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David Laughery Registered 
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Finding vehicles for the layout can be a challenge. My layout will be set in 1935, so finding vehicles (1910s, 1920s, 1930s) has been difficult. I've discovered two companies that offer diecast cars and trucks, appropriate for my era. Ertl and Liberty Classics. Ertl seems to offer early Chevy trucks and Ford Model T cars, while Liberty Classics offers a line of early Studebaker cars and trucks. I've discussed many of my projects with vehicles in my other threads, but some may not have followed, so this might be a new area of interest. Regards, Dave L.  |
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David Laughery Registered
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My primary source for vehicles, is the diecast models, offered by Ertl and Liberty Classics. Often these are covered with lettering and logos, and would stand out on the layout as not very realistic. They need to have promotional lettering and logos removed, and then need to be painted. Here a nice model of a 1917 Maxwell Touring car, before and after repainting. Regards, Dave L.  |
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David Laughery Registered
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Here is a line up of the Studebakers offered by Liberty Classics. They all started as promotional models, and needed to be redone. The Citgo tanker has not been redone yet. Regards, Dave L.  |
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David Laughery Registered
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The Ertl Ford Model Ts are nice models. Regards, Dave L.  |
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David Laughery Registered
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One of my favorite diecasts is this 1916 Studebaker truck, by Liberty Classics, made for the Lennox company. It is the only one of theirs that comes with a driver (Dave Lennox), so I seek these above their other trucks. Regards, Dave L.  |
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David Laughery Registered
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These pickups are very adaptable. Here one is just the pickup, and the other is modified into a stake body. Regards, Dave L.  |
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David Laughery Registered
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The truck comes in several versions. The tanker and a covered bed (and the Lennox version) can be found on eBay and sometimes on Amazon. Regards, Dave L.  |
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David Laughery Registered
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The Liberty Classics Studebaker comes with the top up or down. I added a very tall driver to the open car. Regards, Dave L.  |
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David Laughery Registered
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These cars have been repainted. The green convertible was the first diecast project, and started my "hobby within a hobby" years ago. It was a promotional car for prunes, as I remember. Regards, Dave L.  |
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David Laughery Registered
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The first thing I do, is darken the radiator with a black magic marker. I've found 1935 license plates on the net, and in reference books, and printed some for my vehicles. Regards, Dave L.  |
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David Laughery Registered
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Another Liberty Classics Studebaker is the panel truck. Although a bank, the coin slot is out of sight in the rear. There is no need to fill a slot on the roof! I've removed the promotional lettering on the side. Regards, Dave L.  |
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David Laughery Registered
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A nice feature of these vans is that the body is cast in two parts and makes a nice open bed truck when the top is left off after disassembly. Regards, Dave L.  |
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brianwbc Registered 
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You have a wonderful collection, Dave! Thanks for posting them. |
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David Laughery Registered
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Thanks, Brian. I've been building model cars and trucks for most of my life. I've only discovered the usefulness of these diecasts in the last couple of years when Gn15 and 1/24 scale vehicles merged and I had a new hobby within a hobby. I just added another Studebaker to the collection today ( a 1922 pickup). I'l share photos when it arrives. Here is a shot of part of the collection. Regards, Dave L.  |
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David Laughery Registered
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As I have mentioned, these models are often odd colors and covered with gaudy promotions. Here is a Liberty Classics van with its decoration. ... |
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David Laughery Registered
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To remove lettering and logos I use Testor's Plastic Cement to eliminate the unrealistic promotions. In just a few seconds the lettering is dissolved and a quick wipe with a cloth finishes the job. I cannot say that this works on all brands of paint, but works on the Ertl and Liberty Classics vehicles. Regards, Dave L. WARNING: Use this cement in a well ventilated area, and please DO NOT SMOKE  near this cement. |
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David Laughery Registered
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The Liberty Classics vehicles are assembled with small screws. The wheels and axels each have one screw, and screws hold the bed or body and interior together. Here is the underside of one. Regards, Dave L.  |
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David Laughery Registered
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Ertl makes a nice Ford Model T that is the basis of many of my adaptations. It would fit into any era from the teens to the 1930s or 1940s, or even later.  |
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David Laughery Registered
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Once they are painted they are more realistic than the brightly painted promotional versions. Model Ts were black after 1914, and the curved rear fender places their model as 1915 or later. The brass radiator should also be black, but I leave them as is because I like them. Regards, Dave L.  |
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David Laughery Registered
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The Ertl comes in four versions, as I have determined, simply by which rear casting is used, determined by the promotion. All are historical, based on photos, although the barrel could have been. Over the years many aftermarket companies made components to add the Model T body, so anything was possible, and Ertl made these four versions. Regards, Dave L.  |
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David Laughery Registered
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The Ertl Model Ts come apart into these basic parts. Here are the parts for the tanker version. You can see the need for some paint work. Regards, Dave L.  |
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David Laughery Registered
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The Ertl Model Ts can be assembled at the factory two ways. The easiest version to take apart uses screws. More difficult to take apart are cars that have lugs that are peened over, somewhat like a rivet. To take these apart you have to drill out the peened over lug and separate. Not too easy, and putting the cars back together requires using an adhesive like superglue. If you ever have a choice, go for the screwed version. In the photo the car on the right uses screws. Regards, Dave L.  |
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David Laughery Registered
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It is easier to see the "rivets" on this car. Regards, Dave L.  |
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David Laughery Registered
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Screws or rivets.  |
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David Laughery Registered
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Sometimes Ertl uses different length screws so I'll ID them by putting the odd one in a piece of paper and mark it. I learned this by trying to put a long screw into a short hole and wondered why it became impossible. Regards, Dave L.  |
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David Laughery Registered
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I think you can tell that I like the Ertl Ford Model Ts. I have done a lot of them and painted a few in unauthentic colors, but I like them. Here are a few: Regards, Dave L.  |
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David Laughery Registered
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David Laughery Registered
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David Laughery Registered
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David Laughery Registered
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David Laughery Registered
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Besides Ford Model Ts, Ertl makes a 1923 Chevy Truck. The promotion on the side looks like it might fit my era so I have not repainted it. I even like the color of the wheels, which usually need to be painted on most models. Regards, Dave L.  |
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David Laughery Registered
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One of Ertl's 1923 Chevy vans was painted as a Hemmings promotion. I liked the color and the wheels were even a matching green, so would they would not need painted. A big surprise was that somewhere along the way Ertl went from painting the promotion on their vehicles to applying clear stickers which were not affected by the Testor's Cement. This meant that I would have to repaint the whole body. Dave L.  |
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David Laughery Registered
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A coat of primer was applied... |
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David Laughery Registered
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The final green color was not the same as the Hemming's green, but I like it anyway. A problem with the stickers is that the lettering can be slightly seen under the new paint. Regards, Dave L.  |
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David Laughery Registered
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This red Chevy van had an actual painted promotion and the Testor's Cement readily removed it. I dullcoated this one to use on an actual layout. Regards, Dave L.  |
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David Laughery Registered
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If early Fords and Chevys don't fit your era, there are diecasts for all the decades. A quick look on Amazon and eBay today saw vehicles from the 1930s up to the present. You are especially fortunate if you model the 1950s. I have a friend who does painting and conversions of diecasts, too, although he models a later era than I do. Here is one of his models that he repainted. Regards, Dave L.  |
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David Laughery Registered
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Another vintage vehicle in the Ertl collection is this 1912 Ford truck.  |
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David Laughery Registered
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I really like this model because the body's top is a separate casting. When removed a chassis, interior, and hood is available for modification to another body style. Regards, Dave L.  |
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David Laughery Registered
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Here is a chassis ready for modification. One possible style is displayed in the photo. I've mentioned that many truck body configurations were available from after-market companies. My list of these companies numbers over thirty; there were a lot of home made bodies put on the Ford chassis, too. Regards, Dave L.  |
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David Laughery Registered
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There is considerable information on early vehicles in books and on the internet. The Ford Model T cars and trucks are covered in a number of excellent books, and Google Images has numerous images of these vehicles. Regards, Dave L.  |
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David Laughery Registered
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Here is a favorite body style that will be built on one of these 1912 chassis some day. Dave L.  |
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David Laughery Registered
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On some models the wheels will be a matching color, but most diecasts' wheels will need to be painted. Some early Ford wheels were black (as were most cars' wheels), but natural wood spokes were seen, too. I paint most wheels black, and occasionally paint them a wood color. I use Rustoleum semi gloss black for wheels, fenders, and bodies. Dave L.  |
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David Laughery Registered
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Here is my setup for wheel painting. Dave L.  |
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David Laughery Registered
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Wheels ready for assembly. Ertl tires can be black or white. Natural rubber tires were white and about 1920 carbon black was added to the rubber to help make them more durable. You see models with either. I often mix or match tire color to suit the model's color. Regards, Dave L.  |
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David Laughery Registered
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Another nice model in Ertl's line up is this 1917 Maxwell Touring car. I have only seen the model decorated for the Texaco Company commemorating a race in 1917. The Maxwell ran from Newark, NJ, to Los Angeles and did it n an incredible ten days and sixteen hours. I have both versions, the race car, and a standard touring in my collection. To be honest, I've done more than one model in the black; it is a nice model. Regards, Dave L.  |
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David Laughery Registered
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Here is the real car. I'm not sure if the fenders were red. Regards, Dave L.  |
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David Laughery Registered
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Another nice model is this 1927 Graham Brothers truck.  |
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David Laughery Registered
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Ace Hardware used this model in their promotion. With the advertisement removed it became a nice truck. Research found that there was a pickup version in 1927, and I started to cut down one of the models into a pickup.  |
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David Laughery Registered
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Cutting the metal proved to be a tough job, but a pickup version was almost finished. The front grill needed to be attached. Dave L.  |
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David Laughery Registered
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Final 1927 Graham Brothers pickup truck. Dave L.  |
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David Laughery Registered
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A nice truck is this 1927 Ford TT that was promoted by Bell Telephone in 1987 and offered by the Yorkshire Co.. It came as this flat bed version and as a lift version. My first model arrived with a broken front wheel, so the wheel on this model is not what was on this truck. It was the closest replacement I could find. The cab on this represents an after-market cab (and bed) offered by the Field Manufacturing Co. in Michigan. Ford was still selling bare chassis for the owner to add his choice of cab and bed. Dave L.  |
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David Laughery Registered
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The point of this thread is that there is a tremendous source of vehicles for large scale layouts-diecast cars and trucks from all decades. My interest is the early years, until 1935. My layout will be set in 1935, so that is the reason for my concentrating on these years. While a few models would be useable as is, most will require a little work painting and detailing to be realistic. Thanks for following along. Should anyone do a project with a diecast I hope you will share it in this thread. Regards, Dave L. |
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Michael M Registered 
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Dave, Thanks for all the information on the vehicles. There are many similar models in both 1/32 scale (useful for those few of us that model in 1/35 scale), and in 1/48 or 1/45 scale. many of your modifications can be used in any scale. I'm wondering if that Bell System truck was really a promotional item put out by Ma Bell, or something Yorkshire did on their own. The old Bell System was broken up on January 1, 1984. I was there and is was an absolute mess. In my building (El Monte, CA) there was tape running down the floor to indicate the AT&T side and Pacific Bell side, and you were not allowed to cross the line. If you needed to talk with a Pac Bell person you had to go through channels instead of just walking across the room and talking to them in person. Near impossible to get anything accomplished. Pac Bell eventually moved out and AT&T (the Death Star...just look at their logo) had the building to themselves. Ma Bell never understood what it was like to have to compete in the open market and nearly went under. In spite of repeated assurances that our jobs were secure AT&T closed the site and layed off some 250 people. Given the disaster going on at the time I question if anyone had the time to do a promotional item, though I suppose it is possible. |
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David Laughery Registered
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Michael, every diecast I've done has been a promotional model. I assumed that it was the same with the Bell truck. The box shows the two styles and even a pen set for the desk. I guess we'll never know the story. Thanks for the info on Bell. Regards, Dave L.  |
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David Laughery Registered
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This nice 1922 Studebaker arrived today. It is a Liberty Classics model. Regards, Dave L.  |
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Michael M Registered
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I like that Studebaker. |
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Wes Stewart Registered 
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Great Thread guys. Please review the process, for removing and replacing the axles and painting wheels in detail. I just found a couple of really good candidates for the period, and don't want to mess up the axles to where they can't be reassembled. |
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David Laughery Registered
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Wes, give us some details about your vehicles. What are the scale and maker of your vehicles. Are the whets pressed onto the axles or are the ends of the axels protruding through the wheels and peened over? If they are Ertl pr Liberty Classics and have screws it will be easier. Photos will help. Regards, Dave L. |
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David Laughery Registered
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The lettering and promotion came right off within seconds on my Liberty Classics 1922 Studie using the Testor's Cement trick. There is a stiff breeze blowing through the window today here in PA so I did it here by the computer. Always use good ventilation when using this stuff! Regards, Dave L.  |
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David Laughery Registered
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Wes, hopefully you'll not have to remove the wheels from the axels, but can get to them as a wheel and axel unit. Spoked wheels are more delicate, as the result of the shipping of my Ford TT truck shows. The wheel was beyond repair. I had a few wheels in the parts box, but they are not a match. Waiting to see what your vehicles are. Regards, Dave L.  |
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David Laughery Registered
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Tonight I took a closer look at this truck and replaced the rear wheels to match the front's. There is a nice frame when the cast bed is removed, and a lot of possibilities for a new body are evident. Regards, Dave L.  |
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pipopak Moderator
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Do you think this is junk? I screwed up a posting intended to show more info about the Ford TT trucks. They had rear wheels with more and thicker spokes and bigger tires to carry the weight. For some reason Firefox doesn't allow me to post pictures so things go weird from time to time. But if you Google "Ford TT" you will see what I meant. Jose. |
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David Laughery Registered
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Jose, I know those wheels are not quite right for a Ford TT. Over the years finding suitable wheels for my vintage truck models has been difficult. You are correct that the rear wheels were more robust, to carry the weight. Thanks for adding that info. Regards, Dave L. |
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David Laughery Registered
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Here is a comparison of the wheel that came on the truck and my replacement. If one wheel had not been broken in shipping I would have kept the originals. They seem too small in diameter, to my eye, although the tires are more appropriate. Jose is correct that rear wheels and tires were different on the TT. Regards, Dave L.  |
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David Laughery Registered
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I was curious as to how a Liberty Classics wheel and tire compared to a Yorkshire and my replacement wheel. I think the Liberty Classics wheel would be a good one for the rear of the model, but I hate to sacrifice a model just for the wheels. The Liberty Classics wheel is on the left. Regards, Dave L.  |
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Nice Guy Eddie Administrator 
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 If your log-fire back home was larger than average Some further customization was essential Good traction for the start on a very muddy 1/4 mile challenge Might slow you down in the long run though A nice conversion possibility needing only wheels & a log basically Bright paintwork with flames down the side is optional  Eddie |
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David Laughery Registered
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Neat! I can see a whole new Gn15 layout based on that truck: "S. Charles Matchstick Co.".  Regards, Dave L. |
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pipopak Moderator
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David: you may try casting copies of the wheels. Not that hard. Jose. |
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David Laughery Registered
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Jose, I always considered casting as a difficult process with wheels since there are two sides to reproduce. I've often thought that 3-D printing would be a solution, too, but it is beyond my skill. Regards, Dave L. |
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pipopak Moderator
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You can try casting two halves and then gluing them together. Jose. |
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David Laughery Registered
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Jose, Good idea. I might give it a try. Thanks, Regards, Dave L. |
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David Laughery Registered
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I was curious how this Liberty Classics 1922 Studebaker came apart. Two screws separate the body from the chassis, and five little screws undo the crate load. One screw is located inside the crate load. It would be easy to replace the load if one desired. Regards, Dave L.  |
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David Laughery Registered
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I would like to share a few of the vehicles in the collection. This is a 1928 Chevy pickup by Liberty Classics. They are available as promotional models on E bay. I've removed the lettering, painted the wheels, and finally dull coated the model. The coin slot is hidden under the top of one of the crates in the bed. Regards, Dave L.  |
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David Laughery Registered
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This 1930 Ford Model A has working doors, hood, and rumble seat. The manufacturer of the model is unknown. Regards, Dave L.  |
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David Laughery Registered
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This 1930s Good Humor Ice Cream truck is a a fine example of a diecast vehicle suitable for a large scale scene. It has opening doors, detailed engine under the opening hood, steerable front wheels, and an opening door to the "ice box". Research shows it was offered by the Danbury Mint. Regards, Dave L.  |
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David Laughery Registered
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This mail truck appears to be a Danbury Mint issue, but when comparing to photos of the Mint's version there are slight differences, so I don't think it is a Danbury Mint truck. Regards, Dave L.  |
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David Laughery Registered
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Motormax makes some Model Ts and other suitable vehicles. These Ts come with tops up or down. This Touring and a roadster are available on Amazon and Ebay. Regards, Dave L.  |
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David Laughery Registered
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Filling station accessories are available in 1/24 scale, but can be hard to find. These represent gas pumps from the 1930s and will work well with my layout's setting. Regards, Davee L.  |
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David Laughery Registered
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This Ertl tank truck will be repainted to go with the pumps. There are many photos of Red Crown trucks on the net to help. Regards, Dave L.  |
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David Laughery Registered
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Motor bikes in 1/24 scale can be found for most eras. Regards, Dave L.  |
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David Laughery Registered
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I finally found a Red Crown Ertl tank truck on Ebay to go with my pumps. I painted the wheels and now am thinking seriously about a filling station scene to display it all. Regards, Dave L.  |
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David Laughery Registered
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Your vintage vehicles can choose their favorite brands. Regards, Dave L.  |
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David Laughery Registered
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Another version of the Yorkshire Co.'s Ford TT showed up. It would make a nice peddler's truck with a load of vegetables in the back and a new color. Regards, Dave L.  |
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David Laughery Registered
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A company that offers large scale vehicles is Gearbox. Their gas pumps are really nice, as are their vehicles, except that I don't care for their wheels. They seem to be undersize, to my eye, and the detail is not there. It is a matter of choice...  |
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David Laughery Registered
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Here is a side-by-side comparison of the Ertl (left) and the Gearbox (right) tank trucks. The Gearbox truck and pump came as a set. Regards, Dave L.  |
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David Laughery Registered
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I hope this Thread has been interesting and has illustrated, that diecasts from Ertl, Liberty Classics, Motormax, Yorkshire Co., and Gearbox, are a good source of vehicles for Gn15 and other Large Scale applications. Although my interest is in the early decades if the twentieth century, diecast vehicles from any era are available. I've enjoyed sharing some of my projects on the Forum. Regards, Dave L. |
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David Laughery Registered
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I removed the heavy cast metal bed from this Yorkshire Co. Ford TT and decided to make a flat bed.  |
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David Laughery Registered
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The flat bed was easy to make, and I'll paint it and the cab together. You might notice this is a different truck than in the photo above. For some reason the cab had been hot glued to the chassis, making it impossible to separate. You can see globs of the glue between the rails and under the cab. I suspect some issue with stripped threads at the Chinese factory is the reason. Regards, Dave L.  |
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David Laughery Registered
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A future project will be mounting the Ertl tank to the Yorkshire TT chassis. I'll paint the tank silver and the side boxes black to match the truck's black. Removing and painting the cab then will not be necessary. I'll need to cut off the tang on the tank and figure a way to attach with screws. Too bad the mounting holes do not match up. I'll cover the coin slot while I'm at it, too. It should be a nice model when done. Thanks for looking. Regards, Dave L.  |
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Michael M Registered
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Dave, I'm interested in seeing how you fill up those slots. That's the main thing that keeps me away from those bank cars. |
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David Laughery Registered
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Michael The easiest way to fill a slot is to just cover it. I've glued a thin piece of styrene sheet over the top of the tank's cabinet (Aleene's Tacky Glue) I'll trim it when it is dry. Liberty Classics models put the slots out of sight in the back, or hidden under a load. When I have to actually fill a slot, I glue a supporting piece to inside the slot, and then fill with auto spot putty. Sand and then paint. It is a pain so I try to avoid it. Regards, Dave L.  |
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David Laughery Registered
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Here you can see that the two coin slots on these Liberty Classics and Ertl vehicles are nicely hidden. Regards, Dave L.  |
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Si. Moderator 
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Hi Dave  I really like your 2 gas-pump & tanker couples !  Not forgetting the nice 'Eagle' pump & cute compressed-air pump ! There are some GREAT 'non-railroad' models available for 1:24 scale. Thanks for Posting on what they are & where to find them.  I have enjoyed collecting up a few nice 1:35 vehicle kits to build & diecasts to use.  I think most folk like their vehicles as much as trains & structures !    Si. |
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David Laughery Registered
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Thanks Si. So many areas of modeling large scale are available. I love nautical models (especially steamboats), and 1920-1930s aviation subjects, too. If I were to have the time and space, I bet I could get them all incorporated in a single Gn15 Layout! I see a steamboat landing and seaplane facility, where passengers board a Gn15 rail-line to travel inland. Best regard's, Dave L. |
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David Laughery Registered
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Here is an interesting photo of a friend's large scale vehicle. He works in plaster and casts the rough forms in home made molds. Here is a before and after of the same car. Regards, Dave L.  |
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David Laughery Registered
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My friend displays his models in this diorama. Regards, Dave L.  |
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David Laughery Registered
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Today I pulled some of my favorite truck models from the shelf. I am unable to work on projects right now, so I enjoy just looking at them. I thought you might like to see them again, Too. Regards, Dave L.  |
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David Laughery Registered
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The Yorkshire Co.'s Ford Model TT truck is a great model. The bed unscrews if one wants to make another style. This model comes with what looks like a Field Manufacturing Co. optional body and bed. Ford was selling bare chassis so the owner could add whatever he chose. I am working on a flat bed for one of these models. Regards, Dave L.  |
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David Laughery Registered
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Here is the flat bed for the TT truck.. |
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David Laughery Registered
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The bed needs painting and then glued to the truck frame. Regards, Dave L.  |
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David Laughery Registered
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One of my favorites is this 1917 Studebaker by Liberty Classics. I've added a new stake bed to it. Regards, Dave L.  |
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David Laughery Registered
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A shot of my favorite autos. Left to right: Maxwell, two Studebakers, and a Ford Model T. Thanks for looking. Regards, Dave L.  |
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David Laughery Registered
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In another thread a discussion on the relative size of models came up. Here a large scale vehicle and a 9 Volt battery are contrasted. Regards, Dave L.  |
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David Laughery Registered
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Today an Ertl 1912 Ford arrived from Ebay. I really like this model because the body shell is separate, from the hood, interior, and fenders...  |
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David Laughery Registered
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The model comes apart with two screws. The parts look like this.  |
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David Laughery Registered
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A great early Ford chassis is available for adding a custom body. Regards, Dave L.  |
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David Laughery Registered
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A project I have been thinking about for a while, is the mating of a Yorkshire Co. Ford TT to an Ertl tank body. Regards, Dave L.  |
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David Laughery Registered
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The bed of the TT comes off easily with two screws.  |
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David Laughery Registered
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I know I'll have to remove the tang on the tank body, and need to think if I need to trim off a little bit of the truck's frame, as well. The project will be on hold at this stage, until my son can get to the workshop and do some hacksawing. Regards, Dave L.  |
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David Laughery Registered
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I do have the option of just using the tank part of the Ertl assembly, but I think I'll go with the tank and bed. Plans are to paint the bottom of the tank black, and the actual tank silver. Regards, Dave L.  |
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David Laughery Registered
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There are numerous books and internet photos, that can help with the modeling of gas stations. I am thinking that I'll display some of my models in such a scene, for use on a future layout. Regards, Dave L.  |
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David Laughery Registered
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I really like this filling station. It would make a nice model.  |
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David Laughery Registered
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Yesterday we were able to remove the tang and frame extensions on the tuck. The hacksaw made it a quick job..  |
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David Laughery Registered
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After painting I can mate the two parts, and have a nice tank truck. Regards, Dave L.  |
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David Laughery Registered
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Paint is all that's needed to finish these trucks.  |
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David Laughery Registered
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Once painted, I'll be joining metal parts to metal, and think my usual Aleene's Tacky Glue might not be strong enough. I am going to try JB Weld for this. I've never used it, does anyone have experience with this glue? Regards, Dave L.  |
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Michael M Registered
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I've used JB Weld before. It's a two-part epoxy. It's pretty strong, as long as you don't put an excessive amount of pressure on it. Not much working time once you mix the two parts together. Try to keep it off your fingers. |
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David Laughery Registered
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Thanks, Michael. My only experience with an epoxy years ago, did not go well. I hope this works better. Regards, Dave L. |
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pipopak Moderator
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I have used it a lot. Prefer the 1 hour cure time, seems to be stronger. 24 hour cure time strongest of them all. Been able to drill and tap in it. Epoxy prefers clean and slightly rough surfaces. Regards, Jose. |
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David Laughery Registered
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Thanks for the tip about being clean and rough. Regards, Dave L. |
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Nice Guy Eddie Administrator
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I like using, the 2-part 24-hour, Epoxy Resin for many things. The longer curing gives more time for THOROUGH epoxy mixing ! Also less mayhem, as it's not going solid, before it's on anything. GREASY surfaces, and OXIDE layers, is what epoxy doesn't like ! Wiping over with Meths & not gluing un-anodized aluminum helps. Meths wiping tends to be fine on most paints & surfaces encountered. In the end it's good ol' light & unseen fingerprint grease that it hates ! Something that ALL glues work better without, but especially Epoxy. Tacky glue, rubber glue, ABS solvent & absorbed PVA can beat grease. I would agree with Jose words of wisdom as well (who'd DARE not to !) Roughed surfaces, lightly sanded & dust free, or cross-scored are good. Jose's Mrs. always reminds him to do that, after he 'fixed' her Ming vase ! I have the 2-part 1-hour Epoxy Resin on hand as well, for some uses. For rock solid mechanical, metal-on-metal, 24-hour's THE LAW though !  Eddie |
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David Laughery Registered
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Thanks, Eddie, and Jose, too. When ready to glue the parts I'll rough the surfaces with something, and then clean with alcohol wipes to remove grease and oil. Regards, Dave L. |
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David Laughery Registered
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Today another version of the Yorkshire Co. Ford TT came, painted red, stickered for PP&L.  |
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David Laughery Registered
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It came apart with screws into these parts.  |
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David Laughery Registered
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As far as I know, this truck comes in red and green. Regards, Dave L.  |
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David Laughery Registered
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Looking at these trucks today I noticed that the cabs were different. Some have the back window and some do not. Curious. Regards, Dave L.  |
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David Laughery Registered
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The flatbed and tank truck Ford TTs are finished. I used the Yorkshire Co. models as a basis, and added the Ertl tank to make the tanker. The flatbed was made from plastic.  |
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David Laughery Registered
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Here is my fleet of Ford TTs. Regards, Dave L.  |
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David Laughery Registered
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The other day this catalog from Fairfield Collectables arrived, listing many pages of 1:24, 1:18, and some other scale vehicles from all eras. Many prices for these 1:24 models are under $20 It shows that one can order online at: http://www.fairfieldcollectables.com I have not ordered from them. Just passing this along to fellow large scale modelers. Regards, Dave L.  |
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David Laughery Registered
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Today I pulled an example of a, Liberty Classics (L), an Ertl (middle), and Yorkshire Co. (R), truck from the shelf, to again highlight the three companies that are the sources for nice large scale vehicles. For my time period that I model these companies offer a good choice to use, with some repainting, or as sources for adaptations of the basic model. Regards, Dave L.  |
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David Laughery Registered
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Passenger cars are nicely represented by, Liberty Classics Studebaker (L), and the Ertl Maxwell and Ford Model T (middle and R). Again, these fit my modeling era, but both of these companies offer models of later time periods. Amazon often has these offered, but there are many more choices on Ebay, often for very reasonable prices. Regards, Dave L.  |
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David Laughery Registered
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Up to now I have mostly discussed, adapting diecast cars and trucks for Gn15 use. For many years I built hundreds of plastic car and truck models, too. Here is one that has been sitting on the shelf for a long time. Old hands and eyes make these difficult for me now, so I am sticking with the diecasts. What further dissuades my building this is that, although I wanted the roadster, the parts are for a Ford Touring. Box and directions are for the roadster, the parts are for a four door touring. The kit sits on the shelf. Regards, Dave L.   |
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David Laughery Registered
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Today I was contrasting the Yorkshire Co.'s variations of their Ford TT. Two castings of the cab roof, one short and one longer, are evident. Two bed variations are used, as well. This gives one many possibilities for customizing these models. Regards, Dave L.  |
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Nice Guy Eddie Administrator
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Hi Dave Some folks into Gn15 like the modern period. I saw you had some 1:24 vehicle catalogues. Which I noticed a couple of 'stock cars' in. Do you know if it is possible to get in 1:24, '40s '50s '60s Caddys, Chevys, Pickups, etc. ?  Eddie |
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David Laughery Registered
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Eddie A quick look through the Fairfield catalog, showed a lot of vehicles that fit your time periods and vehicle types. I didn't see any Caddies though in 1:24 scale.  Their catalog is online, so you can browse to see what they got. Regards, Dave L. |
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David Laughery Registered
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Eddie My friend who models the 1950s, says there are Caddies in 1:24 out there. He saw some on Ebay. Regards, Dave L. |
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David Laughery Registered
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I came across this old photo of an Ertl Model T truck and trailer. I didn't care for the candy apple red color and didn't keep it. It would have required more work and repainting than I was able to do. The model was a nice one, though. Regards, Dave L.  |
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oztrainz Super Moderator 
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Hi David, Do "nominal" large scale forklifts count ?? |
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David Laughery Registered
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Hey, if it has wheels it's a vehicle.  Regards, Dave L. |
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oztrainz Super Moderator
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Hi David, Well the scale doesn't get much more "nominal", than this Tamiya forklift, from their Educational Construction range. You have to build both the controller and the forkie. It is a "skid-steer" type mechanism, with the front main wheels being powered forward/reverse on/off only. The rear wheel has no steering and just pivots as required. This is a "remote control" rather than a "radio-control" R/C model. For size comparison, as built according to instructions, with a G-scale Preiser figure.  Some more photos. I modified the control box, took a tap off the batteries inside via a simple on/off switch fitted to the box, and threaded in 2 extra wires into the wiring harness for lights. A relatively simple plastic construction, glued to the very basic roll-over frame, gave me a red flashing LED, and 2 high-power white LEDs facing forward.  Later this construction would receive 2 coats of black, to stop the light from the LED flaring in the styrene. Some more photos.  You really don't want to be down on the ground and see this coming at you.  The Tamiya forklift is able to raise reasonably heavy loads, to the top level (at 190 mm or 7.5" height) of the rack in the background. The pallet and 4 solid aluminium beer kegs weighed in at 140g or 5oz. The forkie didn't even break a sweat moving this heavy a load. In action at the pallet rack.  You know you are lined up correctly with the rack, when your headlight spots, pick up the vertical channels on the next level. Later the floor in front of the seat would be plated, to hide the motors and gears behind the mast structure. An "Earl" driver figure from the Dudez'n'Babez range at G Scale Equipment Ltd, would be fitted to the seat, to operate a fabricated styrene driving panel, with bent dressmaking pins for the operating levers. The wheel was stolen from another different large scale forklift model, that met an unfortunate end - but that's another story... Simple stryrene entry steps were added to each side, out to the width of the wheels. Like real large forklifts I've worked around, in a previous career in the steel industry, this is not a "precision placement device". But it can move heavy loads, lift to a good height, and be a workable forklift on a simulated concrete surface. I would not recommend it for use where grit can be picked up, because the the Tamiya gearboxes are partially open underneath. Remember this is a "toy", but with a bit of tarting up, it can be made into a useful operating accessory for Large Scale. |
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David Laughery Registered
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John This is really cool stuff. Thanks so much for sharing! Regards, Dave L. |
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oztrainz Super Moderator
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Hi all, I dug the Tamiya forkie out and dusted it off for some photos today. Here's the completed forkie and tethered controller. The silver switch is for the red warning flasher and driving lights. The controller takes 2 C-cell batteries.  What's under - This is why this forkie is not suitable for a gritty work area, note the exposed gears on the traction motor gearboxes. There is also 3rd motor/gearbox above these, that drives the up/down of the tines on the mast assembly.  The front section of the roll cage was removed, to show Earl and the Tilt and Raise levers for controlling the mast. These are just dressmakers pins bent to suitable positions, then glued into the fabricated control panel.  Here's the view from the other side, showing Earl, the control panel and the added mudguard/steps.  Just like real 1:1 scale large forklifts the forward visibility is very limited, because of the amount of ironmongery in the way.  I spent more than a few years in heavy industry, working around forklifts in a past career. The Tamiya forkie probably comes in at about 20 to 30 ton lift capacity. These are seriously LARGE lumps of moving machinery. Here's my unofficial "safety rules" for working around these beasts:
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oztrainz Super Moderator
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Hi all, I told you about the Tamiya forkie, so that I could tell you about 2 more forkies. Both of these are closer to a "scale-looking" forklift, of about 3 - 6 Ton lift capacity. These 2 would become the "main use" forklifts, on 'Randim Stackum & Wrackem' once it neared completion. There's a whole lot more to come in that layout story, so I'll stop here and focus on these two forklifts. Both of these are analog radio-control. One of them is relatively common and still available, the other rare, I haven't seen one since I got mine in 2008 or so. Side by side they look remarkably similar, and both were advertised at a very nominal 1:20 scale. So what am I talking about ?? Meet the forkies -  In my best "boxing announcer" voice" - In the green corner, on the left, we have the 3-speed "Mini Jack" forklift, that can lift to 150 mm height as shown above. This is the "rare" one. It also has operational headlight lights on the rollcage. In the red corner, on the right, we have the single-speed "IndustryFork Car" forklift, that can lift to 110 mm as shown above. This forklift is the "more common" one, available under different names like "Engineering Fork" or similar. This second forklift is fine for working in more open spaces, but the first 3-Speed "Mini Jack" wins by a "long reach", when it comes to precision control in tight operating conditions. (like those on the RS&W) The following photo shows the results of a throttle "blip" -  The smaller distance indicated by the movement of the front "Mini Jack" unit, shows just how much more precise this unit is with its lowest of the 3 speeds. Both units are roughly equal if top speed is used on the "Mini Jack" unit The packaging is quite different, but the shape of both the forklift and the controller is almost identical. This makes them hard to tell apart when buying a large scale forklift.  The "Mini Jack" packaging has a lift up flap.  Here's a closer look at the forkie that is still available, showing the pallet and the fold-up packing crate load.  And that's probably more than anyone wanted to know about "operational" large scale forklift trucks. |
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David Laughery Registered
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Wow ! I love this kind of stuff. Thanks ! Regards, Dave L. |
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oztrainz Super Moderator
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Hi Dave, all If anyone really wants to do something cool with the Tamiya forkie, then try this: https://youtu.be/bu-eC3ihZWY or https://youtu.be/DWDcn4aEDIE This makes the Tamiya unit very suitable for some precision forkie driving. This type of gear wasn't readily available when I built mine back in 2008 or so. The clunk when the mast is on the way down is easily fixable. It is caused by some burrs around a couple of tapped holes in the mast assembly. A few swipes with a file and some powdered graphite, rubbed into the sliding faces in the mast fixes that problem. |
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David Laughery Registered
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My friend Jon sent a photo of his latest project, a 1939 Chrysler. He works in 1:24, also. Regards, Dave L.  |
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David Laughery Registered
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I've just added these two 1928 Chevy trucks to the collection. The Good Year truck will only need the wheels painted as the logo is appropriate for 1935. The Citgo logos on the pickup will need to be deleted as they are too new by twenty years. Both models are Liberty Classics. Regards, Dave L.  |
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David Laughery Registered
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I found a good buy on 1914 Studebaker roadsters (tops down) and pulled the two versions I have from the shelf, while waiting for them to arrive. They are Liberty Classics models.  |
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David Laughery Registered
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I noticed that the roadster has a spare tire on the back, and the version with the top does not. That is curious. It is the roadster version that is in the mail. Regards, Dave L.  |
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David Laughery Registered
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I would like to build a model of this establishment to display my Studie models. I'll add it to the list.  Regards, Dave L.  |
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David Laughery Registered
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You can see that not all Liberty Classics 1914 Studebaker roadsters, have the spare on the rear. The black version was a promotion for the Texas Company, The other car I repainted, it was a promotion for a prune company, as I remember. Regards, Dave L.  |
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David Laughery Registered
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Liberty Classics also makes nice trucks, too. I replaced the bed of this pickup with a stake body. Regards, Dave L.  |
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David Laughery Registered
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I took the 1928 Chevy pickup bed off tonight. It was attached with one little screw. I was curious to see how the oil drums were attached, and expected them to lift off with the screw's removal.  |
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David Laughery Registered
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Here is the underside of the bed. I see three screws.  |
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David Laughery Registered
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Two screws hold the bed insert in, and two more screws attach the oil drums to the insert. This would permit easy painting of the drums. The cab and chassis could be modified easily too, if the bed were to be left off. This is a nice model by Liberty Classics. Regards, Dave L.  |
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David Laughery Registered
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Today I removed the Citgo logos from the cab. I'll probably keep the load of drums and just paint them. Regards, Dave L.  |
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David Laughery Registered
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I painted the drums with a pewter color. I see I need to touch up a few spots...  |
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David Laughery Registered
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And the Liberty Classics pickup is finished. Regards, Dave L.  |
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David Laughery Registered
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One of the 1914 Studebaker roadsters came. It will be an easy job to remove the "Trust Worthy" from the door, and have it ready for the layout. Regards, Dave L.  |
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David Laughery Registered
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In a few seconds the lettering was removed, and the salesman is trying to make the sale. Regards, Dave L.  |
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2foot6 Registered 
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Very nice models there David. Fine details, really like the Stooddee. ........Peter |
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David Laughery Registered
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Thanks, Peter. I had put working on diecasts away for a bit, but now I am enjoying it again. Regards, Dave L. |
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David Laughery Registered
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My son found this 1925 Kenworth at a yard sale...  |
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David Laughery Registered
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But when placed beside the 1:25 scale Studebaker truck, it seems to be a might small, to be the same scale.  |
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David Laughery Registered
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A front view of both trucks, makes me think the Kenworth is a smaller scale, maybe about 1:32  |
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David Laughery Registered
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The cab's smaller size confirms my suspicion, the trucks are not the same scale.  |
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David Laughery Registered
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A figure beside the 1925 Kenworth really shows its small size. I'll put it in the parts box. The bed load and wheels, may be useful on another project. Regards, Dave L.  |
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David Laughery Registered
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Today's easy project, was to remove the load and top from this Studebaker truck model.  |
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David Laughery Registered
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The top proved to be a little more difficult to remove. The back of the top snapped into place, but the front was glued to the windshield piece. I had to disassemble the truck, and run an Exacto knife along the glued joint. The top eventually snapped off nicely. The wheels will need to be painted. Regards, Dave L.  |
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David Laughery Registered
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Since I have many Studebaker roadsters with their tops down, and only one top up version, I am going to install the truck's top on one of the roadsters. Regards, Dave L.  Update: The top is too short, to reach from the seat back, to the frame, so the roadster remains a top down version. |
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2foot6 Registered
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You just have to LOVE the Studebaker. Great vehicles, and these are nice models. ...........Peter |
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David Laughery Registered
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Peter, thanks. My source for these models is eBay here in the States. I do wonder how available they are around the world, especially since most companies that have these made are in the USA. Some of the sellers do ship worldwide, but it is expensive. Yeah, I do love these early Studebakers. Regards, Dave L. |
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2foot6 Registered
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The problem in Australia is, the model may cost $30 - $50 AU, but the postage will be $40-$70 AU, that makes it an expensive model. That would mean I couldn't eat for a week, and that won't do.... haha.  ......Peter. |
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David Laughery Registered
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Wouldn't you rather have a model car than eat ? Regards, Dave L. |
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2foot6 Registered
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" Wouldn't you rather have a model car than eat ? " No  .......Peter |
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David Laughery Registered
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My next project will be removing the promotions, from this Liberty Classics 1928 Chevy pickup.  |
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David Laughery Registered
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This truck has a load of crates, that nicely covers the coin slot.  |
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David Laughery Registered
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The promotions were removed, but there was a ghost image left. It is unusual that the base paint was slightly softened, leaving a dull area around where the logo was.  |
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David Laughery Registered
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I'm going to give the truck a spray of Dullcoat, to see if that helps. I removed the tires, because I didn't know if they would be affected by the lacquer.  |
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David Laughery Registered
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The Dullcoat helped, but it is still not a perfect job. Maybe some heavy weathering would complete the job. Not all projects end perfectly. The windshield is not frosted. I have tape over the glass and it has not been removed yet. I painted the big crate a different brown for variety.  |
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2foot6 Registered
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David I have been building a few Fords for a friend, at 1:48 scale. (Birkshire Models) He has the same type of theme for his layout as me, old, worn out, rusty and too close soon. This theme I love, as it was the way it was when I was growing up, and it's relatively easy to create. If a model is not perfect, it doesn't matter, as it's been damaged during its working life, and paint is peeling off. Attachment: DW T (3).jpg (Downloaded 99 times) |
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2foot6 Registered
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A few more. Not a good pic. But good to see what can be done in any scale. ......Peter. Attachment: IMG_1313.jpg (Downloaded 92 times) |
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David Laughery Registered
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Since my layout would be set in 1935, a 1928 truck would be seven years old, and could easily show a lot of wear. Thanks for posting the photos. I understand non-Members, not 'Logged In' on Freerails, are not able to see any of the 'Attached Images'. Too bad, your trucks are superb ! Regards, Dave L. |
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2foot6 Registered
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Thanks David For some reason, I find it easier to make a worn out looking vehicle, than a new look vehicle. Might be my life style these days WORN OUT. Haha. ...............Peter |
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David Laughery Registered
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Peter I once spent a lot of time weathering some N-scale models, until I was happy with the effect. I gave the engines and cars a coat of Dullcoat... AND ALL THE WEATHERING DISAPPEARED !! To this day, I've never tried again. Some day all these models will go to new owners, and they can do the weathering. Regards, Dave L.  |
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2foot6 Registered
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I have used Dullcoat back in the eighties, I wasn't too happy with the results. So I do not use it now. Just the weathering powders and solutions. I'm happy with the results for the times I am modelling. We all have our little favourite tools to do a job, and that's great in this hobby. So many different ideas and interests. .......Peter |
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David Laughery Registered
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Peter My vehicles are a spin-off of Gn15 modeling. I never intended it to be the major interest it has become. Gn15 was a spin-off of my Large Scale trolleys. This hobby has so many facets to lead one astray. I have to be careful not to permit 1:24 airplanes, and steamboats to grab hold. Regards, Dave L. |
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Ken C Registered 
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Peter Like the weathering work on the trucks. Have a few I need to get weathered, also some construction models. |
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2foot6 Registered
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My main interest is railway modelling, not modelling vehicles. But I have to say I enjoyed building these vehicles, and the best part is the weathering. Changing a shiny, glossy, toyish model, into something believable. Used grotty models are what I really enjoy. I can make a nice model and be happy with it. If I make a big mistake, so what, just wash it, and start again. Well it's almost foolproof.  Arh... The fun of this part of the hobby has grown on me. But I have three more trucks to build, and that will be the end of it. Back to trains.... Haha. ........Peter. |
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David Laughery Registered
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I'm getting ready to revisit this 1917 Studebaker project. I've ordered some paint for the wheels.  |
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David Laughery Registered
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The wheels really need painted. Gold wheels are not authentic.  |
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David Laughery Registered
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I'll need to put a new floor in the bed. I've thought about a load of sand, or maybe coal, instead of just a floor.  |
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David Laughery Registered
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I'll post photos as the project progresses. Thanks for following along. Regards, Dave L.  |
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2foot6 Registered
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Are these model plastic or diecast ? ..........Peter. |
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David Laughery Registered
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Peter They are diecast, the bodies are metal, and the wheels and interior, grill and headlights are plastic. The wheels have rubber tires. I really like the Liberty Classics models, because they are assembled with small screws. Here is one in its parts.  |
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David Laughery Registered
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I've always painted wheels with spray cans of paint, but now I am trying a new way. So I can do it at my desk instead of out on the deck, I ordered a small can of Acrylic semi-gloss black. Of course they put a sticker over the color and type of paint, but I was able to verify it is what I ordered. I plan to dip the wheel in the can and brush off any excess paint, let it dry, and then repeat the process on the other end of the axle. The wheels in the photo were done months before using the rattle can. We'll see how this goes. Regards, Dave L.  |
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Steve Fry Registered
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Dave Perhaps this item: https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/50ML-Mini-USB-Charge-Airbrush-Air-Compressor-Spray-For-Painting-Paint-Nail-Art-/233838953824 may help working in a small area. |
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David Laughery Registered
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Steve Thanks for this. I've never seen these. I'll look to see if Amazon or eBay has them here. P.S. Amazon has similar mini air brushes, that would be great for model work. They are hand held, and charge through USB port. Neat ! Thanks for the tip.Regards Dave L. |
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David Laughery Registered
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Today I am trying the new way to paint wheels. The wheels were removed with two screws, and the tires taken off...  |
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David Laughery Registered
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I am going to dip the wheels into the can of paint, and remove excess with the brush.  |
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David Laughery Registered
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This did not work. The acrylic paint was too thick, and when I brushed off the gobs of paint, I finally had to wash the paint off the wheel. I guess I have to go back to spraying wheels. Regards, Dave L.  |
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David Laughery Registered
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As it turns out Liberty Classics uses the same casting, for the beds of their 1928 Chevy pickup and 1917 Studebaker truck.  |
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David Laughery Registered
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This permits easy swapping of loads, such as these half dozen oil drums, from one truck to another. Regards, Dave L.  |
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David Laughery Registered
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The Studebaker truck is done. I used the drum load from the 1928 Chevy, and solved the wheel dilemma, by simply using a spare set I had on hand, that were factory painted. The diecast companies (Ertl and Liberty Classics), make the interchange of parts pretty simple. Thanks for following along on this project. Regards, Dave L.  |
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2foot6 Registered
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That vehicle is looking great. ............Peter |
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David Laughery Registered
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Peter, thanks. I wish there was a way to see what, your weathering skill would do to one of these.  Regards, Dave L. |
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2foot6 Registered
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David I think weathering would make it a work vehicle, used and low value, but what you have is a Show Room, high value vehicle, almost a shame to weather it. With the weathering materials I use, they are easily washed off, so if it doesn't look good, just wash it and start again. I'm sure you could give weathering a try, you will be amazed at the results. .......Peter |
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David Laughery Registered
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Peter Why don't you do a weathering project, here in this thread ? Show us how to do it. I know I would find it to be very interesting. Regards, Dave L. |
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2foot6 Registered
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Hmmm I will have to think about that one.  .....Peter. |
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David Laughery Registered
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I really like the crate and drum loads, Liberty Classics uses in their 1928 Chevy pickups. I wouldn't mind having a few more to use in other trucks. Regards, Dave L.  |
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2foot6 Registered
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David The drums are easily made from aluminium baking trays. I have made 140 drums, and are of very low cost.   |
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David Laughery Registered
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Looks like we need a quick tutorial here, on how to make these. They look great ! Regards, Dave L. |
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2foot6 Registered
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David You win. I will take a few pics. making more drums, and write a HOW TO story with them. If all goes well I will post during the weekend. .....Peter |
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David Laughery Registered
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Yaaa !  Regards, Dave L. |
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2foot6 Registered
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David Have a look in the 'Scratchbuilding & Kitbashing' Forum. 44 Gallon Drums - Made For My Layout There is a drum making Topic there just for you. ..........Peter. |
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David Laughery Registered
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Thanks, Peter. It is a neat way to make the drums. I'm sure the process would also work in Large Scale, 1:24 in my case. Thanks for starting the Thread. Regards, Dave L. |
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David Laughery Registered
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My next project is this Liberty Classics Studebaker tank truck. I will try to remove lettering and keep the gold striping. Different wheels and a painted top is all I plan to do to complete it. Regards, Dave L.  |
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David Laughery Registered
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Tonight I started work on the project. The top has the first coat and the wheels are exchanged with another set. Regards, Dave L.  |
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David Laughery Registered
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I did not care for the gray top....  |
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David Laughery Registered
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... and decided to try a tan top, instead.  |
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David Laughery Registered
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I am happier with the tan top, and I can put it all back together. The truck is back together. It arrived without a gear shift lever, so I'll need to fashion one to finish the project. Thanks for following along. Regards, Dave L.  |
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David Laughery Registered
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I have a new 1916 Studebaker panel van, and I am trying to decide what to do with it.  |
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David Laughery Registered
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I've done a lot of variations on trucks. But the panel van does not offer much possibility, other than removing the promotions and painting the wheels. The body is in two parts, a top, and a bottom. I could make it an open bed truck. I'll think on it.  Regards, Dave L.  |
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David Laughery Registered
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In the meantime I have a 1916 Studebaker chassis, already black, that could be a basis for a project I've been thinking about for a long time. The basic body would be easy to do, but all the "detail" will be difficult. I've been on the lookout for a long time for such material. I am going to look seriously at wedding cake decorations. If anyone else has suggestions I would like to hear them. Regards, Dave L.  |
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pipopak Moderator
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Hi Dave You may want to look at dollhouse parts: https://www.thelittledollhousecompany.com/components-c-13_175/ Regards, Jose. |
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David Laughery Registered
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Thanks for the link, Jose. I took a look and there are some possible parts I could use. Regards, Dave L. |
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David Laughery Registered
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Until I can gather what I need for all my possible projects, I continue to enjoy the cars and trucks in my collection, such as these Studebaker roadsters. I thought I only had one roadster with the top up, but I have two. Regards, Dave L.  |
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David Laughery Registered
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Ertl's Maxwells are really nice models. Since the Texaco promotions are actually correct for this car, I've kept them on one of my models.  Another project on the list is this Ertl Ford. I am deciding what to put behind the seat. A pickup bed or a flat bed are possibilities.  Regards Dave L. |
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David Laughery Registered
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I was able to put before and after versions of promotional banks side by side, to show the possibilities for making convincing vehicles for large scale layouts. Regards, Dave L.   |
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David Laughery Registered
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I'm thinking about a new project, with one of my Liberty Classics 1928 Chevy pickups. I've removed the promotions and the drum load.  |
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David Laughery Registered
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I looked at vintage truck photos to help decide what to do. I like the photo with the stake bed, and think that is what I will try.  |
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David Laughery Registered
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I removed the bed, and have a nice chassis to work with for this project. Regards, Dave L   |
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David Laughery Registered
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I started work on the stake bed for the '28 Chevy. Regards, Dave L.  |
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David Laughery Registered
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Work on the bed continues. Regards, Dave L.  |
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David Laughery Registered
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The basic bed is ready for stakes. Regards, Dave L.  |
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David Laughery Registered
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My friend Jon just sent this photo of his finished 1948 Chrysler. This started out as a convertible. Nice work. Regards, Dave L.  |
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David Laughery Registered
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Here is Jon's diorama, under construction, where he displays his vehicle projects. Besides vehicles, Jon is a superb building modeler. Regards, Dave L.  |
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2foot6 Registered
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The beginnings of a great scene. |
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Nice Guy Eddie Administrator
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One of my favorites so far. Probably souped under the hood, for the prohibition hooch run ! Just some olive-oil officer. Yeah right ! Eddie |
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David Laughery Registered
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Nope. Just castor oil, officer... Regards, Dave L |
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David Laughery Registered
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My friend Jon sent photos of his latest project, a 1938 Oldsmobile. Regards, Dave L.   |
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David Laughery Registered
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After puting it aside for a bit, I am back to working on the 1928 Chevy stake bed project. I was not happy with the fit over the rear fenders, so I got out the heavy machinery and did a little trimming. Regards, Dave L.  |
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David Laughery Registered
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Stake bed is progressing. Dave L.    |
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David Laughery Registered
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The project is finished. I'll paint it black to match the fenders. Thinking about a livestock load for the bed. Regards, Dave L.   |
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David Laughery Registered
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The 1928 Chevy project is completed. I really like this model by Liberty Classics. Thanks for following along. Regards, Dave L.  |
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David Laughery Registered
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The Liberty Classics trucks are a great source for adaptation, to very credible scale models for our large scale applications. The 1928 Chevy and the Studebaker, are especially good starting points. Regards, Dave L.   |
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David Laughery Registered
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Gearbox makes (made ?) these nice 1920s Wayne pumps in 1:25 scale. These are Shell and Gulf brands. They would fit on any period layout. I have not seen them for sale recently, and they would be hard to find, I suspect. Grab 'em if you find 'em. Regards, Dave L.  |
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David Laughery Registered
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I've had this Liberty Classics Studebaker van sitting around. This is the van that the body is in two parts, an upper and a lower piece. This is the van without the top part. Since there is not too much I could do with it, I thought I would simply put a top on it.  |
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David Laughery Registered
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I think a light brown color will look good...  |
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David Laughery Registered
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I applied the thick paint with a Q-tip, thinking it will give some texture to the smooth top...  |
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David Laughery Registered
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I am pretty happy with the result. I'll finish by gluing on the top with Aleene's Tacky Glue. Thanks for following along. Regards, Dave L.   |
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David Laughery Registered
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Without realizing it, I have a new "Hobby Within A Hobby".  Regards, Dave L. P.S. A quick check on eBay shows a lot of pumps for sale. Type in "1:25 1920s gas pump."  |
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David Laughery Registered
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My last two projects posing for a builder's photo. Regards, Dave L.  |
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David Laughery Registered
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I really like the Liberty Classics 1922 Studebaker pickup, and the 1928 Chevy pickup and van. These models are fun to adapt and change, as they use the same castings for the fenders and pickup beds, wheel axles and the loads are interchangeable.  |
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David Laughery Registered
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The 1922 Studie has a different wheel than the Chevy's, and I thought I would exchange them to see what they would look like.   |
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David Laughery Registered
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Three screws will let you remove the wheels and axles, two on the front, and the single screw for the rear axle.  |
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David Laughery Registered
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Here the wheels are swapped. I like the effect, but I wish the Studebaker's tires were a little bigger. I did try to exchange the tires, too, but the wheels are a different diameter. Regards, Dave L.  |
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David Laughery Registered
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My friend Jon sent photos of his 1938 Oldsmobile. It started as a Presidential limousine convertible. He modified the length and added the top. Nicely done, Jon ! Regards, Dave L.   |
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corv8 Registered
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David Laughery wrote:
Until now, I only knew guys who cut the roof from coupes, or even sedans, and sold those contraptions to unsuspecting people as convertibles... Anyway, this one is well done. |
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David Laughery Registered
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Thanks, Gerold. I'll pass your compliment on to Jon. He amazes me with the projects he undertakes. Regards, Dave L |
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David Laughery Registered
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Ertl's 1927 Graham Brothers truck is a nice model. It is made of three major castings: The body, the fenders, and a separate chassis.  |
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David Laughery Registered
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A plastic interior sits on the fender casting which sits on the chassis.   |
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David Laughery Registered
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I put a set of spoke wheels on the chassis, and am thinking of putting the cab of the '28 Chevy on the frame. I don't want to sacrifice the nice Chevy pickup for a project, so I'll wait until I get another cab. Thanks for following along. Regards, Dave L.  |
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corv8 Registered
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I like the sturdy look of the six spoke wheels. |
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David Laughery Registered
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Gerold I like that look, too. I have another cab coming, and will try a quick check on the fit of the cab and chassis. The Citgo '28 Chevys seem to be plentiful on eBay right now. Regards, Dave L.  |
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David Laughery Registered
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It is too bad that I can't get to the workshop. I would slice off the back of the 1927 Graham Brothers truck, to make a chassis and cab for a dump truck. Should the '28 Chevy cab fit on the Graham Brothers fender and chassis, I may try a dump body. Regards, Dave L.  |
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David Laughery Registered
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I continue to be impressed by the possibilities that these Liberty Classics '28 Chevys and early Studebakers provide for modification and adaptation into nice models. I hope some of you are looking at the many diecast models out there. There are models for all eras available. Regards, Dave L.   |
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David Laughery Registered
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Some projects can be as simple as changing wheels...  |
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David Laughery Registered
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Other projects can be more involved. The car on the left started as a model similar to the right one. The body was in two parts, top and bottom, and the top was left off. Painting wheels is usually required, and a spare top from yet another model finished the project. Since the models are put together with screws, they come apart easily with just a small screw driver. No cutting or drilling of metal is required. Regards, Dave L.  |
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David Laughery Registered
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As I suspected, the cab from the Liberty Classics '28 Chevy, nicely sits on the Ertl 1927 Graham Brothers truck's fenders and frame. It'll be the basis for a larger truck rather than a smaller pickup. I'll have to keep the Chevy interior and fashion a completely new bed. Regards, Dave L.   |
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David Laughery Registered
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It looks like the original position of the screws attaching the cabs will match. I'll just need a longer screw to have a mechanical attachment instead of a glued joint. The headlight holes on the frame will be a close fit for the headlight piece, as well. Regards, Dave L.   |
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David Laughery Registered
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The proportions of this cab and frame combination, are pretty close to the 1928 Chevy commercial truck. I am starting to think about what to put behind the cab. I really like this one. Regards, Dave L.  |
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David Laughery Registered
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The Chevrolet brochure shows full fenders over the wheels. The ice truck does not have them. Regards, Dave L.  |
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David Laughery Registered
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Another possible bed for the 1928 Chevy. It would look great with an unusual load. Regards, Dave L.  |
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David Laughery Registered
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My friend Jon sent a photo of his latest, a '51 Buick. Regards, Dave L.  |
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David Laughery Registered
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This is where I am at with the '28 Chevy Commercial project. The cab holes did not work out, so I'll have to rely on epoxy joints for final assembly. Next steps will be to decide on which bed I'll scratchbuild, and then to final painting after that. Thanks for following along. Regards, Dave L.  |
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David Laughery Registered
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Today I started working on the bed for the Chevy Commercial. Going through the scrap box I found some N-scale bridge girders, and thought they would work as bed sides on the truck. I glued two back to back at first, but then decided to use just one girder for the side. I'll let the glue dry overnight before starting the ends. I'll need to split one of the two girder sides I'd made. Regards, Dave L.  |
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David Laughery Registered
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The sides are glued to the bed and test fitted on the truck. Regards, Dave L.  |
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David Laughery Registered
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Well, that did not turn out. When I removed the bed from the truck it all fell apart. As I think about it I think the original bed piece is not styrene, but maybe ABS or plastic that does glue well with the Testers cement. I'll make a new bottom piece, and go with the bridge girders for the sides. Regards, Dave L.  |
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David Laughery Registered
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Before I went to the trouble of making a new bottom piece, I flipped the bottom piece over and tried to glue the sides again. With more contact area it seems to be working. I'll keep you posted. Regards, Dave L.   |
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David Laughery Registered
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Here's an old project from years ago. It was my first transformation of a diecast model. Regards, Dave L.   |
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David Laughery Registered
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My friend Jon sent the latest photo of his dharma he uses to display his vehicles. He is working on the yellow building on the right, it'll be a sign painting business. Regards, Dave L.  |
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David Laughery Registered
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My 1928 Chevy truck project is progressing. The Testor's plastic glue did work to attach the bed sides to the floor after turning it upside down. I guess it was an issue of contact area, after all. Painting is the next step. I plan to do the fenders in black and then primer on the cab and bed, until I decide on a final color. Regards, Dave L.  |
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David Laughery Registered
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A new vehicle arrived in the shop today. This 1927 Graham Brothers truck is a nice model. I've removed the True Value promotion, and it will be put in storage until a project comes to mind. My total investment is $13 There are some good bargains on eBay. Regards, Dave L.  |
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David Laughery Registered
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My friend Jon sent a photo of his diorama, and his next proposed project, a 1940 LaSalle. He's drawn it to scale and is posing the drawing next to previous projects to confirm that the size is correct. He is going to build the car from scratch. I'll post photos as he sends them. Regards, Dave L.  |
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David Laughery Registered
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Prices continue to be very reasonable on Ebay right now, for diecast models. This version, which I like because the top is a separate casting, cost me a total expense of less than twelve dollars. There are bargains if you don't need things like, the original box, key, or pristine condition. Regards, Dave L.   |
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David Laughery Registered
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Here is a Studebaker truck that has its load removed, promotions removed, and a simple wheel exchange. I've been thinking of making a solid C cab, for one of these Liberty Classics trucks. Still thinking. Regards, Dave L.  |
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David Laughery Registered
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I found a photo on the net, that is exactly what I have in mind for this truck. Regards, Dave L.  |
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David Laughery Registered
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Tonight I worked on disassembling the Studebaker. The bed comes off with one screw, but the canvas top is more difficult to remove. It is glued to the windscreen top, and then snaps into the body with three little tabs. I ran an Exacto blade along the top at the windscreen, and gently snapped it off (holding my breath). I've been lucky every time I do this. Regards, Dave L.    |
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corv8 Registered
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The prototype without rear fenders has a very "empty" "open" look. Wonder how it was to drive it in the rain ? Your model seems to be a good starting point. |
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David Laughery Registered
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Early truckers must have been a hardy bunch, driving in the rain, summer heat, and winter snow and cold. They drove without power steering in the early days, too. One of my favorite old films is "They Drive By Night." It shows a lot of old trucks. Regards, Dave L.  |
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corv8 Registered
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David Laughery wrote:
I remember this time... Had a "conventional" ("Snoot") truck in the late seventies, it was loud, hot in summer and cold in winter, had stiff springs, bad brakes, and an 260 hp engine, when others already had 400+ But I had a 16 speed transmission and power steering. HA ! |
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Robert Shufflebotham Registered
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You ever drive a team of horses ? Pulling a wagon is ten times harder than driving even an old truck. Trust a rancher that does both for a living. |
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David Laughery Registered
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The fenders are black and the cab and bed are primed, but I like the grey on the 1928 Chevy Commercial. I may keep it as the color. The C cab project sits behind. Regards, Dave L.  |
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corv8 Registered
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Dave, why not ? Have done this several times with interurban roofs... Had also primered them with light gray. A gray roof is fine for many cars, so why add another coat. |
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David Laughery Registered
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Thanks, Gerold. If I keep the primer color, I would give it a spray of Gloss coat, to match the shiny fenders. I am still deciding. Regards, Dave L. |
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David Laughery Registered
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Today I finished the 1928 Chevy Commercial. I decided to keep the primer as the final color, and gave it a coat of Gloss Coat, to give enough shine to match the semi-gloss of the fenders. Since I didn't have a mechanical attachment for the cab and bed, I used a lot of Aileen's Tacky Glue inside the cab and under the bed, to hold it all together. I'll wait a week to see how well it holds. Thanks for following along. This has been a fun project. Regards, Dave L.  |
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corv8 Registered
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Looks good, colors fit together nicely. Would you dare to add a separate door handle ? You might drill only a small hole in the bulge, and add a handle made from brass rod, bent and filed to shape. |
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David Laughery Registered
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I do think I will paint the handles silver, and the hood latches, too. Drilling a small hole would be very hard for me, but it would look great with a handle as you describe. Thanks for the suggestion, Gerold. Regards, Dave L. |
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corv8 Registered
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David Laughery wrote:
Ok... got it. It's no longer so easy for me as it was ten years ago. All those Walthers cars that came without grab irons and holes, enjoyed to do this THEN. |
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David Laughery Registered
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Failing eyes and shaky hands, make a lot of things more difficult these days. Regards, Dave L. |
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David Laughery Registered
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My friend Jon sent photos of his latest project. Regards, Dave L.   |
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corv8 Registered
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David Laughery wrote:
He seems to do things the old fashioned way, to avoid saying the hard way. |
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David Laughery Registered
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Gerold The amazing thing is that his models look great when finished. I didn't post his photo of the starting of this model, and will in this post, so all can see how far he has come with this model. Regards, Dave L.  |
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Nice Guy Eddie Administrator
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This dude is the guy that made the kit moulds before CNC Now it's all LASERs, computers, algorithms & CAD Used to be called Pattern Makers Perhaps they still are ! Stunning method & process VERY old skool ! Lump to Limo ! Eddie |
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David Laughery Registered
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I've been showing my diecast vehicle projects for quite a while. Their use for large scale layouts and especially their use on outdoor layouts is such a positive thing. For many years I had planned a 1:24 trolley layout, and built plastic models for that intended layout. My son brought up a box of my plastic models, and I thought I'd share a few with you. This one I dated 1997, so I've been building models for a lot of years. The watermelons are painted green jelly beans. Regards, Dave L.     |
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David Laughery Registered
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This arrived recently. It is an Ertl Ford van. It was in rough shape with tires melted and nicks on the edges. How the tires ended up in that condition I cannot even imagine. I had a spare set of tires that replaced the damaged ones. A bottle of BIC Wite-Out with its little sponge applicator, easily touched up the nicks on the edges. Total investment was less than eight bucks. Regards, Dave L.  |
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David Laughery Registered
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On my 1935 era trolley layout that never got built, the Police were still using their old Ford Model A. Regards, Dave L.    |
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David Laughery Registered
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A little Ford van for the trolley layout. Regards, Dave L.   |
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David Laughery Registered
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A tank truck for the trolley layout. There was going to be an airport scene at the end of the layout, and I needed a tanker for aviation fuel. Regards, Dave L.   |
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corv8 Registered
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Hmmm... You have a never ending supply of ancient trucks....? |
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David Laughery Registered
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Gerold I have been building them for about forty years. As I unpacked the box my son brought up from downstairs, I couldn't remember making some of these. I think there are about six boxes of built models still down there. Regards, Dave L. |
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corv8 Registered
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Dave, very good. Hope you enjoy your treasures from yesterday ! I sometimes pick a loco I built twentyfive years ago from a display cabinet and give her an update. DCC, LEDs, some details that weren't available then, but leave them otherwise as I did them as they are. If the paint job or lettering is incorrect, as I didn't know better then, that's ok, and a piece of my own memory. |
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David Laughery Registered
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Here is a generic little truck, based on no known prototype I can find. This one I don't recall making thirty years ago. Regards, Dave L.   |
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David Laughery Registered
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Friend Jon's 1940 LaSalle is progressing. Regards, Dave L.  |
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David Laughery Registered
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Another model from long ago. Regards, Dave L.  |
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David Laughery Registered
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There was going to be a roadside produce stand on the trolley layout, with a vender filling his truck with produce there, before hitting the road on a sales route. Regards, Dave L.    |
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David Laughery Registered
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A flat bed Ford for the trolley layout. The actual wood planks in the bed have warped while in storage.  Regards, Dave L.  |
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corv8 Registered
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Dave I may have missed something .... Let us know more about the trolley layout ! Does it still exist ? Do you have pictures ? |
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David Laughery Registered
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Gerold For many years I planned to build a half inch scale trolley layout, and run off overhead wire. I've built several trolleys, collected figures, and built numerous car and truck models over the years, for when I actually started the layout. I even had a finished room downstairs to house it. Before I got to starting it I got hooked on the Gn15, and then health issues all got in the way. So, there is no trolley layout. Here are some of my trolleys. Regards, Dave L.    |
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David Laughery Registered
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The mentioning of my someday trolley layout, came up in my thread on collecting trolley postcards. It is yet another hobby within a hobby for me. Regards, Dave L.  |
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corv8 Registered
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Dave These are nice shots of Connecticut Company cars. An interesting operation. |
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David Laughery Registered
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Today I took another look at an Ertl Ford Model T that was sitting on the shelf. I removed the top and clunky box on the back. The tires went to the Heinz pickle truck, and now I am deciding a project for it. It could be the basis for a little fire truck. I'll think on it. The lettering is a sticker and will be hard to remove. Regards, Dave L.  |
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David Laughery Registered
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The pickle truck with the new tires. I sure wish there was a source of tires for the Ertl vehicles. This model was in pretty bad shape. Tires and paint touch up were needed. One of the headlights was missing, so I removed the good light. Since headlights were not the law before October 27, 1917 (Massachusetts passed the first law) and this is a 1913 Ford van, I'll just say the owner didn't need them. Regards, Dave L  |
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David Laughery Registered
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My friend Jon is taking a break from his LaSalle project, to work on this unusual vehicle. He added a resin Jeep cab to something. Regards, Dave L.   |
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David Laughery Registered
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Work on my Studebaker C cab is progressing slowly. I'm not totally happy with the shape o the cab side yet. Thanks for looking. Regards, Dave L.  |
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corv8 Registered
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David Laughery wrote:
Apparently the rear clip of a late fifties Chrysler product, De Soto or something similar. What puzzles me are the four taillights, most of those cars had six of them. |
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David Laughery Registered
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Health issues are now making it difficult to work on projects, and sharing my work here on the Forum. It's been a lot of fun cutting, chopping, and painting my diecast models, and I hope to be able to do some more eventually. I snapped some shots of my favorite truck and auto projects today. Regards, Dave L.   |
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corv8 Registered
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Dave When did you do those ? |
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David Laughery Registered
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Hi Gerold I've been posting for three years here on Freerails in my Threads, on my 'Fish Head Glue Layout', 'What Is Gn15 ?', and this Thread. I've described these models over that time in these Threads, although the trucks have been a more recent area of interest. Regards, Dave L. |
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David Laughery Registered
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Here is an interesting comparison of early gas pumps. Regards. Dave L.  |
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David Laughery Registered
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My friend Jon sent photos of his Jeep project. He is having a problem with making a windshield, and may have to vacu-form one. Regards, Dave L.   |
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David Laughery Registered
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The very first thing I do on a diecast model, is darken the radiator with a black marker. I use one with a pointed tip. Regards, Dave L.  |
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David Laughery Registered
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I admit that I am partial to Ertl's Ford Model T models. Regards, Dave L. |
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corv8 Registered
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Dave This thing strongly remembers me of my Corvair Rampside. (1:1 scale) |
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David Laughery Registered
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Gerold Those were pretty scarce here in the States. But you are right, they do look similar. Regards, Dave L.  |
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David Laughery Registered
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Ertl's Maxwell model is nicely done, and results in a good model for the layout once painted. Regards, Dave L.   |
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corv8 Registered
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I choose to paint the stripe yellow, as I felt white looks cheap...  |
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David Laughery Registered
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As I remember, servicing these was an exercise in unnatural body position. Regards, Dave L. |
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David Laughery Registered
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A hobby, within a hobby, within a hobby, is collecting gas pumps. I always intended to model a 1930s service station using these 1930 pumps. Regards, Dave L.  |
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David Laughery Registered
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The Shell driver is nowhere in sight due to his extreme embarrassment that he ran out of gas at the Red Crown pumps.  Regards, Dave L.  |
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David Laughery Registered
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Liberty Classics's little Studebaker comes in two versions, top up or down. Regards, Dave L.  |
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David Laughery Registered
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Examples of early plates can be found in books and on the net. Since many early plates were the same size as today's plates (12'x6") they scale out to a half inch wide in 1:24 scale. Here are some I found for my 1935 layout's cars and trucks. Regards, Dave L.  |
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English Creek Registered
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Here is my first attempt at upgrading an Ertl Model T, spurred on by Dave Laughery's photos & tips in this Thread. I removed the signwriting with liquid glue, and took off the rear tank.  I happened to have a 2 plank body for a British outline Gn15 wagon lying around, and it looks like it was made for the job !  Still need to glue it all together, paint the wheels, and add a rear licence plate & lamp. It's been fun so far.  I have just acquired a 3D-printer, and I'd printed off a couple of G-scale wooden crates for a flat car load.  They need scaling down a touch, to make a nice load for the rear bed. Ken |
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David Laughery Registered
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I told Ken: "How many diecasts are too many ?" "One more than you have !" Ken is on his way to being a diecast basher. Regards, Dave L. |
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David Laughery Registered
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Ken has found an interesting version of Ertl's 1913 Ford van. Mine is the usual coin bank with the coin slot on top, and the bottom trapdoor to empty the bank. I hope he can share his version, he found "over there" Regards, Dave L.   |
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English Creek Registered
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Here we go Dave. No coin slot, but instead has the dreaded rivets holding it together.   Ken |
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David Laughery Registered
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Ken's model must be just for display, or for play in the sandbox ! I have put aside work on the C cab for the Studebaker truck. I reattached the bed and have it sitting on the shelf for now. Maybe some day I'll finish it. Regards, Dave L.  |
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David Laughery Registered
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Because these models are put together with screws, and there are many variations of color combinations, it would be easy to switch bodies and fenders. For example, by swapping bodies on the fenders of these two trucks, I could make an all red truck or an all black truck. This is part of the fun of diecasts. Regards, Dave L.  |
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David Laughery Registered
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Today I was looking over the cars and trucks on the shelf, and asked myself what was my favorite ? After some thought, I chose the little Studebaker roadster. The green one was the very first diecast that I reworked, and it started my collecting these models. I have quite a few in the collection, but these two are special to me. Regards, Dave  |
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English Creek Registered
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Latest acquisition = Gearbox 1929 Model A Postal Truck. I don't think I can do anything to this except apply licence plates ?      |
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David Laughery Registered
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Ken Are you going to keep the US Mail logos ? Are they stickers ? Regards, Dave |
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English Creek Registered
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Dave I think I'll leave it as is for now. It looks OK to me as a Brit, unless there are glaring errors ? They are stickers so might just peel off when I get round to repainting it. I'll be on the lookout for ideas from prototype photos in the meanwhile. Regards, Ken |
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David Laughery Registered
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Ken My problem with this truck, is that the "I Want You.." poster was for WWI, and would not be on a 1929 vehicle. I planned to repaint mine, but never got to it. Regards, Dave L. |
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English Creek Registered
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Off they come then Dave ! |
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David Laughery Registered
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Here you can see there is no poster on this truck, although the U.S. Mail lettering is OK. Regards, Dave L.  |
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English Creek Registered
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Thanks for posting that Dave. Now that is a project I wouldn't mind getting my teeth into ! |
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David Laughery Registered
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Yeah, it needs a little work. Regards, Dave L. |
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David Laughery Registered
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Here's the real one. From what I've been able to find, some one in the Antique Ford Club had a '29 mail truck, and put the poster on it. The toy companies must have used it as a prototype for their models. Note the wheels. Regards, Dave L.  |
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English Creek Registered
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Thanks Dave. The scuttle on the model is black, as is the door slide cover & radiator, and the rear fenders on the model are wrong. Yes, it needs a bit of work to be correct. Regards Ken |
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English Creek Registered
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This appears to be the original, although its listed as a 1930 model.  |
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David Laughery Registered
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Too bad we can't see the date on the license plate. Can't figure why a 1918 poster would be on a truck in 1930 (and a color photograph instead of a black and white one, in that year) I can not find a 1930s era photograph of a mail truck with the poster. Trucks with the poster all seem to be restored versions, and photos taken after restoration. Regards, Dave L. |
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English Creek Registered
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My best guess is that the same poster was used in WW2 as well. The trucks were possibly used up till the early '50s, and there are photos of postal trucks with signs on them in the '30s. So it is feasible that wartime posters were on them post WW2. |
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David Laughery Registered
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Ken You are correct, that the poster was reprinted for WWII use. Regards, Dave L. |
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David Laughery Registered
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I've put aside the Gn15 vehicles for a little while. Waiting until the weather warms up, and I can paint on the deck again. I am looking forward to working on the 1927 Graham Brothers dump truck. Here's 1:25 and 1:87 posing side by side. Regards, Dave L.  |
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David Laughery Registered
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My dump truck project will start with this.  |
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David Laughery Registered
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I will have to slice the body just behind the cab window. I have a cut off blade for my ten inch chop saw. My son will have to do it for me out on the deck. I may have to do something with the fenders, too.  |
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David Laughery Registered
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A crude mock-up of the dump truck. Regards, Dave L.  |
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David Laughery Registered
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This is what the project hopefully looks like when completed. Regards, Dave L. |
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David Laughery Registered
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My friend Jon sent photos of his latest project. He started with a 1936 Dodge convertible diecast, and added a top. He says he has a little more work, filling imperfections. Thought you'd like to see it. Regards, Dave L.   |
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David Laughery Registered
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I haven't been working on vehicle projects as of late, I am waiting for warm weather, and working out on the deck. Here is a photo of one of my favorite models, the 1928 Chevy pickup from Liberty Classics. I really like the black and orange color combination on the CITGO promotional truck. Regards, Dave L.  |
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David Laughery Registered
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Here's a simple little job that only takes a few moments to do. Add a large drop of Aleene's glue on the headlights, and wait a day. Since it dries clear, there are now lenses on the headlights. Regards, Dave L.  |
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English Creek Registered
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Great idea for the headlights Dave, thanks for sharing. The holding method is equally inspired ! Ken |
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David Laughery Registered
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Another way to vary the vehicles on the layout, is a simple top removal. Two different vehicles can be made from the same diecast, although here I've used two different models to illustrate the point. Regards, Dave L.  |
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David Laughery Registered
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Up to now I've been mostly interested in Liberty Classics' early Studebaker cars and trucks, and have made them the subjects of my projects that adapt die-casts for large scale layouts. I am now looking at their Ford Model A trucks. First I'll need to see if the Testor's Cement will remove the promotions...  |
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David Laughery Registered
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What caught my attention especially, was the well done spoke wheels on these models.  |
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David Laughery Registered
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Front end details are nicely done, too. I'll need to darken the radiator with a black marker, and add Aileen's Tacky Glue for headlight lenses. Fenders are black, so they'll not need painting, body color may need a different color, though. Regards, Dave L.  |
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David Laughery Registered
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This Heinz pickle truck was also added. Neither truck was expensive. Both were less that $16 each, including PA sales tax (6%) and shipping. Regards, Dave L.  |
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David Laughery Registered
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The model's body comes apart easily with two screws.  |
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David Laughery Registered
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Testor's Plastic Cement removed the promotions, except the black date. The body will need to be further taken apart, and the body shell painted. Regards, Dave L.  |
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David Laughery Registered
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I was surprised to discover that the body is two castings, that screw together with two screws. This would make a two-tone paint job easier, but I plan to do a single color. Regards, Dave L.  |
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David Laughery Registered
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Ertl's 1923 delivery van is a nice model. I bought this because there would not be a lot of promotions to remove. I've darkened the grill with a marker, and I will paint the fenders, top, and wheels black for an easy project. Regards, Dave L. P.S. - I did touch up the radiator where I missed a spot.   |
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David Laughery Registered
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I was happy with the N-scale bridge girders, used for the bed of the 1928 Chevy Commercial, and got to thinking I might try it with an Ertl Model T. Regards, Dave L.   |
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David Laughery Registered
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I had an unpainted bridge on hand and used it. I removed the sides, cut one into two equal lengths, and glued to a .040" floor. I've added an end to the cab end of the bed, and now I'll let it dry over night. Regards, Dave L.  |
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David Laughery Registered
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This was a simple project, that now just needs painting and gluing in place. Regards, Dave L.  |
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David Laughery Registered
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A really nice 1930 Ford Model A roadster from Liberty Classics just arrived. Nice detail includes a "stickered" trunk, dash gauges, painted spoke wheels, and an opening rumble seat that hides the coin slot. Promotions appear to be painted, so they should be easily removed with Testor's Plastic Cement. It is a nice addition to the collection. Regards, Dave L.      |
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David Laughery Registered
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The promotions came off nicely, in about five seconds with the Testor's Cement. This car is ready for the layout ! Regards, Dave L.  |
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David Laughery Registered
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Motormax makes 1:24 Ford Model Ts, in two versions of the Roadster, tops up and down. I am not happy with the blue color. These are stated as 1925 models. I am trying to research Ford's colors for that year. Starting in 1914 black was the only color, but colors became available along the way. If anyone has information I would like to hear. Thanks, Regards, Dave L.  |
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David Laughery Registered
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The Motormax Model T, on the left, is about the same size as the Ertl model on the right. The big difference is in the wheels. Regards, Dave L.  |
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David Laughery Registered
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Motormax also makes the T touring in both top up and top down versions. I don't have a top up version to show yet, as they are a bit elusive, and expensive. Regards, Dave L.  |
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David Laughery Registered
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I've refreshed my interest in the Model T after adding the Motormax Ts to the collection. I'm looking at my previous models and seeing if a new project with an Ertl Model T comes to mind. Regards, Dave L. |
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David Laughery Registered
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I have this Ertl Model T in the parts box and need to find a set of tires for it before I start a project. I have not found a source for tires, and I am reluctant to sacrifice another model just for the tires. Sometimes parts cars come up on eBay, so I'll put off this one for now. Regards, Dave L.  |
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David Laughery Registered
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Ertl's 1923 Chevy is a nice model. This one has the US Mail livery. The graphics are well done, although being two dimensional stickers detracts a bit, I think. I do wish Ertl would locate the coin slot on the rear and more out of sight. And while I'm wishing, they could put black wheels on their models, instead of the chrome wheels. Regards, Dave L.  |
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David Laughery Registered
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A bargain ($2 plus $7 shipping) Ertl Model T with Trust Worthy promotions arrived. I tried the Testor's Cement method, to see if they were painted or stickers. I was surprised that they were painted stickers. I was also surprised the cement softened the sticker, and I could carefully pull it from the door. Regards, Dave L.    |
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David Laughery Registered
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I was able to add a Motormax Ford Model T Touring with top up to complete the set. These are nice models, but the color choices are not very accurate. A black Touring is available with figures of Laural and Hardy, but it is priced over $120. Regards, Dave L.   |
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David Laughery Registered
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An added feature of the Motormax Ts is the opening hood and detailed motor. This and the fine detail of the wheels make these nice models for the layout (color not withstanding). Should you disassemble one of these models, it is very fiddly to get the hood parts back into the body. Don't ask how I know this. Regards, Dave L.  |
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David Laughery Registered
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A new to me Ertl vehicle is this 1920 International truck. Detail is minimal, and the orange graphics are a large sticker, poorly applied. The wheels are a little better than the usual Ertl wheels, with lug nuts showing on the hubs. It is interesting that underneath this is stamped "American Classics" and is issued by "Scale Models Div. Joseph L. Ertl Dyersville Iowa. Made in U.S.A. 1991" This is new to me. Regards, Dave L.  |
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David Laughery Registered
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Some research found that Joseph L. Ertl sold his original casting company but grew tired of the Corporate hassle and left to start a new company that produced "Scale Models" Regards, Dave L.    |
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pipopak Moderator
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Assembling a Scale Models 1:20 scale 1919 Ford T delivery truck diecast kit right now. You must absolutely love filing away metal flash to tackle one. Jose. |
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David Laughery Registered
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Jose. I remember all the filing with the Hubley Model A kits years ago. I'd like to see photos of your kit. Sounds like fun. I have a box of Hubley car parts in storage. I've never done anything with them as they are 1:20 I believe your kit is related to the Hubley kits. I suspect Ertl made the parts for them. Regards, Dave L. |
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David Laughery Registered
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Small stickers on the Model T's doors, were impossible to remove without scratching the paint. I've found that liberal applications of Testor's Cement, will loosen the adhesive and they can be pulled off slowly. Glue residue can be removed after the sticker body is off. I'm not sure how this would work on large stickers. It would take a lot of cement. Use good ventilation, and no smoking while doing this. Regards, Dave L.  |
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David Laughery Registered
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What I really like about Ertl's 1920 International are the wheels. They should easily interchange with the Model T fenders, as this appears to use the same fender casting as the Model T. Regards, Dave L.  |
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David Laughery Registered
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Actually, after a closer look the fender castings are not that similar. An early Ertl Model T (the red one) has a different size for the underframe inserts. I don't think they would interchange. The International's black frame is on the right. This might be because one was made by the original Ertl Company. The International is a "Scale Models" product from the second Ertl Company. Regards, Dave L.   |
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David Laughery Registered
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The good news is that the stickers pulled off rather easily if you can catch a corner. The bad news is that the paint on this truck came off too easily with the Testor's Cement. I was cleaning off some of the stickers' residue when body paint started to come off. Advice is to test an area if you aren't repainting. Regards, Dave L.  |
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David Laughery Registered
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I was able to source some red wheels and white tires for my Model T body. Now that the stickers are gone, I can revisit my Model T Fire Engine project again. The ad. for a model and photos from the net, give me the info. to scratchbuild a model. Regards, Dave L.   |
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David Laughery Registered
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Liberty Classics make a nice 1930s Ford Model A tanker version. Clark gas was around in the thirties, so this livery would be correct to use, as is, on a layout of that era. Regards, Dave L.    |
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David Laughery Registered
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Here is a nice example of an Ertl 1923 Chevy van. The gas pumps are models of Tokheim #850s, in production 1930 to 1939. These fit my 1935 layout era nicely. Regards, Dave L.  |
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David Laughery Registered
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I am unable to work on projects right now. So looking back through files, and came across these photos, of Liberty Classics early Studebaker models. I admit to their being favorite models. Thanks for looking. Regards, Dave L.   |
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2foot6 Registered
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What a collection of vehicles David. Would I be right in assuming, you have more than a couple of vehicles in your collection ? .........Peter |
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David Laughery Registered
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Peter I do have quite a few, but I have never counted. It started innocently enough, with the one little Studebaker in the photo above. After repainting it, I started to look for others, and now I have another hobby. I enjoy most of all sharing my finds and projects on the Forum, and I hope some folks have discovered this source for vehicles. Regards, Dave L. |
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David Laughery Registered
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Peter's question, got me to thinking about the vehicles in the collection. I really don't have a number, but Ertl's Ford Model T is the most numerous. I intended to count and see how many I actually had, but I couldn't access all of them. These came up in the first box I could reach. Regards, Dave L.  |
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David Laughery Registered
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I have quite a few of the early Studebaker cars and trucks, made by Liberty Classics. Mostly models of the 'teens, they are very adaptable. The little roadster comes with the top up or down. My pickup version was converted from a van. Regards, Dave L.  |
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David Laughery Registered
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Ertl's Maxwell touring makes a fine vehicle for a layout. I've painted mine black and a dark green. Open cars enable figures to be added. Regards, Dave L.  |
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David Laughery Registered
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After I had determined that the time period for my proposed Gn15 layout would be the mid 1930s, I anticipated the search for suitable, era cars and trucks, would not be too successful. As it turns out, there is a considerable selection, and I have many more cars and trucks than I could ever use on my layout. Thanks to Ertl, Liberty Classics, Motor Max, and Yorkshire Co. my layout's era is fully covered. Regards, Dave L.  |
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David Laughery Registered
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Thanks to diecasting we have Chevy, International, Studebaker, and Ford trucks available for use on the layout. Models are left to right, with the Ford behind. Regards, Dave L.  |
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David Laughery Registered
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I almost forgot Ertl's great 1927 Graham Brothers panel, and Liberty Classics's later 1930 Ford Model A van. Both are great models. Regards, Dave L.  |
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David Laughery Registered
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There is a good selection of autos available. Left to right are Motor Max's Ford Model Ts, Ertl's Maxwell, Liberty Classics's Ford Model A, and their Studebaker roadster. These for my 1930s era layout will work well. Any of these weathered and aged could suit later themed layouts, as well. Thanks for looking. Regards, Dave L.  |
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David Laughery Registered
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The great thing about diecasts is that they mostly are assembled with screws, and can be reduced to their parts with a screwdriver. I get a lot of fun mixing parts from different models, to create a new vesicle, a truck in this case. I've described how I took a Liberty Classics 1928 pickup cab, and mated it to an Ertl 1927 Graham Brothers fender and chassis, to end up with a completely different Chevrolet Commercial. Regards, Dave L.  |
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David Laughery Registered
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A copy of the Spring 2022 II Fairfield Collectibles catalog just arrived. It has a full ten pages of 1:24 model cars and trucks, from all eras, 1920s to present. Their catalog is also online, too. Regards, Dave L.  |
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David Laughery Registered
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Here's an old photo of the result of mixing parts from different models. Sometimes a project will develop. This one did not. Regards, Dave L.  |
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David Laughery Registered
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Here is a Liberty Classics 1928 Chevy truck. I am still researching the authenticity of the Amoco livery. The company was around in the thirties, but was this logo ? Regards, Dave L.  |
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David Laughery Registered
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Detail on this model is pretty good. The front is especially well done. Black radiator insert, clear headlight lenses, radiator ornaments, and the huge front bumper (authentic) are all there. I really like these Liberty Classics '28 Chevys. Regards, Dave L.  |
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David Laughery Registered
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This photo suggests that the AMOCO GAS logo is OK for this model. Regards, Dave L.  |
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2foot6 Registered
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"I do have quite a few, but I have never counted. It started innocently enough, with the one little Studebaker in the photo above" David It must be time to do a stocktake. It would be interesting to know how large your collection of vehicles is. I'm guessing sixty five vehicles ? .......Peter |
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David Laughery Registered
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Well Peter, You know how many diecast vehicles are enough... ONE MORE THAN YOU HAVE !! I haven't added any new vehicles for quite a while. I am working on expanding my bookcase, by adding some more shelves, so I can unpack more for display. Regards, Dave L. |
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David Laughery Registered
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Here's a family shot of the Liberty Classics '28 Chevys. Regards, Dave L.  |
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David Laughery Registered
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This Ford Model TT model was offered by The Yorkshire Co. in Bell Telephone green, and this red that had stickers for PP&L (Pennsylvania Power & Light). The model appears to have a Field Co. optional cab and bed. I've identified over forty companies that made bodies and beds, for Ford Model Ts and the truck version Model TTs. Regards, Dave L.  |
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David Laughery Registered
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Here's a photo from earlier in this Thread, showing the two body styles, and the two different beds, The Yorkshire Co. used on the TT. I've only ever seen the green and red versions. Regards, Dave L. |
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David Laughery Registered
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Here's another Ertl Model T in the collection. The back cargo carrier is authentic, and was available from after-market sources. Ertl put green wheels on the model. It had promotions, but I don't recall what they were. Regards, Dave L.  |
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David Laughery Registered
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I put a plastic bed on this T. Ford actually offered this configuration in 1926. But after-market beds were available, years before the Ford offering. Regards, Dave L.  |
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David Laughery Registered
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Today I put drops of Tacky Glue in the headlight openings, to make lenses on a few cars. It takes about a day to fully dry, and I like the simulation of glass when done. It is a quick and easy project. Regards, Dave L.  |
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David Laughery Registered
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One of Ertl's Model Ts has a body that is one piece. The chassis and hood are separate. With the body removed, there are many possibilities for unique variations. I have a scratchbuilt bed on the back of this one. Regards, Dave L.   |
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David Laughery Registered
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Over the years I have collected signs that might end up on walls of a 1920s-30s service station once printed out. It is a lot easier today with the Net, to find many examples. Regards, Dave L.  |
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David Laughery Registered
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One little job I seem to put off, is putting floors in the beds of vehicles that don't have one. It is a simple matter of cutting a rectangle of plastic (card) and gluing it. It usually means removing the key hatch that made the vehicle a bank. Liberty Classics used the same bed and load castings for Studebakers, like these, and their '28 Chevy pickups. Swapping loads, if you add one, is an easy job with a screwdriver. Regards, Dave L.  |
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David Laughery Registered
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This version of The Yorkshire Co.'s Ford TT uses a different, full length roof casting, than their pickups. It came with really awful side curtains, which I removed. I intend to replace them with better ones someday. This model would make a neat peddler's truck, with a back full of fruit and veggies. I am thinking of swapping this roof, and putting it on the red Yorkshire Co's pickup. I think a red peddler's truck, would be more appropriate. Regards, Dave L.  |
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David Laughery Registered
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After putting the two trucks side-by-side, I see switching roofs would put a red roof on the green pickup. That would require painting the red roof. I see a problem with the roof support spacing, too. This is more of a project than I can do right now, so I'll leave them as they are. Regards, Dave L.  |
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David Laughery Registered
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The Ford TT trucks by The Yorkshire Co. are a great basis for modification. The beds remove with one screw, and a cab and chassis can then be modified into many variations. The prolific number of after-market vendors of the day, offered a tremendous assortment, so anything you add to these models could have been. Thanks for looking. Regards, Dave L.  |
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David Laughery Registered
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Here is my collection of 1935 license plates. Most states' plates were twelve inches across, so in 1:24 they'd be a half inch when printed. You can find examples from any year on the net. I am not always able to find if a state had a different plate for a commercial vehicle. Regards, Dave L. |
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David Laughery Registered
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This book, long out of print, was a good source for my plates years ago. Do libraries still get books on inter-library loan ? Regards, Dave L. P.S. - A quick search on Amazon shows it is available. Seems it has been re-printed.  |
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David Laughery Registered
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Here is a really nice model of a 1936 Dodge. Although it would be too new for my 1935 era layout, I added it to the collection. I was disappointed to find it is too small to be 1:25, despite what the box says. I estimate it is about 1:38 scale, and its small size is evident beside an actual 1:24 figure. It is a nice model. Regards, Dave L.  |
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David Laughery Registered
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Ertl's 1923 Chevy truck is another favorite model. I really like the color of the van and the fact that Ertl didn't put the chrome wheels on it. Matching wheel color is always a plus on a model. It is a negative that this model uses stickers for the Hemmings promotions, which are not easily removable. Repainting is necessary to make it ready for the layout. Regards, Dave L.   |
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David Laughery Registered
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Here are some projects I've described in this Thread. Regrettably, projects like this are not possible for me right now, so I hope to share photos taken along the way, and new photos, too. Many thanks to those who have followed along in this thread. Best regards, Dave L.  |
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David Laughery Registered
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I've mentioned Ertl's Maxwell model and found this photo of a before and after makeover. The promotions are actually correct. A real car did an endurance run from Newark NJ, to Los Angeles in 1917 and set a record. It took ten days and 16 hours. Regards, Dave L.  |
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David Laughery Registered
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Another shot of an Ertl Maxwell. With the promotions removed, and fenders not yet painted black. Regards, Dave L.  |
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David Laughery Registered
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The fenders were painted, and I needed to add the folded top. Wheels were painted a light tan. I swapped tires, too. Regards, Dave L.  |
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David Laughery Registered
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A finished model for the layout. Regards, Dave L.  |
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David Laughery Registered
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Ertl's Ford Model T is a fun model to paint and customize. Early ones come apart with screws, but later versions might have 'rivets'. I've done quite a few. Here is one repainted, and the parts of another model in its primer. Regards, Dave L.   |
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David Laughery Registered
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I put a stake bed on the Model T, and kept the primer color. Regards, Dave L.  |
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David Laughery Registered
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Sunstar has Model Ts, too. They are expensive, but have opening doors, rear gate and hood, and steerable front wheels. I know of two versions, this pickup and a tow truck. Regards, Dave L.  |
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David Laughery Registered
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Over the years a major issue with modeling trucks, has been suitable wheels. I was always on the lookout, for anything that might work as a good truck wheel. I came across these, in the party favor section of the dollar store. For a buck I took a chance that they might work. Turns out they were too big and not suitable. Regards, Dave L.  |
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David Laughery Registered
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Today my friend Jon sent photos of his 1935 Ford Four Door. He started with a Liberty Classics '35 Ford pickup. He always amazes me with his projects. Regards, Dave L.   |
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David Laughery Registered
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One of my favorite Ertl Model Ts is this all white one. For a long while I've tried to figure what commodity a white tanker could haul. Milk is the obvious answer. Someday I'll print decals for a milk company. Regards, Dave L.  |
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David Laughery Registered
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Two Liberty Classics Studebakers still need wheels painted. The Shell logos are OK for the era. Regards, Dave L.  |
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David Laughery Registered
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Liberty Classics's line of models, continues to impress me with their detail. The 1928 Chevrolet pickup, comes with a load of drums or crates. They completely hide the coin slots. Regards, Dave L.  |
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David Laughery Registered
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This model is so easy to modify. The bed comes off with one screw, leaving a cab and chassis for modification. Regards, Dave L.  |
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David Laughery Registered
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Liberty Classics 1916 Studebaker truck comes in many versions, but the one I mostly look for is the Lennox version. I set aside the huge boiler casting in the bed, and then use the truck with another load, or leave it as an empty bed. I like this version because of the driver figure. This truck uniquely has him (Dave Lennox) in the seat. I've never seen another truck from this company with a driver. Regards, Dave L.  |
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David Laughery Registered
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I've seen this Ertl early Ford in a couple of versions. The rack on top is a separate piece, as on this one. Another version just has a cast ridge, instead of the chrome railing. I've removed promotions and painted the wheels on my version in the photo. Regards, Dave L.  |
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David Laughery Registered
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I admit to being partial to tank trucks. This Ertl Red Crown truck is well done. The Yorkshire Co. Fort TT conversion to a tanker using an Ertl tank was described in this Thread a while back. Regards, Dave L.  |
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David Laughery Registered
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Projects I've described in this Thread. Regards, Dave L.  |
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David Laughery Registered
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Looking at an Ertl 1905 Ford delivery van and an Ertl 1912 van chassis, I got to thinking I might be able to make a nice C cab truck... Nope. The '05 body is an eighth of an inch too wide, to drop between the rear fenders of the later Ford chassis. If I could get to the workshop and access to metal cutting tools, I would cut off the inner fender sides and drop in the red van body. Another project might be to cut off just the cab part of the 1905 Ford and place it on the 1912 chassis. This is not possible for me right now. Regards, Dave L.    |
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David Laughery Registered
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Liberty Classics offered this 1922 Studebaker truck. It seems a little rare, as not many show up on Ebay. Its promotion was for a Canadian tire company, so it might not have been widely available in the US. It is a very nice model. Regards, Dave L.  |
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David Laughery Registered
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I've changed my model a bit, by adding spoke wheels instead of the discs. I am still deciding on a load, so the crates are removed. Regards, Dave L.  |
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David Laughery Registered
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My son added two shelves to my bookcase, so I can display part of my collection. Regards, Dave L.  |
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pipopak Moderator
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Looks like you have at least half a shelf worth of vehicles looking for parking space... Jose (in the same boat) |
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David Laughery Registered
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Jose I have two more shelves in the bookcase, that could give me a total of four more display shelves. Right now I rotate the vehicles out front when I need a change. I can't reach the rest of the collection now, anyway, it is stored in the basement. Regards, Dave L. |
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David Laughery Registered
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One project I always wanted to do, was chop off the rear of Ertl's 1927 truck, and make a flatbed or dump truck. I visualized the cab only on the chassis, with an overlay of paper, to get an idea of what it would look like. Regards, Dave L.  |
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David Laughery Registered
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The result would be similar to the project with the '28 Chevy cab and Graham Brothers chassis. Only a true vintage truck lover, would be able to tell the difference. Regards, Dave L. |
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David Laughery Registered
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Looking at the photos above, I wondered if maybe both Ertl and Liberty Classics used identical hoods. Putting them side by side, shows that they are different. Regards, Dave L.  |
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David Laughery Registered
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Here's a nice 1927 Graham Brothers truck, that'd be fun to do. Its wheelbase is a bit longer, than the Ertl model's chassis. Regards, Dave L.  |
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David Laughery Registered
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Here's a GB truck close to the model's chassis length. The Ertl model is unusual, because it has a separate chassis and fender casting. Regards, Dave L.  |
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David Laughery Registered
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Here you can see, the separate chassis (black) on the Ertl model. It would be easy to shorten the body and fender castings, to made a flat bed or dump body to add behind the cab. Thanks for following along. Regards, Dave L.  |
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David Laughery Registered
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Another nice feature of this model, is the opening rear doors with a load in view. The coin slot and the opening hatch to empty the bank are here. Regards, Dave L.  |
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David Laughery Registered
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An unusual spotting feature of the Graham Brothers trucks, was the backing plate behind the rear wheels. It is included on the Ertl model. I doubt they were chromed on the real trucks. Regards, Dave L.  |
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David Laughery Registered
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Ertl's 1927 Graham Brothers truck would look great on a large scale layout. They are plentiful on Ebay right now. I saw one listed at $3 plus shipping yesterday. Regards, Dave L.  |
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David Laughery Registered
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Here's the original ad. for this truck. Regards, Dave L.  |
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David Laughery Registered
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Graham Brothers had a pickup version of the truck. The metal turned out to be very hard to cut with hand tools. Here is the project underway. Regards, Dave L. |
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David Laughery Registered
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1927 Graham Brothers pickup. Regards, Dave L. |
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David Laughery Registered
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I'm getting ready to prime and paint this Ertl 1920 International truck. I lost some of the factory paint trying to clean away sticker adhesive. Weather is hot and humid here in PA, so I'll wait for better weather to paint out on the deck. I had to file away some flash around the windows. Still deciding on a final color. The body is riveted to the fenders, so I'll have to paint the whole vehicle the final color. Regards, Dave L.  |
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David Laughery Registered
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Ertl's 1912 Ford van has a body that comes off with one screw, leaving a hood, fenders, and chassis. Because there is no rear screw to hold the parts together, I use Aleene's Tacky Glue to keep them attached. I still need to work on rear beds. Regards, Dave L.  |
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David Laughery Registered
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Here's a body style I'd like to put on one of these 1912 chassis. Regards, Dave L.  |
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David Laughery Registered
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The Mifflinburg Body Company here in PA had an extensive choice of after market body styles for the Ford T and TT. This is another one I'd like to do someday. There is a good article about this company on Google. They started as buggy builders, before offering auto conversion designs. Regards, Dave L.  |
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David Laughery Registered
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The Field Manufacturing Co. in Michigan, had a large selection of truck bodies for the Model T. Their ad. shows a few possibilities. Sorry the resolution is not so great. Regards, Dave L.  |
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David Laughery Registered
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If you didn't need a truck but wanted to race your T you could add a racing body. Again, sorry for the poor quality, but you get the idea. Regards, Dave L.  |
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David Laughery Registered
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Once the rear casting is removed (one screw) Ertl's Model T is ready for a new rear end. Regards, Dave L.  |
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David Laughery Registered
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Ertl used the same body and fender castings for their Model T. But because their pickup version of the model was not a bank, there is no hatch on the bottom. Pickups seem to be harder to find. There are very few for sale on eBay. Regards, Dave L.   |
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David Laughery Registered
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Here is the pickup model by Ertl. I've painted it in a very "unauthentic" color. I'm thinking of repainting it sometime. Regards, Dave L. |
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David Laughery Registered
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Noting that there were only two of the Ertl Model T pickups on eBay, I decided to change one of my roadsters back to a pickup. I'll need to paint the bed black to match the car. Regards, Dave L.  |
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David Laughery Registered
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Many years ago there was a group of us who modeled vintage trucks, and we exchanged letters on stationary I printed up. It was simple, each person added his personal news about projects on the letter, included photos of models if available, and sent the letter to the next person on the list. It kept us all in touch. I don't know if anyone reading this Thread models vintage trucks. I'd like to hear from you via PM if you like old trucks and model them. Regards, Dave L.  |
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David Laughery Registered
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Liberty Classics 1916 Studebaker tank truck is a nice model. The detail on the top of the tank is especially well done, with rivets and hatches cleanly molded. I still need to find or make a gear shift lever. Regards, Dave L.   |
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David Laughery Registered
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This little T is in my collection. I've tried to determine its scale, and photographed it next to a 1:24 model. Anyone take a guess as to its scale ? Regards, Dave L.  |
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David Laughery Registered
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The wheelbase on the little T is three inches exactly. The wheelbase of the real Model T is 100 inches. Now can someone figure the scale of the little T ?  Regards, Dave L.  |
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Nice Guy Eddie Administrator
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Sounds like it's 'slightly off' 1:32 scale. Or 3/8" (ish) to the Foot. 75% the size of your 1:24 models. Your photo looks to be about that ratio. 1:32 is a very popular model car scale. Also probably the most used Slot-Car scale. Oh, & goes with many diecast farm models. Plus of course 54mm figures, 1:32 (ish) Eddie |
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David Laughery Registered
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Eddie I guess if we want to be technical, it's 1:33.3 scale.  Thanks. Regards, Dave L. |
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David Laughery Registered
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I've mentioned the nice 1928 Chevy pickup model by Liberty Classics with its drum load. Often banks have the coin slot in obvious places, but on this version the coin slot is out of sight. The top of the drums lifts, and then swings away to show the slot. Because the slot is hidden, the drums become useful as a detail part as is. When painted they are useful not only as a load, but useful for placement on the layout. I wish I had a bunch of them. Regards, Dave L.    |
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David Laughery Registered
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I've shared photos of my black tank truck. Here is the Liberty Classics Studebaker truck in the Shell livery. Wheels were painted and a spray of Dullcoat finished it. Shell was a common brand of gas in the 1930s, and I was happy to keep the scheme original. Regards, Dave L.  |
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David Laughery Registered
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Ertl's 1912 Ford van seems to come in several versions. The difference lies in the luggage railing on the back of the roof. One version has the railing as a separate, chromed piece, riveted to the roof, which is my choice, and another version has the railing cast on. Regards, Dave L.   |
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David Laughery Registered
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Today I put a Liberty Classics 1917 Studebaker and a 1928 Chevy pickup side by side, and thought if I switched rear castings, I'd have a nice Chevy tank truck. Both models use the same pickup bed, so I thought both tanker rear and pickup rear would simply interchange. Nope. The tanker rear is just a little bit wider than the pickup bed, and doesn't fit between the Chevy fenders. I think Liberty Classics made a marketing mistake. They could have had a nice '28 tank truck to use for promotions. Regards, Dave L.   |
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David Laughery Registered
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Tonight I finished putting a drop of Aleene's Tacky Glue in the headlights of my Ertl Ford Model Ts. The plastic headlights are the chrome color, and when dry the glue gives the effect of a bulb behind the glass. Regards, Dave L.  |
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David Laughery Registered
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As it turns out, Liberty Classics did use the tank casting in their 1929 Ford model, instead of the Chevy. Regards, Dave L.  |
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David Laughery Registered
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I put an Ertl Model T pickup bed and Liberty Classics bed side by side, and wondered what the 1928 Chevy would look like with the Model T bed. As I have a few orange beds in the parts box, I may epoxy one on the Chevy. Mixing parts from all the manufacturers is part of the fun for me. Regards, Dave L.   |
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David Laughery Registered
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I've mentioned the nice Liberty Classics Studebaker tank truck. The first one I added to the collection was a Citgo promotion. Counting on painting the truck and tank, I was dismayed to find the 'Citgo' cast in raised letters. I would have had to grind off the letters, and smooth the side of the tank before painting. Later I discovered that the Citgo version, was the only tank to have raised letters. I no longer buy the Citgo version. Regards, Dave L.   |
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David Laughery Registered
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The pickup beds from the two companies, Ertl and Liberty classics, give modelers many possible variations...  |
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David Laughery Registered
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Here the Liberty Classics bed, is fitted to the Ertl 1912 van chassis. Regards, Dave L.   |
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David Laughery Registered
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Here's the Ertl bed on another 1912 chassis. Regards, Dave L.   |
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David Laughery Registered
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There are so many combinations of parts, from the various diecast vehicles available to the modeler, that vehicles can be truly unique with just a little work. Regards, Dave L.  |
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David Laughery Registered
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Another company that produces suitable vehicles for layouts is The Yorkshire Company. This model of a Ford Model TT one ton truck is a great model. The Ford TT chassis was available from 1917 through 1927, and sold so the owner could install the cab and body of choice. Ford would not offer a truck on this chassis until 1924. During its ten year run Ford produced over a million and a half TTs. The models come in red and Bell Telephone green, as I can determine. Red ones seem pretty scarce. There are none on eBay right now. Regards, Dave L.  |
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David Laughery Registered
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The bed is a bit unusual, there is a tool box (?) on the end. Regards, Dave L.  |
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David Laughery Registered
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The bed comes off by removing two screws, and results in a nice cab and chassis for a different application like a flat bed or box body. Regards, Dave L.   |
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David Laughery Registered
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None of the small pickup beds seem right on this chassis. Regards, Dave L.  |
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David Laughery Registered
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Here's a Ford ad. for a truck. I hope the buyer reads the small print. The full roof and screened sides are an extra cost option. Regards, Dave L.  |
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David Laughery Registered
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For the first few years, before Ford offered the chassis with a body, this is what the buyer got. Priced at $600 in 1917, the price would eventually drop to $395 in later years. The Yorkshire Co. model looks to have a cab and bed by the Field Manufacturing Company of Michigan. Regards, Dave L.  |
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David Laughery Registered
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A new project was this Liberty Classics 1928 Chevy roadster. This model was very inexpensive. It was dirty, no box, and no key for the bank. I like to buy models like this to rework into a credible model. I cleaned it and removed the promotions. There was a funny 'lip' above the windshield. I'm not sure why Liberty Classics had it there, but I cut it off, as I could find no photo of a real car with it. It is now a nice model. Regards, Dave L.   |
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David Laughery Registered
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Here is the family of 1928 Chevys by Liberty Classics, pickup, van, and roadster. Regards, Dave L.  |
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David Laughery Registered
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Two roadsters for the layout. Left is the '28 Chevy, right the '30 Ford. Regards, Dave L.   |
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David Laughery Registered
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Today I put an Ertl '23 Chevy van (left) next to a Liberty Classics '28 Chevy van as a comparison. Both trucks have promotions that are suitable for a 1930s scene. I like that the Liberty Classics van hides the coin slot. Regards, Dave L.  |
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David Laughery Registered
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Liberty Classics used two wheel styles, a spoked wheel, and the disc style that came on their I922 Studebaker model. I wish I had more of them because Chevrolet used them on their roadsters, and I'd like to put some on their 1928 Chevy. Regards, Dave L.   |
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David Laughery Registered
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Chevy's ad. for 1928 shows the disc wheel throughout their line. Regards, Dave L.  |
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Nice Guy Eddie Administrator
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" I hope the buyer reads the small print. The full roof and screened sides are an extra cost option " " ... before Ford offered the chassis with a body, this is what the buyer got " Henry could have at least included a cheap wooden-crate to sit on ! Splinters (OUCH !) sanded down, if the budget would stretch to it !! I suppose in 1917 that would, possibly, almost make it roadworthy. But I guess you'd also need license-plate mountings & an ash-tray. Always wondered how Charlton Heston looked such a pro. in Ben Hur. The studio must have had one of these, for practice around the lot ! Eddie |
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David Laughery Registered
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Eddie I've read that final destination drivers for a Model T, and I assume, Model TT chassis, had a portable cabin erected on the bare chassis to keep them out of the weather in winter. I don't know what the seat was made of. Looks like this guy's box even has a back rest ! Regards, Dave L.  |
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David Laughery Registered
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Here's a side-by-side (?) Model T and TT chassis. Many after market body styles were sold to fit either. Regards, Dave L.  |
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David Laughery Registered
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An easy little project was to remove the big sticker on this Ertl '23 Chevy van. It was fortunate that I could catch a corner, and very slowly remove it. There is some sticky residue remaining, and I'll need to remove that. Regards, Dave L.    |
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David Laughery Registered
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The sticky residue proved to be difficult to remove. I did not have anything but WD-40 on hand. So I let the liquid sit on the truck side for a couple of hours, then scraped the softened residue off with .040" plastic. Final hard scrubbing with a rag finished the job. Regards, Dave L.  |
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David Laughery Registered
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MotorMax offers these Ford Model Ts. Pros are very good wheels, opening hood to expose a motor, and excellent detail on the tops. The cons would be the outlandish colors and a higher cost. I've been tempted to brush paint them black while assembled, as putting the hood back together can be frustrating. Don't ask how I know. Regards, Dave L.   |
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David Laughery Registered
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Both wheels on Liberty Classics models of the '28 Chevy (left) and the early Studebaker, are correct for these cars. I am surprised that they did this. This is part of the reason I really appreciate Liberty Classics models. Regards, Dave L.   |
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David Laughery Registered
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I have only two Model Ts by Gearbox. I don't like them very much. Their proportions don't seem correct, the front fenders are wrong, and their wheels are not well done at all. These are going to a flea market very soon. Regards, Dave L.    |
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David Laughery Registered
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I've added a new Ertl 1917 Ford van to my collection. I don't usually buy promotional vehicles that I wouldn't convert to a possible layout use, but Boscovs is a local concern. Copyrighted 1998, this model has some new features.   |
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David Laughery Registered
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This model has a black radiator insert, and clear headlight and cowl light lenses. A smooth roof unlike the older (?) version with a cast luggage area is evident.   |
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David Laughery Registered
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The body slips over a lug at the rear, and is held in place by one screw at the front. The body was 'riveted' on my old version. The Boscovs van is much improved over my old Heinz van. Regards, Dave L.  |
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David Laughery Registered
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Here is a collection of Liberty Classics roadsters. Left to right are Chevy, Studebaker, and Ford. All are well done. Regards, Dave L.  |
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David Laughery Registered
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Last night I took a white Sharpie and filled in the cowl lights on my Ertl Model Ts. I like the white effect, rather than the chrome. On the real Model Ts the lenses were clear, and the lights were kerosene fired. A little dab of Eileen's Tacky Glue to simulate a lens would finish the light. Regards, Dave L.   |
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David Laughery Registered
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Markers and Tacky Glue can make a nice Model T for the layout. I've darkened the radiator, whitened the cowl lights, and added lenses to the headlights on this model. Chrome wheels were painted black to match the body paint, and I exchanged the black tires for the white ones. The model has the after-market 'trunk' in back. I'm searching for clear material to add windshield glass. Thanks for following along. Regards, Dave L.  |
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David Laughery Registered
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By now you've figured out that I am a fan of Ford's Model T car and TT trucks. I saw my first T when I was fourteen years old, and have loved them ever since. A dream was to own one, but it never happened. When I discovered Ertl's diecast version (they identify it as a 1918 runabout) I began to collect and modify these promotional cars. There must be hundreds of versions in many colors out there. I still need to make rear 'turtleback' trunks for many of my cars like this one. Regards, Dave L.   |
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David Laughery Registered
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This is a real 'turtleback trunk' for a T. I'll use this photo to model some. I'll try making a master and casting a few some day. Regards, Dave L.  |
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David Laughery Registered
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One of the things I like about the Ertl model is the wheels and real rubber tires. Although not an exact representation it is close. The number of spokes is correct, as is the shape of the spokes, but the axle stub and hub cap are missing. Regards, Dave L.   |
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David Laughery Registered
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I've mentioned Ertl's 1927 Graham Brothers truck in previous posts. I've just added this version with the Havoline scheme. It has a very unusual pearlescent paint which may not show well in the photo. Ertl has white sidewalls on the tires, and I think to save a bit they've used four wheels the same instead of the different wheels with the backing plate on the rear.  |
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David Laughery Registered
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It has the double opening doors on the rear.   |
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David Laughery Registered
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The Graham Brothers is unusual as it has a separate full chassis and a complete drive train of engine, drive shaft, and rear axle. This is a chassis from a different model. Two screws hold it to the body.   |
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David Laughery Registered
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The drive train shows better in this photo of the Havoline truck underside. The chassis was painted after being installed on the body. Drive train parts were added after painting.  |
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David Laughery Registered
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The wheels are especially well done and an accurate rendition of the real wheel. Notice the 'GB' cast on one of the spokes. No, the model wheel does not have it. The real wheel is a rear, see the backing plate. Regards, Dave L.   |
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David Laughery Registered
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Sorry, I couldn't resist including a shot of the hub cap. Regards, Dave L.  |
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David Laughery Registered
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I am planning a project using a Ford model A cab on the Graham Brothers fenders and chassis. I get the feeling the cab on the model is a bit short, it seems to me it should sit a little taller. I am asking for opinions, are the proportions of the cab correct ? What do you think ? Thanks, Dave L.    |
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David Laughery Registered
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FINALLY, a model of a closed car and not a convertible ! This '31 Ford Tudor from Liberty Classics arrived today. I am pleased that it has glass and actual openings for the rear windows. When I ordered it I could not tell and suspected it might have metal window depressions and not actual openings. I am pleased and surprised that the car has a rear seat, too. A coin slot is in the back, I'll have to paint the wheels. The TSC promotion came off with Testor's Plastic Cement. Regards, Dave L.   |
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David Laughery Registered
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Wheels are painted black. To finish this model I would need to paint hubcaps silver and Dullcoat the Black top. The top was some sort of fabric cover (canvas?) and was not shiny, I'm sure. This model is pretty rare on eBay. I've only ever seen two and I bought this one. Regards, Dave L.  |
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corv8 Registered
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The black wheels make all the difference from a toy to a model. |
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David Laughery Registered
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From what I've read, Gerold, black wheels were standard. Buyers of new cars could have the dealer paint the wheels optional colors. I think the Liberty Classics folks must think the 'chrome' wheels are attractive to the toy buyers. I've seen their model cars with black wheels. I wish they would just use them and save me the effort to paint them. Regards, Dave L. |
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David Laughery Registered
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Today in PA it was nice out on the deck and I was able to prime two truck bodies. The 1920 International's paint was ruined when I tried to remove sticker residue. The 1930s Ford truck had promotions that did not come off with the Testor's cement (unusual) so it needs a full repaint. The Ford has some rough spots that will need some work. Final color for both will depend on what I have on hand. Regards, Dave L.  |
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David Laughery Registered
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I put a coat of paint on the Ertl 1920 International. To be honest, the best thing about the model are the wheels, which are nicely done. The model is crudely cast and lacking of detail. There is no glass, and the interior is in plain view of the huge front windshield area. I think I'll keep the wheels and put the body in the parts box. Regards, Dave L.   |
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David Laughery Registered
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The Liberty Classics 1930s Ford van is looking better with its silver color. I need to paint the wheels black, yet, and then put it back together. Regards, Dave L.  |
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David Laughery Registered
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The International body is in the parts box. The Ford was sitting beside the extra wheels on the workspace. It was inevitable, what would they look like under the Ford ? I may end up with this combination. I like it. Regards, Dave L.   |
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David Laughery Registered
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The '30s Ford is back together. I've kept the International wheels. Will anyone ever notice ? Regards, Dave L.  |
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David Laughery Registered
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I am really liking these Liberty classics Ford Model As. These three versions are well done. Left to right: Tudor sedan, delivery van, and the roadster. Regards, Dave L.  |
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David Laughery Registered
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I was thinking about a project using a Liberty Classics pickup cab on the Ertl '27 Graham Brothers fenders and chassis. Next to the Tudor front end the pickup cab seems too small. I have decided not to start this project. Regards, Dave L.   |
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David Laughery Registered
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Some research using official Ford photos shows that, the spare tire for the Tudor was carried above the rear bumper, as on the roadster model, and not on the side. I did find many photos of restored Tudors with the spare on the side. Are there any Model A restorers here who can clarify this ? Thanks, Regards, Dave L.  |
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David Laughery Registered
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I first thought that I might be able to swap bodies. I could put the Tudor body on a Chevy chassis as I thought both Liberty Classics models used the same chassis. No, the fender castings are different. No project here. Regards, Dave L.   |
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corv8 Registered
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It's remarkable that the rear axle and its suspension is of completely different construction. |
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David Laughery Registered
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Gerold, It is. I would have liked to do that swap. I can find NO official Ford photo of a '28-'31 Tudor with the side mounted spare, they are always on the back bumper. I even have a video showing Tudors coming off the production line only with rear spares. I am suspecting that restorers are using fenders with the wheel well salvaged from other A models like roadsters. Regards, Dave L. |
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David Laughery Registered
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I've mentioned that I thought the cabs on the Liberty Classics Model A trucks seemed small to me, compared to their cars. I sent all my '28 trucks to the flea market and they are gone, leaving me with another Ertl 1927 Graham Brothers van. I'll put it away until the day comes when a project comes to mind. Regards, Dave L.  |
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David Laughery Registered
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I am very impressed with these models. Here is my fleet of 1927 Graham Brothers trucks, presently on the shelf. Regards, Dave L.  |
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David Laughery Registered
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A few years ago I made a van into a pickup. As I recall the metal was pretty tough to cut with my hand hacksaw. It is presently in storage somewhere in the basement. Regards, Dave L.  |
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David Laughery Registered
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The chassis from the extra Ace van will be mated with a cab cut from the white shell. I've drawn the cut line in blue, the cut will be immediately behind the small window, which was a Graham Brothers feature. I've never seen the small window with grids on a real '27 truck. The final model will be a flat bed or a dump truck. I haven't made up my mind, yet. Regards, Dave L.  |
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David Laughery Registered
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I am always drawn to this Graham Brothers ad. for a dump truck. I think I would need to cut the fender casting at the back of the cab as well. It would be a fun build. Regards, Dave L.  |
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David Laughery Registered
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I've been curious as to how the old dump trucks raised their beds to unload. The worst way, I think, would be to hand crank it like this poor fellow. I wonder how many loads a day he had to crank. Regards, Dave L.  |
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David Laughery Registered
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Some beds were operated using a gear train powered by a power take off from the engine or transmission. Hydraulic power was invented by Gar Wood, who received a patent for his invention in 1915. Regards, Dave L.   |
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corv8 Registered
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David Laughery wrote:
Thirty years ago I saw a BIG truck from the Fifties with a crank operated side tipper. I guess it's easier to get the load to slide off when it tips sideways. |
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David Laughery Registered
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Gerold I still would not like cranking a load either way. Regards, Dave L. |
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David Laughery Registered
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Last night I pulled some Ertl 1923 Chevies from the shelf. Years ago when I started adapting promotional diecasts to use on a layout I did one of these, although not one in the photo. The green van has a total repaint, and the red van just had the promotion removed. The third has the Red Crown Gas livery, which is appropriate for my layout's time period. Some day I may fill the slots, but that is a major project. Regards, Dave L.   |
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David Laughery Registered
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Liberty Classics produced this model of the 1928-1931 Ford Tudor for the Henry Ford Museum. It has the two color body and a nice, full, brown interior. The wheels were a popular yellow option for these cars, although black was the standard color. As it comes with no promotions except a mention of the Museum on the rear, I considerate it a nice scale model, accurate except for the side mounted spare wheel. A 1931 Tudor would have cowl lights, so this would be a '28-'30 car. I've included a photo of a real car. Regards, Dave L.       |
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corv8 Registered
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What a difference between the delicate spokes on the prototype and the clumsy ones of the model. Maybe you can swap them for some nicer ones. |
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David Laughery Registered
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Gerold There just is not a big choice for wheels for our models. Solid wheels are easier to make. Regards, Dave L. |
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