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Mikel Parker
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So I found this kit for a good price (cause it is old, most likely)
and having always wanted to build it, decided to get right into it.

So I am going to try and do a decent building Thread,
and show how I am putting it together.


Opening with kit contents:


Attachment: RGS 02 1.jpeg (Downloaded 63 times)

Mikel Parker
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Pretty simple.

Basic piece of siding, very nice and thin (oh boy),
various strip wood, called out in scale inches/feet,
some in separate bags (decking and roof 2x6 for instance).

Plans, paper blade form/embossed paper for blade,
nice detail castings (tiny),
plastic windows, metal wheels for truck castings,
three different sizes of wire,
and decals sealed in plastic bag (hopefull sign for an old kit).


Mikel Parker
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So the first order of business, was to stain the wood.

So I went back and forth,
with what to use, and the look I was after.

And after finding some photos of the prototype,
and looking at various interpretations of models in different gauges,
I decided I wanted a pretty worn look,
and so I went back to an old solution (pun intended).

I had a jar of stain made for Sierra West's engine house 15-20 years ago
(ink and water, with several shades of Polly-S paint all combined)
and after checking it out (funky but not terrible)
soaked my wood in it over night (with agitation now and then).

I figured the flat piece of siding would be a problem, but all seemed good,
and I dried that under weighted glass.

You can see the effect I got, which was kinda cool I thought,
moldy and aged looking.


Attachment: RGS 02 2.jpeg (Downloaded 63 times)

Mikel Parker
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So I don't expect to run this much, I did want to make it functional,
so I tried to be pretty accurate with frame assembly.

So I assembled it over the template,
spot gluing with Elmers carpenter wood glue (always like that stuff).

Seems like pretty good idea, but almost better to measure off plan,
and assemble that way, but this worked ok.


Attachment: RGS 02 3.jpeg (Downloaded 62 times)

Mikel Parker
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Once basic lengths are added,
then side pieces need to be cut and added,
to make the frame.

This is how it looked after gluing.


Attachment: RGS 02 4.jpeg (Downloaded 59 times)

Mikel Parker
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This shows how the frame looks,
after getting the weight compartment done,
and beginning decking floor.

You can see how grunged up,
the funky stain made all the wood.

Angle cut on the main outside frame,
for plow frame.


Attachment: RGS 02 5.jpeg (Downloaded 58 times)

Mikel Parker
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So next I drilled, and added truss rods, from provided wire.

Kinda tricky to get angle and nut/bolt/washer castings in
(tiny town, and these aren't even the small ones).

Added small pieces of paper,
to represent washers between bolster supports,
and then added smaller NBW castings to areas required.


Attachment: RGS 02 6.jpeg (Downloaded 57 times)

Mikel Parker
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So this shows the little bastards in place...

Lost a few of those, as I was drilling and gluing them in,
then rusted up a few, and the spacer "washers".

Added bolsters for trucks
(trying hard to get them centered... geez).

Will blacken all this up as I get finished,
probably be rather mucked up.


Attachment: RGS 02 7.jpeg (Downloaded 57 times)

Mikel Parker
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More to follow as I get a chance.

Next step,
on to the flanger house, and interior framing.




Mikel Parker
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Howdy

The next step, is on to the flanger house,
so I cut out the sides, back and front, from the stained siding piece.

I traced the template onto tracing paper, and taped it on the siding,
cut out each section and windows, cautious not to move the paper.

Sometimes I use transfer paper, but I wanted to
cut these out from the face, to get cleaner cuts,
since window areas are exposed in several of the openings
(the way this kit has front windows set)
and the transfer paper is blue (like carbon paper only lighter).

Then door blanks are cut at this time,
though for some reason front skinny doors are tall (?)


Attachment: RGS 02 8.jpeg (Downloaded 29 times)

Mikel Parker
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Next step is interior framing,
and this was taped down with wax paper over it,
and built up, tacking back side with a little wood glue.

Side frame uprights need to be carefully trimmed,
for stake pockets, that go on frame, as per prototype.


Attachment: RGS 02 9.jpeg (Downloaded 41 times)

Mikel Parker
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While doing this I put together plow frame,
as is shown here.

They warn you to be very accurate,
with block cut in between frame lengths,
so I tried to be accurate with my knife,
and gluing this up.

One screw up on my part,
was using a different size beam material
than I think I was supposed to, 5x6"vs 6x6" ?

Could be expansion of block or beams too.
The danger of soaking materials in water based stain mix.

I was trying to cut from appropriate material,
but oddball short pieces in a separate bag was a bit confusing
(I think I was shorted some wood).

Anyway came up short on lengths for outside of frame later.
They were not generous with strip wood, and unclear at times,
on which piece was to be used... go figure.

I did precut lengths and angles on center beams,
from side views which are provided.


Attachment: RGS 02 9b.jpeg (Downloaded 40 times)

Mikel Parker
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Onto assembly with framing and door openings.
Once all was dry, I was onto paint.

I experimented with several effects,
and finally dry brushed white over stain lightly,
then added Burnt Sienna craft paint over it,
being artistic (ha!) with application to get well aged effect.

AI stain was also used on cut surfaces etc.

Next I painted the windows,
and added glazing from clear sheet provided... basic.

Could have messed up window paint (aged)
but seemed to be ok, and the D&RGW red
seemed a bit of a contrast, which I liked.


Attachment: RGS 02 10.jpeg (Downloaded 40 times)

Mikel Parker
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The cut outs in the corner of the last picture,
are the provided prototype decals,
and here's a close up.

Oh boy, old decals (not sure what to think).
They might have worked.

But I chose to go with Thin Film RGS set,
I had got awhile back, thinking they might disappear,
like so many products have.


Attachment: RGS 02 11.jpeg (Downloaded 39 times)

Mikel Parker
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Here's the final product,
after a bit of f*ckery... geez.

I love trying to get these on nicely,
and then getting them to disappear.

This shot shows weathered effect a bit better.
I am beginning to like the look overall.


Attachment: RGS 02 12.jpeg (Downloaded 37 times)

Mikel Parker
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I am going for the look of a car,
that is stored outside all year round,
at the side of the roundhouse or engine shed.

Maybe no longer used.

This shows the windows installed,
and ready to begin assembly.


Attachment: RGS 02 12b.jpeg (Downloaded 36 times)

Mikel Parker
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Here's the back and a side on,
with prototype fotos on the screen behind my desk top.

Yes it is also the dining table and office top,
but it's the only place with good natural light,
and the old Formica can take any cutting and beating,
because it has had a lot of that.

Front of house in the picture.


Attachment: RGS 02 14.jpeg (Downloaded 33 times)

Mikel Parker
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Here's a close up of the front glued together.

I decided to put this together first,
just to make assembly easier.

I did it over the template, so I could get angles right,
and keep the face square to the back and frame.

Really easy to get things off without care.
(shot is a bit dark sorry)


Attachment: RGS 02 13.jpeg (Downloaded 32 times)

Mikel Parker
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This shows completed flanger house in place.

You can see I pre drilled grab iron locations up the side,
way easier when the piece is flat on the bench.

So far so good.


Attachment: RGS 02 15.jpeg (Downloaded 29 times)

corv8
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Nice !

I follow your Thread with interest.

And yes, I know about those old brittle decals.



Ken C
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Mikel

Very informative build

and well worth going through your steps in the project.



Mikel Parker
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Thanks guys for following along.

I hadn't seen a building thread for this kit,
so thought this would be interesting.

It is an iconic bit of narrow gauge rolling stock,
and though I am not a purist when it comes to the modeling I do
(I'm making it up) I love the RGS and 3 foot railroads.

So my line is based on a fictional line in the Pacific NW,
that ended up with a bit of other lines 3 ft rolling stock,
so I can use Colorado, Sumpter Valley, SP and Yukon,
if I ever get that far.


Ok, onward...

Here's the plow frame attached to the body and frame,
careful cutting paid off, and things seem to be in the right places.


Attachment: RGS 02 16.jpeg (Downloaded 44 times)

Mikel Parker
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This is a shot from the other side,
with a bit of sanding done,
to set angle for outside frame pieces.

You can see the really decaying paint effect...


Attachment: RGS 02 17.jpeg (Downloaded 42 times)

Mikel Parker
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So now I glued in place the outside frame pieces,
and made and added door handles (bent wire provided)
and stake pocket castings.

Also a bent wire brace for outer piece.

Not really in the right place,
now that I go back to reference fotos... rats.


Attachment: RGS 02 18.jpeg (Downloaded 41 times)

Mikel Parker
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Another shot of the frame ready for blade assembly.
Kinda delicate at this point... they don't make this easy.

I guess I should stress this is a challenging build,
with little room for screwing it up (at least for me it's hard)
being this small, and given rather primitive things to fabricate etc.

Not that I'm complaining,
it's just in the age of 3D-printing and laser cut parts,
it seems to be a bit crude.

I do like real wood kits though,
and this is pretty great so far.


Attachment: RGS 02 19.jpeg (Downloaded 40 times)

Mikel Parker
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Ok, now on to the blade forms,
and these are stiff paper/cardstock,
and careful cutting (yikes) is necessary.

The bottom blade glued in place,
then formed blade pieces added.

I immediately messed this up,
and had to re-glue pieces as I got it to work.

Much cursing,
and assessment of my gluing experience,
versus instructions.

I'm not sure what would be easier, but I chose to glue
center curves together first with Walthers Goo,
thinking it would be hard to form
if edges were glued first as instructions said.

I don't know, that's how I did it, came out ok,
then discovered I should have saved embossed paper pieces
to glue on after blade formers were in place (oops).

I misread instructions,
thinking that the pointy part of blade should go over it.

I failed to realize you are supposed to notch it (oh boy)
and glue it on in such a way to cover inevitable gappage... bah.


Attachment: RGS 02 20.jpeg (Downloaded 38 times)

Mikel Parker
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Another view,
now on to cover pieces and some more bracing.

I think the prototype had a bolt on wooden frame piece,
to connect outside blade supports.

So going to see what might be added
that would make that work.


Attachment: RGS 02 21.jpeg (Downloaded 37 times)

Ken C
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Mikel

Got a chuckle of your railway concept.

Sounds similar to my railway,
based on the Kaslo & Slocan Railway in Southern British Columbia,
with connects to a number of Western Canadian 3 foot gauge lines.

And by a strange concept, a few South American Railways,
along with some Australian engines and rolling stock.

L:  :shocked:


corv8
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Mikel Parker wrote: 
I do like real wood kits though,
and this is pretty great so far.


Mikel

Building a car that had a wooden body from wood,
has a distinctive appeal,
even if it's somewhat crude by todays standards.


Helmut
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It depends on what wood you use,
there is some fine-grain material available.

On the other hand,
scaled-down grain is almost indistinctable
in the smaller scales from H0 down.


Mikel Parker
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Ken

I love the combination of trying to make things reality based,
in a completely made up scenario.

The fun for me in this hobby is creating our own little worlds,
and still basing them on real equipment,
and real limits of running a railroad...



Gerold and Helmut

I guess I mostly think it's more realistic,
when something is made of wood that it is wood.

I find plastic challenging to make look like that sometimes.
The fine detailing possibilities can be a real rabbit hole.

I am trying to keep "a high standard of standardness",
and still not get to lost in the weeds here.

Really fun making miniatures of real gear like this though,
even if it is being used in a made up reality.


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I jumped right in and remade a front piece,
trying my hand at embossing rivets... yikes !

Glued it in place and added side panels,
which seem a bit small... hmmm shrinkage ? (sorry...)

Like the decals,
phenomenon of an old kit perhaps ?

It's some kinda paper stuff,
and I was very careful cutting it out.

Oh well, paint next.


Attachment: RGS 02 22.jpeg (Downloaded 63 times)

Mikel Parker
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A coat of semi-glossy,
Badger Model Flex "weathered black" paint.

Then a coat of stove black acrylic.

Now some rust powder and chalk to age.


Attachment: RGS 02 23.jpeg (Downloaded 62 times)

Mikel Parker
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Here's a shot of the roof in progress,
and my little made up stove for inside.

Figured if there was a smoke stack,
there must have been a stove (??!!)

Couldn't really find any info. on that.

Maybe someone has seen the real thing,
and they can tell me ?

I think it's in Durango or Chama maybe.


I am doing things,
in a bit different order than instructions.


Attachment: RGS 02 24.jpeg (Downloaded 52 times)

Mikel Parker
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Here's another angle, and I can see
I need some more work on decals... argh.

But did a little rusting on blade,
and another set of braces.


Attachment: RGS 02 25.jpeg (Downloaded 51 times)

corv8
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Mikel Parker wrote: 
I am doing things,
in a bit different order than instructions.


Doing things according to instructions,
is only for amateurs.

A pro reads them only afterwards,
to check if they are correct.


2foot6
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:wave:

Can only agree with Gerold and Mikel.


But some of us don't even read the instructions,
for various reasons...

1.  Can't be bothered

2.  Lost them

3.  I know it all

4.  Dog ate them

5.  Like a recent purchase, they're in Japanese,
     and I don't read Japanese

L:  :sad:

............Peter


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I don't follow instructions.

Don't like to be told how to do things !

(turning to wife): Right dear ?

Jose.



Mikel Parker
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hahaha...

I know how many corners I have painted myself into,
by my clear understanding of instructions,
then blatantly ignoring them...

I swear it's mostly getting ahead of myself,
or wishing I added something (weight, lights details, etc.)
before I glued that together or down.

A lot of folks seem very at ease with tearing things apart,
but I so seldom make any progress (especially on my layout)
that I am reluctant to go back and rebuild unless forced too.

Dumb I know.

Oh yes, further digging led me to discover,
#02 was scrapped with RGS gear and trackage.

Derailed in 1951 and never restored to function.
Sad end to a interesting bit of narrow gauge like so much other.


Mikel Parker
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Here is the roof glued on,
looking nice and moldy and decaying.

You can see I begin rust on big blade,
and nuts and washers added.

On to tarpaper...


Attachment: RGS 02 26.jpeg (Downloaded 7 times)

Mikel Parker
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Now I haven't seen a good roof shot,
but liked the models I found that had a 'tar' roof.

So I had some thin coarse brown paper and cut 3' widths,
some brushed on diluted white glue,
and added center section as you can see.

It makes sense that it would have been well sealed at least.

I think the blade is looking pretty cool,
even if detailed embossed paper is a bit small.


Attachment: RGS 02 27.jpeg (Downloaded 36 times)

Mikel Parker
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After painting the paper with stove black acrylic paint,
I have placed roof walk supports and sanded them flat.


Attachment: RGS 02 28.jpeg (Downloaded 36 times)

Mikel Parker
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Here's the roof walk in place,
with little overhang supports in place.

Those are delicate and a pain to attach,
but the look is right.

The details bring this to life,
needs some rust and dust.


Attachment: RGS 02 29.jpeg (Downloaded 36 times)

Mikel Parker
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I was trying to figure out flanger blade casting position,
and decided to check how things would work with track,
which led to painting and assembling trucks and wheels.

They are pretty nifty with nice metal wheels.
Too bad they don't sell these separately,
nice little castings.

I also added brackets and shelf pieces for headlight casting,
more delicate parts, at least they changed these to metal.

Sorry photo is a bit dark.


Attachment: RGS 02 30.jpeg (Downloaded 34 times)

Mikel Parker
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One more shot of trucks,
and you can see mount for flanger blade,
which should come next.

They roll nicely and make me wish I had added weight
(duh) because this actually might be a decent runner.

I thought I was just going to set it
outside the engine house, or in a yard perhaps.

Got to dirty them up next.
Only had semi flat in the spray can,
and I don't have an airbrush set up... someday.


Attachment: RGS 02 31.jpeg (Downloaded 33 times)

Mikel Parker
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Ok, a shot of headlight bracket and mount,
and flanger blade mounted.


Attachment: RGS 02 32.jpeg (Downloaded 29 times)

Mikel Parker
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Next,

grab irons and some hand grabs to form and drill...

Getting close to being done.



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I use toilet paper
(the cheap one without a pattern) for tarpaper.

On plastic I put the pieces in place,
and then paint them over with liquid cement.

On wood very diluted white glue.

Paint after flat black and weather.

Jose.


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My way to do this, is to first paint the roof,
with a thick layer of the respective paint.

Then lay thin tissue paper in the wet paint so it soaks it up.
Maybe add a little more paint if necessary.



corv8
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Mikel Parker wrote:
Next, grab irons and some hand grabs to form and drill.


Will you provide a ladder, or separate wire steps,
for access to the roof walk ?

Also, some sort of chimney might make sense,
or the crew may freeze to death when plowing.


Steven B
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" I am doing things,
in a bit different order than instructions."



Bahahahahaha !
Right ? !

Mikel

I'm loving your build,
just catching up finally.

Been a very busy couple of months.


Mikel Parker
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Well I am playing hookie today.

Using the rain as an excuse
(got a fence to replace for a client)
but thought I'd show what I have got done.

I used some preformed grab irons I had for this side,
and since they kinda match prototype.

I formed the others by hand and I drilled locations
as close as I could to the plans and reference fotos.
Stirrup step is a casting.


Attachment: RGS 02 33.jpeg (Downloaded 32 times)

Mikel Parker
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This shot shows (sorry a bit dark)
back grabs and coupler lift bar and brackets begun.

You can see hand grabs and steps added,
and now on to air-line and coupler.


Attachment: RGS 02 34.jpeg (Downloaded 30 times)

Mikel Parker
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Here I added coupler and lift bar,
and some chain for the lift.

Can't see it very good (phone fotos)

Also chimney and flashing piece for it.
Interesting horn casting as well.


Attachment: RGS 02 35.jpeg (Downloaded 29 times)

Mikel Parker
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So here I bent some wire,
and pre-drilled fitting castings for the air-line,
adding weathering a bit at a time, as I go along.


Attachment: RGS 02 36.jpeg (Downloaded 25 times)

Mikel Parker
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A little different shot of air and coupler stuff in back.
Need some more paint/rust on these parts.

I love how photos show up things
that need more work on them.


Attachment: RGS 02 38.jpeg (Downloaded 25 times)

Mikel Parker
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A lot of fotos that are similar now.

But I wanted to show how it looks dusted and rusted,
and sort of in a real (!!) setting...

Hence the engine house.


Attachment: RGS 02 final 3.jpeg (Downloaded 23 times)

Mikel Parker
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Another angle at the little engine house.


Attachment: RGS 02 final 5 .jpeg (Downloaded 24 times)

Mikel Parker
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Shot of the rear, sorry a bit dark.


Attachment: RGS 02 final 4.jpeg (Downloaded 22 times)

Mikel Parker
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All in all a challenging kit,
pretty well done and good info. included.

If I was to build it again,
I would rather do more board by board,
than the sheet of siding, which was a bit fraught.

I think newer versions have laser cut pieces.

I really want to build it again in a bigger scale.
Be great to do in F-scale
(I'd have to get details 3D-printed...kinda distinctive parts)

Always loved the little 02.


Attachment: RGS 02 final 6.jpeg (Downloaded 20 times)

Mikel Parker
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Still looking for the right headlight casting,

like it had in its later years (Pyle style).


Thanx for following along.

...cheers

mikel


oztrainz
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Hi Mikel

These shouldn't be too hard to track down in the US.
Cal-Scale, Precision Scale did them in metal.

There are also some showing up on Shapeways.
One of the bigger hobby shops locally with an on-line store.

Hope that this helps.


corv8
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I first bought a number of 3D-printed Pyle headlights at Shapeways.

But was unhappy with them, as they were printed shut on the back,
and when I tried to drill through, at least 30% broke.

Have now had some local printer design and print some for me,
with a hole right through, so a 3mm LED will fit right in.

However, for such small vehicles they are a little large,
maybe I will order smaller ones, and fiddle with SMD LEDs then.


Si.
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Hi Mikel  :wave:

I saw this, I think, back in the late '80s ...  :old dude:

... in the 'Narrow Gauge & Shortline Gazette'.


BOTH as the 'Durango Press' you've made ...  :)

... & as plans, I think, by some dude as well.



I was modelling in 1:24n3 at that time ...

... & thought WOW it'd be a C :cool: :cool: L build !


BUT the plow blade had me stumped ...  :us:

... even as a fairly intrepid determined draftsman.



Anyway ... Your No.2 looks  T :cool: :cool:   C :cool: :cool: L

Your shed, with its crane & ground, GREAT too !


:moose: :moose: :moose: :moose: :moose:


Si.


corv8
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Mikel

Not sure if you have seen this picture already:





Mikel Parker
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Thanks !

Yeah I have been collecting all the views I can find,
and tried to base my build on them.

It has made me want to build it again,
in another (larger) scale...

Maybe someday.

Cheers


Mikel Parker
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Here's the light in place,

maybe a little closer to the final state of the plow...


Attachment: plow light 1 sm.jpeg (Downloaded 16 times)

Mikel Parker
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One more angle.

I think this is close to the headlight
as far as I could judge size wise and style.
(It's a Cal Scale casting)

Thank you Ebay (hahaha...)

The only thing left to add,
might be the frame that was set around the light,
not sure about that yet.






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