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David Laughery
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Finding vehicles for the layout can be a challenge. 

My layout will be set in 1935, so finding vehicles
(1910s, 1920s, 1930s) has been difficult.

I've discovered two companies that offer diecast cars and trucks,
appropriate for my era.  Ertl and Liberty Classics. 

Ertl seems to offer early Chevy trucks and Ford Model T cars,
while Liberty Classics offers a line of early Studebaker cars and trucks.

I've discussed many of my projects with vehicles in my other threads,
but some may not have followed, so this might be a new area of interest. 

Regards, Dave L. 





David Laughery
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My primary source for vehicles, is the diecast models,
offered by Ertl and Liberty Classics. 

Often these are covered with lettering and logos,
and would stand out on the layout as not very realistic. 

They need to have promotional lettering and logos removed,
and then need to be painted. 

Here a nice model of a 1917 Maxwell Touring car,
before and after repainting. 

Regards, Dave L. 





David Laughery
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Here is a line up of the Studebakers offered by Liberty Classics. 

They all started as promotional models,
and needed to be redone. 

The Citgo tanker has not been redone yet. 

Regards, Dave L. 





David Laughery
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The Ertl Ford Model Ts are nice models. 

Regards, Dave L. 





David Laughery
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One of my favorite diecasts is this 1916 Studebaker truck,
by Liberty Classics, made for the Lennox company. 

It is the only one of theirs that comes with a driver (Dave Lennox),
so I seek these  above their other trucks. 

Regards, Dave L. 





David Laughery
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These pickups are very adaptable. 

Here one is just the pickup,
and the other is modified into a stake body. 

Regards, Dave L. 





David Laughery
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The truck comes in several versions. 

The tanker and a covered bed (and the Lennox version)
can be found on eBay and sometimes on Amazon.

Regards, Dave L. 





David Laughery
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The Liberty Classics Studebaker comes with the top up or down. 

I added a very tall driver to the open car. 

Regards, Dave L. 





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These cars have been repainted. 

The green convertible was the first diecast project,
and started my "hobby within a hobby" years ago. 

It was a promotional car for prunes,
as I remember. 

Regards, Dave L. 





David Laughery
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The first thing I do,
is darken the radiator with a black magic marker. 

I've found 1935 license plates on the net, and in reference books,
and printed some for my vehicles. 

Regards, Dave L. 





David Laughery
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Another  Liberty Classics Studebaker is the panel truck.  Although a bank, the coin slot is out of sight in the rear.  There is no need to fill a slot on the roof!  I've removed the promotional lettering on the side.  Regards, Dave L. 



David Laughery
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A nice feature of these vans is that the body is cast in two parts and makes a nice open bed truck when the top is left off after disassembly.  Regards, Dave L. 



brianwbc
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You have a wonderful collection, Dave!

Thanks for posting them. 



David Laughery
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Thanks, Brian.  I've been building model cars and trucks for most of my life.  I've only discovered the usefulness of these diecasts in the last couple of years when Gn15 and 1/24 scale vehicles merged and I had a new hobby within a hobby.
I just added another Studebaker to the collection today ( a 1922 pickup).  I'l share photos when it arrives.  Here is a shot of part of the collection.  Regards, Dave L. 



David Laughery
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As I have mentioned, these models are often odd colors and covered with gaudy promotions.  Here is a Liberty Classics van with its decoration.  ...



David Laughery
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To remove lettering and logos I use Testor's Plastic Cement to eliminate the unrealistic promotions.  In just a few seconds the lettering is dissolved and a quick wipe with a cloth finishes the job.  I cannot  say that this works on all brands of paint, but works on the Ertl and Liberty Classics vehicles.  Regards, Dave L.

WARNING: Use this cement in a well ventilated area, and please DO NOT SMOKE  :mex:  near this cement.



David Laughery
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The Liberty Classics vehicles are assembled with small screws.  The wheels and axels each have one screw, and screws hold the bed or body and interior together.  Here is the underside of one.  Regards, Dave L. 



David Laughery
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Ertl makes a nice Ford Model T that is the basis of many of my adaptations.  It would fit into any era from the teens to the 1930s or 1940s, or even later. 



David Laughery
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Once they are painted they are more realistic than the brightly painted promotional versions.  Model Ts were black after 1914, and the curved rear fender places their model as 1915 or later.  The brass radiator should also be black, but I leave them as is because I like them.  Regards, Dave L. 



David Laughery
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The Ertl comes in four versions, as I have determined, simply by which rear casting is used, determined by the promotion.  All are historical, based on photos, although the barrel could have been.
Over the years many aftermarket companies made components to add the Model T body, so anything was possible, and Ertl made these four versions.  Regards, Dave L. 



David Laughery
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The Ertl Model Ts come apart into these basic parts.  Here are the parts for the tanker version.  You can see the need for some paint work.  Regards, Dave L. 



David Laughery
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The Ertl Model Ts can be assembled at the factory two ways.  The easiest version to take apart uses screws.  More difficult to take apart are cars that have lugs that are peened over, somewhat like a rivet.  To take these apart you have to drill out the peened over lug and separate.  Not too easy, and putting the cars back together requires using an adhesive like superglue.  If you ever have a choice, go for the screwed version.  In the photo the car on the right uses screws.  Regards, Dave L.  


 

David Laughery
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It is easier to see the "rivets" on this car.  Regards, Dave L. 



David Laughery
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Screws or rivets. 



David Laughery
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Sometimes Ertl uses different length screws so I'll ID them by putting the odd one in a piece of paper and mark it.  I learned this by trying to put a long screw into a short hole and wondered why it became impossible.  Regards, Dave L. 



David Laughery
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I think you can tell that I like the Ertl Ford Model Ts.  I have done a lot of them and painted a few in unauthentic colors, but I like them.  Here are a few:  Regards, Dave L. 


 

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David Laughery
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David Laughery
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Besides Ford Model Ts, Ertl makes a 1923 Chevy Truck.  The promotion on the side looks like it might fit my era so I have not repainted it.  I even like the color of the wheels, which usually need to be painted on most models.  Regards, Dave L. 



David Laughery
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One of Ertl's 1923 Chevy vans was painted as a Hemmings promotion.  I liked the color and the wheels were even a matching green, so would they would not need painted.
A big surprise was that somewhere along the way Ertl went from painting the promotion on their vehicles to applying clear stickers which were not affected by the Testor's Cement.  This meant that I would have to repaint the whole body.  Dave L. 



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A coat of primer was applied...



David Laughery
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The final green color was not the same as the Hemming's green, but I like it anyway.  A problem with the stickers is that the lettering can be slightly seen under the new paint. Regards, Dave L. 



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This red Chevy van had an actual painted promotion and the Testor's Cement readily removed it.  I dullcoated this one to use on an actual layout.  Regards, Dave L. 



David Laughery
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If early Fords and Chevys don't fit your era, there are diecasts for all the decades.  A quick look on Amazon and eBay today saw vehicles from the 1930s up to the present.  You are especially fortunate if you model the 1950s.
I have a friend who does painting and conversions of diecasts, too, although he models a later era than I do.  Here is one of his models that he repainted.  Regards, Dave L. 



David Laughery
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Another vintage vehicle in the Ertl collection is this 1912 Ford truck. 



David Laughery
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I really like this model because the body's top is a separate casting.  When removed a chassis, interior, and hood is available for modification to another body style.  Regards, Dave L. 



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Here is a chassis ready for modification.  One possible style is displayed in the photo.  I've mentioned that many truck body configurations were available from after-market companies.  My list of these companies numbers over thirty; there were a lot of home made bodies put on the Ford chassis, too.  Regards, Dave L. 



David Laughery
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There is considerable information on early vehicles in books and on the internet.  The Ford Model T cars and trucks are covered in a number of excellent books, and Google Images has numerous images of these vehicles.  Regards, Dave L. 



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Here is a favorite body style that will be built on one of these 1912 chassis some day.  Dave L. 



David Laughery
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On some models the wheels will be a matching color, but most diecasts' wheels will need to be painted.  Some early Ford wheels were black (as were most cars' wheels), but natural wood spokes were seen, too.  I paint most wheels black, and occasionally paint them a wood color.  I use Rustoleum semi gloss black for wheels, fenders, and bodies.  Dave L. 



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Here is my setup for wheel painting.  Dave L. 



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Wheels ready for assembly. Ertl tires can be black or white.  Natural rubber tires were white and about 1920 carbon black was added to the rubber to help make them more durable.  You see models with either.  I often mix or match tire color to suit the model's color.  Regards, Dave L. 



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Another nice model in Ertl's line up is this 1917 Maxwell Touring car.  I have only seen the model  decorated for the Texaco Company commemorating a race in 1917.   The Maxwell ran from Newark, NJ, to Los Angeles and did it n an incredible ten days and sixteen hours.
I have both versions, the race car, and a standard touring in my collection.  To be honest, I've done more than one model in the black; it is a nice model.  Regards, Dave L. 



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Here is the real car.  I'm not sure if the fenders were red.  Regards, Dave L. 



David Laughery
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Another nice model is this 1927 Graham Brothers truck. 



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Ace Hardware used this model in their promotion.  With the advertisement removed it became a nice truck.  Research found that there was a pickup version in 1927, and I started to cut down one of the models into a pickup. 



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Cutting the metal proved to be a tough job, but a pickup version was almost finished.  The front grill needed to be attached.  Dave L. 



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Final 1927 Graham Brothers pickup truck.  Dave L. 



David Laughery
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A nice truck is this 1927 Ford TT that was promoted by Bell Telephone in 1987 and offered by the Yorkshire Co..  It came as this flat bed version and as a lift version.  My first model arrived with a broken front wheel, so the wheel on this model is not what was on this truck.  It was the closest replacement  I could find. 
The cab on this represents an after-market cab (and bed) offered by the Field Manufacturing Co. in Michigan.  Ford was still selling bare chassis for the owner to add his choice of cab and bed.  Dave L. 



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The point of this thread is that there is a tremendous source of vehicles for large scale layouts-diecast cars and trucks from all decades. My interest is the early years, until 1935. My layout will be set in 1935, so that is the reason for my concentrating on these years.
While a few models would be useable as is, most will require a little work painting and detailing to be realistic. Thanks for following along. Should anyone do a project with a diecast I hope you will share it in this thread. Regards, Dave L.

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Dave,

Thanks for all the information on the vehicles.  There are many similar models in both 1/32 scale (useful for those few of us that model in 1/35 scale), and in 1/48 or 1/45 scale.  many of your modifications can be used in any scale.

I'm wondering if that Bell System truck was really a promotional item put out by Ma Bell, or something Yorkshire did on their own.  The old Bell System was broken up on January 1, 1984.  I was there and is was an absolute mess.  In my building (El Monte, CA) there was tape running down the floor to indicate the AT&T side and Pacific Bell side, and you were not allowed to cross the line.  If you needed to talk with a Pac Bell person you had to go through channels instead of just walking across the room and talking to them in person.  Near impossible to get anything accomplished.  Pac Bell eventually moved out and AT&T (the Death Star...just look at their logo) had the building to themselves.  Ma Bell never understood what it was like to have to compete in the open market and nearly went under.  In spite of repeated assurances that our jobs were secure AT&T closed the site and layed off some 250 people.  Given the disaster going on at the time I question if anyone had the time to do a promotional item, though I suppose it is possible.

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Michael, every diecast I've done has been a promotional model.  I assumed that it was the same with the Bell truck.  The box shows the two styles and even a pen set for the desk.  I guess we'll never know the story.  Thanks for the info on Bell.  Regards, Dave L. 



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This nice 1922 Studebaker arrived today.  It is a Liberty Classics model.  Regards, Dave L. 



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I like that Studebaker.



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Great Thread guys.

Please review the process,
for removing and replacing the axles and painting wheels in detail.

I just found a couple of really good candidates for the period,
and don't want to mess up the axles to where they can't be reassembled.


David Laughery
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Wes, give us some details about your vehicles.  What are the scale and maker of your vehicles.  Are the whets pressed onto the axles or are the ends of the axels protruding through the wheels and peened over?  If they are Ertl pr Liberty Classics and have screws it will be easier.  Photos will help.  Regards, Dave L.

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The lettering and promotion came right off within seconds on my Liberty Classics 1922 Studie using the Testor's Cement trick.  There is a stiff breeze blowing through the window today here in PA so I did it here by the computer.  Always use good ventilation when using this stuff!  Regards, Dave L. 



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Wes, hopefully you'll not have to remove the wheels from the axels, but can get to them as a wheel and axel unit.  Spoked wheels are more delicate, as the result of the shipping of my Ford TT truck shows.  The wheel was beyond repair.  I had a few wheels in the parts box, but they are not a match.  Waiting to see what your vehicles are.  Regards, Dave L.   



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Tonight I took a closer look at this truck and replaced the rear wheels to match the front's.  There is a nice frame when the cast bed is removed, and a lot of possibilities for a new body  are evident.  Regards, Dave L. 



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Do you think this is junk?

I screwed up a posting intended to show more info about the Ford TT trucks.
They had rear wheels with more and thicker spokes and bigger tires to carry the weight.

For some reason Firefox doesn't allow me to post pictures so things go weird from time to time.
But if you Google "Ford TT" you will see what I meant.

Jose.


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Jose, I know those wheels are not quite right for a Ford TT. Over the years finding suitable wheels for my vintage truck models has been difficult. You are correct that the rear wheels were more robust, to carry the weight. Thanks for adding that info. Regards, Dave L.

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Here is a comparison of the wheel that came on the truck and my replacement.  If one wheel had not been broken in shipping I would have kept the originals.  They seem too small in diameter, to my eye, although the tires are more appropriate.  Jose is correct that rear wheels and tires were different on the TT.  Regards, Dave L. 



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I was curious as to how a Liberty Classics wheel and tire compared to a Yorkshire and my replacement wheel.  I think the Liberty Classics wheel would be a good one for the rear of the model, but I hate to sacrifice a model just for the wheels.  The Liberty Classics wheel is on the left.  Regards, Dave L. 



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If your log-fire back home was larger than average

Some further customization was essential


Good traction for the start on a very muddy 1/4 mile challenge

Might slow you down in the long run though


A nice conversion possibility needing only wheels & a log basically

Bright paintwork with flames down the side is optional


:P


Eddie


David Laughery
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Neat! I can see a whole new Gn15 layout based on that truck: "S. Charles Matchstick Co.". :Salute: Regards, Dave L.

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David: you may try casting copies of the wheels. Not that hard.
Jose.

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Jose, I always considered casting as a difficult process with wheels since there are two sides to reproduce.  I've often thought that 3-D printing would be a solution, too, but it is beyond my skill.  Regards, Dave L.

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You can try casting two halves and then gluing them together.
Jose.

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Jose, Good idea.  I might give it a try.  Thanks, Regards, Dave L.

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I was curious how this Liberty Classics 1922 Studebaker came apart.  Two screws separate the body from the chassis, and five little screws undo the crate load.  One screw is located inside the crate load.  It would be easy to replace the load if one desired.  Regards, Dave L. 
 



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I would like to share a few of the vehicles in the collection.  This is a 1928 Chevy pickup by Liberty Classics.  They are available as promotional models on E bay.  I've removed the lettering, painted the wheels, and finally dull coated the model.  The coin slot is hidden under the top of one of the crates in the bed.  Regards, Dave L. 



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This 1930 Ford Model A has working doors, hood, and rumble seat.  The manufacturer of the model is unknown.  Regards, Dave L. 



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This 1930s Good Humor Ice Cream truck is a a fine example of a diecast vehicle suitable for a large scale scene.  It has opening doors, detailed engine under the opening hood, steerable front wheels, and an opening door to the "ice box".  Research shows it was offered by the Danbury Mint.   Regards, Dave L. 



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This mail truck appears to be a Danbury Mint issue, but when comparing to photos of the Mint's version there are slight differences, so I don't think it is a Danbury Mint truck.   Regards, Dave L. 



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Motormax makes some Model Ts and  other suitable vehicles.  These Ts come with tops up or down.  This Touring and a roadster are available  on Amazon and Ebay.  Regards, Dave L. 



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Filling station accessories are available in 1/24 scale, but can be hard to find.  These represent gas pumps from the 1930s and will work well with my layout's setting.  Regards, Davee L. 



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This Ertl tank truck will be repainted to go with the pumps.  There are many photos of Red Crown trucks on the net to help.  Regards, Dave L. 



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Motor bikes in 1/24 scale can be found for most eras.  Regards, Dave L. 



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I finally found a Red Crown Ertl tank truck on Ebay to go with my pumps.  I painted the wheels and now am thinking seriously about a filling station scene to display it all.  Regards, Dave L. 



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Your vintage vehicles can choose their favorite brands.  Regards, Dave L. 



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Another version of the Yorkshire Co.'s Ford TT showed up.  It would make a nice peddler's truck with a load of vegetables in the back and a new color.  Regards, Dave L. 



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A company that offers large scale vehicles is Gearbox.  Their gas pumps are really nice, as are their vehicles, except that I don't care for their wheels.  They seem to be undersize, to my eye, and the detail is not there.  It is a matter of choice... 



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Here is a side-by-side comparison of the Ertl (left) and the Gearbox (right) tank trucks.  The Gearbox truck and pump came as a set.  Regards, Dave L.  



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I hope this Thread has been interesting and has illustrated,
that diecasts from Ertl, Liberty Classics, Motormax, Yorkshire Co., and Gearbox,
are a good source of vehicles for Gn15 and other Large Scale applications. 

Although my interest is in the early decades if the twentieth century,
diecast vehicles from any era are available. 

I've enjoyed sharing some of my projects on the Forum.  

Regards, Dave L.


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I removed the heavy cast metal bed from this Yorkshire Co.  Ford TT and decided to make a flat bed. 



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The flat bed was easy to make, and I'll paint it and the cab together.  You might notice this is a different truck than in the photo above.  For some reason the cab had been hot glued to the chassis, making it impossible to separate.  You can see globs of the glue between the rails and under the cab.  I suspect some issue with stripped threads at the Chinese factory is the reason.  Regards, Dave L. 




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A future project will be mounting the Ertl tank to the Yorkshire  TT chassis.  I'll paint the tank silver and the side boxes black to match the truck's black.  Removing and painting the cab then will not be necessary.  I'll need to cut off the tang on the tank and figure a way to attach with screws.  Too bad the mounting holes do not match up.  I'll cover the coin slot while I'm at it, too.  It should be a nice model when done.  Thanks for looking.  Regards, Dave L. 



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Dave,

I'm interested in seeing how you fill up those slots.

That's the main thing that keeps me away from those bank cars.

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Michael

The easiest way to fill a slot is to just cover it. 

I've glued a thin piece of styrene sheet over the top of the tank's cabinet
(Aleene's Tacky Glue)  I'll trim it when it is dry. 

Liberty Classics models put the slots out of sight in the back, or hidden under a load.

When I have to actually fill a slot, I glue a supporting piece to inside the slot,
and then fill with auto spot putty.  Sand and then paint. 

It is a pain so I try to avoid it. 

Regards, Dave L. 





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Here you can see that the two coin slots on these Liberty Classics and Ertl vehicles are nicely hidden. 

Regards, Dave L. 





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Hi Dave  :wave:


I really like your 2 gas-pump & tanker couples !  :thumb:  :thumb:















Not forgetting the nice 'Eagle' pump & cute compressed-air pump !  :thumb:





There are some GREAT 'non-railroad' models available for 1:24 scale.
Thanks for Posting on what they are & where to find them.  :old dude:


I have enjoyed collecting up a few nice 1:35 vehicle kits to build & diecasts to use.  :bg:

I think most folk like their vehicles as much as trains & structures ! 


:java: :moose: :dt:


Si.


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Thanks Si.

So many areas of modeling large scale are available. 

I love nautical models (especially steamboats),
and 1920-1930s aviation subjects, too. 

If I were to have the time and space,
I bet I could get them all incorporated in a single Gn15 Layout! 

I see a steamboat landing and seaplane facility,
where passengers board a Gn15 rail-line to travel inland. 

Best regard's, Dave L.


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Here is an interesting photo of a friend's large scale vehicle. 

He works in plaster and casts the rough forms in home made molds. 

Here is a before and after of the same car. 


Regards, Dave L. 





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My friend displays his models in this diorama. 

Regards, Dave L.

 

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Today I pulled some of my favorite truck models from the shelf.  I am unable to work on   projects right now, so I enjoy just looking at them.  I thought you might like to see them again, Too.  Regards, Dave L. 



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The Yorkshire Co.'s Ford Model TT truck is a great model.  The bed unscrews if one wants to make another style.  This model comes with what looks like a Field Manufacturing Co. optional body and bed.  Ford was selling bare chassis so the owner could add whatever he chose.  I am working on a flat bed for one of these models.  Regards, Dave L. 



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Here is the flat bed for the TT truck..



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The bed needs painting and then glued to the truck frame.  Regards, Dave L. 



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One of my favorites is this 1917 Studebaker by Liberty Classics. 

I've added a new stake bed to it. 


Regards, Dave L. 





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A shot of my favorite autos. 

Left to right:  Maxwell, two Studebakers, and a Ford Model T. 


Thanks for looking.

Regards, Dave L. 





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In another thread a discussion on the relative size of models came up. 

Here a large scale vehicle and a 9 Volt battery are contrasted.

Regards, Dave L. 




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Today an Ertl 1912 Ford arrived from Ebay. 

I really like this model because the body shell is separate,
from the hood, interior, and fenders...





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The model comes apart with two screws.

The parts look like this. 





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A great early Ford chassis is available for adding a custom body. 


Regards, Dave L. 





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A project I have been thinking about for a while,
is the mating of a Yorkshire Co. Ford TT to an Ertl tank body.  


Regards, Dave L. 





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The bed of the TT comes off easily with two screws. 





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I know I'll have to remove the tang on the tank body,
and need to think if I need to trim off a little bit of the truck's frame, as well. 

The project will be on hold at this stage,
until my son can get to the workshop and do some hacksawing. 


Regards, Dave L.   





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I do have the option of just using the tank part of the Ertl assembly,
but I think I'll go with the tank and bed. 

Plans are to paint the bottom of the tank black,
and the actual tank silver.


Regards, Dave L. 





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There are numerous books and internet photos, 
that can help with the modeling of gas stations. 

I am thinking that I'll display some of my models in such a scene,
for use on a future layout. 


Regards, Dave L. 





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I really like this filling station.
It would make a nice model. 




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Yesterday we were able to remove the tang and frame extensions on the tuck. 

The hacksaw made it a quick job.. 





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After painting I can mate the two parts,
and have a nice tank truck. 


Regards, Dave L. 





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Paint is all that's needed to finish these trucks.





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Once painted, I'll be joining metal parts to metal,
and think my usual Aleene's Tacky Glue might not be strong enough. 

I am going to try JB Weld for this. 

I've never used it,
does anyone have experience with this glue? 


Regards, Dave L. 





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I've used JB Weld before. 
It's a two-part epoxy. 

It's pretty strong,
as long as you don't put an excessive amount of pressure on it. 

Not much working time once you mix the two parts together.
Try to keep it off your fingers.


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Thanks, Michael. 

My only experience with an epoxy years ago, did not go well. 
I hope this works better. 

Regards, Dave L. 


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I have used it a lot.

Prefer the 1 hour cure time, seems to be stronger.
24 hour cure time strongest of them all.

Been able to drill and tap in it.

Epoxy prefers clean and slightly rough surfaces.

Regards, Jose.


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Thanks for the tip about being clean and rough. 

Regards, Dave L.



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I like using, the 2-part 24-hour, Epoxy Resin for many things.

The longer curing gives more time for THOROUGH epoxy mixing !

Also less mayhem, as it's not going solid, before it's on anything.


GREASY surfaces, and OXIDE layers, is what epoxy doesn't like !

Wiping over with Meths & not gluing un-anodized aluminum helps.

Meths wiping tends to be fine on most paints & surfaces encountered.


In the end it's good ol' light & unseen fingerprint grease that it hates !

Something that ALL glues work better without, but especially Epoxy.

Tacky glue, rubber glue, ABS solvent & absorbed PVA can beat grease.


I would agree with Jose words of wisdom as well (who'd DARE not to !)

Roughed surfaces, lightly sanded & dust free, or cross-scored are good.

Jose's Mrs. always reminds him to do that, after he 'fixed' her Ming vase !


I have the 2-part 1-hour Epoxy Resin on hand as well, for some uses.

For rock solid mechanical, metal-on-metal, 24-hour's THE LAW though !


:dt:


Eddie


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Thanks, Eddie, and Jose, too.

When ready to glue the parts I'll rough the surfaces with something,
and then clean with alcohol wipes to remove grease and oil.

Regards, Dave L.


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Today another version of the Yorkshire Co. Ford TT came,
painted red, stickered for PP&L.





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It came apart with screws into these parts. 





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As far as I know, this truck comes in red and green. 


Regards, Dave L. 





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Looking at these trucks today I noticed that the cabs were different. 
Some have the back window and some do not. 

Curious. 


Regards, Dave L. 





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The flatbed and tank truck Ford TTs are finished. 

I used the Yorkshire Co. models as a basis,
and added the Ertl tank to make the tanker. 

The flatbed was made from plastic. 





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Here is my fleet of Ford TTs. 

Regards, Dave L. 



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The other day this catalog from Fairfield Collectables arrived,
listing many pages of 1:24, 1:18, and some other scale vehicles from all eras.

Many prices for these 1:24 models are under $20


It shows that one can order online at:  

http://www.fairfieldcollectables.com 


I have not ordered from them. 
Just passing this along to fellow large scale modelers. 


Regards, Dave L. 





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Today I pulled an example of a,
Liberty Classics (L), an Ertl (middle), and Yorkshire Co. (R), truck from the shelf,
to again highlight the three companies that are the sources for nice large scale vehicles. 

For my time period that I model these companies offer a good choice to use,
with some repainting, or as sources for adaptations of the basic model. 

Regards, Dave L.





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Passenger cars are nicely represented by,
Liberty Classics Studebaker (L), and the Ertl Maxwell and Ford Model T (middle and R). 

Again, these fit my modeling era,
but both of these companies offer models of later time periods. 

Amazon often has these offered,
but there are many more choices on Ebay, often for very reasonable prices.

Regards, Dave L. 





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Up to now I have mostly discussed,
adapting diecast cars and trucks for Gn15 use. 

For many years I built hundreds of plastic car and truck models, too. 
Here is one that has been sitting on the shelf for a long time. 

Old hands and eyes make these difficult for me now,
so I am sticking with the diecasts.

What further dissuades my building this is that,
although I wanted the roadster, the parts are for a Ford Touring.

Box and directions are for the roadster,
the parts are for a four door touring. 

The kit sits on the shelf.  

Regards, Dave L.  :bang:





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Today I was contrasting the Yorkshire Co.'s variations of their Ford TT. 

Two castings of the cab roof, one short and one longer, are evident. 
Two bed variations are used, as well. 

This gives one many possibilities for customizing these models. 

Regards, Dave L.  :thumb:  





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Hi Dave


Some folks into Gn15 like the modern period.


I saw you had some 1:24 vehicle catalogues.

Which I noticed a couple of 'stock cars' in.


Do you know if it is possible to get in 1:24,

'40s '50s '60s Caddys, Chevys, Pickups, etc. ?


:cool:


Eddie


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Eddie

A quick look through the Fairfield catalog,
showed a lot of vehicles that fit your time periods and vehicle types.

I didn't see any Caddies though in 1:24 scale.  :sad:  

Their catalog is online,
so you can browse to see what they got. 

Regards, Dave L.


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Eddie

My friend who models the 1950s,
says there are Caddies in 1:24 out there. 

He saw some on Ebay. 

Regards, Dave L.


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I came across this old photo of an Ertl Model T truck and trailer. 

I didn't care for the candy apple red color and didn't keep it. 
It would have required more work and repainting than I was able to do. 

The model was a nice one, though. 

Regards, Dave L.   





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Hi David,

Do "nominal" large scale forklifts count ??



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Hey, if it has wheels it's a vehicle.
 
:2t: 

Regards, Dave L.


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Hi David,

Well the scale doesn't get much more "nominal",
than this Tamiya forklift, from their Educational Construction range.

You have to build both the controller and the forkie.
 

It is a "skid-steer" type mechanism,
with the front main wheels being powered forward/reverse on/off only.

The rear wheel has no steering and just pivots as required.
This is a "remote control" rather than a "radio-control" R/C model.


For size comparison, as built according to instructions, with a G-scale Preiser figure.





Some more photos.

I modified the control box,
took a tap off the batteries inside via a simple on/off switch fitted to the box,
and threaded in 2 extra wires into the wiring harness for lights.

A relatively simple plastic construction, glued to the very basic roll-over frame,
gave me a red flashing LED, and 2 high-power white LEDs facing forward.





Later this construction would receive 2 coats of black,
to stop the light from the LED flaring in the styrene.

Some more photos.





You really don't want to be down on the ground and see this coming at you.





The Tamiya forklift is able to raise reasonably heavy loads,
to the top level (at 190 mm or 7.5" height) of the rack in the background.

The pallet and 4 solid aluminium beer kegs weighed in at 140g or 5oz.
The forkie didn't even break a sweat moving this heavy a load. 

In action at the pallet rack.





You know you are lined up correctly with the rack,
when your headlight spots, pick up the vertical channels on the next level. 
 
Later the floor in front of the seat would be plated,
to hide the motors and gears behind the mast structure.

An "Earl" driver figure from the Dudez'n'Babez range at G Scale Equipment Ltd,
would be fitted to the seat, to operate a fabricated styrene driving panel,
with bent dressmaking pins for the operating levers.

The wheel was stolen from another different large scale forklift model,
that met an unfortunate end - but that's another story...

Simple stryrene entry steps were added to each side,
out to the width of the wheels.  


Like real large forklifts I've worked around, in a previous career in the steel industry,
this is not a "precision placement device".

But it can move heavy loads, lift to a good height,
and be a workable forklift on a simulated concrete surface.

I would not recommend it for use where grit can be picked up,
because the the Tamiya gearboxes are partially open underneath. 


Remember this is a "toy", but with a bit of tarting up,
it can be made into a useful operating accessory for Large Scale. 

    

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John

This is really cool stuff. 

Thanks so much for sharing! 

:Salute: 

Regards, Dave L.


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Hi all,

I dug the Tamiya forkie out and dusted it off for some photos today.

Here's the completed forkie and tethered controller.
The silver switch is for the red warning flasher and driving lights.
The controller takes 2 C-cell batteries.





What's under -

This is why this forkie is not suitable for a gritty work area,
note the exposed gears on the traction motor gearboxes.

There is also 3rd motor/gearbox above these,
that drives the up/down of the tines on the mast assembly.


 

The front section of the roll cage was removed,
to show Earl and the Tilt and Raise levers for controlling the mast.

These are just dressmakers pins bent to suitable positions,
then glued into the fabricated control panel.





Here's the view from the other side,
showing Earl, the control panel and the added mudguard/steps.





Just like real 1:1 scale large forklifts the forward visibility is very limited,
because of the amount of ironmongery in the way.





I spent more than a few years in heavy industry,
working around forklifts in a past career.

The Tamiya forkie probably comes in at about 20 to 30 ton lift capacity.
These are seriously LARGE lumps of moving machinery.
Here's my unofficial "safety rules" for working around these beasts:
  1. First rule of Safety - Keep out of their way. They have ABSOLUTE right-of-way.
  2. Second rule of Safety - NEVER assume that the driver has seen you.
  3. Third rule of Safety - ALWAYS have somewhere safe to retreat to if one comes your way unexpectedly. Beware of being caught in a "pinch situation" - find something very solid and immovable to "hide behind", never in front of.   
  4. Fourth rule of Safety - NEVER approach the driver unless you have been signalled in by the driver to approach the driving position. 
  Hey, they worked - I'm still walking around to tell the tale(s).

:glad:


oztrainz
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Hi all,

I told you about the Tamiya forkie,
so that I could tell you about 2 more forkies.

Both of these are closer to a "scale-looking" forklift,
of about 3 - 6 Ton lift capacity.

These 2 would become the "main use" forklifts,
on 'Randim Stackum & Wrackem' once it neared completion.

There's a whole lot more to come in that layout story,
so I'll stop here and focus on these two forklifts.


Both of these are analog radio-control.

One of them is relatively common and still available,
the other rare, I haven't seen one since I got mine in 2008 or so.

Side by side they look remarkably similar,
and both were advertised at a very nominal 1:20 scale.


So what am I talking about ??
Meet the forkies -





In my best "boxing announcer" voice" -

In the green corner, on the left,
we have the 3-speed "Mini Jack" forklift,
that can lift to 150 mm height as shown above.

This is the "rare" one.
It also has operational headlight lights on the rollcage.


In the red corner, on the right,
we have the single-speed "IndustryFork Car" forklift,
that can lift to 110 mm as shown above.

This forklift is the "more common" one,
available under different names like "Engineering Fork" or similar.


This second forklift is fine for working in more open spaces,
but the first 3-Speed "Mini Jack" wins by a "long reach",
when it comes to precision control in tight operating conditions.
(like those on the RS&W)

The following photo shows the results of a throttle "blip" -





The smaller distance indicated by the movement of the front "Mini Jack" unit,
shows just how much more precise this unit is with its lowest of the 3 speeds.
Both units are roughly equal if top speed is used on the "Mini Jack" unit

The packaging is quite different,
but the shape of both the forklift and the controller is almost identical.
This makes them hard to tell apart when buying a large scale forklift.





The "Mini Jack" packaging has a lift up flap.





Here's a closer look at the forkie that is still available,
showing the pallet and the fold-up packing crate load.





And that's probably more than anyone wanted to know about "operational" large scale forklift trucks.


David Laughery
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Wow !

I love this kind of stuff.

Thanks !

Regards, Dave L.


oztrainz
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Hi Dave, all


If anyone really wants to do something cool with the Tamiya forkie,

then try this:

https://youtu.be/bu-eC3ihZWY

or

https://youtu.be/DWDcn4aEDIE


This makes the Tamiya unit very suitable for some precision forkie driving.
This type of gear wasn't readily available when I built mine back in 2008 or so.


The clunk when the mast is on the way down is easily fixable.
It is caused by some burrs around a couple of tapped holes in the mast assembly.

A few swipes with a file and some powdered graphite,
rubbed into the sliding faces in the mast fixes that problem.


David Laughery
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My friend Jon sent a photo of his latest project,

a 1939 Chrysler. 

He works in 1:24, also. 

Regards, Dave L.   





David Laughery
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I've just added these two 1928 Chevy trucks to the collection. 

The Good Year truck will only need the wheels painted as the logo is appropriate for 1935. 
The Citgo logos on the pickup will need to be deleted as they are too new by twenty years. 

Both models are Liberty Classics. 

Regards, Dave L. 





David Laughery
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I found a good buy on 1914 Studebaker roadsters (tops down)
and pulled the two versions I have from the shelf,
while waiting for them to arrive. 

They are Liberty Classics models.   





David Laughery
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I noticed that the roadster has a spare tire on the back,
and the version with the top does not. 

That is curious. 
It is the roadster version that is in the mail. 

Regards, Dave L. 





David Laughery
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I would like to build a model of this establishment to display my Studie models. 

I'll add it to the list.  :shocked: 

Regards, Dave L.  





David Laughery
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You can see that not all Liberty Classics 1914 Studebaker roadsters,
have the spare on the rear.

The black version was a promotion for the Texas Company,

The other car I repainted,
it was a promotion for a prune company, as I remember. 

Regards, Dave L.  





David Laughery
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Liberty Classics also makes nice trucks, too. 

I replaced the bed of this pickup with a stake body. 

Regards, Dave L.  





David Laughery
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I took the 1928 Chevy pickup bed off tonight. 
It was attached with one little screw. 

I was curious to see how the oil drums were attached,
and expected them to lift off with the screw's removal.  





David Laughery
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Here is the underside of the bed. 
I see three screws.   





David Laughery
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Two screws hold the bed insert in,
and two more screws attach the oil drums to the insert. 

This would permit easy painting of the drums. 

The cab and chassis could be modified easily too,
if the bed were to be left off. 

This is a nice model by Liberty Classics. 

Regards, Dave L.  





David Laughery
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Today I removed the Citgo logos from the cab.

I'll probably keep the load of drums and just paint them. 

Regards, Dave L.    





David Laughery
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I painted the drums with a pewter color.

I see I need to touch up a few spots...





David Laughery
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And the Liberty Classics pickup is finished. 

Regards, Dave L.   





David Laughery
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One of the 1914 Studebaker roadsters came. 

It will be an easy job to remove the "Trust Worthy" from the door,
and have it ready for the layout. 

Regards, Dave L.   





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In a few seconds the lettering was removed,

and the salesman is trying to make the sale. 

Regards, Dave L. 





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Very nice models there David.

Fine details, really like the Stooddee.

........Peter




David Laughery
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Thanks, Peter. 

I had put working on diecasts away for a bit,

but now I am enjoying it again. 

Regards, Dave L.


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My son found this 1925 Kenworth at a yard sale...





David Laughery
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But when placed beside the 1:25 scale Studebaker truck,

it seems to be a might small, to be the same scale.  





David Laughery
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A front view of both trucks,

makes me think the Kenworth is a smaller scale,

maybe about 1:32
 




David Laughery
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The cab's smaller size confirms my suspicion,

the trucks are not the same scale.   




David Laughery
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A figure beside the 1925 Kenworth really shows its small size.  :sad:

I'll put it in the parts box. 

The bed load and wheels, may be useful on another project.  

Regards, Dave L. 





David Laughery
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Today's easy project,

was to remove the load and top from this Studebaker truck model.  





David Laughery
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The top proved to be a little more difficult to remove. 

The back of the top snapped into place,
but the front was glued to the windshield piece. 

I had to disassemble the truck,
and run an Exacto knife along the glued joint.

The top eventually snapped off nicely. 

The wheels will need to be painted.  

Regards, Dave L. 





David Laughery
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Since I have many Studebaker roadsters with their tops down,
and only one top up version,
I am going to install the truck's top on one of the roadsters. 

Regards, Dave L.  





Update: 

The top is too short, to reach from the seat back, to the frame,
so the roadster remains a top down version. 


2foot6
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You just have to LOVE the Studebaker.

Great vehicles, and these are nice models.

...........Peter





David Laughery
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Peter, thanks. 

My source for these models is eBay here in the States. 

I do wonder how available they are around the world,
especially since most companies that have these made are in the USA. 

Some of the sellers do ship worldwide,
but it is expensive.

Yeah, I do love these early Studebakers.  

Regards, Dave L.  





2foot6
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The problem in Australia is, the model may cost $30 - $50 AU,

but the postage will be $40-$70 AU,

that makes it an expensive model.


That would mean I couldn't eat for a week,

and that won't do.... haha.

:td: :bg:  :bg:

......Peter.


David Laughery
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Wouldn't you rather have a model car than eat ? 

:shocked: 

Regards, Dave L.


2foot6
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" Wouldn't you rather have a model car than eat ? "


No

:)

.......Pet
er



David Laughery
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My next project will be removing the promotions,

from this Liberty Classics 1928 Chevy pickup.   





David Laughery
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This truck has a load of crates,

that nicely covers the coin slot. 





David Laughery
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The promotions were removed,
but there was a ghost image left. 

It is unusual that the base paint was slightly softened,
leaving a dull area around where the logo was.   





David Laughery
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I'm going to give the truck a spray of Dullcoat,
to see if that helps. 

I removed the tires,
because I didn't know if they would be affected by the lacquer.  





David Laughery
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The Dullcoat helped, but it is still not a perfect job. 

Maybe some heavy weathering would complete the job. 
Not all projects end perfectly. 

:bang: 

The windshield is not frosted.
I have tape over the glass and it has not been removed yet. 

I painted the big crate a different brown for variety. 





2foot6
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David

I have been building a few Fords for a friend, at 1:48 scale.
(Birkshire Models)

He has the same type of theme for his layout as me,
old, worn out, rusty and too close soon.

This theme I love, as it was the way it was when I was growing up,
and it's relatively easy to create.

If a model is not perfect, it doesn't matter,
as it's been damaged during its working life, and paint is peeling off.


Attachment: DW T (3).jpg (Downloaded 94 times)

2foot6
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A  few more.


Not a good pic.

But good to see what can be done in any scale.


......Peter.


Attachment: IMG_1313.jpg (Downloaded 87 times)

David Laughery
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Since my layout would be set in 1935,
a 1928 truck would be seven years old,
and could easily show a lot of wear. 


Thanks for posting the photos. 

I understand non-Members, not 'Logged In' on Freerails,
are not able to see any of the 'Attached Images'. 

Too bad, your trucks are superb ! 


Regards, Dave L.


2foot6
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Thanks David

For some reason,
I find it easier to make a worn out looking vehicle,
than a new look vehicle.


Might be my life style these days WORN OUT.

Haha.
...............Peter  :old dude:


David Laughery
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Peter

I once spent a lot of time weathering some N-scale models,
until I was happy with the effect. 

I gave the engines and cars a coat of Dullcoat...
AND ALL THE WEATHERING DISAPPEARED !!


To this day, I've never tried again. 

Some day all these models will go to new owners,
and they can do the weathering. 

:wave: 

Regards, Dave L.  





2foot6
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I have used Dullcoat back in the eighties,
I wasn't too happy with the results.

So I do not use it now.

Just the weathering powders and solutions.
I'm happy with the results for the times I am modelling.


We all have our little favourite tools to do a job,
and that's great in this hobby.

So many different ideas and interests.


.......Peter

:2t:  :2t:


David Laughery
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Peter

My vehicles are a spin-off of Gn15 modeling.
I never intended it to be the major interest it has become.

Gn15 was a spin-off of my Large Scale trolleys.
This hobby has so many facets to lead one astray.

I have to be careful not to permit 1:24 airplanes,
and steamboats to grab hold.

Regards, Dave L.


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Peter

Like the weathering work on the trucks.


Have a few I need to get weathered,

also some construction models.


2foot6
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My main interest is railway modelling,
not modelling vehicles.

But I have to say I enjoyed building these vehicles,
and the best part is the weathering.

Changing a shiny, glossy, toyish model,
into something believable.

Used grotty models are what I really enjoy.
I can make a nice model and be happy with it.

If I make a big mistake, so what,
just wash it, and start again.

Well it's almost foolproof.

;) 

Arh...
The fun of this part of the hobby has grown on me.
 
But I have three more trucks to build,
and that will be the end of it.

Back to trains....  Haha. 

:old dude:

........Peter.


David Laughery
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I'm getting ready to revisit this 1917 Studebaker project. 

I've ordered some paint for the wheels.





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The wheels really need painted.

Gold wheels are not authentic.  :shocked:




David Laughery
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I'll need to put a new floor in the bed. 

I've thought about a load of sand, or maybe coal,
instead of just a floor.  





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I'll post photos as the project progresses. 

Thanks for following along. 

Regards, Dave L.


2foot6
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Are these model plastic or diecast ?

..........Peter.







David Laughery
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Peter

They are diecast, the bodies are metal,
and the wheels and interior, grill and headlights are plastic. 

The wheels have rubber tires. 

I really like the Liberty Classics models,
because they are assembled with small screws. 

Here is one in its parts.





David Laughery
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I've always painted wheels with spray cans of paint,
but now I am trying a new way. 

So I can do it at my desk instead of out on the deck,
I ordered a small can of Acrylic semi-gloss black. 

Of course they put a sticker over the color and type of paint,
but I was able to verify it is what I ordered.

I plan to dip the wheel in the can and brush off any excess paint,
let it dry, and then repeat the process on the other end of the axle. 

The wheels in the photo were done months before using the rattle can. 
We'll see how this goes. 

Regards, Dave L.   





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Dave

Perhaps this item:

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/50ML-Mini-USB-Charge-Airbrush-Air-Compressor-Spray-For-Painting-Paint-Nail-Art-/233838953824

may help working in a small area.


David Laughery
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Steve

Thanks for this.
I've never seen these.

I'll look to see if Amazon or eBay has them here.


P.S. Amazon has similar mini air brushes,
that would be great for model work. 

They are hand held, and charge through USB port.

Neat !  :Salute:  Thanks for the tip.

Regards Dave L.


David Laughery
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Today I am trying the new way to paint wheels. 


The wheels were removed with two screws,

and the tires taken off...





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I am going to dip the wheels into the can of paint,

and remove excess with the brush.





David Laughery
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This did not work. 

The acrylic paint was too thick,
and when I brushed off the gobs of paint,
I finally had to wash the paint off the wheel. 

I guess I have to go back to spraying wheels.  

Regards, Dave L.   





David Laughery
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As it turns out Liberty Classics uses the same casting,

for the beds of their 1928 Chevy pickup and 1917 Studebaker truck.





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This permits easy swapping of loads,
such as these half dozen oil drums,
from one truck to another. 

Regards, Dave L.  





David Laughery
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The Studebaker truck is done. 

I used the drum load from the 1928 Chevy, and solved the wheel dilemma,
by simply using a spare set I had on hand, that were factory painted. 

The diecast companies (Ertl and Liberty Classics),
make the interchange of parts pretty simple. 

Thanks for following along on this project. 

Regards, Dave L.   





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That vehicle is looking great.

:2t:  :2t:  :2t:

............Peter




David Laughery
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Peter, thanks. 

I wish there was a way to see what,

your weathering skill would do to one of these.

  L: 

Regards, Dave L.


2foot6
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David

I think weathering would make it a work vehicle, used and low value,
but what you have is a Show Room, high value vehicle,
almost a shame to weather it.

With the weathering materials I use, they are easily washed off,
so if it doesn't look good, just wash it and start again.

I'm sure you could give weathering a try,
you will be amazed at the results.

.......Peter


David Laughery
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Peter

Why don't you do a weathering project,
here in this thread ? 

Show us how to do it. 
I know I would find it to be very interesting.

Regards, Dave L.


2foot6
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Hmmm

I will have to think about that one.

:w::w: :old dude:

.....Peter.


David Laughery
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I really like the crate and drum loads,

Liberty Classics uses in their 1928 Chevy pickups. 


I wouldn't mind having a few more to use in other trucks. 

Regards, Dave L. 





2foot6
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David

The drums are easily made from aluminium baking trays.

I have made 140 drums, and are of very low cost.










David Laughery
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Looks like we need a quick tutorial here,

on how to make these.


They look great ! 


Regards, Dave L. 


2foot6
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David

You win.

I will take a few pics. making more drums,
and write a HOW TO story with them.

If all goes well I will post during the weekend.

.....Peter

:w::w::w: :bg:


David Laughery
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Yaaa !  :rah:


Regards, Dave L.


2foot6
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:wave:

David

Have a look in the 'Scratchbuilding & Kitbashing' Forum.

44 Gallon Drums - Made For My Layout

There is a drum making Topic there just for you.

..........Peter.  :old dude:

:2t:

David Laughery
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Thanks, Peter. 

It is a neat way to make the drums. 

I'm sure the process would also work in Large Scale,
1:24 in my case.

Thanks for starting the Thread.  :thumb: 

Regards, Dave L.


David Laughery
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My next project is this Liberty Classics Studebaker tank truck. 

I will try to remove lettering and keep the gold striping. 

Different wheels and a painted top is all I plan to do to complete it. 

Regards, Dave L. 





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Tonight I started work on the project. 

The top has the first coat and the wheels are exchanged with another set.  

Regards, Dave L.  





David Laughery
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I did not care for the gray top....





David Laughery
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... and decided to try a tan top, instead.   





David Laughery
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I am happier with the tan top,
and I can put it all back together.
 
The truck is back together. 

It arrived without a gear shift lever,
so I'll need to fashion one to finish the project. 

Thanks for following along. 

Regards, Dave L.  





David Laughery
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I have a new 1916 Studebaker panel van,

and I am trying to decide what to do with it.





David Laughery
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I've done a lot of variations on trucks.
 
But the panel van does not offer much possibility,
other than removing the promotions and painting the wheels. 

The body is in two parts, a top, and a bottom. 

I could make it an open bed truck. 
I'll think on it. 

:Crazy: 

Regards, Dave L.  





David Laughery
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In the meantime I have a 1916 Studebaker chassis, already black,
that could be a basis for a project I've been thinking about for a long time. 

The basic body would be easy to do, but all the "detail" will be difficult. 
I've been on the lookout for a long time for such material. 

I am going to look seriously at wedding cake decorations. 
If anyone else has suggestions I would like to hear them. 

Regards, Dave L.   





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Hi Dave

You may want to look at dollhouse parts:

https://www.thelittledollhousecompany.com/components-c-13_175/

Regards, Jose.



David Laughery
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Thanks for the link, Jose.   

I took a look and there are some possible parts I could use. 

Regards, Dave L. 

:Salute:


David Laughery
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Until I can gather what I need for all my possible projects,
I continue to enjoy the cars and trucks in my collection,
such as these Studebaker roadsters. 

I thought I only had one roadster with the top up,
but I have two. 

Regards, Dave L.  





David Laughery
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Ertl's Maxwells are really nice models. 

Since the Texaco promotions are actually correct for this car,
I've kept them on one of my models. 





Another project on the list is this Ertl Ford. 

I am deciding what to put behind the seat. 
A pickup bed or a flat bed are possibilities.





Regards Dave L.


David Laughery
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I was able to put before and after versions of promotional banks side by side,

to show the possibilities for making convincing vehicles for large scale layouts. 

Regards, Dave L.  










David Laughery
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I'm thinking about a new project,
with one of my Liberty Classics 1928 Chevy pickups. 

I've removed the promotions and the drum load.  





David Laughery
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I looked at vintage truck photos to help decide what to do. 

I like the photo with the stake bed,
and think that is what I will try.   





David Laughery
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I removed the bed,
and have a nice chassis to work with for this project. 

Regards, Dave L










David Laughery
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I started work on the stake bed for the '28 Chevy. 

Regards, Dave L.  





David Laughery
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Work on the bed continues. 

Regards, Dave L. 





David Laughery
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The basic bed is ready for stakes. 

Regards, Dave L.  





David Laughery
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My friend Jon just sent this photo of his finished 1948 Chrysler. 

This started out as a convertible. 

Nice work.  :thumb: 

Regards, Dave L.  





David Laughery
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Here is Jon's diorama, under construction,
where he displays his vehicle projects.

Besides vehicles,
Jon is a superb building modeler. 

:2t: 

Regards, Dave L.  





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The beginnings of a great scene.

:2t:







Nice Guy Eddie
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One of my favorites so far.

Probably souped under the hood, for the prohibition hooch run !


Just some olive-oil officer.

Yeah right !


:cool:

Eddie





David Laughery
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Nope. 

Just castor oil, officer...  :cool: 

Regards, Dave L



David Laughery
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My friend Jon sent photos of his latest project,

a 1938 Oldsmobile. 


Regards, Dave L.










David Laughery
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After puting it aside for a bit,
I am back to working on the 1928 Chevy stake bed project.

I was not happy with the fit over the rear fenders,
so I got out the heavy machinery and did a little trimming. 

Regards, Dave L.  





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Stake bed is progressing. 

Dave L.  















David Laughery
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The project is finished. 

I'll paint it black to match the fenders. 

Thinking about a livestock load for the bed. 

Regards, Dave L.  










David Laughery
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The 1928 Chevy project is completed. 

I really like this model by Liberty Classics. 

Thanks for following along. 

Regards, Dave L.  





David Laughery
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The Liberty Classics trucks are a great source for adaptation,
to very credible scale models for our large scale applications. 

The 1928 Chevy and the Studebaker,
are especially good starting points. 

Regards, Dave L.










David Laughery
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Gearbox makes (made ?)
these nice 1920s Wayne pumps in 1:25 scale. 

These are Shell and Gulf brands. 
They would fit on any period layout.

I have not seen them for sale recently,
and they would be hard to find, I suspect. 

Grab 'em if you find 'em. 

Regards, Dave L.  





David Laughery
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I've had this Liberty Classics Studebaker van sitting around.

This is the van that the body is in two parts,
an upper and a lower piece. 

This is the van without the top part. 

Since there is not too much I could do with it,
I thought I would simply put a top on it.  





David Laughery
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I think a light brown color will look good...


David Laughery
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I applied the thick paint with a Q-tip,

thinking it will give some texture to the smooth top...





David Laughery
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I am pretty happy with the result. 

I'll finish by gluing on the top with Aleene's Tacky Glue. 

Thanks for following along. 

Regards, Dave L.  










David Laughery
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Without realizing it,

I have a new "Hobby Within A Hobby". 

:doh:

Regards, Dave L. 


P.S.  A quick check on eBay shows a lot of pumps for sale. 

Type in "1:25 1920s gas pump."





David Laughery
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My last two projects posing for a builder's photo. 

Regards, Dave L. 





David Laughery
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I really like the Liberty Classics 1922 Studebaker pickup,
and the 1928 Chevy pickup and van. 

These models are fun to adapt and change,
as they use the same castings for the fenders and pickup beds,
wheel axles and the loads are interchangeable.   





David Laughery
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The 1922 Studie has a different wheel than the Chevy's,

and I thought I would exchange them to see what they would look like. 










David Laughery
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Three screws will let you remove the wheels and axles,

two on the front, and the single screw for the rear axle.





David Laughery
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Here the wheels are swapped. 

I like the effect,
but I wish the Studebaker's tires were a little bigger. 

I did try to exchange the tires, too,
but the wheels are a different diameter. 

Regards, Dave L.  





David Laughery
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My friend Jon sent photos of his 1938 Oldsmobile. 

It started as a Presidential limousine convertible. 

He modified the length and added the top. 

Nicely done, Jon ! 

Regards, Dave L.   







 

corv8
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David Laughery wrote: 
It started as a Presidential limousine convertible. 

He modified the length and added the top. 


Until now, I only knew guys who cut the roof from coupes, or even sedans,

and sold those contraptions to unsuspecting people as convertibles... 


Anyway, this one is well done.


David Laughery
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Thanks, Gerold.

I'll pass your compliment on to Jon.

He amazes me with the projects he undertakes.

Regards, Dave L


David Laughery
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Ertl's 1927 Graham Brothers truck is a nice model. 

It is made of three major castings:
The body, the fenders, and a separate chassis.   





David Laughery
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A plastic interior sits on the fender casting which sits on the chassis. 










David Laughery
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I put a set of spoke wheels on the chassis,
and am thinking of putting the cab of the '28 Chevy on the frame. 

I don't want to sacrifice the nice Chevy pickup for a project,
so I'll wait until I get another cab. 

Thanks for following along. 

Regards, Dave L.   





corv8
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I like the sturdy look of the six spoke wheels.



David Laughery
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Gerold

I like that look, too. 

I have another cab coming,
and will try a quick check on the fit of the cab and chassis.

The Citgo '28 Chevys seem to be plentiful on eBay right now. 

Regards, Dave L.   





David Laughery
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It is too bad that I can't get to the workshop. 

I would slice off the back of the 1927 Graham Brothers truck,
to make a chassis and cab for a dump truck. 

Should the '28 Chevy cab fit on the Graham Brothers fender and chassis,
I may try a dump body. 

Regards, Dave L.  





David Laughery
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I continue to be impressed by the possibilities that these Liberty Classics '28 Chevys
and early Studebakers provide for modification and adaptation into nice models. 

I hope some of you are looking at the many diecast models out there. 
There are models for all eras available. 

Regards, Dave L.  







 

David Laughery
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Some projects can be as simple as changing wheels...





David Laughery
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Other projects can be more involved. 

The car on the left started as a model similar to the right one. 
The body was in two parts, top and bottom, and the top was left off. 

Painting wheels is usually required,
and a spare top from yet another model finished the project. 

Since the models are put together with screws,
they come apart easily with just a small screw driver. 
No cutting or drilling of metal is required. 

Regards, Dave L.  


 

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As I suspected, the cab from the Liberty Classics '28 Chevy,
nicely sits on the Ertl 1927 Graham Brothers truck's fenders and frame. 

It'll be the basis for a larger truck rather than a smaller pickup. 
I'll have to keep the Chevy interior and fashion a completely new bed. 

Regards, Dave L.  










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It looks like the original position of the screws attaching the cabs will match.
I'll just need a longer screw to have a mechanical attachment instead of a glued joint.

The headlight holes on the frame will be a close fit for the headlight piece, as well.

Regards, Dave L.   










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The proportions of this cab and frame combination,
are pretty close to the 1928 Chevy commercial truck. 

I am starting to think about what to put behind the cab. 
I really like this one. 

Regards, Dave L.   





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The Chevrolet brochure shows full fenders over the wheels.

The ice truck does not have them. 

Regards, Dave L.   





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Another possible bed for the 1928 Chevy. 

It would look great with an unusual load. 

Regards, Dave L.  





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My friend Jon sent a photo of his latest, a '51 Buick. 

Regards, Dave L. 





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This is where I am at with the '28 Chevy Commercial project. 

The cab holes did not work out,
so I'll have to rely on epoxy joints for final assembly. 

Next steps will be to decide on which bed I'll scratchbuild,
and then to final painting after that. 

Thanks for following along. 

Regards, Dave L.   





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Today I started working on the bed for the Chevy Commercial. 

Going through the scrap box I found some N-scale bridge girders,
and thought they would work as bed sides on the truck. 

I glued two back to back at first,
but then decided to use just one girder for the side. 

I'll let the glue dry overnight before starting the ends. 
I'll need to split one of the two girder sides I'd made. 

Regards, Dave L.  





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The sides are glued to the bed and test fitted on the truck. 

Regards, Dave L.  





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Well, that did not turn out. 
When I removed the bed from the truck it all fell apart. 

As I think about it I think the original bed piece is not styrene,
but maybe ABS or plastic that does glue well with the Testers cement. 

I'll make a new bottom piece,
and go with the bridge girders for the sides. 

Regards, Dave L.  





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Before I went to the trouble of making a new bottom piece,
I flipped the bottom piece over and tried to glue the sides again. 

With more contact area it seems to be working. 
I'll keep you posted. 

Regards, Dave L.  










David Laughery
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Here's an old project from years ago. 

It was my first transformation of a diecast model. 

Regards, Dave L.  










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My friend Jon sent the latest photo
of his dharma he uses to display his vehicles. 

He is working on the yellow building on the right,
it'll be a sign painting business. 

Regards, Dave L. 





David Laughery
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My 1928 Chevy truck project is progressing. 

The Testor's plastic glue did work to attach the bed sides to the floor
after turning it upside down. 

I guess it was an issue of contact area, after all. 

Painting is the next step.
 
I plan to do the fenders in black and then primer on the cab and bed,
until I decide on a final color. 

Regards, Dave L.  





David Laughery
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A new vehicle arrived in the shop today. 
This 1927 Graham Brothers truck is a nice model. 

I've removed the True Value promotion,
and it will be put in storage until a project comes to mind. 

My total investment is $13
There are some good bargains on eBay. 

Regards, Dave L.  





David Laughery
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My friend Jon sent a photo of his diorama, 
and his next proposed project, a 1940 LaSalle. 

He's drawn it to scale and is posing the drawing 
next to previous projects to confirm that the size is correct.  

He is going to build the car from scratch.  

I'll post photos as he sends them.  

Regards, Dave L. 





David Laughery
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Prices continue to be very reasonable on Ebay right now,
for diecast models. 

This version, which I like because the top is a separate casting,
cost me a total expense of less than twelve dollars. 

There are bargains if you don't need things like,
the original box, key, or pristine condition. 

Regards, Dave L.  










David Laughery
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Here is a Studebaker truck that has its load removed,
promotions removed, and a simple wheel exchange. 

I've been thinking of making a solid C cab,
for one of these Liberty Classics trucks. 

Still thinking.  :Crazy:

Regards, Dave L.  





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I found a photo on the net,

that is exactly what I have in mind for this truck. 

Regards, Dave L.  





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Tonight I worked on disassembling the Studebaker. 

The bed comes off with one screw,
but the canvas top is more difficult to remove.
 
It is glued to the windscreen top,
and then snaps into the body with three little tabs. 

I ran an Exacto blade along the top at the windscreen,
and gently snapped it off (holding my breath). 

I've been lucky every time I do this.  :shocked:

Regards, Dave L.















corv8
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The prototype without rear fenders has a very "empty" "open" look.

Wonder how it was to drive it in the rain ?
 

Your model seems to be a good starting point.


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Early truckers must have been a hardy bunch,
driving in the rain, summer heat, and winter snow and cold. 

They drove without power steering in the early days, too.

One of my favorite old films is "They Drive By Night." 
It shows a lot of old trucks.

Regards, Dave L.   





corv8
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David Laughery wrote:
Early truckers must have been a hardy bunch,
driving in the rain, summer heat, and winter snow and cold. 

They drove without power steering in the early days, too.


I remember this time...

Had a "conventional" ("Snoot") truck in the late seventies,
it was loud, hot in summer and cold in winter,
had stiff springs, bad brakes,
and an 260 hp engine, when others already had 400+

But I had a 16 speed transmission and power steering.

HA !


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You ever drive a team of horses ?


Pulling a wagon is ten times harder than driving even an old truck.

Trust a rancher that does both for a living.


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The fenders are black and the cab and bed are primed,
but I like the grey on the 1928 Chevy Commercial. 
I may keep it as the color. 

The C cab project sits behind. 

Regards, Dave L.  





corv8
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Dave, why not ?

Have done this several times with interurban roofs...
Had also primered them with light gray.

A gray roof is fine for many cars,
so why add another coat.


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Thanks, Gerold. 

If I keep the primer color,
I would give it a spray of Gloss coat,
to match the shiny fenders. 

I am still deciding. 

Regards, Dave L.


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Today I finished the 1928 Chevy Commercial. 

I decided to keep the primer as the final color,
and gave it a coat of Gloss Coat,
to give enough shine to match the semi-gloss of the fenders.

Since I didn't have a mechanical attachment for the cab and bed,
I used a lot of Aileen's Tacky Glue inside the cab and under the bed,
to hold it all together. 

I'll wait a week to see how well it holds.

Thanks for following along. 
This has been a fun project. 

Regards, Dave L.  





corv8
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Looks good,
colors fit together nicely.

Would you dare to add a separate door handle ?

You might drill only a small hole in the bulge,
and add a handle made from brass rod,
bent and filed to shape.


David Laughery
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I do think I will paint the handles silver,
and the hood latches, too. 

Drilling a small hole would be very hard for me,
but it would look great with a handle as you describe. 

Thanks for the suggestion, Gerold.

:Salute:

Regards, Dave L.


corv8
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David Laughery wrote:
I do think I will paint the handles silver,
and the hood latches, too.

Drilling a small hole would be very hard for me


Ok... got it.

It's no longer so easy for me as it was ten years ago.

All those Walthers cars that came without grab irons and holes,
enjoyed to do this THEN.


David Laughery
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Failing eyes and shaky hands,

make a lot of things more difficult these days.

:shocked:

Regards, Dave L.


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My friend Jon sent photos of his latest project. 

Regards, Dave L.  










corv8
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David Laughery wrote:
My friend Jon sent photos of his latest project

 
He seems to do things the old fashioned way,

to avoid saying the hard way.


David Laughery
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Gerold

The amazing thing is that his models look great when finished. 

I didn't post his photo of the starting of this model, and will in this post,
so all can see how far he has come with this model. 

Regards, Dave L.





Nice Guy Eddie
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This dude is the guy that made the kit moulds before CNC

Now it's all LASERs, computers, algorithms & CAD


Used to be called Pattern Makers

Perhaps they still are !


Stunning method & process

VERY old skool !


Lump to Limo !


:old dude:


Eddie


David Laughery
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I've been showing my diecast vehicle projects for quite a while.

Their use for large scale layouts and especially their use
on outdoor layouts is such a positive thing.

For many years I had planned a 1:24 trolley layout,
and built plastic models for that intended layout. 

My son brought up a box of my plastic models,
and I thought I'd share a few with you. 

This one I dated 1997,
so I've been building models for a lot of years. 

The watermelons are painted green jelly beans. 

Regards, Dave L.  




















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This arrived recently.
 
It is an Ertl Ford van.
It was in rough shape with tires melted and nicks on the edges.

How the tires ended up in that condition I cannot even imagine. 
I had a spare set of tires that replaced the damaged ones.
 
A bottle of BIC Wite-Out with its little sponge applicator,
easily touched up the nicks on the edges. 

Total investment was less than eight bucks. 

Regards, Dave L.  





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On my 1935 era trolley layout that never got built,

the Police were still using their old Ford Model A.  

Regards, Dave L.  















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A little Ford van for the trolley layout. 

Regards, Dave L.  










David Laughery
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A tank truck for the trolley layout.

There was going to be an airport scene at the end of the layout,
and I needed a tanker for aviation fuel. 

Regards, Dave L.  










corv8
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Hmmm...

You have a never ending supply of ancient trucks....?



David Laughery
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Gerold

I have been building them for about forty years. 

As I unpacked the box my son brought up from downstairs,
I couldn't remember making some of these.

:shocked:

I think there are about six boxes of built models still down there. 

Regards, Dave L.


corv8
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Dave, very good.

Hope you enjoy your treasures from yesterday !


I sometimes pick a loco I built twentyfive years ago
from a display cabinet and give her an update.

DCC, LEDs, some details that weren't available then,
but leave them otherwise as I did them as they are.

If the paint job or lettering is incorrect,
as I didn't know better then, that's ok,
and a piece of my own memory.


David Laughery
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Here is a generic little truck,
based on no known prototype I can find. 

This one I don't recall making thirty years ago. 

Regards, Dave L. 










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Friend Jon's 1940 LaSalle is progressing. 

Regards, Dave L.





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Another model from long ago.

Regards, Dave L.  





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There was going to be a roadside produce stand on the trolley layout,
with a vender filling his truck with produce there,
before hitting the road on a sales route. 

Regards, Dave L.  















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A flat bed Ford for the trolley layout. 

The actual wood planks in the bed have warped while in storage.

:us:

Regards, Dave L.  





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Dave

I may have missed something ....

Let us know more about the trolley layout !


Does it still exist ?

Do you have pictures ?


David Laughery
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Gerold

For many years I planned to build a half inch scale trolley layout, 
and run off overhead wire.  

I've built several trolleys, collected figures, 
and built numerous car and truck models over the years, 
for when I actually started the layout. 

I even had a finished room downstairs to house it. 

Before I got to starting it I got hooked on the Gn15, 
and then health issues all got in the way. 

So, there is no trolley layout.   

:sad: 

Here are some of my trolleys. 

Regards, Dave L.  
















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The mentioning of my someday trolley layout, 
came up in my thread on collecting trolley postcards. 

It is yet another hobby within a hobby for me. 

Regards, Dave L.




corv8
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Dave

These are nice shots of Connecticut Company cars. 

An interesting operation.


David Laughery
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Today I took another look at an Ertl Ford Model T 
that was sitting on the shelf. 

I removed the top and clunky box on the back. 
The tires went to the Heinz pickle truck, 
and now I am deciding a project for it. 

It could be the basis for a little fire truck. 
I'll think on it. 

The lettering is a sticker and will be hard to remove. 

Regards, Dave L.  




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The pickle truck with the new tires. 
I sure wish there was a source of tires for the Ertl vehicles. 

This model was in pretty bad shape. 
Tires and paint touch up were needed. 

One of the headlights was missing, 
so I removed the good light. 

Since headlights were not the law before October 27, 1917 
(Massachusetts passed the first law) and this is a 1913 Ford van, 
I'll just say the owner didn't need them. 

:shocked: 

Regards, Dave L  




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My friend Jon is taking a break from his LaSalle project,
to work on this unusual vehicle.

He added a resin Jeep cab to something.

:Crazy:

Regards, Dave L.  










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Work on my Studebaker C cab is progressing slowly.

I'm not totally happy with the shape o the cab side yet.

Thanks for looking. 

Regards, Dave L.  





corv8
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David Laughery wrote:
My friend Jon is taking a break from his LaSalle project,
to work on this unusual vehicle.

He added a resin Jeep cab to something.


Apparently the rear clip of a late fifties Chrysler product,

De Soto or something similar.


What puzzles me are the four taillights,

most of those cars had six of them.


David Laughery
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Health issues are now making it difficult to work on projects,
and sharing my work here on the Forum.

It's been a lot of fun cutting, chopping, and painting my diecast models,
and I hope to be able to do some more eventually.

I snapped some shots of my favorite truck and auto projects today.

Regards, Dave L. 









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Dave

When did you do those ?


David Laughery
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Hi Gerold

I've been posting for three years here on Freerails in my Threads,
on my 'Fish Head Glue Layout', 'What Is Gn15 ?', and this Thread.

I've described these models over that time in these Threads,
although the trucks have been a more recent area of interest.

Regards, Dave L.


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Here is an interesting comparison of early gas pumps.

Regards. Dave L.





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My friend Jon sent photos of his Jeep project.

He is having a problem with making a windshield,
and may have to vacu-form one.

Regards, Dave L. 










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The very first thing I do on a diecast model,
is darken the radiator with a black marker.

I use one with a pointed tip.

Regards, Dave L.  





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I admit that I am partial to Ertl's Ford Model T models.

:thumb:

Regards, Dave L.  





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Dave

This thing strongly remembers me of my Corvair Rampside.

(1:1 scale)


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Gerold

Those were pretty scarce here in the States.

But you are right, they do look similar.

Regards, Dave L.





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Ertl's Maxwell model is nicely done,
and results in a good model for the layout once painted.

Regards, Dave L.  










corv8
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I choose to paint the stripe yellow,
as I felt white looks cheap...





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As I remember, servicing these

was an exercise in unnatural body position.

:us:

Regards, Dave L.


David Laughery
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A hobby, within a hobby, within a hobby, is collecting gas pumps.

I always intended to model a 1930s service station using these 1930 pumps.

Regards, Dave L.  





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The Shell driver is nowhere in sight due to his extreme embarrassment
that he ran out of gas at the Red Crown pumps.

:f:

Regards, Dave L.  





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Liberty Classics's little Studebaker comes in two versions,
top up or down.

Regards, Dave L.    





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Examples of early plates can be found in books and on the net.

Since many early plates were the same size as today's plates (12'x6")
they scale out to a half inch wide in 1:24 scale.

Here are some I found for my 1935 layout's cars and trucks.

Regards, Dave L.  





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Here is my first attempt at upgrading an Ertl Model T,
spurred on by Dave Laughery's photos & tips in this Thread.

I removed the signwriting with liquid glue, and took off the rear tank.





I happened to have a 2 plank body for a British outline Gn15 wagon lying around,
and it looks like it was made for the job !





Still need to glue it all together, paint the wheels,
and add a rear licence plate & lamp.

It's been fun so far.  :cool:





I have just acquired a 3D-printer,
and I'd printed off a couple of G-scale wooden crates for a flat car load.





They need scaling down a touch,
to make a nice load for the rear bed.

Ken


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I told Ken: 

"How many diecasts are too many ?" 

"One more than you have !" 


Ken is on his way to being a diecast basher.   

:rah: 

Regards, Dave L.

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Ken has found an interesting version of Ertl's 1913 Ford van.

Mine is the usual coin bank with the coin slot on top,
and the bottom trapdoor to empty the bank.

I hope he can share his version, he found "over there"

Regards, Dave L.  










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Here we go Dave.

No coin slot,

but instead has the dreaded rivets holding it together.










Ken


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Ken's model must be just for display,
or for play in the sandbox !

:bg:

I have put aside work on the C cab for the Studebaker truck. 
I reattached the bed and have it sitting on the shelf for now.

Maybe some day I'll finish it.

Regards, Dave L.   





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Because these models are put together with screws,
and there are many variations of color combinations,
it would be easy to switch bodies and fenders.

For example,
by swapping bodies on the fenders of these two trucks,
I could make an all red truck or an all black truck.

This is part of the fun of diecasts.

Regards, Dave L.  





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Today I was looking over the cars and trucks on the shelf,
and asked myself what was my favorite ?

After some thought,  I chose the little Studebaker roadster.

The green one was the very first diecast that I reworked,
and it started my collecting these models. 

I have quite a few in the collection,
but these two are special to me.

Regards, Dave  





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Latest acquisition = Gearbox 1929 Model A Postal Truck.

I don't think I can do anything to this except apply licence plates ?

























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Ken

Are you going to keep the US Mail logos ?

Are they stickers ?

Regards, Dave


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Dave

I think I'll leave it as is for now.

It looks OK to me as a Brit,
unless there are glaring errors ?

They are stickers so might just peel off
when I get round to repainting it.

I'll be on the lookout for ideas
from prototype photos in the meanwhile.

Regards, Ken


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Ken

My problem with this truck,
is that the "I Want You.." poster was for WWI,
and would not be on a 1929 vehicle.

I planned to repaint mine,
but never got to it.

Regards, Dave L.


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Off they come then Dave !



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Here you can see there is no poster on this truck,

although the U.S. Mail lettering is OK.

Regards, Dave L. 





English Creek
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Thanks for posting that Dave. 

Now that is a project
I wouldn't mind getting my teeth into !

:glad:


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Yeah, it needs a little work.

:Crazy:

Regards, Dave L.



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Here's the real one.

From what I've been able to find,
some one in the Antique Ford Club had
a '29 mail truck, and put the poster on it.

The toy companies must have used it
as a prototype for their models.

Note the wheels.

Regards, Dave L.  





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Thanks Dave.

The scuttle on the model is black,
as is the door slide cover & radiator,
and the rear fenders on the model are wrong.

Yes, it needs a bit of work to be correct.

Regards

Ken


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This appears to be the original,

although its listed as a 1930 model.





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Too bad we can't see the date on the license plate.

Can't figure why a 1918 poster would be on a truck in 1930
(and a color photograph instead of a black and white one, in that year)

I can not find a 1930s era photograph of a mail truck with the poster.

Trucks with the poster all seem to be restored versions,
and photos taken after restoration.

Regards, Dave L.

:Crazy:  :Crazy:


English Creek
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My best guess is that the same poster was used in WW2 as well.

The trucks were possibly used up till the early '50s,
and there are photos of postal trucks with signs on them in the '30s.

So it is feasible that wartime posters were on them post WW2.


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Ken

You are correct,
that the poster was reprinted for WWII use.

Regards, Dave L.


David Laughery
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I've put aside the Gn15 vehicles for a little while.

Waiting until the weather warms up,
and I can paint on the deck again.

I am looking forward to working on
the 1927 Graham Brothers dump truck.

Here's 1:25 and 1:87 posing side by side.

:shocked:

Regards, Dave L.  





David Laughery
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My dump truck project will start with this. 





David Laughery
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I will have to slice the body just behind the cab window.

I have a cut off blade for my ten inch chop saw.
My son will have to do it for me out on the deck.

I may have to do something with the fenders, too.  





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A crude mock-up of the dump truck.

Regards, Dave L.   





David Laughery
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This is what the project hopefully looks like when completed.

:2t:

Regards, Dave L.  





David Laughery
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My friend Jon sent photos of his latest project.

He started with a 1936 Dodge convertible diecast,
and added a top.

He says he has a little more work,
filling imperfections.

Thought you'd like to see it.

Regards, Dave L.  










David Laughery
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I haven't been working on vehicle projects as of late,
I am waiting for warm weather, and working out on the deck.

Here is a photo of one of my favorite models,
the 1928 Chevy pickup from Liberty Classics. 

I really like the black and orange color combination
on the CITGO promotional truck.

Regards, Dave L.  





David Laughery
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Here's a simple little job that only takes a few moments to do.

Add a large drop of Aleene's glue on the headlights, and wait a day.
Since it dries clear, there are now lenses on the headlights.

:)

Regards, Dave L.  





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Great idea for the headlights Dave,

thanks for sharing.

The holding method is equally inspired !

Ken


David Laughery
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Another way to vary the vehicles on the layout,
is a simple top removal.

Two different vehicles can be made from the same diecast,
although here I've used two different models to illustrate the point.

Regards, Dave L.   





David Laughery
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Up to now I've been mostly interested in Liberty Classics' early Studebaker cars and trucks,
and have made them the subjects of my projects that adapt die-casts for large scale layouts. 

I am now looking at their Ford Model A trucks.
First I'll need to see if the Testor's Cement will remove the promotions...





David Laughery
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What caught my attention especially,
was the well done spoke wheels on these models.





David Laughery
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Front end details are nicely done, too.

I'll need to darken the radiator with a black marker,
and add Aileen's Tacky Glue for headlight lenses.

Fenders are black, so they'll not need painting,
body color may need a different color, though.

Regards, Dave L.  





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This Heinz pickle truck was also added.
Neither truck was expensive. 

Both were less that $16 each,
including PA sales tax (6%) and shipping.

Regards, Dave L.  





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The model's body comes apart easily with two screws.  





David Laughery
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Testor's Plastic Cement removed the promotions,
except the black date.

The body will need to be further taken apart,
and the body shell painted.

Regards, Dave L.





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I was surprised to discover that the body is two castings,
that screw together with two screws.

This would make a two-tone paint job easier,
but I plan to do a single color.

Regards, Dave L.





David Laughery
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Ertl's 1923 delivery van is a nice model.

I bought this because there would not be a lot of promotions to remove.

I've darkened the grill with a marker,
and I will paint the fenders, top, and wheels black for an easy project.

Regards, Dave L.
 

P.S. - I did touch up the radiator where I missed a spot.










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I was happy with the N-scale bridge girders,
used for the bed of the 1928 Chevy Commercial,
and got to thinking I might try it with an Ertl Model T.

Regards, Dave L.  










David Laughery
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I had an unpainted bridge on hand and used it.

I removed the sides,
cut one into two equal lengths,
and glued to a .040" floor.

I've added an end to the cab end of the bed,
and now I'll let it dry over night.

Regards, Dave L.





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This was a simple project,

that now just needs painting and gluing in place.

Regards, Dave L.  





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A really nice 1930 Ford Model A roadster from Liberty Classics just arrived.

Nice detail includes a "stickered" trunk, dash gauges, painted spoke wheels,
and an opening rumble seat that hides the coin slot.

Promotions appear to be painted,
so they should be easily removed with Testor's Plastic Cement.

It is a nice addition to the collection.

Regards, Dave L.  

























David Laughery
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The promotions came off nicely,

in about five seconds with the Testor's Cement. 

This car is ready for the layout !

:thumb:

Regards, Dave L.  





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Motormax makes 1:24 Ford Model Ts,
in two versions of the Roadster, tops up and down.

I am not happy with the blue color.
These are stated as 1925 models.

I am trying to research Ford's colors for that year.

Starting in 1914 black was the only color,
but colors became available along the way.

If anyone has information I would like to hear.

Thanks, Regards, Dave L.  





David Laughery
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The Motormax Model T, on the left,

is about the same size as the Ertl model on the right.

The big difference is in the wheels.

Regards, Dave L.  





David Laughery
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Motormax also makes the T touring
in both top up and top down versions.

I don't have a top up version to show yet,
as they are a bit elusive, and expensive.

:sad:

Regards, Dave L.  





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I've refreshed my interest in the Model T
after adding the Motormax Ts to the collection.

I'm looking at my previous models and seeing if
a new project with an Ertl Model T comes to mind.

Regards, Dave L.  





David Laughery
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I have this Ertl Model T in the parts box and need
to find a set of tires for it before I start a project.

I have not found a source for tires, and I am reluctant
to sacrifice another model just for the tires.

Sometimes parts cars come up on eBay,
so I'll put off this one for now.

Regards, Dave L.  





David Laughery
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Ertl's 1923 Chevy is a nice model.
This one has the US Mail livery.

The graphics are well done, although being
two dimensional stickers detracts a bit, I think.

I do wish Ertl would locate the coin slot
on the rear and more out of sight. 

And while I'm wishing, they could put black wheels
on their models, instead of the chrome wheels.

:td:

Regards, Dave L.





David Laughery
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A bargain ($2 plus $7 shipping)
Ertl Model T with Trust Worthy promotions arrived.

I tried the Testor's Cement method,
to see if they were painted or stickers.

I was surprised that they were painted stickers.

I was also surprised the cement softened the sticker,
and I could carefully pull it from the door.

Regards, Dave L.
















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