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David Laughery
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I've been working in Gn15 for a while,
but now in a wheelchair I need a project I can manage while siting. 

I hope I can share my experience in this forum.

Back in 1972 the series of articles in RMC on Thatcher's Inlet got me into HOn30,
but the running qualities of N scale steam in those days,
made it difficult to adapt any engines for this scale. 

Regards, Dave L.





David Laughery
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The availability of the Minitrains passenger set,
really caught my attention at a train show,
and I was back in HOn30 again. 

Dave L.





David Laughery
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While thinking about what I would be able to do for a little layout,
I started a simple project by installing interiors and passengers in some of the green cars I had bought,
before splurging on the complete set  (they come in brown and green). 

Dave L. 





David Laughery
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Over the years I have been stashing away HO buildings, figures, vehicles and other bits and pieces,
knowing my interest in HO narrow gauge would someday surface again. 

I've worked on other little projects recently,
and I hope to share those with you in this thread. 

Thanks for reading. 

Regards, Dave L.





David Laughery
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I am thinking a small, seaside, steamboat landing town,
as my theme for an HOn30 layout of about 2x3 feet,
something I can work on sitting at the dining room table. 





I think you can get the idea of what I would like. 

Regards, Dave L.


David Laughery
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I've shared this photo on my Gn15 thread,
but it is a scene that I have in mind for the little HOn30 layout.   





Michael M
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David,

I've been very tempted by some of the Minitrains offerings.
 
With the wealth of HO scale available,
it would be very easy to put together a convincing layout.

Personally I would opt for some kind of mining or mountain scene,
with definitely continuous running, small and portable to take to train shows.

Not that I need another project. 

And with the modeling budget already strained,
don't know where the additional funds would come from,
unless I gave up eating.

But, it is tempting.


David Laughery
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Michael

There is a big train show this weekend,
and it is probably good that I am not going,
as the dealer with all the Minitrains is there.

Because I was into N scale for many years,
I have a good supply of material to convert to HOn30.

Regards, Dave L.


David Laughery
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I found a bunch of these little loco shells,
and tried cutting them down for use in HOn30.

I shortened and sectioned them, and they will work well, I think.

The finished cab is just sitting next to the boiler and is not attached. 
Original is on the right.  

Regards, Dave L. 





W C Greene
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Howdy David, do you happen to remember (back in the 1970's)
the Sango brass HOn30 outside frame 2-6-0?
I had a couple of them, wish I still did!
They were cool little lokies which looked pretty much like the SR&RL 2-6-2's.
I wonder if there are any still around and can imagine how much one might cost these days!

Woodie


David Laughery
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Woodie

I sure do remember them.
As a school teacher they were way out of my budget then.

I found a photo of one on Google Images,
and the price for it used was $300 (still out of my budget!).

I am going to have fun converting some of my N scale steam engines to HOn30,
using parts from Shapeways.

Regards, Dave L.


David Laughery
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Because I will be using converted N scale engines with the Rapido couplers,
I converted one of the passenger cars to a transition car. 

I had a lot of  four wheel trucks from converting N scale to Micro Train couplers,
so I used one of them on this combine. 

It was not a simple exchange,
because I had to remove part of the new car to make it ride level. 

My big finger broke the truss rod,
it'll get fixed some day. 

Regards, Dave L.  





David Laughery
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Here is one of my planned projects,

an N scale loco with a modified cab and boiler from a full sized HO shell behind it.

Regards, Dave L. 





Jim Fl
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Will be looking in on your progress, Dave.
Your plans seem straight forward.

Woodie, one of the Sango 2-6-2s sold recently on ebay for about $200.
Said it was incomplete, needs work.
The pony and trailing trucks were definitely missing.

I've been wobbling between HOn30 and On30, leaning towards the small size,
IF I can resolve that I can go simple RC for it.
I know I can, for the On30.

Looking at doing the 2-6-2 conversion of a Bachmann N scale mech,
with kit from Marsh Creek, and a tender from Myner Models.
Hopefully the tender will have the room for the RC components.

Jim F


David Laughery
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Jim,

I happen to have one of those tender shells and took some quick measurements. 

I get (approximate) 1.5 x .5 inches and about 3/8 inches deep. 

It is deeper under the water bunker part of the shell. 

Regards, Dave L. 





David Laughery
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I got out some of my projects today. 

Here are cabs in various combinations. 

The white one is a Shapeways,
and the others are ones I have cut down from the original HO boiler. 

The cab in front needs finishing. 

The original shells are in back, left and right.  

Regards, Dave L. 





David Laughery
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Here is a better shot of the Shapeways cab next to the HO boiler. 

Regards, Dave L. 





David Laughery
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Another planned project is converting a MDC 2-8-0 to HOn30. 

I have a Shapways kit designed for this engine. 
A cab, stack and domes, and a front pilot (not in the photo),
and a longer tender shell make up the kit. 

I will remove the boiler from the chassis, cut off the domes,
and add the new parts and re-paint. 

Finished locos are shown on the Shapways web site. 

Regards, Dave L.





David Laughery
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A while back I had the notion that I could convert my N scale layout to HOn30.

But, being N scale, would the HO trains fit the tunnels ?

Here is the result. 

I didn't actually run a train through the tunnel so I don't know how it will work.

But they will fit through the portals. 

Regards, Dave L. 





Tileguy
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Your engineer just applied for a job with me...


Said something about you being one dangerous crazy SOB.

On a mission to get people killed....


I just humored him.  ;)


David Laughery
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I am guessing that there are not too many HOn30 kits out there,
but a PA company has a few to offer to us. 

At a show last year I picked of two of the three kits they offer. 
The flat car kit has two models, and the tank car is a single kit. 

In following posts I'll show the kits and give a short review. 

Regards, Dave L. 





David Laughery
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The flat car kit contains two complete models,
less trucks and couplers. 

The kit is very complete with small detail parts,
and includes decals. 

The resin castings are nicely detailed,
and a separate frame and planked deck are provided. 

Thanks for looking

Dave L. 





David Laughery
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The tank car kit is more elaborate and has quite a few small details in the bag. 

Dave L. 





David Laughery
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There is an underframe, deck, sub-frame, and the tank casting. 

Three sheets of decals are included. 

I am impressed by these kits and hope to actually build them some day. 

A caboose is the third kit in the series. 

Regards, Dave L. 





Tileguy
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Looks like Fun Briefcase Projects...

Take 'em with you anywhere.  :)



David Laughery
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Todd, I only hope my old eyes and wobbly fingers are up to it.

Regards, Dave L.



David Laughery
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My fondness for water scenes,
and the boats that would accompany them,
have prompted my collecting boats. 

Kits of many scales has provided hulls and parts,
for models I someday would like to scratch build. 

Here some old Lindburg kits gave me hulls. 
Notice that one of them has been cut to make a waterline hull. 

Regards, Dave L. 





Tileguy
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You have a good start on outfitting a small port area.

A Boat rental place and a fish company for sure....

I see a couple of trawlers with nets draped all over....
Or 1 trawler and a lobster boat.
 
But that's just me.


he he  :glad:


David Laughery
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Todd, I can see it too. :wave: Regards, Dave L.

David Laughery
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I am still looking for the perfect hull for a little steamboat,

to ferry passengers to a rail connection. 

Regards, Dave L. 





Jim Fl
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Seaport Model Works makes a couple.

http://seaportmodelworks.com

And there is this one,
a bit pricey, but makes up into a beautiful model.

https://www.interactionhobbies.com/HO-7302-CR-LAMB-Sternwheeler-Ship_p_64.html

Jim F


David Laughery
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Thanks, Jim, for the links.

Some of their models would make dandy little steamers.

Regards, Dave L.


David Laughery
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Here are some hulls in my "collection." 

They are from kits once made by Maritime Art. 

They are nice resin castings,
but not exactly what I am looking for to make that little steamer.

Regards, Dave L. 





Tileguy
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That Link had some nice little ships, the great lakes fishing boat was spot on,
for the ones used by Severtsons fisheries for Smelt in lake superior.

( don't ask how I know that, I was young once LOL )

Modified it might make a nice little ferry...


Tileguy
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https://cdn2.bigcommerce.com/server3700/07c20/products/72/images/595/painted_port_front_quarter_reduced__88344.1420340981.235.250.jpg?c=2


O scale but a nice lil boat.  :)


David Laughery
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Thanks, Todd, for sending the links.

I modeled boats, before I crashed model airplanes, before I modeled trains.

:)

Regards, Dave L.


David Laughery
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Fifty years ago, my first project in HOn30,
was to make some passenger cars. 

I started with MDC Overton cars,
and cut a section out of the middle of the car to narrow it. 

This involved cutting the body, under frame, and roof. 
As I remember I used 'Grandt Line' trucks under them.

I found a few of these Overton cars at a show a few years ago,
and bought them, thinking I would try again. 

When the Mini-Trains cars became available,
I put the project way on the back burner. 

I wish I had kept the originals. 

Regards, Dave L.   





oztrainz
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Hi Dave


For your ferry Google up the "Sabino". Deerfield Laser did one in HO -

http://www.deerfieldriverlaser.com/DRL-H-614.html.

It looks like their HO boat range is not showing in their catalogue at present.


However, their S scale tug should give you a flying start -

http://www.deerfieldriverlaser.com/DRL-S-701.html
 
Ditch the towing bollards front and back,
and extend the deck behind the bridge over the back deck,
and you're almost done.


David Laughery
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John

That kit is still listed under their steam boats.
I guess it is still  available.

I have a great book on the steamships of Maine's Cosco Bay,
and I am familiar with the Sabino.

Thanks for the links.

Regards, Dave L.


David Laughery
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Because I would like to model the 1920s in HOn30,
I am always on the lookout for suitable vehicles. 

There does not seem to be much available today. 
Jordan kits were nice, but they are no longer available. 

I found some strange, bagged kits at a show a few years ago,
but don't know the manufacturer. 

Some trucks I found in England years ago are nice,
but a bit oversize for HO. 

Dave L. 





David Laughery
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This is one of those bagged kits.

Dave L. 





David Laughery
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Although toys, with a little work these might work. 

Wheels are the problem. 

Again, I think they are a bit large for HO. 

Regards, Dave L. 





Michael M
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Wiseman has some 1929 Packards: 

https://wisemanmodelservices.com/HO-Scale-HOn3/HO-NATIONAL-MOTOR-COMPANY-PACKARDS



David Laughery
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Thanks, Michael, for the link.

I was not aware they were available.

I will check them out.

Regards, Dave L.


David Laughery
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Health problems prevent my continuing work in HOn30,
until some time in the future.

Best regards to all!

Dave L.


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Hello David

Sorry to hear of your health problems.  :boogie:

Hope you have a quick return of health,
and get back to doing what you enjoy.


:thumb:  .............Peter.


David Laughery
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Thanks, Peter. 

I've loved HOn30 for almost fifty years. 

Regards, Dave


David Laughery
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Fifty years ago I made some HOn30 passenger cars,
by cutting down HO scale Overton coaches. 

I found this photo of one of the Overtons,
and one of the Mini-trainS coaches of today, side by side. 

I had to cut the roof, body, and underframe, down the middle,
and take a little off each half. 

Glued back together it made a fairly credible narrow gauge car. 
Grandt Line had trucks to put under the new bodies.

As I remember I had a three car set, combine and two coaches. 
I never did find a good running little steamer to pull them. 

N scale was just beginning, and good running steam mechanisms,
did not exist (that I could afford). 

I wish I had kept those cars today. 

Regards, Dave L. 





David Laughery
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I've just discovered a new supplier on Ebay.

He has a line of HOn30 3D-printed cars and kits,
for converting N-scale engines to HOn30.

His prices are very reasonable ($15 or less) and shipping is free.
Search 'HOn30" and his stuff will come up.

Here is my kit for converting a Bachmann 0-6-0

Regards, Dave L.  





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Dave,

Interested in seeing your progress.

Is the Bachmann 0-6-0 a decent runner ?


David Laughery
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Michael

The latest version of Bachmann's 0-6-0
runs pretty well, I'm told.

These have new can-motors,
and can be identified by the automatic couplers,
and not the Rapidos.


The old versions were not good runners.

Most on eBay are the old versions,
listed at the new price.

:f:

Regards, Dave L.


David Laughery
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Today three HOn30 kits arrived from eBay.

These are from the dealer I mentioned above.
I had ordered a boxcar, a tank car, and a boxcar with open doors.

These are great little kits.
There is no flash, and the 3D-printed detail is well executed.

These little cars are tiny, I put a Q-tip in the photo for scale.
It is hard to see...





David Laughery
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The tank car is a wooden tank sitting on a bulkhead flat.
A small detail is the hatch for above the filler neck.   





David Laughery
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The smaller of the boxcars has open doors,
doors are included.   





David Laughery
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I especially like the underframes.

I am hoping that eventually this dealer will make individual parts available.
To see these, go to HOn30 on eBay, and scroll down the list.

Regards, Dave L.  





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Re. Bachmann 0-6-0

Do you refer to the USRA switcher ?


I am not familiar with Bachmann N-scale,

but remember there was a 0-6-0T type also.


David Laughery
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Gerold.

Yes, it is the 0-6-0 switcher with the slope back tender.

Be sure to get a new version, with the new motor.
The old ones ran poorly. 

Regards, Dave L.





David Laughery
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I just discovered that you can go to the seller's store via eBay.

All of his HOn30 and On30 items are offered.

Regards, Dave L.


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Is there a way to tell the older version of Bachmann's 0-6-0 from the newer one ? 

Maybe a stock number ?


David Laughery
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Michael

I'm going by the fact that the latest versions
have Micro-train style couplers instead of Rapidos.

Also close looking on eBay on the engines with the new and old couplers,
shows a big motor block sticking out back of the cab of engines with Rapidos.

I am told the newer versions have a can motor.
All this is determining how I tell the difference.

Here is a photo with the motor sticking out the cab.
Hopefully someone here can verify this.

Regards, Dave L.  





Helmut
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A detailed description of the model

and its internal changes

can be found here


David Laughery
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Helmut, Thanks !!

This answers all my questions.

:Salute: :Salute:

Regards, Dave L.


David Laughery
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Just discovered the trucks with Rapido couplers I've been saving for my HOn30 cars,
extend way past the car underframes, and will separate the cars when coupled.

The Microtrain truck with a medium extended coupler (on the left car)
looks like the better choice. 

Regards, Dave L.  





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As it turns out,
after forty years of putting Microtrains trucks on my N scale cars,
I have a good supply of suitable HOn30 trucks.

Regards, Dave L.  





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Spacing seems to be about right with these trucks.

I'm waiting for some small screws to arrive,
so I can mount them.

Regards. Dave L.  





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My tiny screws arrived today,
but I can't find my tiny drill bits.

I'll have to wait until new ones arrive.

:bang:

Regards, Dave L.   





David Laughery
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With my new drill bits to pre-drill screw holes, and a few simple tools,
I finally got my first pair of trucks mounted.

With no depth perception and wobbly hands,
it was quite an adventure.

:us::us:

Regards, Dave L.


Update.

The couplers seem to be catching on the end sills.
I'll have to add Microtrains washers and do this all over again.





David Laughery
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There is no issue with the trucks rubbing
on the new hopper cars from this supplier.

One small problem
is that there are no pilot holes on the truck bolsters,
so one must drill them for the mounting screws.

Regards, Dave L.  





David Laughery
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Here is the link to this dealer's store.

Regards, Dave L.

https://www.ebay.com/str/jtstrainsandstuff?_trksid=p2047675.m3561.l2563


David Laughery
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I solved the interference issue
by trimming away the lip on the end of the underframe
instead of adding the washer.

Here is my roaster of HOn30 cars.

I have two more pulpwood flats coming
and now need to think about a locomotive to pull these.

Regards, Dave L.  





David Laughery
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It turns out that even with the trucks attached these cars
are so light that they have a hard time staying on the rails.

I had to glue weights, quarter inch nuts, in them.

The hoppers will have to have loads
to cover the glue and nuts.

Regards, Dave L.   





David Laughery
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Two small bulkhead flats are ready to go.

I'm trying to think how I can weight them.
Some sort of metal load will have to do it.

Regards, Dave L.  







 







corv8
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David Laughery wrote:  
I'm trying to think how I can weight them.
Some sort of metal load will have to do it.


How about a thin layer of lead sheet
between the body parts ?

The kind that roofers used
until it was outlawed ?


David Laughery
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Gerold

It is a good idea,
but sheet lead is pretty hard to find around here.

Some kind of metal crates or barrels might work,
but raise the C.o.G. too high on the car.

I'll be on the lookout for something.

Thanks, Dave L.


David Laughery
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Last night a friend and I
dug out some of the HO buildings I've collected over many years
and tried to place them on a proposed plan we had drawn out full size.

We had room on the plan
for only a fifth of the buildings stored in three cartons.

:bang:

Regards, Dave L.   





David Laughery
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I was thinking of converting this Japanese steamer,
into a credible HOn30 engine, to pull all the new little cars.

I have the kit to convert the Bachmann 0-6-0,
and was curious to see if it could be adapted to this engine.

It is not apparent how the boiler is removed,
and the tender is too short.

I'm thinking I can't use this engine for a conversion,
and will have to buy a Bachmann to use with the kit.

Regards, Dave L.   





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Dave

What about that wooden tank car ?

Did you have to add weight ?

I've been thinking about picking up a few of those cars.


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Michael,

The car seems to have enough weight to track pretty well.

Actually, all the cars, when coupled up
and run on my N-scale layout, ran without derailing.

That includes the little bulkhead cars without additional weight.
I had put weights in the hoppers and boxcars.

Go figure...

Regards, Dave L.

:Crazy:  




Last edited on Sat Mar 19th, 2022 07:46 pm by David Laughery

David Laughery
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I ran the lightweight bulkhead cars near the front of the train,
with the heavier cars behind, and there was no problem...





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I used a MDC N-scale 2-8-0 to pull the train.

I have the Shapeways kit to convert it to HOn30,
and with cars to pull, it is time to think about doing that.

Regards, Dave L.  





David Laughery
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Here are the Shapeways parts for the engine conversion.

Since the engine has tender drive I cannot use a larger tender,
but would have to widen this one.

Regards, Dave L.  





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Dave,

Those cars look good.


Been toying with the idea of doing some small mining operation in HOn30.

I even have one of those HO/HOn30 crossings put out by AHM tucked away.


David Laughery
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That guy has small hoppers and gons,

that would be good mine cars.


Regards, Dave L.


David Laughery
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I've found some cast resin crates
I was going to use in this little boxcar.

The bigger crates wouldn't fit through the door,
so this might not be a good idea.

I've glued metal nuts in the caboose.

I am not sure I really need the extra weight,
since the light cars ran well on my N-scale.

I should mention that JT Trains and Stuff
is the source of these cars
and has a store on Ebay.

Regards, Dave L.  





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Hi Dave  :wave:


Your new HOn30 freight train looks ...

... T :cool: :cool:   C :cool: :cool: L  on the river bridge !  :thumb:


No one would ever believe the town behind ...

... is populated by MUNCHKINS !!  :shocked:


The 3D-printed HOn30 cars are lookin' great.

Those 3D-printed hoppers are amazingly intricate.





Your G-scale guys checking out their garden railway stock ...  :shocked:

... is pretty funny & amazing to see the HUGE scale difference.





I got the N-scale 'Bachmann' U.S.R.A. 0-6-0 tender loco ...

... way back in the late '70s or early '80s sometime.  :time:

Mine was the original, with the 'proper' straight tender ...  :old dude:

... that came in the blue plastic box, with clear acrylic lid !


Its running was impaired a bit, by poor weight distribution ...

... & tendency to PULL WHEELIES ! due to cab-mounted motor.


Also the drawbar linkage to the tender, could have been looser ...

... the drawbar encouraged the locos 'wheelieing' somewhat.


Amazing difference, some lead in the boiler, over the drivers.  :thumb:

Loosening the drawbar & some 'lecy pickup trucks, would ACE it.


Nice 3D-printed HOn30 loco body & tender.  :)


:java::moose::dt:


Si.


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Si.

I just can't seem to click
the "buy now" box for the Bachmann 0-6-0

I keep putting it off.

:w:

I remember the one I had years ago.


Yep, I am having a lot of fun with the HOn30 cars.

I still love the Gn15, but this is a little break
from the large scale models and vehicles.

Regards, Dave L.


David Laughery
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I continue to run these little cars on the layout,
to make sure the bulkhead cars don't need additional weight.

So far there is no problem with derailing.

Regards, Dave L.















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The proportions of the little caboose didn't seem right.

I removed an eighth of an inch from the body,
and it seems better to me.

I placed an unbuilt kit next to my finished caboose for contrast.

Regards, Dave L. 










David Laughery
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With the cupola attached,

the little caboose sits about right,

and fits through my tunnels on the layout.

(just barely)

:glad:

Regards, Dave L.  





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I've added these little gons
from JT Trains and Stuff, to the roster.

He is always adding new styles,
to the list of available HOn30 cars.

Regards, Dave L.  










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Dave

There is a pitfall with those cabeese.

When the cupola is occupied,
the feet of the guys up in there,
would be dangling behind the baggage door.

I had this situation with an Ambroid combine,
so shifted the cupola a little
(well, a little more would have been better)
toward the passenger compartment.

Originally it was located over the door.

Anyway, I like all your small freight cars ! 





David Laughery
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Thanks, Gerold.

I had to decide on which end to put the cupola.

I reasoned that a ladder up to a sitting area in the cupola,
could better be placed in the baggage area instead of sitting area.

I wonder how it was in a real caboose ?

I'm having a lot of fun with this HOn30,
but it is SO TINY !!

Regards, Dave L.  

P.S. That is a great model !


corv8
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David Laughery wrote:

I had to decide on which end to put the cupola.

I reasoned that a ladder up to a sitting area in the cupola,
could better be placed in the baggage area instead of sitting area.

I wonder how it was in a real caboose ?


Dave

I have fallen in love with HOe again after 40 years too,
and yes, this things are sooo small.

I skip DCC and lighting for the moment,
as my eyes are not up to the task. 


Here are some pics.
of the area under the cupola of real cabooses.

Caboose Photos

Basically, underneath the cupola,
shouldn't be a door or any accomodations.

Most practical would be cabinets / lockers.

You can cheat a little,
as the occupants need only room for their feet
in the center of the cupola.

Like I did on my work caboose.


corv8
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Afterthought:

How about making the window next to the baggage door blind
(or the middle window)
and put the cupola over it ?

This would be sufficient for leg room.

Or, you simply tell the door was locked permanently,
when the car was converted from a tiny combine,
and the cupola was added.


David Laughery
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Gerold

I'll go with your last suggestion.

:apl:

Regards, Dave L.


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I've found that to make clearance for the coupler boxes,
on these old Rapido coupler equipped N-scale trucks,
I needed to remove the lips on the end of the underframe.

I'm not sure if that would be necessary,
if Micro-Trains trucks were used.

Regards, Dave L.  





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Today I started to test fit the Shapeways kit for the MDC 2-8-0
I got the boiler off the chassis and removed the N scale cab.

I can't get the new HO cab to seat completely down on the boiler,
so I'll have to do some fiddling to get it right.

:sad:

I was not expecting the boiler to be a metal casting,
so the anticipated easy removal of the small domes,
will now require cut off discs and grinding with the Dremel.

This is not going to be as easy as I was hoping.

Regards, Dave L.  


Update:

The kit I have is for the Bachmann 2-8-0 and not the MDC.
No wonder it is not a perfect fit !





David Laughery
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I've finalized my plan for a 2'x6' HOn30 layout.

I have the frame and Luan plywood top in the garage.

The water area will need a lot of bridges.
I have enough N-scale track, turnouts, and bridges to build this.

There will be no tunnels or high mountains,
so that I can reach all parts easily from my wheelchair.

Wiring will be pretty simple...
One black wire, and one red wire.

As soon as the weather warms up, we can work on the deck,
my son and I can begin the project.

Regards, Dave L. 





David Laughery
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I finally decided to buy a Bachmann 2-6-0
and this seller was offering one at a fair price.

It was stated as new.

His photo of the detached side rod one one side,
suggested that it would be a simple repair.

I've included his photo.


Not only was it not one little side rod needing attached,
BOTH sides of valve gear were totally apart hanging loose.

This is not the first time I have been burned on eBay,
by incomplete descriptions or misleading information.

All I can say is buyer beware.
The seller does not accept returns.

Regards, Dave L.  










David Laughery
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After being in touch with the seller
he has offered to take back the engine.

I'll be out $26 on shipping both ways.

:td:

Regards, Dave L.


David Laughery
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My HOn30 modeling has not had a good week.

My vision problems led to drilling the truck mounting holes
slightly off center on the truck bolsters of the two hoppers.

Efforts to fill the holes and re-drill were not too successful.

:sad:

Regards, Dave L.  





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" This is not the first time I have been burned on eBay,
by incomplete descriptions or misleading information.

All I can say is buyer beware.
The seller does not accept returns."



Hi Dave

I have made over 1800 buys on eBay.
I don't recall EVER being "burned", as some say.

If a description is incomplete or misleading,
or if photos do not show items faults,
the Seller HAS NOT followed 'The eBay Rules',
& all bets ARE OFF as far as 'No Returns' !

'Does Not Accept Returns'
Is VOID straight away, in the case of such listings.


It may take some effort to start an 'eBay Case',
but you should NOT be out by a single Dime here.

Anyone who gets "burned" IMHO is a bit daft,
seeing as there are provisions to cover a buyer.

Use them, that's what they're there for !
They work, IF you apply their rules & system.

:us:

Eddie


David Laughery
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Eddie

The seller has offered to take the engine back, but I suspect
he will not reimburse the almost $30 shipping both ways and sales tax.

Just getting to the post office will be a difficulty.

I have bought items that arrived with missing parts,
and incorrect trucks (old Rapido couplers instead of the described MT ones).

Once I bought an N-scale car with ruined paint on one side,
that was not shown in the photos.

And now this latest problem with the N-scale engine.
We'll see how it all turns out.

Regards, Dave L.


oztrainz
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Hi Dave

You have a private message with some suggestions.

Good Luck.


David Laughery
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Today I started the conversion of the MDC 2-8-0 boiler

by using two little holes to mount it to a piece of wood with little screws.





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I was hoping that the Dremel 1.5 inch blade

would make a quick job of cutting off the old domes.





David Laughery
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The blade worked well and cut off the first dome quickly.

I was surprised to find the second dome was hollow

and was attached as a separate piece.  





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After considerable grinding and hand filing, this is close to final shape.

After taking this photo, I did a little more work with the file.  





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Some inside trimming of the cab enabled a preliminary trial fit.

I'll have to fill the space between the cab front and boiler top.  

Regards, Dave L.  





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Update:

The seller will take back the engine,
and refund all my expenses.

I am very pleased that I do not even pay return postage.

This is my first return on eBay,
and I have to say it was a good experience. 

Regards, Dave L.





David Laughery
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Today I glued parts together and primed.

I have a lot of little areas to fill and smooth.

The 3D-printed parts are not the best fitting,
and have irregular surfaces.

The final finish will be flat black,
with a little weathering.

Regards, Dave L.   





corv8
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I know well about surface issues of 3D-printed parts,

however the picture of the current status looks good.




David Laughery
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I would have liked to add handrails to the boiler.
I have some HO stanchions and wire.

But drilling the hard metal boiler for them,
was beyond my abilities right now.

The surfaces of the parts are very rough,
it really shows with the primer.

I am hoping the final paint and weathering,
will hide most of it.

Regards, Dave L.


pipopak
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The surfaces of the parts are very rough,
it really shows with the primer.


I usually put a thin coat of Bondo glazing
& spot putty stage 2 before priming,
then sand smooth.

Works great on metal and plastic.

Jose.


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Thanks for the tip, Jose.

:thumb:

Regards, Dave L.


pipopak
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It is 1 part (no mixing),

can be used over paint,

dries fast and sands easily.


I love it.

Jose.


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The engine is about finished,
and I am very disappointed with the results.

Ill fitting, and rough texture of 3D-printed parts,
detract from the nice proportions of the model.


I've had the parts for a few years,
maybe the technology has improved since then.


I am considering scrapping the boiler and cab,
and starting over.

The tender and chassis is one unit,
so I could fit a new superstructure easily,
if I can find something suitable. 

Regards, Dave L.  





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I have these possible replacements,
from some train show finds years ago.

I need to think about this.

Thanks for following along.

Regards, Dave L.  





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I spent a lot of today trying to reassemble
the handrails on one of the engine shells.

Looks like an easy job.

You've heard of a one armed paper hanger...
I'm a one eyed handrail hanger.

:td:  :td:

I got one in and secured with super glue.
Tomorrow I'll try the other side.

Regards, Dave L.


Update:
I did get the second handrail in the next day.





David Laughery
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Here is a mock-up of a new shell for the Roundhouse 2-8-0
using one boiler with the handrails, and another 3D-printed cab.

The tender is from Bachmann,
and I've started to widen it, to match the width of HOn30.

I would not need it with the 2-8-0, as it has a tender drive.

The cab will need work to smooth it,
I think I'll try Jose's tip and use the spot-putty. 

I wish parts were available in styrene plastic.

Regards, Dave L.





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Either cab will require work to make a complete shell.

Thanks for following along.

Regards, Dave L.  





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I see you have mastered those pesky handrail stanchions,

Congratulations !


Both boiler & cab combinations look good.

Will you build two locomotives from them ?


You can never have enough locos.


David Laughery
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Thanks, Gerold.

I'm waiting until the financial department
OKs funding a new Bachmann 2-6-2
with the hope these shells will work on that chassis.

Steam engine chassis are hard to find,
other than the Bachmanns.


The little KATO diesel drives are available
on eBay and Amazon and not too expensive.

Shapeways has a number of shells for these drives.

Regards, Dave L.


David Laughery
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If I were to do another MDC 2-8-0 conversion...

I would just remove the front dome,
since I now know it will pop off,
and hollow out the Shapeways rear dome,
to fit over the original.

I do really like the Shapeways cab,
and would work to make it better.


I'd be able to keep the handrails, too...

Getting the cut-off disc in,
to remove the rear dome messed them up,
and I had to eliminate them from the final model.

Regards, Dave L.  





David Laughery
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Justtrainsandstuff has this little pickle car kit for the HOn30 modeler.

Regards, Dave L. 










David Laughery
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Over the years I've collected a lot of bottles of paint,
and the contents have separated into pigments and liquid.

Efforts to shake into usable paint were not too successful.

Looking through the junk drawer,
I found this double curtain rod holder.

A minute spinning with a drill,
stirred up the old bottle of paint pretty well,
and I could paint my HOn30 boxcars.

Regards, Dave L.





David Laughery
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For now my final HOn30 additions,
until I can start a small layout to run these tiny trains.

It has been quite a change,
from my Gn15 and large scale vehicle projects.

Thanks for following along.

Regards, Dave L.   





David Laughery
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I was going to post this photo on April 1st,
and show my new scale/gauge invention.

Sadly, Amazon held up an on-time delivery,
of my fake large penny, and I didn't get it done.

So.... APRIL FOOLS !!

:us:

Regards, Dave L.





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Finding a photo of a small diesel,
gave me ideas for a small loco for a layout.

Digging through my HO bits and pieces, for two cabs and an old Canon cab kit,
I was wondering if I could mate one of them, to an N-scale GP or switcher unit.

Regards, Dave L.  















David Laughery
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Today the loco shell arrived from Shapeways.

It mates to a Kato 11-105 chassis.
I had to remove part of the end frame to seat the chassis in the shell,
and I'll have to remove more to enable the trucks to  swing properly.

It is a press fit,
but I'll put a little Aileen's Tacky Glue inside at the final attachment.
This will not be the simple shell on chassis project I was expecting.

Regards, Dave L.  










Helmut
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David

The surface of the shell is looking quite grainy,

is this only on the photo ?


David Laughery
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Helmut

The piece is pretty grainy.
I'm hoping a coat of paint will hide the grain.

Some of the cars I've been sharing in this Thread,
are remarkably smooth, especially the underframes,
so I am not sure why this has to be a problem.

Maybe someone can shed some light on this issue ?

Regards, Dave L.  





David Laughery
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Helmut

These pieces from Justtrainsandstuff
show a lot less grain.

Regards, Dave L. 





David Laughery
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I've trimmed away as much of the end sills as possible,
without losing the steps.

But it is not enough to have swing for the couplers on the trucks.
I think this could have been better engineered.

Narrower steps at the ends and a wider cut out for the couplers,
would have made this a practical application. 

It doesn't look like the designer had a Kato 11-105 chassis
on hand when the drawing was made.

I'm disappointed with Shapeways on this one.

The project is on hold while I decide to remove the steps,
or to put the whole thing away for now.

Regards, Dave L.  





David Laughery
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I spent the day looking through all my N-scale trucks,
thinking there may have been a pair with extended couplers,
that would clear the steps on the engine shell.

I was not successful.

I think it's going to come down to losing the steps,
if I want to make this work.

After a  closer look at the Kato chassis,
I think it has only two axles powered,
and one has a traction tire.

I would have to figure a way to get some weight in the shell.

Regards, Dave L.





oztrainz
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Hi David

Would it be possible to change the steps
to side-mounted rather than end-mounted ?

Under the cab end works OK because they line up under the cab doors.
At the front under the radiator this shouldn't be a problem space wise.

The steps could be as basic as a U-shaped piece of wire,
bent up and glued to the running board.


David Laughery
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John

That's a terrific idea !

:thumb:.

Before I go any further with this project,
I want to see how much the two axles can pull.

I've decided to add a little weight under the roof and hood,
and run the test on a section of straight track,
so that no truck swing would be needed.

I'll keep you posted.

Regards, Dave L.


oztrainz
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Hi David

Glad I could help.

I can usually solve everyone else's problems
except my own.

;)


David Laughery
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There was just enough space,
between the inside of the shell and the Kato chassis,
to glue three one quarter nuts to add weight.

A friend is going to give me a tire balancing weight,
to put inside and glue to the inside cab roof.

I'll then run tests to see what this little engine can pull.

I'm leaning towards John's suggestion
to remove the cast steps and replace with wire steps.

Thanks again, John.

Regards, Dave L.





Helmut
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I have used pieces
(cut with an abrasive diamond wheel on the Dremel)
of tungsten welding rod for those tiny 'Eggerbahn' locos
that out of the box show an extremely bad weight distribution,
pickup problems, and marginal pulling power.

I glued and packed them into every free space
reasonably available inside the hood.

Cured a lot of inherent problems.


David Laughery
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Thanks for the idea, Helmut.

Tiny engines always present problems.

I'll have about US $100 in this little engine,
that may only pull one or two cars.

:shocked:

I wish there were more choices for HOn30 steam.

The Minitrains engines are nice,
but impossible to find here in the US.

It is frustrating that I am having the same dilemmas now,
that I had back in the 1970s !

:sad:

Regards, Dave L.


David Laughery
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I tested the little engine on straight track,
and it pulled seven cars easily.

I was surprised, but pleased.
It probably won't do as well on curved track.

I'll continue the project,
and will remove the foot boards at each end,
and make new steps per John's suggestion.

I'm deciding between red or silver for the final color.

Yeah, I know,
I need to tidy up my work space just a little.

:shocked:

Regards, Dave L.





David Laughery
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With the steps removed,
and a little more cut out of the end sills,
the trucks are now free to swing.

I think this would have been an easy thing to do,
at Shapeways, during the design phase.

Such an easy drop-in project this could be,
if they had.

Regards, Dave L.





2foot6
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Good to see you are making progress....

:wave:

As for the bench clean up.... WHY ?

It will only get cluttered again,
and it looks OK to me.

Looks like my bench,
and most other modellers benches.

...........Peter.


oztrainz
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Hi David

Some red diesel inspiration for you on 2' gauge.


Albany at Victoria Mill - an 0-4-0 diesel hydraulic.


 

Some bogie diesel hydraulic locos at Tully Mill #8





and #4





Enjoy


David Laughery
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Thanks, John.

I see steps on the side, too.

:thumb:

Regards, Dave L.


David Laughery
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Finally able to do a little work on the tiny locomotive after a long illness,
I was able to secure a Cal-Scale headlight casting and a crooked stack.

I need to finish with steps and then decide on the final color. 

I'm happy to be back at a limited work schedule for this project.
Thanks for following along.

Regards, Dave L.  





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Hi David  :wave:


Lookin' good.  :thumb:


That lil' ol' vintage  Cal-Scale  headlamp ...

... is what parts diggin' on eBay is all about !  :bg:

NICE FIND !  :!:


I felt the pain BTW ! ...  :f:

... of no truck-mount pilot-holes !!  :f: :f:


It's good not to have full-holes, for screw choice ...

... but the lack of a centering indent, is a real PAIN.  L:


:java::moose: :dt:


Si.


David Laughery
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Thanks, Si.

Still deciding on color for this loco.
I have red and silver on hand.


The manufacturer of the hopper cars,
without indents for truck screws,
now includes a tiny hole for the screws.

One of the very few times my complaining,
actually made a difference !

Regards, Dave L.

:hyp:



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