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Daniel Cooper
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Hello all.

I've just joined,
and hope to add a little to this wonderful Forum.

I returned to the hobby,
after many years modelling other subjects.

I hope to build a small switching layout in G-scale.

I have made a bit of a start using what I had to hand,
and without too much experience.


'Tumbledowne' is meant to be a relaxing large scale
working diorama and shunting time waster.

A place where I can have fun,
not take things too seriously and enjoy modelling.

Set in the period just before WWI
in some undetermined spot in the USA.

The idea is to just build something reasonably quickly
and cheaply but have an overall nice looking finish.


The plan so far is...





I have roughed in the baseboards and have the track down
so as to run trains and see if I like the layout.

Which so far I do.










I have been slowly building up some rolling stock,
3D-printed up some link and pin couplers.

And bashed up a very small manual turntable.















I've been bashing in an interior for a Bachmann coach,
and hope to have a caboose on roster soon.

Till then I'll keep bashing away,
and running trains with a big smile on my face.

Thank you all for looking in.
I hope you like.

Dan


Don Gage
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Hello Dan

Welcome to Freerails.


You have a great start on the layout.

Keep up the good work.

Don


Larry G
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Welcome, Dan

Love the name you have chosen for the layout.

The turntable,
with all those bolts and fasteners, is first rate.

Your track layout looks to have all the necessary elements,
for a nice bit of switching fun.

If you have a little more room on the right hand side,
you could add a loco shed off the turntable.

Larry Gant


Mikel Parker
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Hey Dan, welcome !

Love the little layout.

I wish I had a shelf area,
to do this with my G-scale loco.

Very inspirational.

mikel


Daniel Cooper
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Don

Thank you for the warm welcome and encouraging comments.
I hope to add more soon.

So many things/ideas I want to try.
On todays list are 'No Clearance' signage on the turntable uprights.

SWMBO pointed out I didn't need any workers getting squished.
She's super good at occupational heath and safety.

:2t:


Larry

I am honoured Sir.
Super stoked you like my little efforts.

The layout name, like much of what I do is a bit twee,
but hopefully sets the mood.  I want to have fun.

I have had a lot of said fun building the turntable,

Much still to add to it,
signage and a brick pit wall for starters.

But it works and adds a lot to my 'play'.

Turning the engine to have trains leave town adds a bit of fun,
it allows me to turn my coach,
so passengers leave town facing the right way.

It was a great exercise in Fusion 360 and 3D-printing too.


The right side is slated for the back of the local Railway Hotel,
cough, bordello.

Placed at an angle to try and help with
the 'end of the world' layout edge problem.


I have thought of adding an open tin shed
backed onto another background flat
(Railway maintenance building ?)
on the left side of the turntable.

Not prototypical I know, but a spot to store the loco
out of the weather but not hide it from view.


So many ideas and projects.
(Funny that's the reason I started this whole caper)

Thanks again for your interesting and encouraging comments.


Mikel

Thanks !

I'm happy you like what I've done so far.
I hope to keep your interest.

G-scale sure does chew up the available space.
Though I think a six foot shelf could do in a pinch.

Everything is so big !
and where you can dodge or fake details in smaller scales,
everything is on show at this size.

I hope I can tempt you to start something,
because honestly I'm having a blast.

Thanks to everyone who has stopped by for a look.
I hope you have fun.


Si.
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On its way ^^ to the Roadrunner in Arizona, no doubt !  ;)


Those squirrels you have working for you,  :shocked:

do a GREAT job on lettering & weathering !!


Hi Dan  :wave:


I really like the layout & plan.  :thumb:

I hope it's operating as you like to ?

I used to build 1:24n3,  :old dude:

& always fancied a small indoor G-scale layout.


I think Porters & 4-axle cars,  L:

are a bit more practical, than Shays & trucked cars.


Love that turntable !

Just right for dat lil' locy.  :cool:


I am looking forward to seeing how it all goes.  :)

What's next on the bench ?


:java::moose::dt:


Si.


Daniel Cooper
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Thanks Si. !

I do love a little joke now and again.
It's all about the fun.


I have since added some 3D-printed stake pockets to the flatcar.
Need to add some lettering too.





Overall the layout got a bit of paint.

Both on the ground,
and a start was made on a small backdrop.

 



The turntable got some signage,
and a start was made on a brick walkway.
(I ran out of bricks !  200 so far)





The rolling stock roster got some additions,
with a pair of nifty Bachmann side dump cars,
which are just great and actually work.

They have metal frames and wheels,
and run very well out of the box.





On the 3D-printing side, I started to design a tank,
to add to a second little flat car I'm working on.
(Still a WIP)





But all up a great week,
and so much other stuff to do/think about.

Need to get some kind of tethered throttle/controller,
find a spot where all my stock can sit while I work on the layout,
and fix up some kind of drape to cover up the benchwork.

Thanks for looking in.

Dan


Larry G
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What you have done
with the bricks so far, looks great.

Are the bricks 1/2" scale doll house products,
or something else ?

Larry Gant


Daniel Cooper
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The brickwork is a lot of fun, but very repetitive.
I do a little bit, then wonder off and do something else.

Once sealed with varnish and an application of some spacial grouting,
some weathering and some weeds, it should look okay.

I used pre-mixed coloured plaster 1:24 scale bricks from Juweels,
that I bought from BNA Model World.com Link to bricks

I have made my own bricks in 1:48 in the past, but honestly,
for the money, they are a lot easier to just buy them.

You do use a surprising number of them,
for any project of a decent size.

IHTH.

Dan


Daniel Cooper
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I just could not wait.
I added a tethered DC throttle to the layout.

Man !  What an improvement !

So much more fun
to be able to control the engine on the move
without having to run back to the controller after every move.

I think the loco runs a bit smoother too.


I do wish that the throttle box had a hook or a loop
so as to be able to hang it from the facia when not in use
but I'm sure I'll come up with something.


I also added a cabinet
to house all the wiring and whatnot out of the way.

I mounted an old wooden box that some booze came in
and which I have been meaning to chuck out for ages.
(Never throw out anything) and painted it up for fun.

:glad:

I still need to clean up, shorten some wires,
label said wires and do some cable management.

But running trains just got a whole lot more fun.










Thanks for looking in.

Dan


2foot6
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I use Velcro (hook Tape)
to hang my controllers.

There is some Velcro tape
that is self-adhesive on one side
and the hooks on the other side.

............Peter.


Daniel Cooper
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Thanks Peter.

That's a wonderful suggestion.

I'll have to see if I can make that work.

Dan


Daniel Cooper
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Installed the Velcro and it works a treat.

I added a thin wooden border to the Velcro
to give me something to feel for
when I stick the controller to the side of the electrical box.

Looks much better
and makes it look more finished.

Thank you Peter.



Latest project is a little coach.
Based on the Bachmann Lil Big Hauler coach.

A quite nice moulding and very inexpensive
except for the cost to ship it to Australia.


Overall I was pretty happy with it out of the box
but I didn't like that it had no glazing for the windows
so bashed up an interior out of plastic card and strip.

To fit the glazing there is a thin gap
between the interior wall and the car body
for me to add clear plastic glazing after painting.


The car was very light and didn't track too well
so added some large lead fishing weights to the underside.
It's much better now.


While I was at it I carved off the moulded handrails
and made replacements from 1mm stiff brass rod.

Added some 3D-printed seats and link and pin coupler pockets
and some athletic tape for the canvas roofing.


Pretty close to going to the paint shop
and shooting some Maroon colour for the exterior
and I'll do oil paints over acrylics for the wood grained interior.

Lettering will be done with vinyl masks
cut on the Silhouette cutter.










Thanks for looking in.

Dan


2foot6
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:wave:

Glad the Velcro worked out for you.

Can you post a pic. of the wooden frame you made ?


Sounds like a good idea,

anything to make things easier.

:old dude:

......Peter.


Larry G
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"I'll do oil paints over acrylics for the wood grained interior. "


Dan

I'm not familiar with this technique.  ???

Please tell us the reason for painting in this manner. 



Larry G


Daniel Cooper
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Hi Larry.

I would like to have a clear lacquer finished
wooden looking interior.


The best way I know to get this wood grained finish,
is to first spray a light tan or flesh /pinkish colour base coat overall.
I tend to use Tamiya flesh.

Over this you then brush a thin coat of brown oil paint.
I like Vandyke Brown,
but Umber's and Sienna's work too and give differing results.


You will need a fairly stiff flat brush,
and work the paint pretty hard into all the corners and nooks.
You will leave brush marks but that's the method.
Just be careful brush strokes go in the direction of the woodgrain.

Once you are happy with the results,
leave the paint for a week or more,
then clear varnish to protect/seal the oil paints.

You can use Tamiya acrylic clear,
or mix in clear yellow or orange to warm the finish a bit.


I have used the technique a lot in large scale WWI planes,
usually for props, struts and the unpainted wooden bits.

Here is a sample of my poor efforts.
A 1:28 scale Sopwith Camel.










I hope I explained that well enough.
It's pretty easy to do, but like all techniques takes practice.

The important thing is to give the oil paint plenty of time to dry,
as it is a pretty fragile until sealed.

IHTH.

Dan


Daniel Cooper
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Here are those pics. you asked for Peter.










I just made a little two sided pocket out of 12x12mm pine,
so that when I blindly place the controller on the side of the electrical box,
it's guided to the Velcro spot.

Works pretty well,
and keeps the controller from twisting on the Velcro.

IHTH

Dan


2foot6
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Thanks for the pics. Dan.

It's a good idea.


......Peter.




Larry G
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Thanks for explaining your wood graining technique.

Don't have a need for this at the moment,

but could, in the future.

Larry G


Daniel Cooper
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Silly question time.

I am working on my little Lehmann Porter,
specifically the lights, and have run into a problem.

I bought the little guy many moons ago 2nd hand,
and it never did have any light bulbs fitted.

I thought since I'm tarting up the little fellow,
I'd add some lights.


On looking around I found I could get
some small white LEDs already in Edison E5 fittings.

Simples I thought.

They just screw right into the factory fitting,
and do work great, but only in reverse ?!!

Messing about with the track wiring made no difference.
The lights both only come on when the loco is in reverse.


Am I missing something ?

Someone out there must know what I'm doing wrong.
Any ideas ?

If you have any ideas please let me know,
as I'm totally stumped.

Thanks.

Dan


Nice Guy Eddie
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Hi Dan


I know not to stick my fingers in the A.C. wall sockets.

And stripping wire with my teeth ruins the enamel !


I think the answer is, an LED is a Diode,

and as such, only conducts in ONE direction only,

a Light Emitting Diode passes a forward-voltage.


Or in your locos case, a going in reverse voltage !


Your track Polarity +/- changes for forwards,

and therefore the LED won't light up that way.


Old skool type directional loco lighting works,

by wiring up Diodes to ol' vintage filament-bulbs,

which then only light up in ONE direction.

:!:

Eddie


Daniel Cooper
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Thanks Eddie.

What I did was swap the leads to the socket,
and now the lights work in forwards movement.

It's the way the LEDs are prewired into the 'bulb'.
Only one polarity works.

What threw me is, reversing the polarity of the rails,
doesn't change anything,
as I think the lights are wired in after the motor too,
so direction of the motor, is what sets the lights polarity.

Well that's a simple change made a bit more complete.

I think if I want bi-directional lights,
I'll need to add some more LEDs with opposite polarity.

Not impossible, but I was hoping for a simple screw in fix.
Such it the fun of modelling.

Dan


Helmut
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Seems there is an onboard circuit built in,
that delivered filtered 5V DC to the bulbs.

A trick LGB used in conjunction with 5V bulbs,
to have almost constant lighting from the start.

There used to be two outlets,
one for forward, one for reverse,
to have directional lighting nevertheless.

So check the innards of your loco,
for a 'suspicious' electronics' board.


Steve Fry
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My version (from the Internet).


Go to this site for the electronics list.

http://www.pollensoftware.com/railroad/parts.html
 

I used two boards linked for bi-directional lighting in DC.

PM me for a circuit diagram.


Daniel Cooper
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Thanks, Helmut and Steve,
neat ideas.

I think I've got myself sorted,
if only in the forward direction right now.  


A bit of a back and forth week.

I realised that my couplers were way too small in this scale,
and decided to resized them up by 150 percent.

This meant reprinting them all and reinstalling them.

This also laid bare my abysmal standardisation,
in that I needed to make a gauge,
so all the couplers would be at close to the same height,
on all the cars, for good operation.  


The paint shop was busy,
blacking in the exterior of the coach,
lettering coming soon.










The colour is SWMBO's choice and I do think it's striking.
I can now get to painting the interior wood grain finish.

The workshop has started to add bits back onto the Loco,
and getting her ready for the paint shop.

Worked on some LED lighting,
and other bits and pieces.


Worst news is my beloved Dremel Stylist motor tool,
is finally going to give up the ghost.

She won't hold much of a charge now,
and after years and years of great service will need to retire.

Trouble is they don't make the this style anymore,
and I'll have to adjust to something new, sigh.


Off to do family stuff over Easter weekend,
so that's enough modelling.


Thanks for looking in.

Dan


corv8
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She won't hold much of a charge now,
and after years and years of great service will need to retire.


Dan

Have removed defective accumulators from hand held machines,
and added leads to connect them with one of my trusty 16V power packs.

If you don't insist on moving around freely in the layout room,
this avoids retiring a good working tool.


Daniel Cooper
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I'm gonna stop here for a bit.
Too many other things to play with.

I've got the Porter back together and I can run trains again.

The sliding cab windows took ages,
but it's one thing I really wanted to add.

Basic paint now on and some of the details are getting there.

I still want to do a 3D-printed smokebox front and some Moose antlers.
Lights and lettering to add, then weathering and some crew figures.

But for now she looks a bit more like she should.










Having a blast.

I'm going to go run some trains.


Thanks for looking in.

Dan


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Hi Dan

For many years,
I've attached controllers and power sources
to layout sides with Velcro strips.

They hold well, but make it easy
to remove the controllers.

Regards, Dave L.


oztrainz
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Hi Dan

Have you looked at something like this "special" from Bachmann US

Bachmann Trains

For your missing smokebox door ?

You get a lot of other stuff that might be useful too.  ;)


Daniel Cooper
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I've been working away on Tumbledowne.
Bits and pieces everyday.

It has been great therapy for me,
and I'm very much enjoying modelling trains once again.


Not very photogenic, but I purchased a Mylocosounds sound card,
and succeed in getting it set up.

A very nice unit, very small in size,
but great features and easy to use.

I don't intend to install it on the loco, as I don't want to loose cab details,
but I have fitted it to the layout, and had much fun playing with it.

With such a small layout you only loose a little bit of immersion,
not having the sound coming from the loco.


I did however need a small building to mount the unit onto the layout.
So...  I have started to bash one up.





I don't think it's too shabby so far.
Just some 30mm foam sheet covered in balsa.

The windows are Evergreen strip styrene over some O-scale windows,
used as a core to keep everything square and the right size.

Bricks are the same ones I have used for the turntable walkway,
grouted in with, well, tile grout.

I don't yet know what colours I'm going to go with,
cream yellow with red primer trim, is the front runner right now.

Plans call for a tarpaper shingled roof (sandpaper),
and a set of wooden steps and a lean-to out the back.

The structure is meant to be a paint and flammables store,
so some nice 'NO SMOKING' and 'Flammable' signs seem in order.


Thanks for looking in.

Dan


GUTMACH
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Fun little project.

G & D, that would not be 'Gorre & Daphetid', would it ?


3D-printing, I have a Flashforge Adventurer 3,
and I use FreeCAD for all of my design work.

What 3D-printer do you have ?

-Wayde


Daniel Cooper
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Thanks Wayde,
I'm having a ton of fun.


G & D comes from my wife's and my first initials.
Nothing too cerebral I know, but it seemed a good idea years ago.

I've worked out many things in my imaginary world,
but never pinned down an actual in 'world' name.
 
It's always just been the G & D.
I should perhaps give it some thought.

'Gorre & Daphetid' is just too iconic to even think about. 


The 3D-printer I use is a bog standard Elegoo Mars,
a pretty old first model with no bells or whistles.

The old girl has never missed a beat, and still works very well.

I would like a newer one with a 4K screen and a bigger print area,
but can't justify it yet, as this one still works so well.


I design in Fusion 360, which is an outstanding program,
I highly recommend it.

Slicing is done with the Lychee Slicer, which I'm still learning,
after switching from Chitubox.

Dan


Daniel Cooper
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A bit of progress.

Roof on and shingled and a touch of paint.

A lot more to do, but starting to look like something.





Thanks for looking in.

Dan


Daniel Cooper
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Another day another project.

Worked on the coach interior.
Started adding oil paint for the wood grain.

Not perfect but good practice and I don't think you
could even see it in the car unless the roof was off.

Still, I know it's there.
Sometimes you just do stuff for fun.





My good friend Bill pointed out that I hadn't painted
the rail sides on the new points I'd bought.

So I broke out the paint, added some ballast
and knocked together some steps for the shed.

( Strangely I haven't added a door knob yet, oops ) 





All told not a bad result for the week.


Dan


Daniel Cooper
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While waiting for the paint to dry on the coach interior,
I got to making some 3D-printed parts for the Porter.

I wanted a smokebox door with raised lettering,
and a square older style headlight.

A few hours with Fusion 360 and some printing,
and here we are.




















oztrainz
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Hi Daniel

The new number plate and large lantern

really make your Porter stand out from the crowd.

Well done.

:apl:  :apl:  :apl: :2t:


Si.
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Hi Dan  :wave: 


Your Porter mods. are AWESOME !  :bow:





All the custom detailing on the front ...

... really does make her look great.  :thumb:


I could do with a couple of nice ol' headlamps like that !  L:


:java::moose: :dt:


Si.


Daniel Cooper
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Thank you John

I do like the way they make the little girl pop.


Si.

I am very pleased you like my small efforts.
I hope I can continue to delight.


My latest efforts were a little fence section,
something to break/hide the gap between the backdrop and the layout.





Because I can reposition it, the fence makes a good prop
to disguise the joint between the backdrop and the layout in photos. 

No doubt I can work it into the layout as I go. 


More progress. 





I think I might try my hand at some simple background painting,
maybe some Bob Ross inspired trees and bushes ?


Thanks for looking in.

Dan


Daniel Cooper
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Added a new front foot board with 3D-printed brackets,
and finally got the bell sorted.

What has really surprised me was how good the iPhone takes pictures.
Based on this pic. I might have to retire the old DSLR.





Thanks for looking in.

Dan


Daniel Cooper
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I've been taking it a bit easy lately.

My wife has been pampering me because I just had my 60th Birthday.
I'm a very lucky guy to have someone so special.


I've gotten back to work and started a second building.
Two stories tall this time.

Boswell's Balloons is coming along well enough to start the painting.

I've pretty much roughed out all the walls,
and just need to finish the clapboard siding on the upper front face.


Only thing to show is the lower floor roller door.





I think I'll add a 'Keep Clear' sign just to add some colour.

The bigger scale sure is a bit of a kick,
lots of space to fill and play with.

Learning as I go.
More as soon as I get back to the individual clapboards.

Dan


Larry G
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That is an impressive door.


Looking forward to seeing how you make a window.

I'm sure it will be first rate. 


Larry G


Daniel Cooper
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Thanks Larry.

The windows are 3D-printed on this one.

I made a few mistakes, but I think they will look okay,
and show the way for ever better ones in the future.


I purchased some acrylic inks on the weekend,
and had a little play.

Only bought white, black and burnt umber to start.
Not cheap at $17.20 a bottle, but look to go a long way.

I have been experimenting with spraying them,
thinned with water and matt medium.

Very interesting,
but still at the crawling stage.

I very much like that I can finally get very thin colours,
without runs or spider webbing.

The colour can sneak up on you, if you do not have good lighting.
I think softly softly is much the best way to go with these materials.

I can see a good case for adding some other colours to the workbench.





All the bottom of the brickwork and in the corners and lower bits,
got a few different sprays.

I think the white will help fade some paintwork on another project.

I like that they work a bit like castle chalks,
but are permanent and don't need a sealing lacquer.


Also think I'll retire the old DSLR,
as the iPhone seems to work better and is easier to use.

I couldn't get this shot even with a tripod with the DSLR,
and this was just a very quick hand held happy snap.

Oh how technology marches on.


Thanks for looking in.

Dan



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