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slateworks
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Gerold, there is, in the real thing, a floor between the gears and the operators and this was taken care of later in the build.
The next instalment will see the beginnings of the cosmetic drive construction.Last edited on 17 Mar 2023 12:38 pm by slateworks
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Doug
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slateworks
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I think one's enough Forrest! Based on a working prototype, it's got some credence but some of those designs look like something Rowland Emett would create!
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Doug
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Kitbash0n30
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slateworks wrote: but some of those designs look like something Rowland Emett would create!
Hoped you would enjoy them! 
As my health has declined I've cut back how many forums I'm on but there is/was (I've not looked to see if it still is) a Gn15 forum named Gnatterbox where a couple members had built quite a number of Emett inspired models, and a long gone G scale website/forum named AwwNuts may have featured some too.
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See y'all later, Forrest.
Screw the rivets, I'm building for atmosphere
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slateworks
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It looks as though Gnatterbox is a "was" Forrest, as it has been missing for some months now and the subject of some discussion on the other forum I contribute to, NGRM Online.
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Doug
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Bernd
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That gear arrangement is quite interesting with two drive pinions driving one ring gear. Did you realize that one piston is running back wards in order to turn the ring gear? Just wondering if you're all up on gearing. 
BerndLast edited on 17 Mar 2023 02:16 pm by Bernd
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slateworks
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Yes Bernd and it was the subject of much discussion as to whether it was a "slip gear" only locking the axle in one direction to allow reversing of the fan but it was decided that the pistons would operate one in forward and one in reverse gear at the same time with two pinion gears, both fixed to the axle.
On that subject, the cosmetic drive began to be built and this is, of course, a total cheat.
Firstly, to ensure no short circuits through the brass crown wheel, a styrene sheet was fashioned to cover the motor's electrical terminals (after power wires were soldered to them) and the end of the gearbox drive shaft and this styrene superglued in place. Then an extension to the motor mounting lugs was fashioned from styrene square tube and sheet to give more depth to the drive mounting area. In the photo this is all holding together by willpower and gravity!
The mounting lugs for the motor prevent the crown wheel from sitting in a logical position so the gear was cut into a T shape to fit the space available. By the same token a flat needed to be cut and filed into one edge of the bevel gear so that it would sit low enough to mate with the crown wheel and also a slice needed taking off the boss. Thus the drive is a total cheat where it appears that it is partly hidden by the motor mount but in fact is cut to fit. I thought when finished the subterfuge wouldn't be noticeable, at least I hoped not and this gave another reason for not trying to make it a working item. The games we play!!!! 
I needed to decide whether to add another bevel gear to the bare side of the drive shaft but as its possible inclusion in the prototype was still a bit of a mystery, that didn't happen immediately but came later. In any event the structure now needed finishing, filing, filling where necessary and priming and the gears gun blued where I hoped it would all just blend into one unit.
My main concern was the equalisation of the torque - theoretically only as this is a dummy mech - hence the possibility of two bevel gears and I added a "bearing housing" in the middle of the axle which will simply be a support if a continuous axle is employed with a two bevel gears.
With a rehash of the drive mechanism. I decided to go the two bevel gear route and re-prime the area.
The brass looks nice and blingy but I needed to gun blue the gears before final fixing!
I then removed the headlamp from the fan shroud.
It originally had a GOW bulb with heavy wiring which I wanted to change for an 0603 LED with much finer wiring which can be hidden more easily.
The hole for the entry of the bulb and its wire was rather large so I plugged it with a piece of styrene tube before inserting the LED which is just superglued in place and works just fine.
Last edited on 17 Mar 2023 04:31 pm by slateworks
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Doug
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Bernd
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Looking good Doug.
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slateworks
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Thanks Bernd. It's been probably one of my most complex efforts in construction and unlike you and the other machinists on here, I rely totally on styrene, glue, scalpel, saw, file, sandpaper and in extremes, a large hammer! It's all good fun though.
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Doug
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Bernd
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Starting to come together for you Doug. Looks good.
Bernd
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corv8
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Doug, its maybe to late by now but I notice the cylinders are lower than the shaft, and horizontally orientated - Wouldnt it be necessary to have them tilted up a little so the centerline is straight toward the shaft?
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Gerold
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slateworks
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You're probably right Gerold but it's the best I could do at the time and it should still work. It is fixed now so too late to change but I take your point. In fact, in the drawings the drive axle is offset slightly above the horizontal "push line" of the connecting rod and the cylinder is set horizontally so my take is fairly close to reality. Last edited on 20 Mar 2023 11:18 am by slateworks
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Doug
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slateworks
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Bernd, getting there but more to come.
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slateworks
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Bad news and not so bad news at Updah where a trial run of the plough on its wheels has exposed a clearance problem at the high level tunnel mouth. And what's more, it's on the "modelled" side where cribbing has been added and I'm not going to try to correct it as that would mean a lot of destructive work on an area I can barely reach without scattering and potentially destroying other items all over the terrain. So much for forward planning! So the plough will be a "there and back" unit travelling on a very limited length of track and spending much of its time in the service area. I had, of course, forecast this possibility at the beginning of the build so I'm not too downhearted but it's still a bit of a bummer!
This then raises the question of what should be seen and a fantastically informative article by C. Langdon Campbell lll was sent to me by Ken C from Free Rails for which many thanks Ken. Lots of operational detail and some fine detailed drawings covering the interior in plan and elevation although not a plan of the elusive gearbox unfortunately. This confirms that the "shed" built much along boxcar lines was fully removable for major servicing but in Updah's unit's case this won't happen as that would involve too much potential damage to exposed pieces such as the smokestack, steam dome and other vertically sited appendages passing through the roof.
However, to paraphrase Dylan, the deed it is done, the die it is cast and I decideded to create a removable panel in one side of the shed. My straight line cutting still leaves much to be desired but now you see it
and now you don't!
It's simply one panel with an interference fit against a thin supporting frame of styrene.
The interior will be visible from several angles
so a lot more work was needed on the inside, not the least of which was printing off wood paneling images onto self adhesive label paper to stick on the inside of the shed walls as well as making a roof outlet for the steam driven generator and some more of the quite complex pipework around the boiler.
Then of course there was more outside detail with the under body flanger blades, support rods for the plough casing from the shed cab, actuating rods that move the fan cowling outer sides for "width of cut", coupling to tender, fuel for the tender and many more bits and pieces. At least I didn't get bored in lockdown!
Small steps again with the shed getting a first coat of Halfords red primer as a top coat paint.
A styrene wall has been created between the front cab and the engine section and the interior walls have been covered in a plank print downloaded from a textures site on the 'net and printed on self adhesive label paper, perhaps a little too pinkish but should tone down with weathering as will the outside areas.
Now on to some more engine detailing and perhaps some hatches on the shed roof.
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Doug
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slateworks
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Just some vanity shots of the plough temporarily reassembled to check that the various bits of pipework fitted in their respective orifices in the roof.
Whilst doing this I looked again at the drawing acquired and it seems I really should have had a go at mocking up some representation of the valve mechanism which is sadly lacking on the Bachmann Mogul model.
I didn't have suitable raw materials to hand and I didn't think styrene would suffice even though this is a non-working set-up so I needed to start looking around the various spares suppliers to see if there is anything suitable from a proprietary model.
Well, having had absolutely no joy in finding suitable valve gear I thought I'd have a go at making some. My thick fingers and dodgy eyesight didn't augur well for the exercise but I thought what the hey! So I rummaged in various bits boxes and came up with some very raw material comprising watch parts, bits from small rheostats and other odds and ends salvaged from old electronic equipment, small parts salvaged from old loco projects, the remains of old etch waste, bits of this and bits of that and anything else I thought might be useful.
I only need the right hand side to be made up as the other will never be seen once the engine is secured in the shed so I reversed the side elevation drawing from the article and looked to see how I might make up the various bits.
The eccentric rod seemed the most difficult so that came first using a watch balance wheel as an outside ring, a part ripped from a tiny rheostat from some old electronic gizmo, a solid wire connector with a terminal ring on the end, some odd bits of electronic castings and a lot of superglue! This was followed by cutting, filing, drilling and generally mauling bits of old etch surround to make other legs of the set up and with the scrag ends of some couplings as pivot boxes I ended up with a rough kit of parts less the reversing rod which I've only just spotted. It's clearly operated from the front cab and is partially hiding behind the reversing arm going to the link.
Placing the kit parts onto the drawing shows that they're more or less OK and with a bit of fettling and oily steel paint should do the job required - at least to my lax standards!
Small steps again but my goodness, how frustrating small steps can be! The valve gear is now fully articulated and primed
and showing how rough it is in the cruel close ups, hopefully to be less so when painted with oily steel or Leadbelcher acrylics, tests yet to take place,
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Doug
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