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Cypress Hills
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I'm in possession of a few O-gauge box cars.

I want to remove the O-gauge trucks, and replace them with O-scale trucks.


Is there an easy way to go about removing the trucks,

without damaging the bottom of the rolling stock?


Murray


oztrainz
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Hi Murray

Some more information might help get you some better answers.

What brand of O-gauge boxcar are you starting with?
What brand of O-scale truck are you planning to put under them?

There is something I'm missing,
what is the difference between your definition of O-gauge versus O scale?
They should be both 1/48 scale??

Why the need to swap out the trucks?
If the boxcars were 3-rail with un-insulated wheels and axles,
and if
there is no difference in how far apart the rails are,
then surely all you have to do,
is swap out non-insulated wheels, for 2-rail insulated wheels?

Make yourself a foam cradle to support your O-scale boxcars.
This should support your boxcars upside-down while you work on them.

Let us know how you go.


Michael M
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If it's Lionel O-gauge,

some trucks can look clunky. 


And, they are a problem, being attached with a rivet,

which would have to be drilled out.


This might help: 

https://ogrforum.ogaugerr.com/topic/removing-replacing-trucks


Cypress Hills
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Thanks for responding to my post.
You can tell I'm a neophyte in O-scale 1:48

To me O-gauge is 3-rail & O-scale is 2-rail.


I prefer O-scale. 
It looks more realistic to me than 3-rail O-gauge.

I have a Lionel box car. I could remove the wheels,
and exchange them for more suitable wheels.
I'm using Code-100 track.


After removing the trucks, I still need to figure out,
how to mount Kadee O-scale couplers to a smaller truck.
Unless Kadee manufactures trucks with O-scale couplers ready to go.


I hope this clears up my not so well expressed thoughts.
I wrote my mail with the view someone already invented the wheel,
and could pass on their experiences.


Murray


Michael M
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I feel the same about O-gauge and O-scale.

Don't recall if Kadee makes Talgo trucks.

Could you body mount knuckle couplers ?


oztrainz
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Hi Murray

Not having used any of these,
please take what follows as possible avenues for investigation,
rather than a hard recommendation.

Kadee do O-scale couplings and body-mounts,
but do not do any O-scale standard-gauge bogies - see:
https://www.kadee.com/trucks-and-wheels-c-274_277/

However Atlas do make a range of Talgo-type bogies
(with coupling mounted on the bogie or truck)
however these appear to be fitted with 3-rail (conductive) wheels only.

A large amount of the styles appear to be out of stock at the moment. Go to:
https://shop.atlasrr.com/c-1433-o-scale-trucks-and-couplers.aspx

However the 3-rail Andrews truck, and 2-rail Andrews truck both appear to be in stock.
Swap the 2-rail wheels into the 3-rail frames and the 3-rail wheels into the 2-rail frames,
as either as a flat car load or as scenery items clear of the track.

A better more flexible option that could go under a wider range of box cars,
would have been the 2-rail 70-ton roller bearing or 50-ton Barber trucks,
fitted with their Adjust-a-coupler knuckle coupling.

This would have given you the ability to adjust for any mismatch in the distance,
from the bogie pivot to the end of the car, between Lionel and Atlas boxcars.
But these 2-rail bogies are out of stock currently.

With the Lionel rivets being cut away to get the Lionel bogies off,
you will need to use a new bolt and washers to secure the bogies to your box car.
This will be a measure-to-fit and might be available cheaper through a hardware store,
rather than using the dedicated "hobby" type bolts as supplied by Atlas/Lionel/etc.

I hope that this helps get your thinking started.


Si.
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Hi Murray  :wave:


I have had a similar situation ...

... with modding my 'Tri-ang' cars & their riveted-on trucks, with chunky wheels.





Si.
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As you can see, the  'Tri-ang' trucks are riveted-on ...

... they actually work really well & rotate very freely indeed.

Which of course makes them a TOTAL NIGHTMARE to drill-off.  :f:





Si.
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I've held the 'Tri-ang' boxcars & attempted to drill-off the rivets ...

... jamming an engineers-point in there, to stop the rivet rotating helps.

But the boxcars are INDESTRUCTIBLE, it's not so easy to hold the fragile Hopper-Cars.  L:





Si.
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My solution in the end, was not a 'pretty one' ...

... but it was very effective, if a tad time-consuming !  :time:

I simply got my most pointed & sharpest electrical side-cutters in there !





Si.
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Nibbling away at the pesky rivet, until destructo & truck is freed ...  :thumb:

... I could then mod. the trucks for other projects & fit new wheelsets.

I love the 'Tri-ang' diecast "Old Skool" trucks & you can do all sorts of things with them.





I hope that gives someone a few ideas ...  ???

... the main one being BITE THOSE RIVETS OFF !
Not with yer teeth ... sharp side-cutters !!  :old dude:


:java::moose: :dt:


Si.


Ken C
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Tried the nibbling trick with the rivets.


Find it a lot easier and faster, by jamming the truck and rivet solid,

then using a drill and suitable drill bit, drill out the rivet.


When the rivet lets go the truck will fall off,

and you also get a porthole for a ship model.


:glad:


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