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7mm D.C.C. 'O' Gauge - In The Australian Outdoors
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 Posted: Sun Oct 25th, 2015 06:14 am
   
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Robert Comerford
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A quick coat of paint and filing out the coupler pocket and screw it all together and here we are.
I think it might be time to get back to the engine.
Time to do siderods and trailing bogie methinks.


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 Posted: Sun Oct 25th, 2015 10:31 am
   
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Bob D
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Lookin good Bob :2t:

How did you do the rivets?

Bob D.



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 Posted: Sun Oct 25th, 2015 11:09 pm
   
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Robert Comerford
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Hi Bob, the rivets are the decal type that Archer, Micro Mark sell.
Mine are from Micro Mark.
My first use of them and very easy to do.

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 Posted: Mon Oct 26th, 2015 12:28 am
   
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Bob D
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I have some of them and used them on a SAL boxcar I made, but I had trouble getting them to stick to the plastic (unpainted) fishbelly side sills:





I think Seaboard was the only RR to ever have these 40' Double-Door, on opposite ends, boxcars.  To make it harder on the modeler, they used Dalman style trucks, try finding those in O scale (the ones I have are old Keil Line trucks with not much detail).

I have some of the staggered rivet decals and may give them a try soon.

Bob D.

Last edited on Mon Oct 26th, 2015 12:36 am by Bob D



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 Posted: Mon Oct 26th, 2015 01:45 am
   
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Robert Comerford
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Hi Bob, I normally use a semi gloss clear over the decals to keep them in place before applying the finishing layers of paint but this time I used the top coat as I have done on few occasions before.
regards
Bob

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 Posted: Mon Oct 26th, 2015 09:08 am
   
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Bob D
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Thanks Bob, I think putting them on an unpainted surface was what I did wrong. Should have treated them just like what they are...decals :doh:

Bob



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 Posted: Mon Oct 26th, 2015 09:58 am
   
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Robert Comerford
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You could give them a couple of hits with decalset or something more aggressive like solvaset to settle them down then give the model a coat of clear. I didn't have any decal solvent on hand to hide the carrier a bit better only micro sol. Plenty of weathering needed to distract the eye :>)

Bob

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 Posted: Wed Oct 28th, 2015 09:10 am
   
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Robert Comerford
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Trailing truck constructed and siderods assembled. Too much rain and hail to run at the moment.




regards
 Bob Comerford

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 Posted: Wed Oct 28th, 2015 04:25 pm
   
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Bob D
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Starting to look like a steamer now Bob :Salute:

How much soldering is involved in these kits?

Bob D.



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 Posted: Wed Oct 28th, 2015 11:24 pm
   
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Robert Comerford
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Hi Bob the tender is the main soldering job. The buffer beam assembly has some more and the valve gear and siderods are some more basic soldering jobs. The rest of the assembly is epoxied or drill,tap and screwed where I want it to come apart for servicing.
I would use the term 'kit' very advisedly. It is more 'assisted scratchbuilding' a la 1940's offerings in the US. This was one of a very small run of various NSWGR items offered for sale some years ago. Now off the market.

I have a modern kit for a 36 class 4-6-0 that will no doubt have plenty of soldering jobs to be done. But it will be made precisely with the fat bits cast and the thin bits etched and everything will be supplied. It is made by DJH in the UK who make first rate kits in a variety of scales for customers all around the world. I built several of their offerings in HO. Those modelling British prototype around the world in O gauge have a large range of similar kits to select from via a range of manufacturers. Given the ongoing support for British 7mm scale I have often been tempted. :>)


I guess being a smaller railroad and thus not popular with manufacturers you have to rely on conversions of models of the more popular lines when it comes to steamers for the SAL. I see they had some articulateds. That would need plenty of area such as outdoors to do them justice in O gauge.
regards
Bob

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