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Alwin Registered ![]()
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For a contest I'm building a diorama. Rules of the contest are that the footprint size is A4 (210 x 297mm) and the height is also limited to 297mm. A background is not allowed. You can choose any subject and scale that you want. Sadly it is not allowed to post any pictures here until the contest has finished, so be patient for the next 15/16 months. I have chosen to build mine in 1:43 scale this time. I have no name for it yet. I can tell what I want to build, but I prefer to show some prototype pictures that I use as inspiration or direct models. ![]() This is a Ruston Hornsby locomotive. If I'm correct these are built in a few different sizes. While I build mine I realised that my model is a bit too high. But I didn't change it. ![]() A slate wagon. What more can I say. I try to scratch build as much as possible. So far I didn't manage to make wheels by myself. I tried to round some plastic pieces with the Dremel on sandpaper. That didn't work. It wasn't square, but it was not round either. Perhaps my Dremel axle is a little bit wobbly. Something else that I don't even going to try are the figures. Sculpting is not my thing. So I ordered some. For the loco I have used my paper-cutter (Silhouette Curio) to make the parts. The underframe is from styrene. Most of the other parts are paper. I used the same materials for the wagons. That's it so far. Maybe I can show a little bit of the techniques I use, but that won't be much. Alwin |
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Kevin Johnson Registered ![]()
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Hi Alwin I look forward to seeing this layout develop. I really like mine type layouts and dioramas, and especially the slate wagons and little Ruston loco. ![]() |
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Lee B Registered ![]()
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I wish someone would make a RTR version of that locomotive in On30, it looks very interesting! Can't wait to see your progress, I'm sure it'll look great. |
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Helmut Registered ![]()
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@Alwin The slate wagon and more can be found here -some are still in stock |
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Alwin Registered ![]()
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Thanks guys. It will take a while until I can post some more photo's of the diorama itself. @Helmut. Thanks for the link. I didn't even know that there are models made of this, they are not expensive either. But I already made my own cars. The only cost I had on these were for the wheelsets, about 2 Euro. And of course some basic material. Today I want to show you how I make some hooks. It could be for the cars or a crane. I start with a piece of solid wire. I show something with copper wire, used for electricity in the house. In the last photo I show a hook from a different material, not sure what it is. It was from an old transformer, out of a computer? ![]() The most important thing is that the wire is solid, and is a bit soft and easy to bend. First I hammer down one end until it is flat. On a vice or some other strong flat metal. Or an anvil if you have one. ![]() ![]() Next step is to drill a little hole in the flat part. As close to the round part as possible because of the bending. After this step I thought that it maybe is better to start with the bending as the first step, but I haven't tried that yet. If the material is soft enough you can also punch a hole with a small nail and a hammer. It helps to hold the wire with a clamp. ![]() Shape the end until is round. Maybe even shorten the flat part a bit. ![]() Then bend the wire in the form of a hook. ![]() Cut it to length. Now it starts to look right. ![]() Hammer down this part too. After that you can't change the shape, so be sure you like it. ![]() Now cut the point to shape, and file it all down until you're satisfied. ![]() For the size. It is a bit too large for 1:43 ![]() The last photo with the other hook. That material has some kinda red coating on it. Most of it is gone, but there are still some red spots left. ![]() Sorry for the bit blurry photo's, but you get the idea. Alwin |
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Traingeekboy Registered ![]()
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This is awesome. I've thought a lot about making small parts myself out of soft metals. Even just fake nails for holding beams together. Looking forward to seeing more of this. 1/43 is a truly odd scale selection. Here in the USA we are used to 1/48 and 1/64. I went off a bit with 1/55, but it runs on HO scale track which makes sense. |
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Si. Moderator ![]()
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" 1/43 is a truly odd scale selection " Hi T.G.V. ![]() 1:43.5 is almost always abbreviated to just 1:43 ![]() But 1:43.5 works out to exactly 7mm per foot ... ... so is actually quite convenient when measuring your stuff. ![]() Something I found out by accident, is that 'Lego'(TM) minifigures are 1:43 scale ... ... if you take 6' as being the height of a figure, they are exactly that ! ![]() 1:43 has always been a very popular scale for diecasts as well ... ... 'Corgi' and 'Dinky' and 'Hornby' etc. etc. to name just a few. There are plenty of excellent oDd finds on eBay in 1:43 scale as well. ![]() - - - - - - - AWESOME work Alwin ! ![]() Great to see you have found a way of Posting your modelling ... ... without giving the game away, on the 'whole deal'. ![]() We can't wait 12 bloomin' months to see your modelling work ... ![]() ... that diorama contest sounds good ... ... but HEY ! we don't want it to create a whole load of modelling RECLUSES ! ![]() The transformer wire is called 'Enamelled Copper Wire' ... ... & is just a thin insulation, so that more wire can be wound onto the transformer. It is kinda like polyurethane varnish, or similar. ![]() The wire used, is kinda just pretty soft normal copper, under the coating. ![]() GREAT hooks ! ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Si. |
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Traingeekboy Registered ![]()
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Si, I had a 'Lego' train set in the 60's. I guess I was modeling in 1:43 scale without knowing it! |
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Alwin Registered ![]()
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Si. is right, that is actually 1:43.5 If you think about it, HO which stands for Half O is 1:87 So it is more logical that O is 1:43.5 than 1:48 For this diorama scale isn't that important. Everything must fit together. Gauge? I don't know. I just re-gauged the wheelsets until I was happy with it. Everything is going to be just a static model. The wheels are all glued to the cars / loco. There is just one piece of track which is going to be handlaid. When the rails look parallel to the eye, well, then they are. ![]() As long is the cars and loco fits on it. Alwin |
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Alwin Registered ![]()
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I tried some techniques for a plastered wall. Not the fine stuff for in your house, but more a cement look. The next bunch of photo's are just some practice pieces. I start with blue foam. The kind of fine insulation foam type. I bought mine at a craft store some years ago. They have them in sheets of all kind of thickness. From 1 or 2mm until some cm. I use 2 or 4 mm for walls. I prefer the 4mm in some cases, but for plastered walls 2 mm works fine too. The thicker sheet I have of 4 cm (40 mm) is a bit different. It is harder to get a clean cut out of it. I use it for the base of my diorama. I used it also for the other two diorama's I made in the past. So, this is my practice piece: ![]() First a base layer of grey paint. The technique for applying it is to stamp the pencil to the foam. That gives a bit of a texture to the paint. ![]() And my other practice piece with a bit lighter base color. ![]() I tried with a course brush to stamp the second layer on. I was hoping the first layer showed through but it didn't. The texture was not really to my taste to try dry-brushing it. Well, this was the result. ![]() Time to think about the paint technique. I also wanted to try if representing a crack in the plaster is possible. One of the practice pieces had a small triangle in it. I gently pushed the foam a bit apart, like in folding a piece of cardboard. It cracked really nice actually. It doesn't matter it the piece is not completely flat afterwards, it is simple to bend it back and hold in place with a piece of wood or something. The crack is seen in the photo above. After some black paint in the crack: ![]() I tried some washes on the paint, but the result was still a bit disappointing. ![]() It doesn't get any better does it? The best thing, it is a practice piece. ![]() Trying to get a different texture. In an eureka moment I thought about using a sanding drum normally used in a power tool (Dremel). ![]() That looks promising! After the baselayer. Trying to keep the paint thin and thus the texture open. ![]() This time with drybrushing a darker shade of grey on the base layer. ![]() Some weathering try-outs. Some enamels I tried didn't work so well. It is hard to get the correct "streaking" effect with it on the foam. Also some powders are used. At the bottom and side some experiment in representing mosses. On the side with a powder at the bottom with two slimy grime enamel paints. ![]() This turned out more or less the way I want it. I wondered if it also would be possible to represent concrete with it. I mean the kind where the board-pattern of the formwork is a bit visible. Maybe with two piece of coarse wood pressing it in the wood. One after one, so you don't get any overlap. I will try that out somewhere in the future. Alwin |
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Kevin Johnson Registered ![]()
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Hi Alwin. I like the finished look on your wall, and especially where it looks like moss has been growing. ![]() |
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Si. Moderator ![]()
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![]() " I like the finished look on your wall, and especially where it looks like moss has been growing " Hi Alwin ![]() I agree with Kevin ! ![]() Great 'micro detailing' ! ! ![]() This is the kinda thing that really helps peoples modelling ... ![]() ... the finish on something ordinary & easily available, like foam-sheet. Certainly the sort of thing I would like to know, when reaching for paint etc. ![]() ![]() The 'crack' effect works really well with the foam-sheet also ... & nice weathering ! ![]() Good to see ^^ these Posts here Alwin ... without giving the game away on the whole TOP SECRET model ! ![]() ![]() I'm HOOKED ! ![]() 5 Mooses ... with big coffees & sticky-tape ! ! ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Si. |
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Alwin Registered ![]()
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Thanks guys, Because of the heat over here I haven't done much modeling the last two weeks. I have an idea on what I can show next but that took some time to prepare. Stay tuned! Alwin |
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Michael M Registered ![]()
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Heat ? It's 105(F) and 27% humidity in San Bernardino. My layout is outside, so it's kinda hard to keep the sweat out of my eyes while working on it. Just saying... If anyone's interested. |
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Alwin Registered ![]()
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Finally an update. The contest was in October. But I had a house move right after, so didn't have much time to post anything. The voting is only by the visitors. Most of the time they appreciate other things than I build. My diorama wasn't even by the best eight (out of 25). But here are some photo's. I can show work in progress photo's of the loco or air compressor, if someone is interested. ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() If someone is interested in the other diorama's: https://www.facebook.com/pg/A4dioramawedstrijd/posts/?ref=page_internal The second post dated 31 October has the list of prize winners. The third post of 31 October has photo's of all the diorama's. Alwin |
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corv8 Registered
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Hi Alwin, I am especially impressed by the air compressor. Like the real thing ! If I am allowed a little creative critic, the wheels look a little flimsy, something more substantial would make in more sure footed. BTW, thanks for the FB link. Some interesting dioramas, like the boat on the clear resin cube. |
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Si. Moderator ![]()
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![]() Hi Alwin ![]() I too am also totally compressed by the impressor ! ![]() The whole effect is one of those 'I can't believe it's 1:43' moments ... ![]() ... seems to rival some bigger scales, like Gn15 or 7/8ths for detail. I actually find it hard to believe your diorama is confined to an 'A4' area. ![]() Great photos as well & nice to see all that texture, with sunlight shadows. You have got some super angles & views, with awesome close-ups. The only thing I don't like about your 'competition modelling' ... ![]() ... is that we don't hear from you for a YEAR ... ![]() ... whilst you beaver away, as a model railroading hermit ... ![]() ... SWORN TO SECRECY ! ... ![]() ... until the great unveiling 12 months later !! ![]() Mmm ... ![]() " I can show work in progress photo's of the loco or air compressor, if someone is interested " YES PLEASE ! ![]() I'm sure I'm not the only one ... ... who would love to see construction & painting pics. etc. It must have been fun, designing the diorama concept as well. ![]() So many possibilities & a difficult choice perhaps ... ... of what to include in the final scene. ![]() ![]() ![]() Si. |
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Lee B Registered ![]()
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That concrete look is perfect, I love the texture ! |
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Alwin Registered ![]()
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Lee, Si and Gerold, thanks for the compliments. I thought I had more photo's of the compressor but not so much. And they are also a bit blurry. ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() The tank itself was made of aluminium foil. Endcaps were made of the side of some HO pulleys I didn't use anymore. They were a perfect fit with some round edges. Wheels, motor driveshaft and fly-wheel are from watch parts. I bought a sack full of all kind of different watch parts a long time ago, with the idea that they could be handy one day. Well, this was the first time I used them. The outside of the wheels is little ribbed. Originally they were sprocket-wheels which I sanded down a bit. The cooling ribs are parts of a screw. Other parts are made of wood dowel and block, copper/brass wire, plastic leftovers, parts of a sprue. For round parts I use sprue's alot. Often they have all kind of different diameters. The air hose and power cord (not in the above pictures) was made of solder wire. For paint. Painted it all green. The cooling ribs did get some dark wash, to accent the ribs a bit more. I think I gave the upperside some dusty powder. Well, that's it for the compressor. Alwin |
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2foot6 Registered ![]()
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A great model. Thanks for the breakdown of what it is made from. You have given me a lot of inspiration to make one for myself. ![]() ![]() ![]() ...........Peter |
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Si. Moderator ![]()
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Hi Alwin ![]() WOW ! ![]() I thought the compressor ... ... was some kinda $1M million Buck ... ... unobtainium etched-brass Einstein kit ! ![]() Just a bunch of JUNK though !! ![]() I know these things CAN be done ... ... well done for doin' it ! ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Si. |