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Salada
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That mysterious U.S. modelling stuff known as "Lightweight Spackle" is finally available here in the UK (off the shelf at ToolStation branches). Amazing, a full tub seems to weigh little more than the volume of air it displaces (or maybe they sold me an MT tub ?).
QUESTION : Once opened, what is the shelf life of the re-sealed tub ? I want to play with a small amount but I am not ready for a full size application.
QUESTION : How is it best applied or spread ?. With a wetted spatula or blade ? By fingers ? Or brushed on ?
QUESTION : What is it's adherence power to Card ? Ply ? Paper ? Extruded styrofoam ?
Any & all answers gratefully received.
Regards, Michael
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Herb Kephart
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Michael--
I can tell you how to extend the shelf life for quite a long time. Once done using it, smooth up the material left in the tub, and put a layer of that really thin see through plastic----Saran Wrap in this country. Tuck down around the edge to exclude all air. Works on any of the water based spackles. Probably work with paint also, but would be a real mess to put on top whats left in the can, and may sink over time.
All of the application ways you suggested work. Your choice.
Sticks fine to card, ply, and paper. Sticks fine to set, raw plaster, but wet the plaster first -- or else the plaster sucks the moisture out of the spackle. Painted surfaces reduce adhesion slightly, but not a whole lot. Never worked with foam, but I think Mr Greene uses it. Wake him up in the middle of the night (US Central Daylight time,) and ask. Might learn some new Texan cuss words in addition.
H
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Fix it again, Mr Gates--it still works!"
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Salada
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Thanks Herb.
Some UK wall fillers work well from part used tubs if a THIN layer of water is added to the contents before sealing the lid (& stored upright obviously). Any idea if this might work with Spackle ?.
"Waking up Woodie" - let's see, GMT - 5hr, then - about another hour I guess; so "ideal" time would be about 08.00 am GMT ! What's it worth ??!!.
Texan cuss words ? Probably not much I ain't heard before.
Cheers, Michael
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W C Greene
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Golly gee whillikers! OK, you woke me up and here's what I think. Remember that I am always second guessed by some who have NEVER built anything but I will try to answer as best as I can.
ANSWER:Do as Herb suggested and if you have a large "zip lock" plastic bag then put the sealed can inside and zip it up. This should last till' the cows come home (maybe forever!)
ANSWER:Chicken should not be eaten with the fingers, they don't taste as good. Oh yes...apply the spackle as you wish. If you are doing concrete then a spatula works best. If you are doing Mother Nature than the FINGERS work best. And if you are applying it over styrofoam then brushing or any other method works well. You might thin it with a bit of water for brushing and clean the brush out quickly since it sets up before you know what's happenin'...
ANSWER:Spackle sticks well to plywood and styrofoam, the ply should be thicker than 1/16" or so because the water in the spackle may warp thin stuff. Card? I don't know, I don't use that but would imagine that it will stick but probably warp cardstock. This stuff has water in it so paper materials might be affected.
TALKING TO WOODIE: Anytime you can catch me and if I don't feel like talking then...tough tacos! Naaw, call anytime, if it's the middle of the night here, I may or may not hear the phone. Them's the chances you takes...
BTW-Lightweight Spackle is the SAME as Woodland Scenics "foam filler", they put $1.00 worth in a plastic tub and charge $14.95 for it. Why? Because it's MADE FOR MODEL RAILROAD USE and as they all know, we gots lots of dinero!
Woodie
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It doesn't matter if you win or lose, its' how you rig the game.
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pipopak
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Spacking compound may get moldy even from a just opened tub. I always try to use it ASAP. Jose.
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Junk is something you throw away three weeks before you need it.
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Salada
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My thanks also to Jose & the Sage Of Dallas.
Excellent explanations Mr Greene, you make me feel (almost) competent with this mysterious, new to the UK Spackle stuff before I even start, which will be a while yet - soon be outdoor music festival time again so all things RR modelling go on hold.
That well known Yankee impersonator, Colonel Saunders of Kentucky, always described his "food" as "fingerlickin' good" - maybe that was just for us uneducated Brits ?.
'Golly gee whillikers' - now that I ain't never heard before.
Thanks & Easter Bunnies etc. Michael
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Mr Stumpy
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Are we talking about drywall "Joint Compound?" I get this in small tubs from Lowe's and it works well for anything that needs to look like concrete, stone, brick, or pavement as it has the right texture. It also carves well.
Joint Compound seems to be a bit thicker than Woodland's "foam" product, so maybe it's not the same.
Stumpy in Ahia
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W C Greene
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Stumpy...no they are not the same. There is spackle and lightweight spackle...you may be thinking of "regular" spackle which is heavier and thicker than the lightweight stuff. There are so many brands out there and sometimes the same product is called by another name. There is drywall "mud" which is used for tape & bed work on cracks and seams. Actually, the mud works and looks like concrete so it would represent scale concrete, etc. without any coloring.
I use the lightweight spackle since it is easy to use and is truly lightweight and my layout(s) are all styrofoam so the weight factor wins with me. Different strokes...you know...
Woodie
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It doesn't matter if you win or lose, its' how you rig the game.
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Mr Stumpy
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Okay, I understand. Having used the Woodland Scenics item, I knew it wasn't the same as Joint Compound, but wasn't sure as to any similarity to spackling.
I have been doing small and Micro portable layouts on extruded Styrofoam since about 1999, and have used the joint stuff for paved roads and some "concrete" work about as long on them. I learned about Joint Compound a long time ago from an older model railroader who had been doing it for years because he preferred it to mixing regular plaster.
The comment about Woodland Scenics and other hobby outfits repackaging common materials and raising the price a LOT is correct. I have used their "Plaster Cloth" over the years and thought it was a really neat scenery material, if rather expensive.
Quite by accident, I was in the local hospital ER (for my wife) and saw the same kind of plaster impregnated cloth being used in the setting of a broken forearm! I asked about it and was told that they bought large rolls of the stuff from a medical supply house for a few dollars per roll!
I haven't followed up on this because I probably wouldn't be able to buy it in wholesale quantities, nor would I need that much anyway. Maybe I missed an opportunity to get into the scenery materials business?
Probably not.....
Stumpy in Ahia
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chasv
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Drs use a self hardning fiberglass cloth now it comes in many colors but do not get on skin as the color sticks better than a majick marker and you can remove it with a razor knife
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Charles
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mabloodhound
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What Herb and Woodie said. Cover the entire inside of the tub with plastic wrap and I even let it come over the top edge and then snap the cover back on tight. Will stay perfectly usable until the next time although I have had it dry out after a couple of years storage.
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Dave Mason
D&G RR (Dunstead & Granford) in On30
“All tyranny needs to gain a foothold is for people of good conscience to remain silent.” ~ Thos. Jefferson
“Those who hammer their guns into plows will plow for those who do not.” ~ me
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Salada
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Thanks Dave.
Regards, Michael
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