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Don Gage
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| Joined: | 13 May 2011 |
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| Posts: | 51 |
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Hello Dan
Welcome to Freerails.
You have a great start on the layout.
Keep up the good work.
Don
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Larry G
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Welcome, Dan
Love the name you have chosen for the layout.
The turntable,
with all those bolts and fasteners, is first rate.
Your track layout looks to have all the necessary elements,
for a nice bit of switching fun.
If you have a little more room on the right hand side,
you could add a loco shed off the turntable.
Larry Gant
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Mikel Parker
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Hey Dan, welcome !
Love the little layout.
I wish I had a shelf area,
to do this with my G-scale loco.
Very inspirational.
mikel
____________________
mikel
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Daniel Cooper
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| Joined: | 25 Mar 2022 |
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| Posts: | 36 |
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Don
Thank you for the warm welcome and encouraging comments.
I hope to add more soon.
So many things/ideas I want to try.
On todays list are 'No Clearance' signage on the turntable uprights.
SWMBO pointed out I didn't need any workers getting squished.
She's super good at occupational heath and safety.
Larry
I am honoured Sir.
Super stoked you like my little efforts.
The layout name, like much of what I do is a bit twee,
but hopefully sets the mood. I want to have fun.
I have had a lot of said fun building the turntable,
Much still to add to it,
signage and a brick pit wall for starters.
But it works and adds a lot to my 'play'.
Turning the engine to have trains leave town adds a bit of fun,
it allows me to turn my coach,
so passengers leave town facing the right way.
It was a great exercise in Fusion 360 and 3D-printing too.
The right side is slated for the back of the local Railway Hotel,
cough, bordello.
Placed at an angle to try and help with
the 'end of the world' layout edge problem.
I have thought of adding an open tin shed
backed onto another background flat
(Railway maintenance building ?)
on the left side of the turntable.
Not prototypical I know, but a spot to store the loco
out of the weather but not hide it from view.
So many ideas and projects.
(Funny that's the reason I started this whole caper)
Thanks again for your interesting and encouraging comments.
Mikel
Thanks !
I'm happy you like what I've done so far.
I hope to keep your interest.
G-scale sure does chew up the available space.
Though I think a six foot shelf could do in a pinch.
Everything is so big !
and where you can dodge or fake details in smaller scales,
everything is on show at this size.
I hope I can tempt you to start something,
because honestly I'm having a blast.
Thanks to everyone who has stopped by for a look.
I hope you have fun.
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Daniel Cooper
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| Joined: | 25 Mar 2022 |
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| Posts: | 36 |
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Thanks Si. !
I do love a little joke now and again.
It's all about the fun.
I have since added some 3D-printed stake pockets to the flatcar.
Need to add some lettering too.
Overall the layout got a bit of paint.
Both on the ground,
and a start was made on a small backdrop.
The turntable got some signage,
and a start was made on a brick walkway.
(I ran out of bricks ! 200 so far)
The rolling stock roster got some additions,
with a pair of nifty Bachmann side dump cars,
which are just great and actually work.
They have metal frames and wheels,
and run very well out of the box.
On the 3D-printing side, I started to design a tank,
to add to a second little flat car I'm working on.
(Still a WIP)
But all up a great week,
and so much other stuff to do/think about.
Need to get some kind of tethered throttle/controller,
find a spot where all my stock can sit while I work on the layout,
and fix up some kind of drape to cover up the benchwork.
Thanks for looking in.
Dan
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Larry G
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What you have done
with the bricks so far, looks great.
Are the bricks 1/2" scale doll house products,
or something else ?
Larry Gant
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Daniel Cooper
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| Joined: | 25 Mar 2022 |
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The brickwork is a lot of fun, but very repetitive.
I do a little bit, then wonder off and do something else.
Once sealed with varnish and an application of some spacial grouting,
some weathering and some weeds, it should look okay.
I used pre-mixed coloured plaster 1:24 scale bricks from Juweels,
that I bought from BNA Model World.com Link to bricks
I have made my own bricks in 1:48 in the past, but honestly,
for the money, they are a lot easier to just buy them.
You do use a surprising number of them,
for any project of a decent size.
IHTH.
Dan
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Daniel Cooper
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| Joined: | 25 Mar 2022 |
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I just could not wait.
I added a tethered DC throttle to the layout.
Man ! What an improvement !
So much more fun
to be able to control the engine on the move
without having to run back to the controller after every move.
I think the loco runs a bit smoother too.
I do wish that the throttle box had a hook or a loop
so as to be able to hang it from the facia when not in use
but I'm sure I'll come up with something.
I also added a cabinet
to house all the wiring and whatnot out of the way.
I mounted an old wooden box that some booze came in
and which I have been meaning to chuck out for ages.
(Never throw out anything) and painted it up for fun.
I still need to clean up, shorten some wires,
label said wires and do some cable management.
But running trains just got a whole lot more fun.
Thanks for looking in.
Dan
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2foot6
Moderator
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I use Velcro (hook Tape)
to hang my controllers.
There is some Velcro tape
that is self-adhesive on one side
and the hooks on the other side.
............Peter.
____________________
I aspire to inspire before I expire.
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Daniel Cooper
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| Joined: | 25 Mar 2022 |
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Thanks Peter.
That's a wonderful suggestion.
I'll have to see if I can make that work.
Dan
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Daniel Cooper
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| Joined: | 25 Mar 2022 |
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Installed the Velcro and it works a treat.
I added a thin wooden border to the Velcro
to give me something to feel for
when I stick the controller to the side of the electrical box.
Looks much better
and makes it look more finished.
Thank you Peter.
Latest project is a little coach.
Based on the Bachmann Lil Big Hauler coach.
A quite nice moulding and very inexpensive
except for the cost to ship it to Australia.
Overall I was pretty happy with it out of the box
but I didn't like that it had no glazing for the windows
so bashed up an interior out of plastic card and strip.
To fit the glazing there is a thin gap
between the interior wall and the car body
for me to add clear plastic glazing after painting.
The car was very light and didn't track too well
so added some large lead fishing weights to the underside.
It's much better now.
While I was at it I carved off the moulded handrails
and made replacements from 1mm stiff brass rod.
Added some 3D-printed seats and link and pin coupler pockets
and some athletic tape for the canvas roofing.
Pretty close to going to the paint shop
and shooting some Maroon colour for the exterior
and I'll do oil paints over acrylics for the wood grained interior.
Lettering will be done with vinyl masks
cut on the Silhouette cutter.
Thanks for looking in.
Dan
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Larry G
Registered
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"I'll do oil paints over acrylics for the wood grained interior. "
Dan
I'm not familiar with this technique. 
Please tell us the reason for painting in this manner.
Larry G
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Daniel Cooper
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| Joined: | 25 Mar 2022 |
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Hi Larry.
I would like to have a clear lacquer finished
wooden looking interior.
The best way I know to get this wood grained finish,
is to first spray a light tan or flesh /pinkish colour base coat overall.
I tend to use Tamiya flesh.
Over this you then brush a thin coat of brown oil paint.
I like Vandyke Brown,
but Umber's and Sienna's work too and give differing results.
You will need a fairly stiff flat brush,
and work the paint pretty hard into all the corners and nooks.
You will leave brush marks but that's the method.
Just be careful brush strokes go in the direction of the woodgrain.
Once you are happy with the results,
leave the paint for a week or more,
then clear varnish to protect/seal the oil paints.
You can use Tamiya acrylic clear,
or mix in clear yellow or orange to warm the finish a bit.
I have used the technique a lot in large scale WWI planes,
usually for props, struts and the unpainted wooden bits.
Here is a sample of my poor efforts.
A 1:28 scale Sopwith Camel.
I hope I explained that well enough.
It's pretty easy to do, but like all techniques takes practice.
The important thing is to give the oil paint plenty of time to dry,
as it is a pretty fragile until sealed.
IHTH.
Dan
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Daniel Cooper
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Here are those pics. you asked for Peter.
I just made a little two sided pocket out of 12x12mm pine,
so that when I blindly place the controller on the side of the electrical box,
it's guided to the Velcro spot.
Works pretty well,
and keeps the controller from twisting on the Velcro.
IHTH
Dan
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2foot6
Moderator
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Thanks for the pics. Dan.
It's a good idea.
......Peter.
____________________
I aspire to inspire before I expire.
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Larry G
Registered
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Thanks for explaining your wood graining technique.
Don't have a need for this at the moment,
but could, in the future.
Larry G
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Daniel Cooper
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| Joined: | 25 Mar 2022 |
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Silly question time.
I am working on my little Lehmann Porter,
specifically the lights, and have run into a problem.
I bought the little guy many moons ago 2nd hand,
and it never did have any light bulbs fitted.
I thought since I'm tarting up the little fellow,
I'd add some lights.
On looking around I found I could get
some small white LEDs already in Edison E5 fittings.
Simples I thought.
They just screw right into the factory fitting,
and do work great, but only in reverse ?!!
Messing about with the track wiring made no difference.
The lights both only come on when the loco is in reverse.
Am I missing something ?
Someone out there must know what I'm doing wrong.
Any ideas ?
If you have any ideas please let me know,
as I'm totally stumped.
Thanks.
Dan
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