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Four Axel Critter called "The Twins"
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 Posted: 12 Mar 2023 07:56 pm
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Bernd
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Back in 2016 I did a scratch build of two diesel powered box-cab units called the Twins. It was a tribute to a fallen forum member. I chose to do a pair of four axel critters based on the four axel On30 critters I built and doing a thread in the On30 section of the forum.

Here they are finished ready for a test run.




I started the project by purchasing a DD40 from E-bay.



The engine comes with two motors and an "N" scale decoder.



Next came the design of a sub-floor to mount the shell on. I hadn't decided whether to go with styrene or brass for the shell. Took some time for measuring to determine sizes.
Got the two floors cut to size and a hole in them for the gear tower.




Next on the agenda is to design the sides and cut them out on the CNC mill.I got started on the body design. Still debating whether to go with electric or Merlin power at that time




The side have been cut out on the Sherline CNC mill.



All cleaned up and ready to be soldered together.




I got the first one soldered together. Took two tries. The shell is just sitting on the sub-frame for now.



 I got a little smarter on the second one. The first one was free handed, meaning I held the parts together with my hands and got my fingers a bit hot. So, I made two fixtures to hold the parts while soldering on the second set.




The light-colored wood is rock maple. I milled it to the inside dimensions of the cab so I could solder the whole thing together. The second fixture is used to solder the first two side together, such as the front and one side. Here's all the tools used to accomplish the soldering. I used my resistance soldering rig to do the soldering. Note the less than 0ne square foot area to work in.




The finished cabs back-to-back.




Herre's a step by step or SBS of how I assembled the sides.
After much contemplation and redesign work, I've come up with a way to attach the shell to the power chassis, so they stay together when picked up. And a better way of making sure the shell assembly is square when soldering the sides together. I'm sure some would say why didn't you fold the sides and have only one side to solder? Long story short. The sides are .030" thick. Hard to get accurate bends without proper equipment, meaning a brake. So onward. I milled a piece of MDF with a square corner. This allows you to solder two sides together square.







Next a piece of rock maple was cut up to the size of inside dimension of the shell. The two previously soldered parts are clamped to the cut square and soldered.







Attaching the floor to the shell I made some tabs form angle stock and soldered them to the sides.




Holes were drilled and the floor tapped for 0-80 screws.




A piece of .030" thick styrene was glued to the top of the front beam so the floor would sit level front to back. The back end sits on the hump of the black protrusion which is .030" higher than the front beam.




Holes were drill through the front and a piece of brass stock as tapped 0-80 to hold down the front of the floor.




More to come on the parts that holds it all together.

Bernd

Last edited on 12 Mar 2023 08:00 pm by Bernd

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 Posted: 12 Mar 2023 11:40 pm
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slateworks
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Interesting build Bernd. I'm always impressed by those who can make soldering work - I'm not one of them! - and you look to have some other tools of which I'm most envious.



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 Posted: 13 Mar 2023 02:09 am
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Bernd
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slateworks wrote: Interesting build Bernd. I'm always impressed by those who can make soldering work - I'm not one of them! - and you look to have some other tools of which I'm most envious.
Doug,
My Dad taught me to solder at an early age. That might have a lot to do with it, plus all the years of practice. It can be learned.
I'm also interested in Home Shop machining so I have quite a few metal working tools. At one time I was interested in Live Steam so I bought a Bridgeport mill and a 10" Logan lathe. But I stuck with HO scale and acquired a Sherline manual lathe with milling attachment that I picked up at an auction. I purchased a bran new Sherline CNC mill 10 years ago and I have Grizzly mini-mill. That rounds out my machine shop.
Here's the Bridgeport.




And the Logan Lathe.




This a corner of the basement that houses my big machine tools.
Bernd

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 Posted: 13 Mar 2023 03:03 am
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2foot6
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Wow Bernd, you have an extensive workshop there, my way of making a whole is a drill and file the harder way. ....Peter  

Last edited on 13 Mar 2023 04:09 am by 2foot6



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 Posted: 13 Mar 2023 11:25 am
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Bernd
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2foot6 wrote: Wow Bernd, you have an extensive workshop there, my way of making a whole is a drill and file the harder way. ....Peter  

That's the room with the big machines. Behind me is a 10" table saw, planer, jointer and a router table. Once I find my model railroad shop pictures I'll post them.

Bernd

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 Posted: 13 Mar 2023 11:32 am
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slateworks
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As with 2foot6, all I can say is WOW!

Last edited on 13 Mar 2023 11:34 am by slateworks



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 Posted: 13 Mar 2023 03:01 pm
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Bernd
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slateworks wrote: As with 2foot6, all I can say is WOW!
The woodworking tools I bought to build the kitchen. I designed my own house had it roughed in by a contractor and I did/am doing the finish work. That's one of the reasons for woodworking machines.






The metal working machines are now behind me. I know metal and wood working machines shouldn't coexist in the same room, but I built an air filtration unit to sort of keep the dust down. That's in the above picture with the motor and belt showing. It's adequate enough to keep the dust down.

Bernd 

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 Posted: 13 Mar 2023 03:26 pm
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slateworks
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Impressive Bernd and hats off to your multifarious talents!



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 Posted: 13 Mar 2023 04:25 pm
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Bernd
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Ok, on with the critter "Twins" construction.

These are the mechanical parts to hold the chassis to the shell. The green circles show 0-80 screws going through to tapped holes in the floor. The red circle points to a milled piece to hold the rear end of the chassis to the floor. Also included is an 0-80 threaded hole for the semi-permanent drawbar.





Next up is forming the roof. I started this part of the project with drawing up curved roof formers for the CNC mill to cut out.









Here I'm using my home-made resistance soldering rig with a set of tweezers to solder the curved roof formers to square tubing.







To get both sides soldered together I used a piece of ceiling tile and bent up some pins to hold it together to solder up the other side.




Next is the curving the roof material. One has the former installed the other is beside the engine.




These roofs were tough to form. I tried a different approach by removing the square side pieces after I soldered on the roof formers.




The over hang was then bent down along the sides to hide the roof join at the sidewall.




I use a home made resistance soldering rig I built from a rewound microwave transformer and a Powerstat (variable voltage transformer). It puts out around 4 volts at 400amps at the terminals. It'll melt an 1/8" stainless steel rod in a couple of seconds.
Next I worked on the second roof, but approached it a bit differently having learned from the first roof. I added a third roof former to help hold the brass roof to a proper curvature. Using a jig plate with 1/4-20 threaded holes to hold the roof former down for soldering. The stir sticks insulated the brass from the aluminum plate and keeps the aluminum from sucking the heat away from the brass.




Flux is added to the bottom of the roof formers.




Cut up short pieces of solder. I use 1/16" dia. 60/40 solder for this.




Clamped the roof former to the tubing and added a piece of solder.




Apply heat.




And you have a soldered joint.




With one side held solidly with solder, the other side can be soldered.




A test fit on the shell.




I used a CAD program to draw the roof outline and printed it. A piece of .010" (mm?) thick brass sheet was used and glued to the brass with a spray adhesive.







Once cut out near the line a file was used to clean up to the line.




In order to bend the brass I used different sizes of round items, starting with largest diameter and working my way down to smaller diameters until the curve was close to hat I needed to fir the roof formers.










A test fit of the roof formers showed I had just want I wanted, bent a bit beyond the cured roof formers. When pressed down the roof conformed to the roof formers.




That's it for today. will be continued.

Bernd

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 Posted: 13 Mar 2023 05:24 pm
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Kitbash0n30
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Dunno that I would have ever thought of cutting short lengths of solder like that.

These tiny little critters will definitely benefit from the weight of those brass bodies for both electrical contact and tractive effort.



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 Posted: 13 Mar 2023 10:19 pm
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Bernd
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Kitbash0n30 wrote: Dunno that I would have ever thought of cutting short lengths of solder like that.

These tiny little critters will definitely benefit from the weight of those brass bodies for both electrical contact and tractive effort.



Another method I've used is solder paste. I've did a project where I used solder paste to build an old Syudam Two Stall Engine House. Another project I'll write up here when I get some time.
They are quite heavy. I'll have to weigh them sometime.
Bernd

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 Posted: 13 Mar 2023 10:59 pm
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corv8
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Bernd wrote:
 I've did a project where I used solder paste to build an old Syudam Two Stall Engine House. Another project I'll write up here when I get some time.

Bernd, I always wondered how to solder together Buckhorn Mine and other kits made from corrugated sheets by Ed Suydam.   Did you use a (heavy) soldering iron or a torch? 

Last edited on 13 Mar 2023 11:00 pm by corv8



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 Posted: 14 Mar 2023 03:12 pm
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Bernd
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corv8 wrote: Bernd wrote:
 I've did a project where I used solder paste to build an old Syudam Two Stall Engine House. Another project I'll write up here when I get some time.

Bernd, I always wondered how to solder together Buckhorn Mine and other kits made from corrugated sheets by Ed Suydam.   Did you use a (heavy) soldering iron or a torch? 


I used my resistance soldering rig for the larger portions of the build. I'll post a build thread on the engine house build when I get done with the HO and O scale critter posts.

Bernd

Last edited on 14 Mar 2023 03:13 pm by Bernd

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 Posted: 14 Mar 2023 04:27 pm
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Reg H
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I am very interested in hearing your experience with resistance soldering.

It has been awhile since I have done small scale soldering.  My current project (3/4" scale live steam Shay) involves a lot of silver soldering.  

Silver solder is not generally suited, nor necessary, for small scale model building.  

But the resistance soldering looks intriguing. 

In the past I have used solder paste and a 150 watt iron or a very small butane torch.   But that was decades ago.

Reg



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 Posted: 14 Mar 2023 05:44 pm
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Bernd
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Reg H wrote: I am very interested in hearing your experience with resistance soldering.

It has been awhile since I have done small scale soldering.  My current project (3/4" scale live steam Shay) involves a lot of silver soldering.  

Silver solder is not generally suited, nor necessary, for small scale model building.  

But the resistance soldering looks intriguing. 

In the past I have used solder paste and a 150 watt iron or a very small butane torch.   But that was decades ago.

Reg



I think you'll like the how's and whys when I get to posting that thread on the engine house.

I started a 1 1/2" shay by purchasing the castings for the engine and trucks from some guy out West. I had planned on building a four truck Shay.












Still have them. There up for grabs at the right price.

Silver soldering isn't that hard either. I've done some silver soldering using a butane torch.


I also can post a thread on how I build my resistance soldering rig. I took it of on forum because there were a couple of net nannies that didn't like how I built it. Let me know if it's ok to post that sometime in the future.


I really got to like the solder paste. I never realized it had a use by date on it. Works great for those jobs you need three hands to solder.

Bernd

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 Posted: 14 Mar 2023 07:36 pm
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Reg H
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A 1-1/2" Shay would definitely be an ambitious project.  My initial reaction on your photos was rather covetous.   But no.  I am fixed on my 3/4" Kozo Hiroaka Shay.  Not to mention not having the resources to make a serious offer.

I think an article on building your resistance soldering rig would be quite welcome. You could post it in either the Other Topics section or the scratch building section.  That would be entirely appropriate. 

Another project I am working on is a Stuart Models 10V vertical mill engine.  I plan to post a series in the Other Topics section for those that might be interested.  I have been accused of being such a steam fan that I might be caught taking photos of my wife's clothes iron.

Reg



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 Posted: 14 Mar 2023 09:31 pm
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Bernd
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Reg H wrote: A 1-1/2" Shay would definitely be an ambitious project.  My initial reaction on your photos was rather covetous.   But no.  I am fixed on my 3/4" Kozo Hiroaka Shay.  Not to mention not having the resources to make a serious offer.

I think an article on building your resistance soldering rig would be quite welcome. You could post it in either the Other Topics section or the scratch building section.  That would be entirely appropriate. 

Another project I am working on is a Stuart Models 10V vertical mill engine.  I plan to post a series in the Other Topics section for those that might be interested.  I have been accused of being such a steam fan that I might be caught taking photos of my wife's clothes iron.

Reg


Yes it was ambitious project that died quite fast. I have all three Kozo books plus the A3 Pennsy 0-4-0 switcher engine. He's an amazing modeler. I just meant that the castings can be had if another steam modeler reads the thread. 

I did have it written up at one time here on Freerails, but I couldn't find it.

I've also toyed around with stationary steam engines. My Dad got heavily involved with steam engines as he got older. He complained the flying model airplanes was to fast of a hobby to enjoy. I gave him several articles out of Live Steam at the time I had a subscription to the magazine.

Bernd

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 Posted: 14 Mar 2023 09:51 pm
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Bernd
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Continuing on with the build.


I started with the center rib to solder the roof on. A bit of flux. Same procedure as when I soldered the middle rib on. I scribed some lines near the end of the roof to help center the roof front to back.




Squeeze hard with the tweezers and apply some current to heat the join.




Then it's the ends of the roof. I always start at the middle so the tubing won't unsolder from the roof ribs. If they do, nothing will move.




Note the ends of the rods are turning a dull red.




Release the foot pedal while still squeezing the tweezers to let the join cool so nothing moves.





Next the roof gets placed on the shell and the first bend is made to curve the edge of the roof down. The chassis has been removed so it doesn't get damaged. It takes quite a bit of pressure to start the bend. The shell flew out of my hands a couple of times.





A quick check shows it's starting to bend. Not to detectable in the picture.







Next I worked the side of the roof with a piece of dowel until I was satisfied with the radius of the bend.




The left side of the roof overhang is a bit longer than the right. A simple file job will take care of that till the sides are even.




And there you have them, two boxcabs.




Next up will be the decision on whether they will be both electric, diesel or one of each. In the meantime, I need to mill out a sliding door detail from .005" or maybe .010" thick stock. That's what the second window opening is for. Also going to try an attempt to add some rivet detail.
Well, we already know the outcome of what kind of power they will have from the opening pictures.
So until next time.

Bernd

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 Posted: 14 Mar 2023 11:35 pm
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slateworks
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Looks like the tweezers left actual dents as opposed to just burn marks in the roof at the beam positions. Does that mean your tweezer electrodes are something other than carbon which I would not have thought could take that much pressure?


Also, would annealing the roof before soldering have helped in the edge bending process?



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 Posted: 15 Mar 2023 01:33 am
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Bernd
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slateworks wrote: Looks like the tweezers left actual dents as opposed to just burn marks in the roof at the beam positions. Does that mean your tweezer electrodes are something other than carbon which I would not have thought could take that much pressure?


Also, would annealing the roof before soldering have helped in the edge bending process?



Doug,
That dents came form the annealing of that small section. It got hot enough to anneal the hard brass. I'm sure you saw that the tips of the tweezers was getting a dull red. Those rods are 1/8" diameter stainless steel. I've made several different probes for the resistance rig. As I post my projects you'll see many different techniques I do with this unit.


More will be revealed in the postings on this project. This was the first set of roofs I made.

Bernd

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