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3D-Printing Gauge-1 Model Railroad Objects
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 Posted: Sat May 2nd, 2020 02:37 pm
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Steve P
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Printed the main roof with ASA last nite. 
The ASA has much better detail. 

The top part is PLA,
the bottom ASA.

Steve







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 Posted: Sat May 2nd, 2020 09:56 pm
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Tom Ward
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Steve - Wow!  That really made a difference.  The flat surface is much smoother too.  What's the difference in Cura (or Octoprint?) settings?  Just temperature?  Also, on your previous post about the hotbox, can you give more info?  What's that do?  How does it work?  Cool stuff.  I just reloaded my printer filament for the first time since I bought it.  Still using PLA.  I loaded it with an inexpensive spool I had bought earlier, ran it and didn't like the results.  Put in a new spool of Hatchbox PLA, same settings, and got noticeable improvement.  Interesting.
Tom



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 Posted: Sat May 2nd, 2020 10:50 pm
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Steve P
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Tom,

 What's the difference in Cura (or Octoprint?) settings? Just temperature?
I have been playing with different settings, primarily extruder fan off, 260 degrees F, bed 90 degrees F. 

When I get closer to what I want I will post them all.  I still need to figure out where Cura keeps all the various configuration pieces. I believe its a combination of the "default setting" + custom settings, plus material settings,+ job settings.  I think that means 3 or 4 different files. You HAVE to use a raft, or ASA peels off the bed within 4-5 layers.  It has huge thermal stresses as it cools off. This causes major warping issues that PLA just doesn't have. 

I am using OctoPrint in "passthru" mode (sic) where OctoPrint settings are ignored in favor of Cura settings. 



Also, on your previous post about the hotbox, can you give more info? What's that do? How does it work?
It's also to deal with ASA issues.  If it cools too rapidly (like in my 65 degree house) it warps like hell.  The hot box keeps the temperature hot and constant, slowing the cooling process greatly.  No heater needed, the heat given off by the bed and extruder are more than enough. My thermostat in the bottom of box is reading 100.2 degrees F right now as I print the main body.



I just reloaded my printer filament for the first time since I bought it. Still using PLA. I loaded it with an inexpensive spool I had bought earlier, ran it and didn't like the results. Put in a new spool of Hatchbox PLA, same settings, and got noticeable improvement.
I tried Hatchbox nylon and failed miserably...I let my roll of PolyMaker ASA get away from me and had a print fail when the filament was tangled over itself.  Spent about 30 minutes rewinding half the roll.

:bang:

I have been learning a lot from YouTube, but also a lot of mis-info out there.  Basic problem is that everyone develops a set of "facts" that they believe is gospel, and which typically differ from many other sets of "facts".

I highly recommend this book. 

The pictures are crap, but there is an offer in the book for quality .jgps and a PDF version of the book.  You look up your problem and he gives both theory and practical solutions.

Steve




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 Posted: Sun May 3rd, 2020 12:24 pm
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Steve P
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Steve







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 Posted: Mon May 4th, 2020 07:00 pm
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Steve P
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Finished after 48 hours. 

I had separation of the supports for the back of seats,
did a pause/resume cycle while I tried to clean up the mess.

Evidently I bumped something (or pause doesn't work properly),
causing a horizontal shift about 1/6 way up the print.  :shocked:

It will suit my needs, will glue the roof and wheels on,
then place outside in direct sunlight for a 1 year UV/weathering test!







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 Posted: Tue May 5th, 2020 01:00 am
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Steve P
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Glued and ready to go outside.   :glad:

Steve







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 Posted: Tue May 5th, 2020 02:15 am
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Tom Ward
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Steve - That came out really nice.  Very clean.  So it appears the roof was printed in more than one sequence, yes?  How many operations were involved in printing the body?  Was there much cleaning up afterwards?  I can’t get over how nice that came out.
Tom



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 Posted: Tue May 5th, 2020 12:18 pm
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Steve P
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Tom,

That came out really nice. Very clean.
It is actually much rougher than the picture shows. 
I used the settings to optimize for strength at the cost of smoothness. 
It feels very strong, I can put a fair amount of force on it without breaking. 
But these will be running on a hillside 300-400 feet from the patio/control station,
so you would need binoculars to see any imperfections.


So it appears the roof was printed in more than one sequence, yes?
Yes, roof is two pieces.


How many operations were involved in printing the body?
One.  I wish he would have done the body in 4 or 5 pieces instead of 1,
48 hour print time is ridic!


Was there much cleaning up afterwards?
Other than cutting/prying out all the support  panels there was very little. 
Almost no stringing.

Steve




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 Posted: Fri May 8th, 2020 08:41 pm
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Steve P
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I've shifted gears to printing the gangway boots that connect my SP Daylight passenger cars.  So far I have the rear plate and the center bellows modeled.  The front plate is more or less just a copy of the rear, so no big effort there.  The white arches in the background,left to right, are my steps towards refining the geometry of the overall arch. The black boot on the left is the hard plastic MTH boot from a G-scale Daylight. The white boot on the right is printed from my design so far.  This was done in PLA.  The real thing will be printed with TPU or other flexible filament.  Will install several micro-magnets on the front plates to cause them to couple.

Steve

Attachment: 2020-05-08-122356.jpg (Downloaded 42 times)



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 Posted: Fri May 8th, 2020 09:53 pm
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Steve P
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Will be using Kadee 906/1906 body mount couplers.
 
Stock MTH truck mount couplers on the left,
Kadee body mount on the right.

Steve







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