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Steve P
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Printed the main roof with ASA last nite.
The ASA has much better detail.
The top part is PLA,
the bottom ASA.
Steve
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Steve
Beaver Lode Railway
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Tom Ward
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Steve - Wow! That really made a difference. The flat surface is much smoother too. What's the difference in Cura (or Octoprint?) settings? Just temperature? Also, on your previous post about the hotbox, can you give more info? What's that do? How does it work? Cool stuff. I just reloaded my printer filament for the first time since I bought it. Still using PLA. I loaded it with an inexpensive spool I had bought earlier, ran it and didn't like the results. Put in a new spool of Hatchbox PLA, same settings, and got noticeable improvement. Interesting.
Tom
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Tom Ward
"When I die I want to go quietly in my sleep like my grandfather. Not screaming in terror like his passengers."
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Steve P
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Tom,
What's the difference in Cura (or Octoprint?) settings? Just temperature?
I have been playing with different settings, primarily extruder fan off, 260 degrees F, bed 90 degrees F.
When I get closer to what I want I will post them all. I still need to figure out where Cura keeps all the various configuration pieces. I believe its a combination of the "default setting" + custom settings, plus material settings,+ job settings. I think that means 3 or 4 different files. You HAVE to use a raft, or ASA peels off the bed within 4-5 layers. It has huge thermal stresses as it cools off. This causes major warping issues that PLA just doesn't have.
I am using OctoPrint in "passthru" mode (sic) where OctoPrint settings are ignored in favor of Cura settings.
Also, on your previous post about the hotbox, can you give more info? What's that do? How does it work?
It's also to deal with ASA issues. If it cools too rapidly (like in my 65 degree house) it warps like hell. The hot box keeps the temperature hot and constant, slowing the cooling process greatly. No heater needed, the heat given off by the bed and extruder are more than enough. My thermostat in the bottom of box is reading 100.2 degrees F right now as I print the main body.
I just reloaded my printer filament for the first time since I bought it. Still using PLA. I loaded it with an inexpensive spool I had bought earlier, ran it and didn't like the results. Put in a new spool of Hatchbox PLA, same settings, and got noticeable improvement.
I tried Hatchbox nylon and failed miserably...I let my roll of PolyMaker ASA get away from me and had a print fail when the filament was tangled over itself. Spent about 30 minutes rewinding half the roll.
I have been learning a lot from YouTube, but also a lot of mis-info out there. Basic problem is that everyone develops a set of "facts" that they believe is gospel, and which typically differ from many other sets of "facts".
I highly recommend this book.
The pictures are crap, but there is an offer in the book for quality .jgps and a PDF version of the book. You look up your problem and he gives both theory and practical solutions.
Steve
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Steve
Beaver Lode Railway
https://evvette.net/trains/
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Steve P
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Finished after 48 hours.
I had separation of the supports for the back of seats,
did a pause/resume cycle while I tried to clean up the mess.
Evidently I bumped something (or pause doesn't work properly),
causing a horizontal shift about 1/6 way up the print. 
It will suit my needs, will glue the roof and wheels on,
then place outside in direct sunlight for a 1 year UV/weathering test!
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Steve
Beaver Lode Railway
https://evvette.net/trains/
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Tom Ward
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Steve - That came out really nice. Very clean. So it appears the roof was printed in more than one sequence, yes? How many operations were involved in printing the body? Was there much cleaning up afterwards? I can’t get over how nice that came out.
Tom
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Tom Ward
"When I die I want to go quietly in my sleep like my grandfather. Not screaming in terror like his passengers."
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Steve P
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Tom,
That came out really nice. Very clean.
It is actually much rougher than the picture shows.
I used the settings to optimize for strength at the cost of smoothness.
It feels very strong, I can put a fair amount of force on it without breaking.
But these will be running on a hillside 300-400 feet from the patio/control station,
so you would need binoculars to see any imperfections.
So it appears the roof was printed in more than one sequence, yes?
Yes, roof is two pieces.
How many operations were involved in printing the body?
One. I wish he would have done the body in 4 or 5 pieces instead of 1,
48 hour print time is ridic!
Was there much cleaning up afterwards?
Other than cutting/prying out all the support panels there was very little.
Almost no stringing.
Steve
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Steve
Beaver Lode Railway
https://evvette.net/trains/
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Steve P
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I've shifted gears to printing the gangway boots that connect my SP Daylight passenger cars. So far I have the rear plate and the center bellows modeled. The front plate is more or less just a copy of the rear, so no big effort there. The white arches in the background,left to right, are my steps towards refining the geometry of the overall arch. The black boot on the left is the hard plastic MTH boot from a G-scale Daylight. The white boot on the right is printed from my design so far. This was done in PLA. The real thing will be printed with TPU or other flexible filament. Will install several micro-magnets on the front plates to cause them to couple.
Steve
Attachment: 2020-05-08-122356.jpg (Downloaded 48 times)
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Steve
Beaver Lode Railway
https://evvette.net/trains/
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Steve P
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Will be using Kadee 906/1906 body mount couplers.
Stock MTH truck mount couplers on the left,
Kadee body mount on the right.
Steve
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Steve
Beaver Lode Railway
https://evvette.net/trains/
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Steve P
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I have a few details to round out,
but the bellows looks like it should work.
I'm expecting a roll of TPU filament on Monday, we shall see...
Steve
Attachment: 2020-05-09-171411.jpg (Downloaded 152 times)
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Steve
Beaver Lode Railway
https://evvette.net/trains/
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Steve P
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So I just found something to occupy my free time. 
I should be able to use this to scan my HO scale articulated cars,
and create panels to slap onto the sides of my G scale passenger cars to convert them.
I have HO scale diner/kitchen/coffee shop articulated, mens/womens passenger articulated, tavern, baggage, etc.
Unfortunately MTH doesn't make any of these in Gauge-1. 
Steve
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Steve
Beaver Lode Railway
https://evvette.net/trains/
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Kitbash0n30
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While non-production of given models is aggravating,
you do get to create this adventure out of the thing.
And the diaphragm bellows you created looks grand.
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See y'all later, Forrest.
Screw the rivets, I'm building for atmosphere
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Steve P
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Printed 2 vestibules with the flexible TPU.
Typical "1st attempt" issues, de-lamination, etc.
But I don't think this design would ever be flexible enough...
Did some research and found that the Daylights also had an outer vestibule,
meant to maintain the streamlining look.
The G-scale cars don't have it, but the HO do.
Go to this page and scroll down to "Diaphragm Adjustments" to get a visual.
My next attempt will be to make something like this outer vestibule.
Steve
Attachment: 2020-05-13-073045.jpg (Downloaded 117 times)
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Steve
Beaver Lode Railway
https://evvette.net/trains/
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Steve P
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Si,
I finally received the replacements from MTH,
but they still have the wire slot on the wrong side.
I think I will use them first,
but after filing out the slot on the proper side and tapping the holes for bolts,
NOT the sheet metal screws MTH uses!!!
I bought myself a new camera body for xmas,
and am spending all my time learning to take panorama photos.
I want to master the technique well enough to shoot a 360 degree panorama photo set
(it takes about 24 photos stitched together with software)
on the Winter solstice from my observatory.
I can then install this panorama into my astronomy program,
giving the "feel" that you are inside the shell when using it.
The new camera also does video,
so it will be useful for documenting the Beaver Lode RW,
as I continue new work next Spring.
Steve
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Steve
Beaver Lode Railway
https://evvette.net/trains/
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Steve P
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Hi all,
I finally got around to finishing the repair of the GS4s.
I hadn't had much incentive with the weather as it is...
Tapped the motor mount side for M3 bolts,
and the mounting stud for an 8/32 bolt.
Seems fine.
But the more interesting 3D-print project of late,
is a negative holder that I made for some odd format
(somewhat larger than medium format)
negatives I found in the attic, of an old house on the site.
Not the holder itself,
but this picture that was among them.
I believe it is San Diego either immediately before or during WWII.
The above link is to the full sized image, approx. 12MB
Here's a thumb:
____________________
Steve
Beaver Lode Railway
https://evvette.net/trains/
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