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Return To HOn30 After 50 Years ...
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 Posted: Fri May 20th, 2022 10:28 am
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Helmut
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David

The surface of the shell is looking quite grainy,

is this only on the photo ?




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 Posted: Fri May 20th, 2022 04:17 pm
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David Laughery
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Helmut

The piece is pretty grainy.
I'm hoping a coat of paint will hide the grain.

Some of the cars I've been sharing in this Thread,
are remarkably smooth, especially the underframes,
so I am not sure why this has to be a problem.

Maybe someone can shed some light on this issue ?

Regards, Dave L.  





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 Posted: Fri May 20th, 2022 04:28 pm
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David Laughery
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Helmut

These pieces from Justtrainsandstuff
show a lot less grain.

Regards, Dave L. 





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 Posted: Sat May 21st, 2022 04:17 pm
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David Laughery
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I've trimmed away as much of the end sills as possible,
without losing the steps.

But it is not enough to have swing for the couplers on the trucks.
I think this could have been better engineered.

Narrower steps at the ends and a wider cut out for the couplers,
would have made this a practical application. 

It doesn't look like the designer had a Kato 11-105 chassis
on hand when the drawing was made.

I'm disappointed with Shapeways on this one.

The project is on hold while I decide to remove the steps,
or to put the whole thing away for now.

Regards, Dave L.  





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 Posted: Sun May 22nd, 2022 11:48 pm
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David Laughery
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I spent the day looking through all my N-scale trucks,
thinking there may have been a pair with extended couplers,
that would clear the steps on the engine shell.

I was not successful.

I think it's going to come down to losing the steps,
if I want to make this work.

After a  closer look at the Kato chassis,
I think it has only two axles powered,
and one has a traction tire.

I would have to figure a way to get some weight in the shell.

Regards, Dave L.





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 Posted: Mon May 23rd, 2022 12:39 am
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oztrainz
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Hi David

Would it be possible to change the steps
to side-mounted rather than end-mounted ?

Under the cab end works OK because they line up under the cab doors.
At the front under the radiator this shouldn't be a problem space wise.

The steps could be as basic as a U-shaped piece of wire,
bent up and glued to the running board.




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John Garaty
Unanderra in oz
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 Posted: Mon May 23rd, 2022 01:00 am
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David Laughery
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John

That's a terrific idea !

:thumb:.

Before I go any further with this project,
I want to see how much the two axles can pull.

I've decided to add a little weight under the roof and hood,
and run the test on a section of straight track,
so that no truck swing would be needed.

I'll keep you posted.

Regards, Dave L.


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 Posted: Mon May 23rd, 2022 01:03 am
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oztrainz
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Hi David

Glad I could help.

I can usually solve everyone else's problems
except my own.

;)




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John Garaty
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 Posted: Tue May 24th, 2022 01:44 am
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David Laughery
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There was just enough space,
between the inside of the shell and the Kato chassis,
to glue three one quarter nuts to add weight.

A friend is going to give me a tire balancing weight,
to put inside and glue to the inside cab roof.

I'll then run tests to see what this little engine can pull.

I'm leaning towards John's suggestion
to remove the cast steps and replace with wire steps.

Thanks again, John.

Regards, Dave L.





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 Posted: Tue May 24th, 2022 10:14 am
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Helmut
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I have used pieces
(cut with an abrasive diamond wheel on the Dremel)
of tungsten welding rod for those tiny 'Eggerbahn' locos
that out of the box show an extremely bad weight distribution,
pickup problems, and marginal pulling power.

I glued and packed them into every free space
reasonably available inside the hood.

Cured a lot of inherent problems.




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