Freerails > Model Railroad Forums > Weathering & Detailing > Finishing A Wooden Laser-Cut Kit - OO Scale |
Freerails > Model Railroad Forums > Weathering & Detailing > Finishing A Wooden Laser-Cut Kit - OO Scale |
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Tim H Registered
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This may not be the right place to post this query, but here goes. Just started a Peco wooden laser-cut kit for a diorama, it is lovely but fiddly, however my main concern, is how to finish the building ? All the detail is printed on, there is no raised surface detail, and a layer of paint would obliterate the details.  My first thought would be to apply a wash of very dilute acrylic, opaque enough to colour the wood, but not to lose the surface printed detail. Laser-cut kits are not as prolific across the pond, and any suggestions would be welcome. Thank you. Tim |
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Rod Hutchinson Registered 
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What raised detail do you mean ? |
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Si.archived Registered 
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Hi Tim  Good to see you back on Freerails ...  ... & beavering away in your shed ! The burnt-edges of laser-cut wood ... ... pretty much means, nuke 'em in paint. The contrast between wood & burnt, is high ... ... light washes, just won't cover that contrast. Nice looking OO-scale kit by Peco.     Si. |
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Tim H Registered
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A few minutes ago, a new set of eaves for the pitched roof were made, the images shows their supports being glued into place.  Unfortunately, there seems to be a shortage of 1mm ply, I will be using card, it has the advantage of being available and compatible with ply. I intend to apply a very dilute wash of acrylic light grey, enough to colour the wood but not to obscure the printed lines. Below is someone's previous attempt, it has not been stained.
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Ken C Registered 
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Tim As a suggestion, I've used 'GOLDEN' shading grey, which is transparent, on a few structures and stock. I pick mine up at a craft store, not sure if you can get it in GB, sure there should be something similar. The PECO building looks good, wrong scale for my modelling though.  |
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Tim H Registered
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Everyday the little wooden building progresses, the glued joints of the modified roof will harden overnight, otherwise it is OK.  I intend to experiment on some scrap bits with acrylic light grey thinned with water+alcohol, not a thick layer, just a wash. The plastic windows and doors are just waiting to be glazed, always a faff. The building is quite small, enough for a low key diorama.
Tim |
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Reg H Moderator 
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Nice looking build. I have never encountered printed details (except in some card buildings) It seems a bit strange. Looking forward to photos of the diorama. Reg |
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Si.archived Registered
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" All the detail is printed on " " Printed lines " " I have never encountered printed details (except in some card buildings) It seems a bit strange "  As Tim said, there is no "raised detail". I think the surface "printed detail" mentioned, is actually detail surface-burnt, by the LASER.  The LASER produced surface-burnt lines, defining the boarded sides & floor etc. The through-burnt LASER cuts, are the black-holes in the photo.  Si. |
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Tim H Registered
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A bit more progress.  A wash with very dilute Amish Grey acrylic by DecorArt has not obscured the printed lines, the intended effect is a weather-worn clapboard structure near the sea. Once completely dry, tomorrow, a wash with MiG green mould and some highlights with charcoal. The corrugated roof needs to be rusty and weathered, usually the iron would have been tarred but over the years this wears to a light grey. It isn't worth detailing the interior but a chair on the stoop would not go unnoticed. |
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Nice Guy Eddie Registered 
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The detailing produced by the burnt in lines, normally produces a slight depression in the wood, where the material has been vaporized away. The kit designers apply it like injection moulding, it can usually be painted over totally opaque, and dealt with a bit like scribed basswood siding. Eddie |
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Tim H Registered
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Yesterday evening the roof was painted with artist's burnt sienna, when dry it was much too 'bold' and needed letting down. This is just after a wash of DecorArt Amish Grey that is well-diluted but still wet, it will change colour when fully dry.  Still lots to do, a chair for the stoop and weathering for the clapboard. Tim |
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Rod Hutchinson Registered
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I would try drybrushing colours. Less impact on raised detail, and makes for a weathered appearance. |
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Tim H Registered
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The trick with weathering is knowing when to stop. The 'office' merely needed a wash to let-down the roof colour (now dry) and a subtle touch of muck on the front step and at the corners of the window where the water drips off the sill. I am going to leave it alone for a few weeks and see how it works with the other structures. 
That's all folks, you can follow the building of the diorama on this blog
Tim
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