 |
| Moderated by: . |
Page: 1 2 3   |
|
| Posted: Wed Jul 15th, 2020 09:30 pm |
|
1st Post |
Alwin
Registered
| Joined: | Sat Jun 29th, 2013 |
| Location: | Netherlands |
| Posts: | 635 |
| Status: |
Offline
|
|
For a contest I'm building a diorama.
Rules of the contest are that the footprint size is A4 (210 x 297mm)
and the height is also limited to 297mm.
A background is not allowed.
You can choose any subject and scale that you want.
Sadly it is not allowed to post any pictures here until the contest has finished,
so be patient for the next 15/16 months.
I have chosen to build mine in 1:43 scale this time.
I have no name for it yet.
I can tell what I want to build,
but I prefer to show some prototype pictures that I use as inspiration or direct models.
This is a Ruston Hornsby locomotive.
If I'm correct these are built in a few different sizes.
While I build mine I realised that my model is a bit too high.
But I didn't change it.
A slate wagon.
What more can I say.
I try to scratch build as much as possible.
So far I didn't manage to make wheels by myself.
I tried to round some plastic pieces with the Dremel on sandpaper.
That didn't work. It wasn't square, but it was not round either.
Perhaps my Dremel axle is a little bit wobbly.
Something else that I don't even going to try are the figures.
Sculpting is not my thing. So I ordered some.
For the loco I have used my paper-cutter (Silhouette Curio) to make the parts.
The underframe is from styrene. Most of the other parts are paper.
I used the same materials for the wagons.
That's it so far.
Maybe I can show a little bit of the techniques I use, but that won't be much.
Alwin
|
|
|
| Posted: Thu Jul 23rd, 2020 02:25 pm |
|
2nd Post |
Kevin Johnson
Registered
|
Hi Alwin
I look forward to seeing this layout develop.
I really like mine type layouts and dioramas,
and especially the slate wagons and little Ruston loco.
____________________
Cheers
Kevin
|
|
|
| Posted: Thu Jul 23rd, 2020 04:20 pm |
|
3rd Post |
Lee B
Registered
|
I wish someone would make a RTR version of that locomotive in On30,
it looks very interesting!
Can't wait to see your progress,
I'm sure it'll look great.
____________________
-Lee
Commanding Officer, 796th Railway Operating Battalion (in On30 gauge), operating on the Stoney Creek branch of the ET&WNC RR
Photos of my layout: https://www.flickr.com/photos/53587910@N05/albums/72157668176638961
|
|
|
| Posted: Fri Jul 24th, 2020 01:09 pm |
|
4th Post |
| Posted: Fri Jul 24th, 2020 09:15 pm |
|
5th Post |
Alwin
Registered
| Joined: | Sat Jun 29th, 2013 |
| Location: | Netherlands |
| Posts: | 635 |
| Status: |
Offline
|
|
Thanks guys.
It will take a while until I can post some more photo's of the diorama itself.
@Helmut.
Thanks for the link.
I didn't even know that there are models made of this, they are not expensive either.
But I already made my own cars.
The only cost I had on these were for the wheelsets, about 2 Euro.
And of course some basic material.
Today I want to show you how I make some hooks.
It could be for the cars or a crane.
I start with a piece of solid wire.
I show something with copper wire, used for electricity in the house.
In the last photo I show a hook from a different material, not sure what it is.
It was from an old transformer, out of a computer?
The most important thing is that the wire is solid, and is a bit soft and easy to bend.
First I hammer down one end until it is flat.
On a vice or some other strong flat metal. Or an anvil if you have one.
Next step is to drill a little hole in the flat part.
As close to the round part as possible because of the bending.
After this step I thought that it maybe is better to start with the bending as the first step,
but I haven't tried that yet.
If the material is soft enough you can also punch a hole with a small nail and a hammer.
It helps to hold the wire with a clamp.
Shape the end until is round.
Maybe even shorten the flat part a bit.
Then bend the wire in the form of a hook.
Cut it to length.
Now it starts to look right.
Hammer down this part too.
After that you can't change the shape, so be sure you like it.
Now cut the point to shape,
and file it all down until you're satisfied.
For the size.
It is a bit too large for 1:43
The last photo with the other hook.
That material has some kinda red coating on it.
Most of it is gone, but there are still some red spots left.
Sorry for the bit blurry photo's,
but you get the idea.
Alwin
|
|
|
| Posted: Fri Jul 24th, 2020 10:08 pm |
|
6th Post |
Traingeekboy
Registered
| Joined: | Sun Aug 28th, 2011 |
| Location: | |
| Posts: | 516 |
| Status: |
Offline
|
|
This is awesome.
I've thought a lot about making small parts myself out of soft metals.
Even just fake nails for holding beams together.
Looking forward to seeing more of this.
1/43 is a truly odd scale selection.
Here in the USA we are used to 1/48 and 1/64.
I went off a bit with 1/55, but it runs on HO scale track which makes sense.
____________________
Did I ever mention that I like trains?
|
|
|
| Posted: Sat Jul 25th, 2020 06:05 am |
|
7th Post |
| Posted: Sat Jul 25th, 2020 03:44 pm |
|
8th Post |
Traingeekboy
Registered
| Joined: | Sun Aug 28th, 2011 |
| Location: | |
| Posts: | 516 |
| Status: |
Offline
|
|
Si,
I had a 'Lego' train set in the 60's.
I guess I was modeling in 1:43 scale without knowing it!
____________________
Did I ever mention that I like trains?
|
|
|
| Posted: Sat Jul 25th, 2020 07:07 pm |
|
9th Post |
Alwin
Registered
| Joined: | Sat Jun 29th, 2013 |
| Location: | Netherlands |
| Posts: | 635 |
| Status: |
Offline
|
|
Si. is right, that is actually 1:43.5
If you think about it, HO which stands for Half O is 1:87
So it is more logical that O is 1:43.5 than 1:48
For this diorama scale isn't that important.
Everything must fit together.
Gauge? I don't know.
I just re-gauged the wheelsets until I was happy with it.
Everything is going to be just a static model.
The wheels are all glued to the cars / loco.
There is just one piece of track which is going to be handlaid.
When the rails look parallel to the eye, well, then they are.
As long is the cars and loco fits on it.
Alwin
|
|
|
Alwin
Registered
| Joined: | Sat Jun 29th, 2013 |
| Location: | Netherlands |
| Posts: | 635 |
| Status: |
Offline
|
|
I tried some techniques for a plastered wall.
Not the fine stuff for in your house, but more a cement look.
The next bunch of photo's are just some practice pieces.
I start with blue foam. The kind of fine insulation foam type.
I bought mine at a craft store some years ago.
They have them in sheets of all kind of thickness.
From 1 or 2mm until some cm. I use 2 or 4 mm for walls.
I prefer the 4mm in some cases, but for plastered walls 2 mm works fine too.
The thicker sheet I have of 4 cm (40 mm) is a bit different.
It is harder to get a clean cut out of it.
I use it for the base of my diorama.
I used it also for the other two diorama's I made in the past.
So, this is my practice piece:
First a base layer of grey paint.
The technique for applying it is to stamp the pencil to the foam.
That gives a bit of a texture to the paint.
And my other practice piece with a bit lighter base color.
I tried with a course brush to stamp the second layer on.
I was hoping the first layer showed through but it didn't.
The texture was not really to my taste to try dry-brushing it.
Well, this was the result.
Time to think about the paint technique.
I also wanted to try if representing a crack in the plaster is possible.
One of the practice pieces had a small triangle in it.
I gently pushed the foam a bit apart, like in folding a piece of cardboard.
It cracked really nice actually.
It doesn't matter it the piece is not completely flat afterwards,
it is simple to bend it back and hold in place with a piece of wood or something.
The crack is seen in the photo above.
After some black paint in the crack:
I tried some washes on the paint, but the result was still a bit disappointing.
It doesn't get any better does it? The best thing, it is a practice piece.
Trying to get a different texture.
In an eureka moment I thought about using a sanding drum normally used in a power tool (Dremel).
That looks promising!
After the baselayer. Trying to keep the paint thin and thus the texture open.
This time with drybrushing a darker shade of grey on the base layer.
Some weathering try-outs.
Some enamels I tried didn't work so well.
It is hard to get the correct "streaking" effect with it on the foam.
Also some powders are used.
At the bottom and side some experiment in representing mosses.
On the side with a powder at the bottom with two slimy grime enamel paints.
This turned out more or less the way I want it.
I wondered if it also would be possible to represent concrete with it.
I mean the kind where the board-pattern of the formwork is a bit visible.
Maybe with two piece of coarse wood pressing it in the wood.
One after one, so you don't get any overlap.
I will try that out somewhere in the future.
Alwin
|
|
|
Current time is 09:48 pm | Page: 1 2 3 |
|
|
|
