was turning out his models. And they were 5 figure sums!
Trev, we don't have fibre optic here and we are about as far from the exchange as you can be. BT tells us that the exchange is due to be "unbundled", whatever that means. They've been telling us that for years.
It's not that slow to download stuff generally, just that Freerails is sometimes very slow to load a post. Sometimes it's instant. Odd.
Martin
____________________
Manifestly it is better to use simple tools expertly than to possess a bewildering assortment of complicated gadgets and either neglect or use them incompetently. ( L.T.C.Rolt) Blog @ http://oddsoracle.blogspot.co.uk/
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