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corv8
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... have to start looong ago... once bought a brass Suydam Butte Anaconda & Pacific boxcab from the original owner. He had builta Hegge type pantograph for her, added gears to the dummy truck and lettered her for the Dayton, Duluth & Western. This was the first run. later ones had both trucks powered from the factory. My attitude with such models is to leave them as they are, I consider such items a part of model RR history.
Then another one came my way ... lettered Hudson Valley RR. Same story.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/55122337@N06/38399866201/in/album-72157679711193741/
next I found an similar but different dummy loco - found out that she was done by Ken Kidder and was older than the Suydam models, As luck had it, I found an orphan drive for her and built a complete, running loco.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/55122337@N06/38577548461/in/album-72157679711193741/
... a few days ago, a shipment from the USA arrived - containing another damaged loco, a drive without sideframes, and an mutilated shell painted Pacific Electric.
Seems by utilizing the dummy Kidder trucks and with a lot of tinkering I may get two complete locomotives. Maybe I should paint at least ONE of them for the BA&P ...!
trucks ar right below are the dummy Kidder trucks which will provide sideframes for the red boxcab.
Last edited on 16 Mar 2023 09:01 pm by corv8
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slateworks
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Treasure trove Gerold!
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Doug
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2foot6
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Looks like you have your next project Gerold.  Looking forward to your progress.....Peter
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corv8
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2foot6 wrote: Looks like you have your next project Gerold. Looking forward to your progress.....Peter
as usual, there were already some surprises.... one floor broken (how can somebody break a brass floor ?? - have soldered it together... with a precious piece of 50 year old solder. with a high lead content, it is much better to work with than the new stuff.
- next surprise.... what in all the world happened to this end ? 
Last edited on 17 Mar 2023 09:47 pm by corv8
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slateworks
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Gerold, not unlike the front of my MMI K-27 that had taken a trip to the floor from the hands of a previous owner!
The subject of the next repair and renovation project to be started.
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corv8
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Doug,
I often wonder what those (brass) models had to endure. Most never got glazing, lights, not even couplers or paint - but they had to suffer all sorts of damage.
- I just spent the whole evening disassembling - well, unintentional, because of weak + brittle solder - to straighten and solder back together the bent unpowered truck. Last edited on 17 Mar 2023 11:51 pm by corv8
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Gerold
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2foot6
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A lot of brass locos tend to fall apart with the solder breaking down, I had some old locos suffering from the same problem. Easily fixed as you know by resoldering. As for glazing and couplers that seems to be a world wide problem but the brass detail was so good compared to the plastic models of fifty or more years ago..........Peter
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Kitbash0n30
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2foot6 wrote: A lot of brass locos tend to fall apart with the solder breaking down, I had some old locos suffering from the same problem. Huh, didn't know that was a thing.
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See y'all later, Forrest.
Screw the rivets, I'm building for atmosphere
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corv8
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2foot6 wrote: A lot of brass locos tend to fall apart with the solder breaking down, I had some old locos suffering from the same problem. Easily fixed as you know by resoldering.
Peter, Although I have been a metalworker all my life, soldering is not one of my best skills.... and, I understand those models were built with some fixtures holding serveral parts in the right position , those parts were new + clean , and then a complete subassembly was heated and joined in one work step.
Now, often this parts are heavily corroded, difficult to clean in remote corners, and most annoying ( as yesterday evening .....) one heavy casting has numerous small parts attached... you solder one to it and two other fall down o0n the other side. Even with a step by step procedure often this goes wrong. What I learned, it helps to apply a lot of heat quickly. Either a BIG soldering iron, a flame or alternatively (I am not yet ready) a resistance soldering set.
Anyway, real men need challenges. Last edited on 18 Mar 2023 07:57 am by corv8
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2foot6
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I have built a number of brass , brass/white metal locos over the years as well as repairing the same for other modellers. I found that a quick application of heat and tinned metal surfaces makes it easier . With white metal a temperature controlled soldering iron is a preferred option. I have found the solder breaks down with age and depending on the repair it's a rebuild or just a small re-soldering with fresh solder. In my past life as a Technical Officer with a communications business it was necessary to resolder cable terminations on racks of equipment when they were around the forty years of age , the breaking down soldered joints caused noise on comms lines. I'm not a metal expert but the solder appears to crystalize over time. For a lot of us, modelling is a learning curve, sometimes very steep.  ....PeterLast edited on 18 Mar 2023 08:50 am by 2foot6
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Kitbash0n30
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2foot6 wrote: For a lot of us, modelling is a learning curve, sometimes very steep. ....Peter That has happened a few times!
And then on an insomnia-fed tangent here at 04:36 am, I wonder if there has ever been someone who models 2ft 6in gauge and they are 6ft 2in tall and sometimes have a brain fog moment and give their gauge instead of their height ...In the metric world that would be a non issue.
Last edited on 18 Mar 2023 09:38 am by Kitbash0n30
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See y'all later, Forrest.
Screw the rivets, I'm building for atmosphere
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2foot6
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Gerold wrote ......next surprise.... what in all the world happened to this end ?
Gerold, from my past life again, we used to take electrolysis into account for wear and tear into design. It looks like it maybe the issue in this case, is the end thinner or softer than the other end or sides?................Peter.Last edited on 19 Mar 2023 08:35 am by 2foot6
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corv8
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2foot6 wrote: Gerold wrote ......next surprise.... what in all the world happened to this end ?
Gerold, from my past life again, we used to take electrolysis into account for wear and tear into design. It looks like it maybe the issue in this case, is the end thinner or softer than the other end or sides?................Peter.
no, I am afraid it was simply dropped or abused in some cruel way. The end has been soldered to the body 2 millimetrs to far out with plenty of solder; so the roof that normally hangs over noticeably is flush with the end now. Will desolder the end and attach it properly - oh what fun!
Todays task - will try to find a way to attach the sideframes of the leftover Ken Kidder dummy trucks to the (otherwise complete) drive of the second, red boxcab. They have the correct wheelbase but construction / way of attachment is completely different.
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